Sounds good Markus. Did you have to move your wheelwell any? Anyone know the size of the EDF units in this bird? 64 or 65mm maybe? I have a set of E-flite 400 size DF motors I'm thinking of trying as well. Thoughts?

I have one of these beauties on order from Nitroplanes and hope to receive it later this week. It's an ARF with pre-installed retracts and I can't wait to get it flying.

A quick question for those of you with flaps - what commonly available servos are a good fit for the pre-cut wells?

Are there any other key out-of-the-box fixes or mods that are recommended prior to the maiden?

Thanks for any and all feedback!

I just used 9g servos like hs-55, you will need a servo reverser so both servos will work the same way......Zagi:

Originally Posted by ZAGI CRAZEE

I just used 9g servos like hs-55, you will need a servo reverser so both servos will work the same way......Zagi:

Ordered - thanks! There's hope yet that it will make it to the field next weekend.

Here is a custom paint and custom decal job on the Dyanm Trubo Jet. This plane is smooth as silk flying and tops out a 79 mph with the stock motors and a Sky lipo 3300mAh 3 cell battery.

Originally Posted by sjw985

I have one of these beauties on order from Nitroplanes and hope to receive it later this week. It's an ARF with pre-installed retracts and I can't wait to get it flying.

A quick question for those of you with flaps - what commonly available servos are a good fit for the pre-cut wells?

Are there any other key out-of-the-box fixes or mods that are recommended prior to the maiden?

Thanks for any and all feedback!

The elevator push rods are both connected to one side of the serve arm but are in two different holes which causes differential movement. I cut off one of the z-bends and bent the rod over to meet the other rod, wrapped with copper wire for about 3/4 of an inch and then soldered them together to eliminate the natural roll that differential throw would cause. Also changed both elevator control horns because the Dynam horns are prone to snapping off where the e-z connector is attached to the horn.....replaced with Dubro nylon horns. Added 1/16" carbon fiber rod from aileron servos out to wing tip to reduce flex in wing tips. Also added 3/8" x 1/16" carbon fiber (on edge) from landing gear light to the other landing gear light (see my photo of navigational lights in previous post). The slot I made with exacto knife, super glued and then filled slot with hot melt glue. I flew the plane without the spar and noticed stress marks on both wings just outside of the fuselage so decided to add this spar....sure does stiffen the wing and should eliminate any more stress marks. This is a sweet flying plane but make sure you install the flaps. I used 2 slow speed flap servos (FMS) from Pw-Rc.com but you have to either purchase a servo reverser or do as I do and swap servo motor wires and swap the two outer wires on the pot.

I had both my Turbojet and camera at the field the other day and shot some video while a friend took the jet for a spin. The nose gear didn't make it all the way up on this flight so please overlook the bump under the nose.

At the Field Dynam Turbojet.mp4 (3 min 21 sec)

Originally Posted by jim12

I had both my Turbojet and camera at the field the other day and shot some video while a friend took the jet for a spin. The nose gear didn't make it all the way up on this flight so please overlook the bump under the nose.

http://youtu.be/WtokPtpl67g

SWEEEET !!!

May I ask what size battery you're using with yours?

I've been using a 3S-3300 with mine for longer flight times (10 min +/- ) but I had a tough time adjusting the battery position to get the right CG. And I've never had such a smooth "greaser" landing like yours in the video.

Do you happen to know the exact flying CG you're using now?

(BTW, I'd never have noticed the nose gear "bump" if you hadn't mentioned it... )

Regards,
-- Rod

RRobbins

I use the CG as listed in the instructions. I'm using a 2650 mAh 3 cell. The larger battery and the gear drove the nose weight up. What I did to get it back was to remove the foam stop at the rear of the battery tray allowing the battery to slide further back into the fuselage. I used a coat hanger wire and bent it to form a squared off "U" with tabs that pushed into the foam and used epoxy to hold it down.

This provides a backstop that is further back allowing the battery to move back without flying all the way to the rear. That allowed the CG to come in right where described.

Originally Posted by jim12

RRobbins

I use the CG as listed in the instructions. I'm using a 2650 mAh 3 cell. The larger battery and the gear drove the nose weight up. What I did to get it back was to remove the foam stop at the rear of the battery tray allowing the battery to slide further back into the fuselage. I used a coat hanger wire and bent it to form a squared off "U" with tabs that pushed into the foam and used epoxy to hold it down.

This provides a backstop that is further back allowing the battery to move back without flying all the way to the rear. That allowed the CG to come in righ.t where described.

Thanks for the info. I did a similar thing with mine to get the CG optimized, although a 3300 was probably pushing the envelope...

My TJ is currently retired. I stalled it on landing about a month ago and caved in the nose pretty bad. I had already replaced the fuselage once and it was a tedious job. I think I'm going to wait for Nitroplanes to get the "new, improved" TJ with retracts back in stock and reorder. It'll probably take less time to build the whole ARF than to replace the fuselage on an old one.

Anyway, good luck with yours. Flies great!

Regards,
-- Rod

Originally Posted by rrobbins

Thanks for the info. I did a similar thing with mine to get the CG optimized, although a 3300 was probably pushing the envelope...

My TJ is currently retired. I stalled it on landing about a month ago and caved in the nose pretty bad. I had already replaced the fuselage once and it was a tedious job. I think I'm going to wait for Nitroplanes to get the "new, improved" TJ with retracts back in stock and reorder. It'll probably take less time to build the whole ARF than to replace the fuselage on an old one.

Anyway, good luck with yours. Flies great!

Regards,
-- Rod

NitroPlanes has it in stock.....they just hide it because they are pushing the first version. Here is the link for the New version with retracts for 129 bucks. http://www.nitroplanes.com/60a-dy893...-eretract.html

I've been flying mine for a couple of weeks now and I really like it. It's my first EDF but it was a very easy transition for me (other planes are PZ T-28, P-47 w Flaps & retracts, FMS 1400mm Zero). I just put flaps in last night and while they definitely aren't required, they sure do make the landings look nice!

I also thought I'd share a tip regarding the differential elevator movement on the stock setup. Rather than solder the push rods (a good idea, but my soldering skills are cr*p), I just attached the outer pushrod to the second hole down on the control horn. The inner rod stayed on the outermost pushrod hole. Voila - symmetrical movement!

It's also perfectly balanced with a GensAce 3S 2200 mAH battery.

Of course, I have a few complaints about the plane as well. First, both main struts came with the flat spots ground at angles that weren't square, so the mains were at odd angles and the plane crabbed badly when taxiing on the ground. That's lousy QC in my opinion and could have easily been avoided by using a proper jig. As a quick fix, I basically had to take out the gear, loosen the set screw, and push the strut in just enough to be off the flat spot before re-securing. No issues or slippage after 5 flights and the wheels still have clearance in the wells. Also, for some reason one of the mains occasionally refuses to extend. It seems intermittent and I haven't figured it out yet. It's probably related to the cheap Orange RX I'm using.

But in the air, she's a beaut and she has gotten lots of positive comments at the field. For the price I highly recommend this plane.

Out of curiosity, has anyone tried flying the stock fans and ESCs with a 4S?

Also has anyone else had gear issues (deployment and/or bad flatspot grind) on the stock Nitroplanes ARF w/ preinstalled retracts? I'm debating whether it's worth asking for replacements, or if these are just known "undocumented features" of the cheap hardware.

About the retract intermittently working, I had to put a drop of Marval Mystery oil on the worm gear.... must have been a small piece of dirt not allowing the retract to fully retract the last turn so it would reset. These retracts have small dip switches that the worm gear carrier has to hit in order for them to work in the opposite direction the next time voltage is applied. Just keep them clean is the best info I can give you. My mains were straight but I have had others that were not ground in the right place and had to regrind them. I fly my Turbo Jet with 3 cell 3300mAh sky lipos but a friend of mine just flew his yesterday on 4 cell. He never went above 1/2 throttle though and the battery was hot when he landed. I am waiting for him to fly it the entire flight on 4 cell before I decide if the ESC and motors can actually handle it..... I was waiting to see con trails yesterday.

Just got my "Turbo Jet" today! Took the family out to SN Hobbies to pick 1 up after comparing it w/ the FMS F-16 + the FMS Mirage 4000. I was going 2 get the Mirage, but after seeing the Quality looking e-tracts in the turbo, I couldn't resist it. Hope they work as great as they look! One of my fan housings has a major groove in it, but I'm hoping I can get the fans centered. Also picked up an LED Nav. light set and I have a couple servo's lying around for the flaps, so looking forward to getting this one together. Glad 2 see some fellow Canucks on this thread as well. Cheers!

I've flown my jet yesterday and today.
Yesterday was little scary with 25mph winds.
Only issue I had was with the retracts.
They didn't retract on last flight and had to be belly land.
I tried them later and they work sometimes.

Does anybody knows how to make them work every time?
Are they better running on 6V instead of 5?

Rob