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Old Nov 12, 2012, 05:44 PM
I tell her RC is cheap !
carguy1994ca's Avatar
Quebec, Canada
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BTW, do you guys break his left arm for smooth steering?
Watch out for he doesn't fight back !
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 03:29 AM
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dva78.
I think that you may have a problem with your basic Summit, I run NMHI 3000 mA and 5000 mA batteries and with the TS fully loaded, running at constant high speed, I get 35/40 mins and 55/60 mins, crawling you can add 15 mins to these times. I am using the standard Titan motor, but the power is only driving the motor and rc receiver.
Was it a new Summit? If so, talk to Traxxas. If not then maybe something was on the way out when you bought it.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by carguy1994ca View Post
Watch out for he doesn't fight back !
I cut just below the shoulder and halfway up the forearm, I then rolled material and taped between the remaining bits, thus the arm is now totally flexible and can't be seen once inside his suit.
And, by the way, the action man did not complain, mind you it would have been difficult when I had already chopped off his head, LoL.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 04:18 AM
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I bought it secondhand, but from an official dealer. Batteries are not under warranty and I think and got 4 really bad ones in the deal. Motor is under warranty but wasn't in stock, hopefully by the end of this week. Is there anything in the drivetrain I should check?
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 06:57 AM
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No, not that I can think of, but to run the standard batteries out in 5 minutes and then burn the motor out using lipos, just makes me think that either the motor was faulty or the esc has a problem. Try the original batteries out when you get the replacement motor before you run with the lipos, as it may save you burning out another motor. If you still only get 5 minutes, then talk to the dealer, that is not right, something must be shorting out.
I'll be interested to hear how it goes.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 10:16 AM
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You could check the slipper clutch if it is too tight but it should not burn out the motor that easely i think.

Btw, anyone tried changing the gears for higher top-speed ?
i read that changing to 17T Pinion and 65T Spur upped the top speed from 18Mph to 26Mph.. But i guess with the extra weight of the tonka it would be a bad idea and burning out the motor would be likely ?
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:20 PM
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Not only that, but the videos look as if you are doing twice the speed.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:21 PM
I tell her RC is cheap !
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Quebec, Canada
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There could be something making too much friction in the drive train, like a seized bearing or need for lubrication. Also, the motor could have had its pinion too tight on the spur gear. I'd check the drive train without the motor on it, turning by hand to see if something is binding. I'd also remove the drive train covers to inspect if water and rust is in there.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 02:51 PM
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[QUOTE=carguy1994ca;23240119]Pretty cool, like the start up. I'd be curious to hear it from outside the cockpit, to hear what bystander will hear when you drive around them.

I took the RockApe for a run on the beach today, I turned the sound module volume up so that it would mask the motor noise, and then drove it past several times and the module sound was no louder than the electric motor and tyre noise to passers by, yet the module sound, on the gopro recording, was loud enough to mask the TS motor.
I have now rigged the sound module so that I can switch it on and off remotely, and it sounds really good on the in-car video, flick a switch and the starter runs and then the engine fires up.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Awesome! I've thought long and hard about the sound machines.. I've spent years modding sounds in video games, custom engine sounds, rpm changes (low rpm is a different sound file that pitches up, but fades out as the higher rpm metally/machiney sound fades in pitching up) and all kinds of auxillary things and always thought it would be cool.

Having it remotely on and off is awesome, as the startup and shutdown sounds are sweet!
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by krallopian View Post
Awesome! I've thought long and hard about the sound machines.. I've spent years modding sounds in video games, custom engine sounds, rpm changes (low rpm is a different sound file that pitches up, but fades out as the higher rpm metally/machiney sound fades in pitching up) and all kinds of auxillary things and always thought it would be cool.

Having it remotely on and off is awesome, as the startup and shutdown sounds are sweet!
Not to get off topic, what games do you work on? I thought of FMOD when I heard that motor thing as I work in game sound too. Starting a new project in Wwise.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 04:00 PM
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Slipper clutch seamed really tight. Couldn't move the discs apart it with a flat screwdriver, so I loosened it up a bit. Not sure what the right setting is, but now I know where to change it. Took off the the whole clutchassembly, bearing and gear and it seemed all ok.
How to I inspect the drivetrain without taking it all apart? Or should I?
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 04:46 PM
I tell her RC is cheap !
carguy1994ca's Avatar
Quebec, Canada
Joined Sep 2006
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I didn't do it on mine, but if you flip the chassis over, there are covers you can remove. May need to remove other things. Can you push it around without the motor and see if it looks like too much work and something is binding ? Again, didn't try it and don't know if the 4WD will make this possible. Maybe you'll need to disconect the front from the rear. I'd try to see if there is bind so it prevents burning another motor.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 04:03 AM
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If you put the car on a on a 7"x7"x7" block ( something that is advisable when not using the car to help the suspension and stop flat spots on the tyres, especially with the weight of a fully loaded TS) then, with diffs unlocked, turn one front wheel by hand and the other wheel should turn effortlessly in the other direction, do the same with the rear wheel. Then do the same with the diff locks turned on, both front wheels will turn the same way, but only about a quarter of a turn due to the 4 wheel drive, do the same test on the rear. You can then run the motor very slowly, if there is any binding it will show up, as one wheel will stop quicker than the others. Sorry I forgot you don't have a motor at the moment.
I now do this check when ever I get back from driving in long grass, as I once found it binding and it turned out that grass had wound itself around the axle where the wheel is attached.
I am sorry if I am preaching to the converted, but I thought that it was worth mentioning.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 04:23 AM
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Thanks, I'll give it a try tonight!
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