As some of you know, I recently shipped out the first batch of 9x solderless Programmer boards with EL backlight. Unfortunately, in my excitement to get them out, the first 11 were shipped without being 100% complete. As it stands, there is no power hookup!

Thankfully, there is the relatively simple solution.

Once the installation is completed, there needs to be a power connection from the radio to the add-on board. This can be done in one of two ways.

The first way is *NOT* solderless, but some might find it simpler so I'll mention it. On the add-on board are two wire holes marked "Power". Solder a wire into hole #1 and solder or wire-tap the other end to any +5v source on the radio.

The second way involves two wire taps (so it is solderless). All you need are the taps, a short piece of wire, and a pair of pliers. One end of the wire gets tapped to the +5v line of the USB cable and the other end is taped to any +5v source on the radio. Specificaly, I recommend the black wire from the left gimble assembly. It is close to the area in question and it is easily accessible.

So in the picture below, you can see two of the 3M Scotchlock wire taps with a violet wire tapping into the yellow* wire from the USB connector and the black wire from the left gimble.

(*note that it is only yellow in this example - random colors were used for the prototypes! Be sure you are tapping into the "bottom" wire as shown)

If you are unfamiliar with these types of wire taps, I've also included a small picture to help. They are easy to use and are gel-filled to prevent corrosion. They are very high quality and result in a very reliable connection so long as the wires are inserted completely. The wire you are adding to the circuit (in the picture, the violet wire) needs to be inserted into the hole all the way until it stops. The wire you are tapping (in the picture, the yellow and black wires) presses in sideways into the slow on the side of the tap. It won't go in easily! It is a tight fit and you may need to work it in with your thumbnail. The tap is clear so you can see if the wires are in all the way or not.

The first people who I've already shipped to (order numbers 2327 to 2337 - I've send you each an email): Please tell me if you want me to send you a short piece of wire and a couple of taps and I'll get it right out. Again, I'm sorry for the small screw up.

All others (orders 2338+) will have it included in their kit.

PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF SOMETHING IS NOT CLEAR!

- Steven

Steven,
Rcvd board etc okay,but cannot get 5v for backlight.No out put on plug.USB output gives me 4.98v so the joint from gimble is okay.Any suggestions?

When you say, "no out put on plug" what do you mean?

If you're using a voltmeter set to DC to try to measure the EL panel header pins... it won't work. EL panels operate on AC, not DC. So if you measure on the EL panel pins, you need to have your meter set to AC. Also, depending on your meter, you may see the number jump around a bunch - that's normal.

Its 5v DC in (or really anywhere from 1.8v to 5.5v) and between 20v and 70v AC (per side) out.

Also, there's no output to the plug anyway until the Firmware is programmed to turn it on. Have you done that part yet? Actually turned it on?

- Steven

Steven,
Quick reply Tks.No have not programmed as yet have not got arround to finding out how. I understand now why no backlight,everything else okay PC recognises the USB, just got to find out where to go next.

OK, no problem... here's the general overview:

1. Do the physical connection (as shown above, which you've already done.)
2. Flash er9x firmware (for details on this step, see the main 9x firmware page. It can still be confusing so ask specific questions here and I'll answer)
3. In the radio's new menus, you have to tell it when to turn it on. The er9x firmware is still in development so this may change. As of right now, you access it like this:
   • Press and hold left (+) button to enter SETUP menu.
   • Scroll down to "Light SW"
   • Use +/- keys to scroll through the options. Tell you the truth, I'm not even sure what each option does "OFF" is self explanatory. "ON" means the light is always on whenever there's power. Most of the others relate to a specific switch. For example, I use "RUD" so I turn the light on by flipping the short toggle on the top/left of the radio marked "RUD D/R". The ones that are prefixed with a ! mean "off". For example, if I chose !RUD then the light would be on when the switch is in its standard position.

I hope that helps. Let me know though if you need any help at all. I'm not very good at documenting things

- Steven

Hi. Do you still have any kits for sale??. If so how do I go about getting one..

Thanks..
Mike..

Not the prototype batch, no... they're all gone. 2nd round is on its way, but it'll still be several weeks. Likely about 4 weeks from now, if things stay on track. 5 with (50/50 chance) delays, 3 if everything goes smooth.

- Steven

Ok Steven. but can you please let me know when you have them??

Mike

Mike, you should probably edit your post and remove your email address before you get bots picking it up and spamming you to death! (I've read you should never post your email in a public forum).

Its difficult for me to track the 'let me know' requests, but I'll try. If you follow this thread though, I'll certainly update it.

- Steven

Thanks Steven. It's done..

Mike..

Ok, subscribed, but I tried on the other link and its not open to reply.?

Originally Posted by s_mack

Not the prototype batch, no... they're all gone. 2nd round is on its way, but it'll still be several weeks. Likely about 4 weeks from now, if things stay on track. 5 with (50/50 chance) delays, 3 if everything goes smooth.

- Steven

It looks like we're ahead of schedule! That never happens! Its been 2 weeks since that post, and I've received almost all the parts. I've already been busy with initial testing of the Rev 2 boards. For the most part, it has passed with flying colors! yay!

The programmer portion remains the same, except that the power issue has been corrected, of course. A "fix" is no longer necessary.

The EL backlight portion has some nice improvements. First off, it now employs a dual power source setup. The Rev 1 circuit drew all its power from the 9x's Pin 17, which resulted in 80mA of current going through a pin that's only allowed 40mA (oops). With Rev 2, the whole circuit now draws only 25 to 35mA, and less than 2mA from pin 17! All the while without sacrificing any brightness and with a whopping reduction in noise from "quiet" to "barely noticeable".

However, to achieve these benefits, I needed to use a 300kOhm resistor where I was previously using a 1MOhm. No big deal, but I only had a couple here so now I have to wait until Tuesday or Wednesday to get more. So a small delay because of that.

Even accounting for that, I should be able to start shipping by late next week!

- Steven

Wheelspinner - I fixed the other page. Its now "open". Forgive me if I can't keep up with updates... I'm busy soldering!!!

Forgiven, Just keep soldering.... looks like when erazz gets done de bugging I will need that board soon.!

Ty.

Pat.

Originally Posted by s_mack

It looks like we're ahead of schedule! That never happens! Its been 2 weeks since that post, and I've received almost all the parts. I've already been busy with initial testing of the Rev 2 boards. For the most part, it has passed with flying colors! yay!

The programmer portion remains the same, except that the power issue has been corrected, of course. A "fix" is no longer necessary.

The EL backlight portion has some nice improvements. First off, it now employs a dual power source setup. The Rev 1 circuit drew all its power from the 9x's Pin 17, which resulted in 80mA of current going through a pin that's only allowed 40mA (oops). With Rev 2, the whole circuit now draws only 25 to 35mA, and less than 2mA from pin 17! All the while without sacrificing any brightness and with a whopping reduction in noise from "quiet" to "barely noticeable".

However, to achieve these benefits, I needed to use a 300kOhm resistor where I was previously using a 1MOhm. No big deal, but I only had a couple here so now I have to wait until Tuesday or Wednesday to get more. So a small delay because of that.

Even accounting for that, I should be able to start shipping by late next week!

- Steven

Wheelspinner - I fixed the other page. Its now "open". Forgive me if I can't keep up with updates... I'm busy soldering!!!

That's great Steven, since i've already got my order in (paid for it) at SmartieParts eh??..

Mike..

Steven, when you ship my board. I would like the blue EL Backlight..

Mike..