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Old Dec 12, 2010, 01:45 PM
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Hey, Geek. Until Richard returns; yes, cut a round "washer" from the scrap plastic about an inch (25mm) in diameter, hole in middle, cord through that, through foam, out of through the slot in the bottom half of the ball. As far as holding the camera in position, careful cutting and trial and fit will create a snug fit of the opening and sides of the camera.

I'll look for the picture in the post that shows the disc.

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Old Dec 12, 2010, 02:05 PM
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MN
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OK got the inner foam disc made and fitted, made a back plate out of some scraps of carbon fiber +1. However when trying to test fit my camera it pushes the ball out of shape and sits at a severe angle, not flat as I've seen in the pictures. Any ideas to help me get this figured out as well.
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Old Dec 12, 2010, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geekmedic View Post
OK got the inner foam disc made and fitted, made a back plate out of some scraps of carbon fiber +1. However when trying to test fit my camera it pushes the ball out of shape and sits at a severe angle, not flat as I've seen in the pictures. Any ideas to help me get this figured out as well.
Hey, Geek. Don't know what might be causing your fit issue other than the opening for your camera is still a bit too tight. The "outline" that's on the ball is a serving suggestion and a place to start the fitting process. If you look a the pictures of the ones that I've built, you can see the opening is a fraction wider than the outline and I've even notched a bit where the button might interfere with the assembly. Note there is a notch top and bottom where you might want to flip the camera as to whether it's on top or under your AP plane. Also, my camera pushes over the little ferule on inserting, that helps with the holding as well. Here's a picture,



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Old Dec 12, 2010, 08:39 PM
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Southern Oregon
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Camera ball turret build instrcutions...

Ok…

Here is the rest of the build instructions for the ball turret… Can’t believe I forgot to continue when I posted the first installation for trimming the ball (POST # 54) I created this so long ago, I’m just going to follow and write according to the photos I took. (I take extensive notes as I’m building and then take even more photos so I don’t miss anything I can’t come back to take a photo of… then I sort them out into posts and divide them up… I then sort the photos and write according to the photos… This is much better done fresh after the build… this has been a while for me which is why I’m just going to trust my photos and write the narrative instructions… if you have ANY questions AFTER I’ve completed posting these chapters (There’s four chapters (including this one), to complete the build for the camera ball

This continues where post # 54 left off…

This pertains to prepping the retaining elastic and the support plate… The support or backing plate for the elastic band is cur from a scrap piece of plastic. Either the corner of the ball trim scrap or the center of the base where the ball is inserted..

The diameter of the plastic is “about” ¾” in diameter (no less than ½”, no more than 1”). This gets cut, sanded and a 1/16” to 3/32” hole drilled in the center.

In your kit is a short section of plastic tubing. Use an Xacto blade to score a line so that you can snap off a 1/8” length. Lace the elastic through it and use thick CA to glue it to one end. Allow about 1/32” of elastic to protrude from the end. Use a liberal amount of glue to make sure the elastic is saturated and securely glued to the plastic tube. (NOTE: !!! The photos shows the elastic and the tube, but the tube in the photo is not trimmed and it is not where it is supposed to be glued...

I'll be right back with the next post which should show the correct position, or maybe the post after that... I'll just try and hurry and get these out... don't do anything until I complete posting these instructions...
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Old Dec 12, 2010, 08:51 PM
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Southern Oregon
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Opening up the camera ball slot and camera receiver hole:

I normally use my Foredom power tool to open up my camera ball openings, but here I show how to do it with a jewelers saw… you could also use an Xacto saw blade.

Note: There are two different camera ball halves… one has slot molded into it, the other has the shape for the camera cross section molded into it… These molded in lines are what you will follow to create the openings…

Follow the photos as guides to open these up. After cutting, you can use an Xacto blade to complete the cuts and/or glue sandpaper onto pieces of Popsicle stick or use small files to complete the creation of the openings…

NOTE: DO NOT MAKE THE CAMERA OPENING TOO LARGE! WAIT UNTIL YOU HAVE ASSEMBLED THE BALL AND THEN FIT THE CAMERA TO THE BALL!!!!

The last photo shows the camera opening in it’s rough state… leave it like this for now!
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Old Dec 12, 2010, 09:06 PM
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Southern Oregon
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Ball plate, elastic tension cord and final assembly:

Use the pattern supplied with your kit to cut a round disc from the foam sheet in your EyePod kit.

Find the center and glue the plastic backing plate you created in the previous post using foam safe, gap-filling CA.


Photo #3 shows the short length of plastic tube glued to the elastic retainer cord.

Per photo #4, fit and glue the foam disc to the ball half shell with the slot (not the camera opening), with the plastic backing plate OUTSIDE the ball half per the photo. If you do not glue it like this, your elastic cord will rip out of the foam sheet.

Make sure to sand the inside of the ball shell where the foam will be glued! This will helps create a more structurally sound bond!

Note that the foam sheet is glued in only half way! The plastic ball halves are fitted end to end and use the edge of the foam disc to align themselves flush.

When gluing the foam disc to the ball shell, APPLY THE GLUE TO THE INSIDE OF THE SHELL!!! NOT THE FOAM! This will keep the remaining exposed foam free of glue so that the second ball half will adhere securely. Once glued in place. Apply some more glue through the slot to the inside corner where the plastic ball shell touches the foam sheet. Let a bead of glue drip around the edge as you slowly rotate the ball to allow the bead of glue to drip along the edge.


Next, feed the elastic and plastic tube assembly through the hole in the center of your backing plate and feed it through the slot.

Next, sand the inside of the second ball shell (the one with the camera opening) and fit it to the foam sheet you just glued to the first camera ball half.

NOTE: In the last photo you will see that there are two short lines molded into the ball shells… these lines must line up in order to provide the correct movement of the completed camera ball turret.

Once glued in place, run an other bead of thick, foam safe CA along the inside corner where the foam disc meets the plastic shell… Spray a little foam safe kicker and let it cure…

Make sure you do not get any glue on the elastic retainer cord!
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Old Dec 12, 2010, 09:18 PM
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Southern Oregon
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Fitting the camera to the camera ball:

DO NOT FIT THE CAMERA UNTIL IT IS ATTACHED TO THE BASE!

Once the camera ball turret is fitted and mounted to the EyePod base you are using, SLOWLY fit the camera into the ball opening… sand a little at a time. The fit is created by the top and bottom of the camera opening grabbing onto the rubber texture of the camera as well as binding it against the small plastic tube wrapped around the elastic retaining cord.

In the photos you will se a slight widening of the ball that opens the receiving opening up on one corner. This is opened up to insure that the ball shell does not interfere with your buttons on the camera.

Create them just enough so they don’t press your buttons when you insert the camera into the ball… In the last photo you will see two of the Standard EyePods with two of these button openings… This is so when you insert the camera inverted (under a wing or fuselage), the location of the camera buttons will be accommodated by the second opening…

Let me know if this makes sense…

At this point, the build for the camera turret ball is complete with the exception of installing it into your EyePod camera mount base…

Again, sorry for the mistake in not posting these right after the first camera ball instruction post.

Ok… time for dinner.

Thanks!

Richard
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Old Dec 12, 2010, 09:22 PM
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Bullhead City, Arizona
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Richard,

As posted before, if the new HD version of the camera plays out well, you could get really busy! I am planning on posting a photo of my EyePod in the GAUI 330X thread as soon as I can get time to get it together.
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Old Dec 14, 2010, 12:43 PM
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Southern Oregon
Joined Apr 2004
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Quad copter mount and concept for other mounts

Here's a ROUGH sketch of what I had in mind for mounting the EyePod to the bottom of your quad.

The "stand-off's could be made of anything but here's a trick from the motion picture special effects world:

If you can make the stand offs out of soft foam rubber, making sure the EyePod does not touch anything (including the battery), but the foam, the foam rubber will isolate the EyePod from any vibrations... if you can also afford to carry a little more weight, back the EyePod with some lead (preferably a few tiny lead balls or thin sheet of lead),,, this will keep the EyePod and the camera stationary allowing the vibrations to pass and dissipate in the foam rubber... for extra security, pass some braided high strength fishing line from the quad frame, through the foam to the EyePod mount... make sure there is a lot of slack in the line... if it's tight, the vibrations will pass through the line... The line serves as extra security in case the foam rubber breaks... the smaller (diameter) the foam rubber, the better... the less the mass of the soft foam rubber stand offs, the more the vibrations will "get lost" in the foam and not be passed on to the camera mount...

Hope this helps... sorry for the very crude drawing...

Please keep us updated as to how your adaptation develops and the results!

Best,
Richard
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Old Dec 15, 2010, 10:09 PM
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Southern Oregon
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FYI:

All EyePods paid for as of last night were shipped today! (Including overseas orders)...

I have about 10 Aerodynamic and 10 Standard EyePods, boxed and ready to go.

Waiting for a bunch of new cameras and high speed memory cards to arrive from China! (any day?) I want to go out and shoot some more video... (Thinking about following some skier down hill at our local ski resort... at least as far as I can see! lol! Altitude is about 7,000ft but with the cold air, should work as long as I keep the camera and batteries warm...


Richard
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 08:18 AM
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netherlands
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finaly i had the time to test the pod out
i mounted it on the wing but the plane was to unstable so i putted on top of the fuselage
the only problem is it vibrate a lot and the cammera was pointing to the front but turned to the back ( funny to see the pilot come by )
i think i need to cut the pod wider open so that the cammera is much more in the ball


parkzone f4u corsair snowpatrol (4 min 57 sec)
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 08:27 AM
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USA, FL, Jacksonville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick39 View Post
finaly i had the time to test the pod out
i mounted it on the wing but the plane was to unstable so i putted on top of the fuselage
the only problem is it vibrate a lot and the cammera was pointing to the front but turned to the back ( funny to see the pilot come by )
i think i need to cut the pod wider open so that the cammera is much more in the ball


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhF1UZTj3JA

Hey, Patrick, what is that lens you have attached to the front of your camera?
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 09:22 AM
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netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawjr View Post
Hey, Patrick, what is that lens you have attached to the front of your camera?

it is a wide angle lens

this one:

http://cgi.ebay.nl/0-67X-Wide-Angle-...item3f052e8efb
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by patrick39 View Post
Man, that's what I've been looking for. Any issues with focus or attachment to the 808?

BTW, here's the US link http://cgi.ebay.com/0-67X-Wide-Angle...item3363535d0d

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Old Dec 20, 2010, 09:55 AM
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SENTRY 62's Avatar
Powder Springs, GA
Joined Sep 2010
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eBay fisheye lens on 808 cam :
Flying with Sentry (5 min 20 sec)


And yes there is a noticeable difference in still pics as well as video. I have some raw files that I used to test this with... and it makes a difference.

Sentry
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