|Nov 10, 2010, 11:20 AM|
Hye Tony, Just had to respond to this one laughing like crazy about your Cylon comparison! I never thought of that one (I'm a fan!)... I thought the aerodynamic version looked like "EVA" from the movie "Wall-E"... Tresa brought up (after she saw the shots of the different EyePods in all the different planes that it reminded her of the R-2 units from Star Wars... when they sit in the different ships, they have their dome tops sticking out...
|Nov 10, 2010, 12:16 PM|
|Nov 10, 2010, 12:24 PM|
Ok... You STILL HAVE TO DO THAT!!!
Tresa came up with the observation, I NEVER thought of someone actually painting and detailing theri EyePod to look like an R-2 installation! LOL!
PLEASE share that here when you're done (or during too!!
I'm already hearing the little chirps and whistles! LOLOL!
That will be so funny!
|Nov 10, 2010, 01:01 PM|
Thanks for sharing before, Richard. An inspiration to many I'm sure. I've sent you a note as well, look forward to hearing from you again - but no hurry, you've got orders to fill!
All the best, Don
|Nov 10, 2010, 06:48 PM|
Assembling your EyePod and "Tricks of the trade"
Ok.. finally! we get to see how this new device is assembled!
Before we begin actually putting the EyePod together we’re going to build a super simple trim tool that will make trimming the four plastic parts even simpler! No measuring, no scissors, no worrying about straight lines and usually no sanding! This is one of my special trademark "Tricks of the Trade"... ALL my plastic molded kit parts are trimmed like this which makes life super easy... The height of the trim tool is incorporated into the plastic molding tooling so that as it comes of the former, the flange is exactly the height of the trim tool used for that particular model.
Each of the plastic molded parts were designed around the height of the scoring blade when you follow the direction here. In this case, the trim height is 1/8" plus half the thickness of a #24 blade: (.012") (Yes, I take that small a measurement into account so that you don't have to!
To begin with you will need two pieces of 1/8” x3/4” x 1~1/2” hard balsa. You will also need a #24 or similar Xacto style blade. DO NOT USE THE NORMAL #11 Blade you usually use!
The #24 (or similar) is thicker, wider and will flex less that the #11. If you use the #11, I guarantee you, the blade will travel freely up and down as you score the plastic parts that you will render them unusable! (Note the difference in size between the #24 and the #11(mounted in the aluminum Xacto handle).
Geeze I like these little popcorn guys! Reminds me of Gary Larson's "Far Side" cartoon of "God making snakes"... God stands behind a work table with a pile of clay rolling rope-like shapes between his hands with a bunch of them draped over the table... The caption reads: Hey! These are easy! I think I'll make a lot of these!
Ok... so back to building our trim tool:
Glue the #24 blade onto one piece of the 1/8” thick balsa per photo #2 using thick CA. Use Gap Filling CA liberally. The blade is sticking out as far as it is for a reason… 1/16” deeper or protruding 1/16" more will not make a difference… 1/4" in or out from what is in the picture could make a difference... just try to get it close to the photo. DO NOT USE KICKER YET!
Next, glue the second piece of 1/18” thick balsa over the first, creating a “blade sandwich” per photos #3. Again use thick CA and apply liberally. Now spray kicker around all sides.
I choose to trim the corners of the balsa per photo #4 by habit as I use this same method for plastic trimming in all my plastic molded kits and this allows the user to get the blade into inside corners and complex shapes. I don’t know that it is all that important for use in trimming the EyePod parts.
And with that, we are ready to begin!
(Did I tell you I like these popcorn guys? ok.. never mind! ) LOL!
(It's near the end of the day, I've had more coffee than I should have had and it's not working anymore! lol!)
|Nov 10, 2010, 06:51 PM|
Blade sandwich - I wonder how they taste. I could have used something like this long time ago - I love it. Will build a few this weekend.
|Nov 10, 2010, 06:59 PM|
How to use the trim tool:
Contrary to what most people think when they see this tool and think: "Ah ha! I get it!", we actually DO NOT CUT with this tool!
We "score" the plastic with it...
We use the BACK SIDE OF THE BLADE... running it GENTLY across the plastic several times...
The back of the blade has a straight cut that is also very sharp (if you've ever pressed on the back side of an Xacto blade you unfortunately now know this all too well... We use this sharp back side of the blade to "plow" a microscopic trough/groove into the plastic... When the plastic is then bent back and forth a couple of times on this groove like a hinge, the plastic snaps off in a clean break! Very little sanding is needed if at all...
The video here shows the DaVinci 1.5 Meter canopy being trimmed... I don't suggest you go as fast as I do in the video! All I m doing is holding the plastic part firmly down on the table and then GENTLY, and LIGHTLY passing the blade BACKWARDS across the area I want to score...
NOTE: The plastic used in the DaVinci kit is much thicker than the plastic used in the EyePod. It will be even easier!
Ok, next post we will actually begin building...
Did I tell you I really like these guys?
At this point of exhaustion, it's the little things... Like taking a break here... Tresa just walked in the door and I'd love to spend a little time with her... Truly my best friend!
I'll be back though! photos are all done and in order... I jsut have to write the words...
|Nov 10, 2010, 07:04 PM|
Hate to admit I am just laughing Sentry.. but I am and that is just sick! lol!
Glad you like it... the concept can be used for al sorts of things... Creating balsa strips?
use your imagination just don't eat it! Eeeek!
Richard... still laughing!
|Nov 10, 2010, 07:56 PM|
Trimming and prepping the Turret Ball
Not sure how long I'm going to last here... it's been a LOOOOONG day!
The build has been completed, all photos have been taken, touched up, trimmed and most of the writing has been completed... I'm spending a lot of time re-reading and editing as I post... (Just decided this is the last post for tonight... at least of the build... I may cme back to see if any of you have any reactions to the build so far... I know I get pretty specific, but "Details" is my middle name! lol!
Each of the EyePod styles use the same specially designed camera turret ball so this section on the turret ball will be part of all future EyePod builds.
Hopefully these photos are self-explanatory:
#1: Use a pair of scissors to trim the flange around each ball half to within 1/16” of the ball’s edge.
#2 & #3: Use your previously built trim tool to trim the flange… Hold the shell firmly to the flat table surface and pass the blade backwards and gently as many times as needed. Reference the video in the previous post as a reminder… Use your trim tool a LOT SLOWER than I did!!!!
Per #4: This is what your ball shells should look like notice the scrap in the background with the circle drawn on it… We will need one corner from your trimmings so try and make it as big as possible.
#5: If needed go ahead and gently sand the trimmed ball edges on a flat hard sanding board… Do so only to clean the edges! Do not sand a significant amount of plastic away.
You’ll also notice that both ball shells have lines molded into them… do not cut or trim these at this time yet… We’ll get to them later!
|Nov 11, 2010, 11:18 AM|
Standard (Rectangular ) EyePod Buld: Trimming The Outer Shell:
Just like the turret ball shells, the rest of the parts of your EyePod are molded to be trimmed using the same trim tool in the same manner that we trimmed the turret balls… Take your time and remember… Gently! Lightly! And Backwards!
#1: After scoring the plastic using the blade backwards, the trim tool can be moved forward to help the process.
#2: This is what NOT TO DO! Score the plastic all the way around first using the backside of the tip of the blade until you can feel it wanting to come apart, but don’t separate the two parts… leaving it together at this point helps you to hold the part firmly and level against the table… If you’re not sure, check out the previously posted video again… I scored the parts before separating them.
#3 & #4: Trimmed Plastic Parts
#5: Using a regular Xacto blade, cut out the ball turret opening (This photos is of the Aerodynamic EyePod, but they are both relatively the same piece and process.)
#6: Ball turret opening trimmed.
|Nov 11, 2010, 12:35 PM|
EyePod Inner Structure:
Your EyePod kit is complete and includes a 3mm thick foam sheet used to create the inner turret ball structure. Print the template sheet (photo attachment #1), on your home computer/printer. Double check for any distortion and confirm correct size of your print by measuring the included ruler/scales. (The measurements are in inches.)
NOTE: The template here is for the Standard EyePod ONLY! There is a different set of parts for the Aerodynamic EyePod!
#1: Full size pattern and templates for the foam sheet inner structure. Cut them out from the foam sheet supplied with your EyePod kit.
#2: Using FOAM SAFE CA and Kicker, assemble the inner structure as shown in the photos. Make sure your sides butt up against the bottom of the “Top” ball turret frame. Height is fairly critical here.
#3: When your Frame is completed, it should look like this (kind of!), I pressed down too far and the space between the bottom of the ball and the insert step in the outer shell base is a hair too small. You can see how I pressed the top foam sheet frame so hard that the outer sides are slanted in… This is what NOT to do…
#4: DRY FIT your inner frame structure and test attaching the top shell. We’ll be gluing the inner structure in place in the next post.
|Nov 11, 2010, 01:11 PM|
Dry fitting the inner structure:
As we continue, we get nearer to completion! Your EyePod kit is complete and includes a special piece of black foam friction rubber. THis is where this phase of our build begins:
#1:Use scissors to cut out a 3/4” to 7/8” diameter disk from the black foam rubber sheet included in your EyePod kit.
#2: Use gap filling CA to glue the foam rubber disk to the raised section in the middle of the EyePod Base shell.
#3: Set the top shell of your EyePod into place (DO NOT GLUE YET!) and drop the camera ball turret in place. Use the ball to line up the loose inner structure so that the ball does not touch the outer shell. Once achieved, keep the inner structure in place by holding the ball down and gently slide off the outer shell.
#4: Glue the inner structure in place being careful not to let it slip out of place. (A trimmed but unassembled turret ball shell half is being used here, but the assembled ball can be used as well.)
Once you have securely glued the inner structure in place, you may glue the outer top shell into the bottom shell as shown in photo #2.
In photo #2, you will also notice that the two wood dowels (supplied in your EyePod kit), have been installed. To do so, use a drill or a pointed round file to create the holes to allow the dowels to fit in as desired. In this case, the dowels have been installed so that the #64 rubber bands used to mount the EyePod camera mount are parallel with the mount and set up for wing mounting or mounting on a flat fuselage section that is narrower than the EyePod is wide. The next post will include a photo of both methods side-by-side.
|Nov 11, 2010, 01:33 PM|
Ok.. Last few steps here and we’re done!
#1: Take a drill or pointed round file and create a small hole (no larger than 3/16” diameter) through the center of the black foam rubber disk and raised bottom shell molding. You should be able to find a molded dimple on the bottom to guide you. Either way, try to keep it in the center. Take your assembled camera ball with elastic tension cord installed and feed it through the hole.
#2: Pull the cord through the hole and slip a short section of the plastic tube supplied with your EyePod kit. Pull the cord tight and glue the plastic tube onto the cord and against the plastic outer shell. It’s important to keep the cord tight as this is what provides the friction between the camera ball, the foam sheet turret ring and the black foam rubber friction pad. This friction is what overcomes any vibration in your aircraft that might disturb the camera position or transmit vibrations to the camera.
#3: Trim the tension cord and plastic tube so that it is flush (or just below) the outer surface of the bottom shell.
#4: This shows the “typical” holes used to install the rubber band mounting retainer dowel in your EyePod frame. In this photo, we see the side mounted dowels for parallel rubber band mounting typically used for mounting your EyePod on a wing.
#5: This photo show tow ways of mounting the rubber band retainer dowel on to your EyePod… the one on the right is what has been shown through out this build… The one on your left is designed more for fuselage mounting where the rubber bands are parallel with the shorter ends of your EyePod mount.
The dowels (also provided with you EyePod kit), can be glued in place using regular gap filling CA.
Don't know if it could be any simpler than that!
Would love feedback on the build including questions, comments, suggestions...
|Nov 11, 2010, 03:56 PM|
You are so welcome... Life without modeling can be dull... but modeling without life is nothing...
I've been trying more and more to share both sides of who I am and what I have to offer... modeling tips as well as observations I have experienced...
The EyePlane build "In Plain Sight" is probably going to be my first of an entirely different approach to designing kits, prototyping them and then tooling up for production... I'll be sharing a lot more in the way of behind the scenes as well as behind the man... I know I have sought out people to learn from, both molders as well as Sage's... Like Forrest Gup says: "You never know what you're gonna get!"
Thanks for you kind words and observation.
PS: There are still more building posts to come... I,m switching over to the EyePlane thread today... building more and hoping to post either tonight or tomorrow... If you're really into seeing what goes on behind the scenes as well as taking a peek into my studio and shop (as well as my life! lol!) I'd recommend it.. Sharing as many tips over there as possible from home made tools to well... exactly how does on go about designing a plane for others to build?
|Category||Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|For Sale||8GB Vado High Def Video camera with POD||crd||Aircraft - General - Miscellaneous (FS/W)||2||Sep 23, 2010 09:26 PM|
|Discussion||DIY: Keychain Camera- Universal Mounting Bracket||guyg||Aerial Photography||2||Feb 11, 2010 09:50 PM|
|FS: RTF Wireless Video 1.2 GHZ 800mw system with CCD Camera and GP Antenna||tradernfl||Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W)||14||Dec 31, 2004 01:21 PM|
|FS: RTF Wireless Video 1.2 GHZ 800mw system with CCD Camera and GP Antenna||Nik-rc||Aircraft - General - Radio Equipment (FS/W)||13||Jul 19, 2004 08:15 PM|
|The best camera mounting system with movie||BAR-STOOL||Aerial Photography||3||Apr 20, 2004 10:01 AM|