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Richard,
If you like the moon gel, you'll love this stuff. Ultra-Elastic Clear Gel Rubber http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=n...6/3531/=9ktezo (Bottom of the page...) http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=56 -Tim |
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Soft stuff and Old stuff
Tim, from the looks of it laying over your arm I can only imagine the Softness of that stuff! I can imagine all sorts of uses!
For this particular project though, I see the thinner moongel working easier and possibly better (Thinner and easier for the average modeler to get their hands on it)... I have saved the McMasters catalog page (Expensive place to buy from but they must have EVERYTHING in the world that was ever made! lol! I keep their catalog on my desk as back up to when I need something quick, no matter what the cost... Tom, Thanks for the kind words about the Telos... It's still one of my favorites although there's not much sloping near by... (I got spoiled in the old days when I lived less than a mile from Hughes Hill where Jerry Bridgman, Daryl Perkins, Mark Grand and the like used to fly... I had a home made wind meter up on the roof that would operate a volt meter... Had a wire hooked up to the needle (very crude back then) so that when it hit 10 knots, it would sound an alarm and that meant quitting time had come and flying time was about to begin... Here's a short video of the maiden flight for the Telos at Hughes hill... rainy day but a lot of people showed up to see if it would finally fly... nose heavy, but after adjusting the CG, it was great! After dialing it in further, experimenting with ballast and pulling the stick back to force the canard wing to act as a brake I learned just how fast, slow (It could truly hover with complete aileron control), and aerobatic this plane was. Enjoy!
Working on the sketch and preliminary drawings for the little EyePod AP plane... This is definitely going to be fun... In case anyone is wondering, I REALLY LOVE my job! I've been designing planes since I was a kid (taking apart those Guillows stick rubber band planes to turn them into "other things" lol! (didn't we all?!?!)... Later when I began creating kits and especially when I got into film, Television and prototype work, there were many times when a deadline was looming like a monster storm just days away and my days blurred into one, pulling 18 to 20+ hour days and nights (longest was 76 hours straight... no naps, no drugs... just a lot of coffee! ), just to get it all done and shipped... So when an idea as simple as this little plane I'm conjuring up comes to mind, It may seem like just more work (and it is), but Geeze this is when I have the most fun! I'll share more as it evolves! ![]() Richard |
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Late start this morning... Beining work on "EyePlane"... Link to build thread
Ok...
Got back late last night, went to bed and woke up at 2:30 AM! Sheesh! I feel like a kid waiting for Santa Clause... Don't remember when I've been so excited to have fun building a plane... especially something so simple as the AP platform "Eye-Plane" I mentioned earlier... I went ahead and did it! Here's the link to the build thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1334276 I will be posting the build thread for the AP Plane in that thread, but keeping the build thread for the actual EyePod mount here... both will be going on at the same time... I'm also setting up the EyePlane for those of you who have asked about adapting it for use with other cameras and/or FPV work... details over there... Thank you for the support guys! You've been fabulous and just your interest has inspired me to work even harder (It's difficult at times working at home and alone day after day on projects that take so much time to develop... When the failures happen it can feel like the whole world is caving in and when the success stories are taking place it's usually only Tresa & Kyla who share the celebrations... I guess I'm appreciating more, the value of this cyber-community... Wished you all lived closer! lol! Enjoy! Attaching a second drawing for the EyePlane (Conceptual control is a way to visualize where I'd "like" everything to go and fit... as a concept, it is really only a "suggestion" to keep in mind while reality takes over and becomes the real "control" of the building process... lol! Best, Richard |
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EyePod Case Molds and New Concave Aerodynamic Base!
Ok, I'm back.... I've been busy over at the EyePlane thread… link: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1334276
It’s taking a little longer than I anticipated, but it’s evolving into the kind of highly detailed build thread that I’m known for… Also having a blast doing it and I think this little EyePod-based AP plane is going to be hoot to fly!!! Lots of studio and shop photos and a video showing how these little guys are created in plastic… Ok… So what’s been going on with the EyePods themselves? Pre-Production steps not very many people are aware of… But I thought some of you might be interested in learning (or at least seeing how), a new way to make molds... In order to produce highly detailed vacuum formed parts (The cutting lines for both the slot and camera opening in the ball are molded into those parts so there’s no guesswork when you cut… (I already destroyed a bunch during prototyping trying to get the right fit and the most amount of tilt travel! Lol!) The High temperature, metal filled vacuum forming bucks are pre-heated to between 140 ~ 180 degrees… (They’ll keep that temperature constant as long as I’m repeatedly forming parts.) The process involves molding the original master plug in Platinum based silicone and then casing the high-temp resin into the silicone molds… Platinum based silicone is VERY EXPENSIVE (don’t even ask! If you interested in experimenting with silicone, try G-I 1000 Tin based silicone… It will work fine for most resins and urethane)… SO on larger parts, I often try to reduce the amount of silicone I need to create a stable, non-deforming mold… (Remember that silicone is flexible… when poured in a thin sheet it is very playable…) The choices are to pour a relatively thick walled silicone mold (works fine for small parts created for toy prototypes), but for larger ones, we make what are called “case molds”… First the item to be molded is surrounded with a bout 3/8” of special clay. A little thicker just means more silicone is used, but much thinner and the mold may not work… With the EyePod molds, they are only single piece so no keying of two halves are needed. First I mount the master plug on a thick/stiff piece of plastic. Then I mark the 3/8” all the way around the plug… Then I warm up the clay and cut it with a wire into 3/8” thin strips and encase the part with the clay… I sculpt the clay so that it is smooth and has no undercuts. On this part (because it is symmetrical,), I sculpted a small key on one end in the form of a small trough. I then mount a wide piece of plastic tube that will later become our pour spout. Once it’s ready, I then build a box around the clay. This is where we will pour the plaster (in this case, I use Ultra cal… similar to dental plaster EXTREMELY HARD!!!! With limited shrinkage (oh yeah. You have to worry about shrinkage all the time… from the plaster to the silicone to the high temp resin… thousandths of an inch can add up quickly, so knowing this is taken into account when the masters are made. Once the box (“Dam” in modeling terms), is built, the inside is sprayed with “Pam” cooking oil spray (it works great! And beats the cost of some of the expensive mold releases!) After spraying, the plaster is poured in and you wait… and wait…. And wait…. (Pulling it apart before the plaster dries could allow the plaster to deform or shrink more than expected.) Mark the plastic sheet with a pencil to help re-locate the plaster casting before taking it off!) One the plaster is dry, disassemble everything and let the “case” (plaster casting) dry even more… When al is right, clean up the plug, spray the expensive silicone mold release and then reposition the plaster back over the master plug… use some clay to seal up the edges all the way around the plaster and the plastic base… If you look at the photo of this, you will notice the 3/8” space inside the mold… This is where the silicone will be poured accurately molding the surface of the EyePod and conforming to the keyed plaster case… hence. “Case-mold”! When the silicone cures, the master plug is removed and the prepped for creating the high temp buck castings… ALL of this has to be done on a PERFECTLY level work surface… I have a solid fire door shimmed every foot or so that is only used to create castings like this. A NEW EyePod! I’ve attached photos of a third EyePod configuration in the aerodynamic styling. It’s specifically designed to fit onto smaller rounded fuselages like gliders, (Think Radian), or fuselage shapes like the booms on a P-38 Lightning… It can also be used to send up the mast on a sailboat or a pole to look over fences or crowds at a concert, maybe strap it onto your cat's back and wee what really goes on…! lol! ![]() ![]() ![]() It will be available shortly after the standard and aerodynamic versions have been produced… Also working on the helicopter version… photos of that one coming soon too… Also, here's another EYEPOD video taken from my ICON parkflyer kit:
Ok… it’s Sunday… for some reason I woke up WAY too early today and began working… I’m going to take a break as soon as I gather up the photos for this post and sign off… Thanks so much for visiting… your support goes such a long way to keeping me motivated to continue my work with growing Jarel Aircraft Design (not to mention just putting a smile on my face after a long hard day working…) Have a great Sunday! Best, ![]() Richard |
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