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Old Mar 25, 2012, 10:37 PM
New Beeeeee
RUBNorris's Avatar
United States, CA, Sacramento
Joined Apr 2011
1,047 Posts
2x 2650mah 3s
Gopro
800mah 2s
5- 3/4" washers
10x7 prop
Turnigy L3015A-1000 Brushless Motor
60A w/ stand alone BEC 6v


Hobbyking EPP FPV Swift tow and crash (3 min 35 sec)
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 11:37 PM
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United States, FL, Daytona Beach
Joined Feb 2012
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Originally Posted by 3DMON View Post
That motor is fine on 4s but you have way too big of prop for 4s. I think I ran an 9x6 on that motor with 4s but it was a different plane. If you want to run a 10 inch prop with that motor you will need 3s or you will smoke that motor.
Cool deal. Ill make a run to the Hobby Shop and hook it up. Thanks
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 01:27 AM
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United States, FL, Daytona Beach
Joined Feb 2012
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Can anyone take a picture of their FPV Camera and how it is wired up? The camera that came from Hobby King was DOA and the second camera I got, burnt up. Camera number 3 is in the mail and I am not trying to have to buy a 4th. I've got the HK Tiny OSD to go to also. The OSD is hooked up already and it transmitts on the monitor, so Im thinking I just take the camera, hard wire it to the battery (11.1v) and ground and run the audio wire to the transmitter and the video to the video in on the OSD, from there back to the video on the transmitter.. This is how I hooked up my last camera and it went up in purple smoke. Then again, the directions on the box said it was a 9 volt operation, but the directions inside stated that it could handle 12.6. Im allllllll ears for advice. Oh, and the camera is a Sony 1/3" CCD http://www.securitycamera2000.com/pr...PCB-Board.html
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jglover View Post
Ok, so for those of you that have done the t-tail mod, one question... Do I need to add any surface area to the vertical fin in the front or can I keep it like it is? And if I need to add any surface area, what is the best thing to use for it? ie: Foam or Balsa?
what is the angle of incidence of stab ,if there is any ???? does it fly better with t tail or this is just for safety of tail?????
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 01:29 PM
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United States, FL, Daytona Beach
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Originally Posted by RC Novice View Post
what is the angle of incidence of stab ,if there is any ???? does it fly better with t tail or this is just for safety of tail?????
Its been said that this plane, when set up normally without the t tail, it has a tendancy to drag its tail in the turns. This helps along with a bit of rudder mixed in. It also serves as a safety for the tail when landing, especially without landing gear.
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 10:42 PM
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United States, FL, Daytona Beach
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Gave her a new paint job
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 11:17 PM
Eduardo
Brasil, RS, Porto Alegre
Joined Aug 2008
461 Posts
wow

Wow ... very nice !
impressive job

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Gave her a new paint job
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Old Mar 26, 2012, 11:28 PM
Eduardo
Brasil, RS, Porto Alegre
Joined Aug 2008
461 Posts
Some pics of my epp-fpv MOD

Here ar some pictures of my epp-fpv.
I use this frame to teste my autopilot code.

this is may first attemp with fiberglass / carbon fiber .
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 12:06 AM
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United States, FL, Daytona Beach
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Originally Posted by jglover View Post
Gave her a new paint job
As is, she weighs 4.4 lbs. That's not including the fpv gear, which isn't much more weight. Is this about the normal weight for the plane?
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jglover View Post
As is, she weighs 4.4 lbs. That's not including the fpv gear, which isn't much more weight. Is this about the normal weight for the plane?
how did you attach your horizontal stabilizer? glue?
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:30 PM
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United States, FL, Daytona Beach
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Hey guys, just looked and saw that the motor I have is rated at a max of 40 amps. does that mean I need a 40 amp BEC to the motor and adjust the battery size from there? I currently have a 50 amp BEC on it.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by fpvguy View Post
how did you attach your horizontal stabilizer? glue?
I used 5 minute epoxy. It's in there too and isn't coming out. Once I get the maiden flight done and know its good, I'll post all the pics and how I did it.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 04:21 PM
KK4EHM--FPV Mon!
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United States, FL, Sebastian
Joined May 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jglover View Post
Hey guys, just looked and saw that the motor I have is rated at a max of 40 amps. does that mean I need a 40 amp BEC to the motor and adjust the battery size from there? I currently have a 50 amp BEC on it.
I think you mean esc not bec. You should just leave the 50 on there. The prop size is what is going to dictate how many amps you will be pulling. Just prop it so it doesn't pull more than 40 amps. To do this you need a wattmeter.
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 3DMON View Post
I think you mean esc not bec. You should just leave the 50 on there. The prop size is what is going to dictate how many amps you will be pulling. Just prop it so it doesn't pull more than 40 amps. To do this you need a wattmeter.
i did mean ESC.. haha.. too many acronyms in one day. How do I go about testing it with the watt meter?
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:15 PM
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EPP FPV T-Tail Mod Step by Step

Ok, so since Ive been asked, here is how I did the t-tail mod step by step. Keep in mind, I have NOT done a Maiden Flight yet. Im waiting for a 3S Battery to come in from HK so I dont burn up my motor. Anyways, here goes...

Step one:
Cutting the vertical stab to be flush.

If you notice when it comes in, the bottom of it is curved to fit on top of the tail wing.Do not shorten the length, just make the front bottom of the stab flush with the rest of the bottom (see Pic 1). Next is to make a "canal" that the Vertical stab will sit in. I used the tail wing supports to do this. Seperate the supports far enough apart to fit the Vertical Stab into. I lengthend mine to place a servo in it as well. I used balsa wood to run in between the supports. DO NOT Glue yet. This is only to get measurements and make sure it fits and is what you want. I moved the rear support foward approximately an inch to have the end of the rudder flush with the CF Rod.(See Pics 2,3,4 and 5).

Step 2:
Attaching the Horizontal Stab to the Vertical Stab

1st, find the center of the Horizontal Stab (the wing with elevator). From the factory, my line that was present from having glued the wing together, was not exactly center, so measure it and use the Tip of the "V" as a center line for the front. Once you have determined the center line, place the vertical stab onto the center of the horizintal stab and draw a line around it. (See Pic 6, 7 and 8).

Now that you have drawn the lines around the vertical stab, now its time to get that Soldering Iron out and heated up with a cutting tip. MAKE SURE that when you cut this out, that the Horizontal stab is level. You will cut into the Horizontal stab creating an angle that his high on the pointed side of the wing and going downward into the foam and completely through the foam towards the end. DO NOT CUT past the bend for the Elevator. You want that to be one piece This angle is because when you cut the bottom of the stab flush, it made the top of the stab angled downward. If you did not angle the cut, your horizontal stab would be sitting at that same angle and you will have problems. (See Pics 9-14).

Next, I took a piece of the CF strip that came with the plane and cut a strip to fit the vertical stab. I then used an exacto knife and ruler to cut a slit into the stab to insert the CF strip. This is to add support to the stab. DO NOT cut the slit all the way through, just deep enough to insert the strip (See Pic 15).

The next step is to cut away the excess of the support used to make the canal (See Pic 16 and 17). Now assemble everything to make sure it fits together all nice and snug and DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING YET! Notice how in Pic 18, the Horizontal stab is level on the vertical stab because of the angle that was cut. Make sure this is right.

Now, its time to start putting it all together. Using 5 Minute Epoxy mix (Get 3 tubes) epoxy the "canal" together, but DO NOT epoxy it to the CF Rod yet. When I made my Canal, I added three Jumbo Craft Sticks (from Wal-Mart) to wedge the vertical stab into place (sides and bottom). Make sure it is tight. This will add to the support of the wing. Epoxy the Vertical and Horizontal Stabs together as well but DO NOT glue it into the canal yet. (See Pics 18-24).

Next, I took a Jumbo Craft Stick and glued to the bottom side of the elevator. I did this to add leverage and support to the elevator for when I mount the servo to pull on it. This allows even movement between the left and right side of the elevator instead of pulling up the center only, or one side or the other.
I also mounted a Jombo Craft stick on both sides of the vertical stab to add support. All of the sticks were put on using the epoxy. (See Pics 25 and 26)

Now, its time to make the Supports for the T-Tail. Using the Jumbo Craft Sticks and the other part of the wing support (skinny piece of cut out wood with three slots.. there's 2 of them) supplied in the package, I made the support. Cut the round ends of the craft sticks flat. Now, cut each slot from the skinny piece of wood evenly and cut the round ends off. (See Pics 27 and 28) Epoxy the pieces together at about a 45 degree angle as shown in the pic. Let them dry.

Now that you have the supports made, its time to attach them.. You will need a level surface and a small bubble level. Now, look back at your assembled tail section and look at the top. The excess sticking out of the top needs to be cut off so the top is flush. (Refer to Pic 21). After you have cut that off, now turn it over and lay it flat on t your level surface with the vertical stab sticking up in the air.. Make SURE your surface is level. This is key to this step. Now, grab one of those Jumbo Craft Sticks from that big bag you got and lay it across the Vertical stab (See Pic 29). Place the small bubble level on top of the Craft Stick. Push or pull the vertical stab left or right to make it level. ****NOTE: if your surface is not level, then your tail will not be**** Here's the complicated part. After you have figured out about where you need the Stab to be, let it go and grab your two supports you just made with the 45 degree ends. Place one on each side so it looks like Pic 29. Epoxy only one end of each support to the VERTICAL STAB ONLY. Let it dry. After they have dried, now take the other ends and move them along the Horizontal stab left to right as viewed in Pic 28 until your bubble is in the center of your level. Mark the ends and epoxy them downin that position. ***NOTE: You will have to hold the supports in place by hand while they dry. If you dont, they will move and dry in the wrong position*** Your done with that step.

Now, Its time to epoxy the T-Tail into the Canal. Put a nice layer of epoxy into the bottom and along the sides of the canal. Now place the tail into it, wedging it in. Fill in all the gaps with epoxy, especially around the front of the stab where it "V's" to the front. If you plan on putting a servo in front like I did, put a block up in front of the "V" so that the entire gap is not filled, leaving room for the servo. You can kind of see what Im talking about in Pic 30. Notice in Pic 31 that the Jumbo Craft sticks I put on both sides of the vertical stab are going down into the canal. You want this to happen! It adds support. Be SURE to epoxy arond them really good and get it down into the canal all the way around the Stab. Now, let it dry.

Now, once you have the whole thing together, you can now slide the T-Tail onto the CF Rod. DO NOT GLUE IT YET! Place your wing onto your fuselage and your fuselage on a level surface. Grab that little bubble level and place it on top of your main wing. Make it level. Now, keeping the fuselage and wing together and level, twist your T-Tail to make it level too. Check it with the bubble level and re-check the main and back again to the T-tail. Once it is all in line, epoxy the T-Tail to the CF Boom. DO NOT bump the tail out of place. Let it Dry.

Now, You are almost done. The only thing left is to mount the servos. I played with several different ways to mount them and found the best to be the following. The Rudder Servo is mounted directly in front of the Vertical Stab inside the canal. I took a Jumbo Craft stick and cut it up to fill in the void around the servo until it became wedged in. I then epoxied it in, but only around the craft sticks. I filled the rest of the void with silicone; filling in the entire remaining openings of the canal. (See Pics 30 and 33). Now, you will need to mount the Elevator Servo. You will need your Soldering Iron again for this one. Place the Servo on the center of the top of the T-Tail and mark an outline around it. You want it to face so that the servo gear thats sticking out of the top of the servo is to the opposite side from center as your control horn. That way, when you put the Servo arm on, its flush with the Control horn. OR, you can mount the servo and then mount the control horn.. Its up to you. Now, Epoxy that servo into place. See Pic 35 and 36. Any ways, my findings were that if you mount the servos on the CF Boom, there is not enough movement of travel in the rudder or elevator to cause the plane to respond while in flight. This is because the servo wire bends because of its length and the angle they are pusing. Moving the servos to the places I stated, allowed full range of motion for the elevator and rudder because the wires are too short to bend and they remain stiff.

AND THERE YOU HAVE IT! T-TAIL MOD STEP BY STEP. If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me or quote this posting and I will be happy to respond. I am also open for critiques on the design. Thanks and I hope this helps you guys out and takes the guessing out of making the t-tail.
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Last edited by jglover; Mar 28, 2012 at 01:58 AM.
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