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Old Aug 16, 2011, 10:31 AM
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Nice catch!
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 10:18 AM
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Going to start my build

I just started flying FPV a couple weeks ago. Here is a link to one of my flights:
FPV Flying - Easy Star - Eagle Tree OSD - Fat Shark Dominator Goggles (4 min 21 sec)


Going to move the gear from the Easy Star to the EPP FPV and see how it does. Very happy with the Easy Star but I have a ton of gear on it for that little of a plane. Sort of wonder if will be a wash though. The Easy Star sips power. I can fly 18-20 minutes on a 2200 pack with all the FPV gear and a Go Pro. I can carry more battery power on the EPP FPV but it looks like it will eat a lot of power so wonder if worth it.

I got some good ideas on the buld from this thread. Thanks for all that put their ideas in this thread. Hope to post my progress on this model soon.
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 10:25 AM
Team Basement-RC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony97 View Post
Going to move the gear from the Easy Star to the EPP FPV and see how it does.
I'm doing the exact same thing. I use the AXN Floater-Jet, and it's overloaded with gear. I fly about 12-15 minutes on a 1600mA battery. I'm also going to use a 4S battery for the FPV EPP instead of 3S. Can anyone tell me what the real difference is in doing this?

Here is a video of the AXN flying:

Cloudy Day - Flown With Dragon Link (3 min 15 sec)
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 02:30 PM
Formerly bUd~Fokker
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Tracks you want to know the difference in using a 4s pack compared to a 3s pack????
I hope i have read your question wrong as that is something that anyone should know?

A 4s has more cells then a 3s and therefore more volts (it's 3.3v per cell or 4.2v fully charged).

A 4s pack i dont think is suited to this plane unless its a low kv motor.
_______________________

It's funny reading about people putting their gear from their easystars into this plane as i have recently done the opposite.

I had a burn out of my OSD in my EPP FPV so i have since switched the gear over to the easystar and have been flying blind without any osd. I mainly went back to the easystar for its agility and climb rate over the EPP FPV but now i have hit 3km out and back with it and thinking 4km might be the limit with my 2650mah pack i might switch back to the EPP FPV and fly the same route to see if is any better for range.

It's an ok plane, it's just not a glider... I think of mine as being like a big old workhorse, it can carry some weight and therefore serves a purpose for me.

The Easystar in comparrison is like a fat greyhound ... and the Skywalker is still an ugly cow even if it can chew the grass well.
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bUd~Fokker View Post
Tracks you want to know the difference in using a 4s pack compared to a 3s pack????
I know a 4s has more volts, I'm just unclear on what affect that has on a given motor with regards to current draw, speed, etc.
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 07:05 PM
Formerly bUd~Fokker
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Gosh you must be very new to all this! This is the very basics of electric flight, and i just assumed someone getting into fpv would already have that kind of knowledge. Have you been flying long?
Every brushless motor has a KV rating like say 1100kv which means for each volt the motor will do 1100 revolutions per minute (rpm) (roughly ..depends on props ect). So on 3cells (fully charged is 12.6 but lets use 12volts) that motor will spin at 12x1100 or 13,200 rpm. Now that same motor on 4s (16.8 fully charged but lets use 16) would be 1100x16 = 17600 rpm. So basically it will go to spin it faster ... now if the prop on the 3 cell pack was also used on the 4 cell pack the amp draw would be a lot higher. You usually change props when you change packs to make sure you keep the amp draw below the rating set for your motor. With this plane you ideally want to swing a 10 or 11 inch prop so you choose a motor and battery combo to best suit the prop size.
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 08:17 PM
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I see. The batteries were free, so I was hoping to use them. Looks like I should find some 3S instead.
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 08:18 PM
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Routing of elevator and rudder servo wires

I liked the idea of how some folks cut the foam and installed the elevator and rudder servos right in the horizontal stab. I want to do the same. Should I exit the foam above the tail boom and drill into the boom or use fish wire and poke through the foam near where the boom starts in the main fuse? I wish I had thought to buy servo wire to put my own leads on.

Any direction here (pictures best) would be great. Thanks guys.
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 08:31 PM
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Hi Tony, i did that to my plane and i went through the foam at the end of the boom. I didnt like the idea of putting a hole in the boom as it might weaken it ... and i didnt want to tape them to the outside of the boom.

I got a bit of coathanger and heated it up in the fire and took several stabs at poking through from the boom hole into the main compartment.
Getting the first hole through wasnt so hard, but getting it big enough to take the two servo plug ends was a bit harder.

I had several goes with the hot bit of coat hanger but there was always a lil chunk stopping me. I then noticed the large threaded rod i had for something else (i think was using it as balast inside an easystar cf wing spar) i heated that in the open fire and it worked like a dream with the thread working like a big foam file!!

A long peice of threaded rod should only be a coupla bucks at your local hardware store.

I used 1m long extension leads and they were spot on for length!
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 11:25 PM
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Thanks so much for the great tips. I will give it a go. I will run to radio shack to see about buying the right wire to build extensions or just put a bunch together. Not sure if I can find them 1 meter long.

How much carbon rod should be extended past the fuse?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bUd~Fokker View Post
Hi Tony, i did that to my plane and i went through the foam at the end of the boom. I didnt like the idea of putting a hole in the boom as it might weaken it ... and i didnt want to tape them to the outside of the boom.

I got a bit of coathanger and heated it up in the fire and took several stabs at poking through from the boom hole into the main compartment.
Getting the first hole through wasnt so hard, but getting it big enough to take the two servo plug ends was a bit harder.

I had several goes with the hot bit of coat hanger but there was always a lil chunk stopping me. I then noticed the large threaded rod i had for something else (i think was using it as balast inside an easystar cf wing spar) i heated that in the open fire and it worked like a dream with the thread working like a big foam file!!

A long peice of threaded rod should only be a coupla bucks at your local hardware store.

I used 1m long extension leads and they were spot on for length!
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 01:11 AM
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I just pushed and twisted my boom in until i couldn't push it in anymore, but i think i might have read somewhere in the forum here where people had mentioned the boom length ... im not sure if they worked that out by the length of the plane quoted by Hobbyking.... there could of also been some mention of people cutting their boom down by a coupla inches to get it to meet that length ... but since the search function is down i cant find it.

Id say just twist it in as far as it will comfortably go ... mine went in probably 2 inches or so.
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tracks View Post
I'm doing the exact same thing. I use the AXN Floater-Jet, and it's overloaded with gear. I fly about 12-15 minutes on a 1600mA battery. I'm also going to use a 4S battery for the FPV EPP instead of 3S. Can anyone tell me what the real difference is in doing this?

Here is a video of the AXN flying:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_rWAizyG0w&hd=1
thats actually an impressive video of an AXN! do you have some posts showing your gear on the AXN?
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 01:33 PM
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No motor mount or prop adapter

I was starting to get my bench ready for the build and removed all the parts and layed them out. This is when I realized....the motor from Hobby King they recommend on the EPP FPV page DOES NOT come with a mount or prop adapter. Went to the local hobby shop and they don't carry it. HK is out of them and I didn't want to wait 25 days for one to come in anyway.

The more I think about it, the more just getting a different motor may be best. The one I got from HK (the one on the EPP FPV page) is a 1400 KV motor. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...00Kv_550W.html

1400 Kv seems high. I want to run one or two 3s packs. I have a ton of 2,200 packs but was looking to later buy some 3300 packs for this to run parallel.

I read over most of the posts on this thread and there is some info on motors. Anyone recommend a good motor setup for me?
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i3dm View Post
thats actually an impressive video of an AXN! do you have some posts showing your gear on the AXN?
You can see it all on this post:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1008
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Old Aug 18, 2011, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony97 View Post
I was starting to get my bench ready for the build and removed all the parts and layed them out. This is when I realized....the motor from Hobby King they recommend on the EPP FPV page DOES NOT come with a mount or prop adapter. Went to the local hobby shop and they don't carry it. HK is out of them and I didn't want to wait 25 days for one to come in anyway.

The more I think about it, the more just getting a different motor may be best. The one I got from HK (the one on the EPP FPV page) is a 1400 KV motor. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...00Kv_550W.html

1400 Kv seems high. I want to run one or two 3s packs. I have a ton of 2,200 packs but was looking to later buy some 3300 packs for this to run parallel.

I read over most of the posts on this thread and there is some info on motors. Anyone recommend a good motor setup for me?
I love that motor on mine with 3S and 10X5 prop. I run, up to 3 2200 3S packs in parallel (I use 2200's for several planes) .

plenty of power (maybe even too much, but I like too much ).
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