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Old Mar 09, 2012, 04:46 AM
OlliW
Joined Sep 2009
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Hey Luv, KJ,
I want to clarify a point. It is true that the procedure Luv follows for doing the programming is nasty, however:

It is simply not true that the programming of Atmel microcontrollers is difficult. It is in fact very simple!

Of all possible procedures Luv is using the MOST clumpsy of all! This is because at the time I was looking for the OVERALL CHEAPEST solution I could find. I was aware of the USBasp programmer but was not aware that you can get it for <$5. Also, I was not aware of the Arduino USB adapters which you can get for <$10. Today I do NOT recommend the procedure Luv is following anymore (because I learned that at the SAME overall cost you can get easy to handle options). In hindsight it was probably a mistake to go for the cheapest solution and not to talk Luv into buying a dedicated ISP AVR programmer, because it left, and continuous to leave, the impression that this would be complicated.

Let me give a mechanical analog. If you try to unscrew a tightly sitting screw with Allen head with a Phillips screwdriver, this is possible, but obviously it would be much easier with a Allen screwdriver.

As always, it strongly depends on the tools you're using how difficult a job is. Luv's tools for programming are the least appropriate ones. Buy a USBasp programmer for $5 and install the eXtreme Burner AVRv1.2 windows GUI program... and everything would reduce to clicking some buttons! So, the only legitimate statement is:

"With the tools I am using this programming thing isn't for everybody, however better tools are available for cheap with which this programming thing is a cakewalk".

I doubt you would call drilling a 2mm hole a difficult thing. And you would not hesitate to buy a driller for few bucks.
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 12:20 PM
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Come on Ollie, you have to have a laugh once in a while. It was only an attempt to lighten up on something that looks intimidating.
For what it's worth, this little gem can do 30MPH, flips, rolls and all kinds of flying fun for less than the original cost of our CX-2's. It's a little smaller than I'd like it to be for my tired old eyes flying 150 feet away, but it still looks like a ton of fun. As expected, the larger they get the more $$$$$$ they are and I think a little less agile. There are 400/ 450 size versions that are about $450 RTF. Options, if you have that kind of money, include GPS, camera and many other toys. The Eflite MQX will run on any Spektrum technology transmitter. The motors are their usual solid core motors. Walkera has their UFO's, but now if you want something bigger, they have an MX 400, again, for about $450.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1609559

The video with the guy flipping it in such a small area is pretty neat. OBTW, it's said to be pretty feisty in winds up to 10MPH.
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 12:34 PM
OlliW
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Quote:
It was only an attempt to lighten up on something that looks intimidating.
KJ, I got that, and your word play made me actually laugh! In particular as it just looks intimidating LOL
Have fun
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 05:46 PM
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great post ollie! Thanks
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 06:10 PM
OlliW
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LOL thanks Luv!

EDIT: I will check out the new Windows GUI program to use the FTDI adapter as AVR programmer this weekend... if succesfull your pain with avrdude will have an end!
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
LOL thanks Luv!

EDIT: I will check out the new Windows GUI program to use the FTDI adapter as AVR programmer this weekend... if succesfull your pain with avrdude will have an end!
Thanks! I will take simplicity and ease anytime over difficulty and confusion. My adaptor from HK is enroute. Should be here midweek. Then I will attack this again with a whole new perspective. ;
USBasp AVR Programming Device for ATMEL proccessors

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=21321

Ollie, I finally got the files to my documents folder and they open up! Brilliant!
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Old Mar 10, 2012, 03:43 PM
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Kj, as a sidenote. I am going to separate the escs from now on. One on each side. Maybe that will help keep the heat buildup to a minimum. I was trying to keep the wiring as short and simple as possible, but separating them to dissapate the heat better may be the way to go. I am doing this on the two 10a esc setups I am building today. All it needs is to have one motors wires exit on the L side and the other on the R. If you wish, send the one I sent back and I will rework it so you can do this on yours. Then send it back with your new vtail mixer.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 04:00 AM
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Olli, it is up and flying. Tomorrow I will hammer it and see if I can get the gyromixer symptoms to rear up. But in my few minutes of air time this evening it was running quite well. I am hoping the larger esc's with the 2a bec rating are the cure here. I feel the bec was being sucked beyond its limits with the much higher draw larger digital metal geared servos I am running and was the earlier problem. Not your gyromixer. Keep your fingers crossed and my next post might be quite promising.
I also added some ultra light flybar weights. Wow!
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 08:09 PM
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Progress report. So far so good on the new Cx3. I haven't had any glitchy gyro control issues on this since the Esc changeover. I did however discover that even with the extended 2.0 shaft Lee sent me that I quickly encountered blade strikes with the servos set out on the 4th hole of the servo arms and the use of the much better Skytec swash. It has roughly 30% more swash angle capibility over any other version I tested. Even after porting the center hole out for more swash angle on them. So I had to in a sense "invent another extended inner shaft. So far I hadn't been totally happy with our options and the difficulty all of us were encountering in having to build or order these. Sooooo. Drumroll please!

I think I finally nailed it and figured out a super cheap soarce of decent extented inner shaft stock. I ordered in half a dozen 450 Pro flybar shafts to play with for a different project and noticed the metal was tempered and mic'd out at a full 2mm. So, one thing led to another and I simply dremel cut one down and notched it. Fits like a glove!!!!

Plus it added a much needed inch to my overall extension so the blades now have no way of tagging each other in flight. I solved the extension gap issue by simply cutting down some 3mm cf rod to length, then overlaying it with some 5mm cf rod to keep the inner cf from fracturing under end to end pressure and C.A. glueing the peices together. Works like a charm guys. And sooooo cheap to do.

As a side note I installed the Xtreme lower cf folding grip mod and used the Skytec Cx3 hub. The pins are much longer on it and perfectly fit the Xtreme grip without any modifications needed! Then I pulled an old Xtreme aluminum folding grip that had been broken in an earlier attempt to use it in my dual swash build and I cleaned out the old threaded brass out of them from the snapped balls and then tapped them out for new balls. I remember why these didn't work out so well. After my first couple of flights, and wrecks, the tiny set screws were coming loose that hold the two halves together. Even after loctite. I changed out the loctite to a newer batch, and then mounted up the second set of Xtreme55 deg blades. I had ruined the previous pair when they shattered during a blade strike episode.
Plus if you look close I installed a set of very light flybar weights. I have a little bit of induced tbe as the heli hunts just a touch but this thing is now lightning quick in cyclic changes. I like it!!!!
I also wanted to test out a set of Hobbyking 450 skid supports. Again super cheap and they work fantastic! I then installed my new fusano (Hobbyking again on sale) trex 250se canopy after some light work to get it to fit, and created another new Cf tail boom assembly since I trashed my last one in the wreck. Total cost of the new boom. Probably 40cents.
Canopy? $11. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16452
Skids? .76 cents. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11499
New 10a Esc's, $8.58ea. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=4204
Flybar, .43cents http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...zer%5FBar.html

Flybar weights. $1.50.on ebay shipped.
And the blades ran about another $6.60. http://www.slickzero.com/page/SRHP/CTGY/BladeCX3
Plus while I was at it I improved the velcro skid mod by adding a stiffer card into the battery tray, and also 4 longer 14mm set bolts to hold it all together. And a more visible deans battery connector since I am temporarily out of the smaller Jst connectors. I also direct soldered the new esc's to the motors since I was careful to orient the wires for correct motor direction before I final heat shrunk and wrapped the connectors.

I have to admit here that I did smoke one of my new Esc's due to some of my own stupidity during setup. I got interrupted and assumed my pos/neg were layed out correctly. NOT! That little puff of smoke cost me my last female batt lead and the esc. Not good.

Here are the final pics of my indoor/outdoor brushless boardless OlliW gyromixer equipped new Cx. The new 10a esc's stay cool since I windowed the shrink wrap and ran a much more open canopy to let them breathe. Notice I split them for this build and run one on each side with the chips facing outward. The wiring is messier but the results are better than my previous cleaner look. I am now going to wire all of my builds for people this way. I am in process of tearing two down I just completed for other people to split the esc's, and I have one being sent to me to revamp it in a similar fashion to help cool it down also.
Sorry guys, I should have thought of this much earlier. And thanks to KJ for bringing it to my attention in a pm. That got the mental ball going in the right direction.

So Olli, once again. Now the heli is flying fine and it so far has not duplicated the flying problems it previously had. I am fairly certain guys flying with stock low draw servos and lower performance style flying will not encounter this problem.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 08:53 PM
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The "feathering shaft" you referred to is actually a flybar, or am I getting wrapped around the axle here? Good find.
A cheap spacer for the outer shaft when going truly "extended" on the inner shaft is a piece of bent outer shaft if you have one around (and who doesn't?).
The one English review on the cheap 450 skid supports says they're too soft. I guess experience will tell if that's true. The Eflite Blade 400 supports aren't that expensive to try either.
Did you do something to the boom support bracket to make it thinner near the inner shaft gear? My bracket is much thicker (twice as thick from the looks of it) and had to be finessed in that area so it wouldn't rub the gear - to the point where if I didn't do that, it bound it right up from being in contact with it. Come to think of it, your inner shaft gear is sitting higher than mine, so, the bracket isn't an issue.
The only reason you went with the 10 A ESC's was because of the 2A BAC which is needed for your metal gear servos, right? There is no other reason to bump up to the 10A ESC's, is there?
What's the difference in length between the BOL blades and the CX-2's(it was hard to judge in the picture you posted before)? You're getting more lift because of the surface area, but does it hurt FFF?
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 01:10 AM
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So, I received the parts for my CX2 brushless conversion.

First of all, I advise against the "Mystery 12A ESC" that I bought. The programming is REALLY confusing, and the little scrap of paper that's supposed to make everything clear is useless. My gyro placed one of those ESCs in programming mode, now one motor spins in reverse (I have checked for proper rotation when soldering).

I'll tackle this with a fresh head in the morning.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 06:53 AM
OlliW
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Quote:
Now the heli is flying fine and it so far has not duplicated the flying problems it previously had.
I am glad you sorted out the issue and got the gyro mixer running fine now. Great job, Luv!

Have you tried to set Rudd Rate to something like 1.5?
This gives you the larger piro rate you are longing for, and I found that in contrast to the previous firmware versions with the latest version the heli behaves much better and (hopefully?) quite acceptable.

Would you mind to describe a bit more your experience as regards the performance/flying feeling in comparison to the "conventional" vtail mixer+gyro setup? I mean, you are one of the very few who have both setups (probably used even on the same heli), so I would be interested to hear which difference you do see (be it for the good or bad).
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 04:34 PM
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LMH,
Just curious, I've been reading and reading and decided that I would like to build up from the CF frame and make the 'ultimate' CX2 brushless dual swash V tail. I like the Titanium skids but they look to be very unforgiving. The featherlight airframe at the beginning of this thread looks great though! Have you ever created a list of parts that you feel would be the best overall machine in the end?
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrjr View Post
LMH,
Just curious, I've been reading and reading and decided that I would like to build up from the CF frame and make the 'ultimate' CX2 brushless dual swash V tail. I like the Titanium skids but they look to be very unforgiving. The featherlight airframe at the beginning of this thread looks great though! Have you ever created a list of parts that you feel would be the best overall machine in the end?
It's a work in progress. That frame was originally about $30 and has gone up to $35, if it's the Microheli.
I'm in Hilton. Do you have cx-2's you've been flying until now?
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 12:08 AM
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Here's my progress with converting the CX2 to brushless:

I simply plugged one of the motors in throttle channel and the other one in the gyro.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zucqa...ature=youtu.be

I know, the video is crappy, but it flies, so I'm happy with that much for now.

I have tried the v-tail mixer, but there's one big problem, it reprograms my ESC units immediately after I plug the battery in. I plugged in a couple of servos in that v-tail mixer and saw that it puts both servos at the maximum position for at least three seconds, so my ESC units enter programming, which is no-go for that mixer.

Anyone wants a free v-tail mixer?

So, I went to "Dionysus design" website and bought myself a purpose built coaxial mixer ($30.99 with shipping), we'll see how that one goes.

I have not messed with the throttle to rudder mixer, but there's one problem right of the bat that I can think of: I fly in HH, so any mixing with the rudder (in HH) will not work right away, don't even need to try it to know that.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 02:31 AM
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Ok, for the long list of questions. And welcome jrjr! Kj, yes, the only reason to go to the 10a esc's is for the extra bec amperage to run the larger digital metal gear servos. Tell you what, they are twice as fast though. No messing around. The Bol blades were kinda wild. 1/4 throttle and it was up flying. I never had a chance for outside flight testing on them. Just too busy trying to get the board cleared off from the current projects I am building for other guys that is getting in my personal way here. Not that I am complaining.

Gedaxis, nice work! Be careful on Dans mixers from Dionysus. Not that they are bad in any way. But at one time he reprogrammed the mixer to run with the Castle creations esc. And they lost the ability to link up with certain longer pulse rate esc's like the turnigies and hobbywing esc's most run. If he addressed this, I would be highly interested in the new news and will gladly pass this along.

Olli, yeah, the new setup is running glitch free. I am actually having trouble flying this little hotrod now. This is really quick. I am ready for the new vtail mixer instructions also since my Hobbyking link just showed up this afternoon.

JrJr,
Kj is correct, this is an ongoing build thread. Lots of the older parts I started using in the earlier thread have changed and the links no longer work. Plus, my ideas of the dual swash config is once again morphing. I want the abiltity to create more precise aluminum swashes and hubs than my previous plastic versions. They worked but their tolerances were iffy at best and very hard to replicate from what I hear. Worked for me though. Plus you have to define the ultimate Cx. Do you mean the ultimate mechanical Bell/hiller paddle controlled flybar dual swash, or the flybarless version. Plus, you have to take a realistic view of how much $$$ you want to invest in this pursuit. I built both and each has its plusses. I am glad to help in any way I can.
Randy
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 03:56 AM
OlliW
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Hey Luv,
Quote:
my Hobbyking link just showed up this afternoon
cool

First, to use USBasp you have to install a driver. On another page I found the comment: "If you buy a USBasp on ebay, don't use the driver provided in the auction. Get the original driver from fischl.de. Most of the problems with not recognized programmers can so be avoided." So, go to http://www.fischl.de/usbasp/ and download the file you find under "Driver", named usbasp-windriver.2011-05-28.zip. There is also some manual on the HobbyKing site, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2X365809X5.pdf, if needed.

Instead of using extreme burner as I suggested in the above, I'd like to (mis)use you as my "tester" again if you agree. I wrote a little tool I called AvrBurnTool.exe which hopefully simplifies the burning process enourmously. A figure is shown below and the zip is attached. Maybe you would be willing to give it a try.

AvrBurnTool is just a Windows based GUI for running avrdude. Avrdude is this command line program you used so far. It is, as you have noticed, a "bit" tricky to use, but on the other hand is the most reliable and proven software for burning AVR/Atmel microcontrollers. So, it's not a bad idea to stick with it, and the intention of AvrBurnTool is to make its usage as simple as possible. So, what you will see is happening is that as soon as you press a button, a command line Window (this black backgrounded oldfashion looking window) is opened an avrdude is running. In this window you see all the information output by avrdude as before, and after completion it waits for a "press any key to continue . . .".

Please unzip/extract the respective .zip file (attached below) into a folder of your wish. BE CAREFULL: the zip includes the two files avrdude.exe and avrdude.conf which are NOT identical to the two files with the same name you already have! So please be carefull to either (i) NOT UNZIP into a folder in which the "old" avrdude files are or (ii) to backup the old files somewhere (although you likely won't need them anymore). (Eventually, in the next release, AvrBurnTool will be integrated into the respective project zip file(s), but for the moment its stand alone).

The steps should be simple to follow, just go through (1) to (6).
In step (1) you choose your ISP AVR programmer you are using. In your case it should be set to USBasp.
In step (2) you choose which device it is you want to burn (AvrBurnTool can used for all other devices such as the gyromixer or the RobbeBox). In your case you want to build a coax mixer based on the Arduino board with a ATmega 328p microcontroller (Arduino Pro Mini), hence you should select coax mixer ATmega328p.
In step (3) you have to hit this little "..." button to the right of the text line which opens a File Open dialog which allows you to browse to the correct hex file, which in your case is OlliW_Coax_Mixer_Firmware_v007_Bootloader_m328p8mh z.hex.
Then in step (4) press the button CheckConnection. This will open another window and let it happen until you see "press any key to continue . . .". You now have to inspect the output you see to infer if your connection is right. Ideas what to look for are given in the little output field of AvrBurnTool. In this case you have to watch out for a line with teh format ":01000000XXYY". Then press any key to continue.
Then in step (5) press the button Erase Chip and again another window will open. Let it run until the "press key..." shows up. Inspect the output. To go on press any key.
Then in step (6) press the button Burn All and again another window will open. Let it run until the "press key..." shows up. This can take some time and if everything is working you will see quite a lot of output and things happening. Simply wait until "press any key..." comes up. Then inspoect the output and go on by pressing any key.
For the outputs as they should look like in steps (4),(5), and (6) see the figs below.

Now the green LED on your Arduino should blink. That's it. 6 clicks to success .

Tell me how you get along with AvrBurnTool, I would be interested to know. Thx. Olli
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 04:11 AM
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Luv, how about expounding on the "hot rod" you have a hard time controlling. What did you do to it that makes it so fast? I realize your limited space has an influence on this, but putting in a different mixer shouldn't give you more power or speed. Is it the new brushless motors you've gone to? Do you mean it's more agile because of the 4th hole on the servo arms and the metal gears in the servos? Is it hard to handle because you've gone too light with the flybar weights? I think Microheli sells anodized aluminum weights at their usual $$$$$$$ price:
http://helidirect.com/microheli-cnc-...cx-p-13056.hdx.
Hurry, only 1 left. Speaking of which, I'm starting to see more dealers get out of the average, ho-hum heli's and parts an go to high end stuff only.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
It's a work in progress. That frame was originally about $30 and has gone up to $35, if it's the Microheli.
I'm in Hilton. Do you have cx-2's you've been flying until now?
Yes I have 2 cx2's, a blade 120sr, and a blade sr. Haven't flown the SR yet though (except in the sim). I am actually in Wolcott, about an hour east of Rochester. Seems like a lot of money for that frame but if you wanna play....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis View Post
Ok, for the long list of questions. And welcome jrjr! Kj, yes, the only reason to go to the 10a esc's is for the extra bec amperage to run the larger digital metal gear servos. Tell you what, they are twice as fast though. No messing around. The Bol blades were kinda wild. 1/4 throttle and it was up flying. I never had a chance for outside flight testing on them. Just too busy trying to get the board cleared off from the current projects I am building for other guys that is getting in my personal way here. Not that I am complaining.


Olli, yeah, the new setup is running glitch free. I am actually having trouble flying this little hotrod now. This is really quick. I am ready for the new vtail mixer instructions also since my Hobbyking link just showed up this afternoon.

JrJr,
Kj is correct, this is an ongoing build thread. Lots of the older parts I started using in the earlier thread have changed and the links no longer work. Plus, my ideas of the dual swash config is once again morphing. I want the abiltity to create more precise aluminum swashes and hubs than my previous plastic versions. They worked but their tolerances were iffy at best and very hard to replicate from what I hear. Worked for me though. Plus you have to define the ultimate Cx. Do you mean the ultimate mechanical Bell/hiller paddle controlled flybar dual swash, or the flybarless version. Plus, you have to take a realistic view of how much $$$ you want to invest in this pursuit. I built both and each has its plusses. I am glad to help in any way I can.
Randy
Thanks for the welcome! I have read most of this thread, it is long with tons of info. Thanks for taking the time to do put it all in writing. One thing for me is that it would have to be very forgiving to fly so I think I would stick with a flybar.

I am a little confused on one point though. You guys talk a lot about extended shafts. If a dual swash is in place seems to me that the blades would angle the same and thus eliminating blade strikes.... why extend with dual swash?
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jrjr View Post
I am a little confused on one point though. You guys talk a lot about extended shafts. If a dual swash is in place seems to me that the blades would angle the same and thus eliminating blade strikes.... why extend with dual swash?
The extended shaft is for those of us who aren't getting into the dual swash - not many have braved that new world. Don't forget that the Extended term is usually accomplished in a round about way. The Xtreme version actually uses a taller top rotor head. The pins the grips work with are higher and the effect is that the inner shaft is longer. They come in the 8MM and 12MM versions.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
The extended shaft is for those of us who aren't getting into the dual swash - not many have braved that new world. Don't forget that the Extended term is usually accomplished in a round about way. The Xtreme version actually uses a taller top rotor head. The pins the grips work with are higher and the effect is that the inner shaft is longer. They come in the 8MM and 12MM versions.
That clears it up, thanks. That may be the best way to go to start off with for me, for now.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 08:57 PM
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If you have the actual head from an extended shaft, you can then make your own inner shafts like Luv did with a Hobby King 450 flybar or by using 2MM shafting from a local hobby shop (Dan's Crafts and Things or the one in Webster) or making some from the oil or air hardened 2MM rods, like I did, from MSC. The hobby places should have Xtreme extended inner shafts so you can get the extended metal top rotor head and then go from there. You get a normal length inner shaft with the extended head. All you have to do to make an inner shaft is cut the length with a Dremel cut off wheel and then, using the same cut off wheel, make a couple of flats at the bottom for the inner shaft gear and at the top for the set screws that hold the upper head on.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
Hey Luv,
cool

First, to use USBasp you have to install a driver. On another page I found the comment: "If you buy a USBasp on ebay, don't use the driver provided in the auction. Get the original driver from fischl.de. Most of the problems with not recognized programmers can so be avoided." So, go to http://www.fischl.de/usbasp/ and download the file you find under "Driver", named usbasp-windriver.2011-05-28.zip. There is also some manual on teh HobbyKing site, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2X365809X5.pdf, if needed.

Instead of using extreme burner as I suggested in the above, I'd like to (mis)use you as my "tester" again if you agree. I wrote a little tool I called AvrBurnTool which hopefully simplifies the burning process enourmously. A figure is shown below and the zip is attached. Maybe you would be willing to give it a try.

AvrBurnTool is just a Windows based GUI for running avrdude. Avrdude is this commandline program you used so far. It is, as you have noticed, a "bit" tricky to use, but on the other hand is the most reliable and prooven software for burning AVR/Atmel microcontrollers. So, it's not a bad idea to stick with it, and the intention of AvrBurnTool is to make its usage as simple as possible. So, what you will see is happening is that as soon as you press a button, a commandline Window (this black backgrounded oldfashion looking window) is opened an avrudue is running. In this window you see all the information output by avrdude as before, and after completion it waits for a "press any key to continue . . .".

Please unzip the zip in a folder of your wish. BE CAREFULL: the zip includes the two files avrdude.exe and avrdude.conf which are NOT identical to the two files with the same name you already have! So please be carefull to either (i) NOT UNZIP into a folder in which the "old" avrdude files are or (ii) to backup the old files somewhere (although you likely won't need them anymore).

The steps should be simple to follow, just go through (1) to (6).
Entries (1) and (2) I have set already and should be OK for you.
In step (3) you have to hit this little "..." button to the right of the text line which openes a File Open dialog which allows you to browse to the correct hex file, which in your case is OlliW_Coax_Mixer_Firmware_v007_Bootloader_m328p8mh z.hex.
Then in step (4) press the button CheckConnection. This will open another window and let it happen until you see "press any key to continue . . .". You now have to inspect the output you see to infer if your connection is right. Ideas what to look for are given in teh little output field of AvrBurnTool. In this case you have to watch out for a line with teh format ":01000000XXYY". Then press any key to continue.
Then in step (5) press the button Erase Chip and again another window will open. Let it run until the "press key..." shows up. Inspect the output. To go on press any key.
Then in step (6) press the button Burn All and again another window will open. Let it run until the "press key..." shows up. This can take some time and if everything is working you will see quite a lot of output and things happening. Simply wait until "press any key..." comes up. Then inspoect the output and go on by pressing any key.
For the outputs as they should look like in steps (4),(5), and (6) see the figs below.

Now the green LED on your Arduino should blink. That's it. 6 clicks to success .

Tell me how you get along with AvrBurnTool, I would be interested to know. Thx. Olli
Ok Olli, just finally got the new link file for the HK link installed. Took friggin forever. Was late at night, was tired, and certainly Would be easier if I explicitly followed correct instructions. Hehe. My windows simply would not recognize the file. Finally got it separated and unzipped. Bingo!

Before I install your new whizbang easy setup. Actually it is installed and running now. Looks outstanding Olli!
How exactly do you want me to wire in the new mixer into the HK harness end? Then I should have this up and running sometime today. Got two helis waiting for the install.

Pretty happy with the Gyromixers now though.
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 03:18 AM
OlliW
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Quote:
How exactly do you want me to wire in the new mixer into the HK harness end?
at your USBasp you should have a 10 (or 6) pin connector, and you should have some manual which shows you the meaning of these pins (if not scan the web for eg isp 10pin connector, or go to the HobbyKing manual for USBasp http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2X365809X5.pdf)eg

These are labeled with names like Vcc, Gnd, MOSI, MISO, SCK, Reset(RST)... well, just connect them to your cables soldered to the respective pins at the Arduino board as I described few posts in the above. be CAREFULL with distinguishing VCC and RAW at your Arduino board! Reread the respective last post, go with the photo, which for your convenience I provide here again.


According to the manual, you have to have jumper J1 set in order to power the Arduino through the USBasp VCC pin.

It may happen that the power provided by USBasp via its Vcc pin is not sufficient for powering up the Arduino board (though I think it will be sufficient). In that case connect the RAW pin at your Arduino board to an external power source such as e.g. the 2S lipo or the power output line at one of your BESCs (as I said, I don't think this should be necessary; you will recognize this problem by the fact that CONNECT doesn't work even though everything is correctly connected and set up).
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 03:21 AM
OlliW
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Hey Luv,

I guess it would be much appreciated if you would provide a detailed step-by-step description of what you had to do to get USBasp installed and running!

And what you had to do to flash the Arduino board (even if in parts it would be "just" a summary of the above, but I think a summed up description form start to end would be cool)

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Old Mar 18, 2012, 03:04 AM
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You got it! I just logged in after a hectic crazy day and am excstatic to see some more guidence here from your corner. As soon as I get this done I will post a step by step on it. Not only that but a flight report. I will have this up in a day or so.

Btw: I have two pin connectors. One in the middle of the HK link is a 10 pin, and the one on the final end is a 6 pin. I may just have to follow the wires individually on the 6. But with your pic I can use the 10 and just insert my soldered in pin leads.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 06:29 PM
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Ok, I am going.

I have to admit this is 100 times easier than the earlier method. This new program link from HK plus your downloads are quite understandable and actually make sense.

The very first thing I did was to download the link you provided per your first instructions. The link is identical to the one provided on the HK site, so the HK link is unneeded.

Quote:
First, to use USBasp you have to install a driver. On another page I found the comment: "If you buy a USBasp on ebay, don't use the driver provided in the auction. Get the original driver from fischl.de. Most of the problems with not recognized programmers can so be avoided." So, go to http://www.fischl.de/usbasp/ and download the file you find under "Driver", named usbasp-windriver.2011-05-28.zip.

Once this was downloaded into my documents folder I then separated it to make absolutely sure none of it was crosslinked with any other folders you provided. Then I unzipped it, checked it out to make sure the files were responsive by opening them and looking around. If the files aren't accessible this won't work.

Next plug in the HK USBasp chord and it will immediately kick the computer into searching for the correct setup software. It will look for a minute or two and pop back up a screen telling you it cannot find it and do you want to look inside your computer. Click yes and it will bring up the screen that contains the version of computer you are running and do you want to look in its files. Again, click yes and head to the Documents, or downloads folder. Wherever you have unzipped the file to. I prefer doc since I know I will be using it again. Just as soon as you click on this link it will ask you if you want to access this. Click yes. In less than a few moments it will tell you the software has successfully worked and that screen will immediately dissappear.

You are now ready to proceed with programming the arduino board.

Then I accessed the files you graciously linked earlier and got the programmer you provided up and running. It is pretty simple. Just double click on the file named olli coax mixer vs007 and enter it. Next double click on the file named application that points toward the function you want to access and it immediately brings up the screen you previously mentioned. It is a good idea to have the post up on the main screen that you can minumize and bring back up as a step by step guide to provide the information to program the new vtail mixer correctly.

Next thing I did was to follow your post on what each of the 10 holes on the pin connector were for. Then I took the soldered leads from the new mini arduino board and carefully plugged them into the appropriate pin holes. I did notice that on the arduino board there is a removable jumper so you can remove the power coupling? Not sure here? Anyways back to the process. Here are the pics of the new HK connector plugged into the arduino board and the laptop I am using.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 07:01 PM
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Ok true to running with me I immediately hit a first snag. When I click into the menu to access the OlliW Avrconfig program it comes up with a very small fractured screen. Barely visible in letters somewhat hidden in the background is a warning that certain files were not found that were needed.
Here is a pic by pic of what is available in the files and what I can access in the three separate application (or run program) files.
I enclosed pics so you can see what exactly I have in the main olliw coax mixer file and how it responded.
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 07:53 PM
OlliW
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Hey Luv,

to be honest I find it difficult to decipher from what you wrote what you actually have done.

You got apparently the USBasp driver installed and USBasp working. Also, you got the connections between the Arduino board and USBasp established. NICE!
Quote:
Then I accessed the files you graciously linked earlier and got the programmer you provided up and running. It is pretty simple. Just double click on the file named olli coax mixer vs007 and enter it. Next double click on the file named application that points toward the function you want to access and it immediately brings up the screen you previously mentioned.
I do not understand what you are saying here though. What also confuses me is that you seem to have done that BEFORE you established the electrical connections between Arduino and USBasp.

You are saying that you successfully programmed the Arduino board with the hex file OlliW_Coax_Mixer_Firmware_v007_Bootloader_m328p8mh z.hex?

If so, the led on the Arduino board should go through some blink sequences after power up and it should already function as mixer.


The AvrConfig startup failure you describe in the second post is a completely different and unrelated issue. I notice from your screen shot that the file sizes are too small, and that these are the compressed file sizes. So, I assume that you have not unzipped the olliw-coax-mixer-v007-v014b-v017-2012-02-19.zip file, but are browsing directly in the zip file. AvrConfig doesn't always start from within a .zip file (depends strongly on which zip program is used). So, please explicitly unzip and/or extract the olliw-coax-mixer-v007-v014b-v017-2012-02-19.zip.

You should have actually noticed this before while playing with the gyromixer, it should be the same issue for the AvrConfig files in the gyromixer-firmware folders I see in your screen shot.

BTW: The AVRootloader has exactly the same problem, it can't read its INI file as you can see from the fact that ALL fields are empty or in default! AvrConfig however must find the INI file since it needs some info from it build the screen, hence you get the error messages (that the screen is too small to display all error messages is a bug, which I have noticed already).

Quote:
I did notice that on the arduino board there is a removable jumper so you can remove the power coupling? Not sure here? Anyways back to the process.
I guess you mean the USBasp adapter and not the Arduino board (the latter doesn't have a jumper). But you are guessing right.

Olli
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 09:17 PM
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Ok, glad you cleared up the jumper issue. I did get the downloaded programs unzipped right off the bat from the OlliW programs and also the usbasb link. I just peeked into your programs to make sure they were up and running before linking it to the aruino board. But, when I plugged the usbasb link with arduino board installed I could only get a half picture of your OlliW initial setup program to initialize. yes the files are unzipped. I went through them beforehand to make sure they were. But, I seem to have a fractured file or I am not reading one correctly, or one is missing. No programming is done as of yet till I clear up my (maybe) still a zip file somewhere issue. But looking at them none are.

I will give it another shot hoping I did miss something. I spent the down time building my last gyromixer to donate to a friend over in bankok on a CX3 I built for him. I had forgotten how tiny and precise those wiring leads are into the board. lollz!
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 10:00 PM
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As far as I can tell, everything is unzipped in the OlliW coax mixer vs007 file. Olli, I think I just nailed it. I extracted all the files from the entire file and moved them into another spot. It worked! But the enclosed file brings up a gyromixer programmer. Or is this what I am looking for? The pic you posted in the setup directions had a step by step program and was vastly different.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 02:52 AM
OlliW
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EXCELLENT!

The enclosed program brings up a COAX-MIXER program! Look at the entry in the first text field, it tells CoaxMixer-XXXXX. Also, the available fields are different from those for the gyromixer, aren't they?

I wrote AvrConfig such as to be able to handle all my projects. Which it handles depends on the setting in the Device text field (which you BTW can change via the tools menu, but that's not relevant here). As the gyromixer also the coaxmixer can be configured by setting some parameters - if and only if you want to use this option. Also, the programming box is working if you (once the firmware is loaded into the Arduino) connect it to the MotB connector. However, these options are OPTIONAL, you don't need them for operating the coaxmixer (they are so to say for the more advanced users!).

For getting the coaxmixer running, the ONLY file you need from this folder is OlliW_Coax_Mixer_Firmware_v007_Bootloader_m328p8mh z.hex.

So, what you need s NOT AvrCOnfig but AvrBurnTool! I had attached the respective zip to post #867. Download it, unzip it into a folder, and run AvrBurnTool.exe. And follow the instructions in post #867.

EDIT: I change the above post a bit to make it a bit more clear.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 01:24 PM
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Shoot, once again my apologies. I was running the v007 download you sent me and not AvrBurn v001. Which was still sitting unattended and unzipped quietly waiting in my Doc folder. I decided to just photo step the production since a pic is worth a thousand words and no misunderstandings can occur.

And the final pic brings up the next question. (sorry don't know why but pic 4 and 5 are out of order ) Pic 4 is the final sequence.
And you do realize that if I am doing this everything that can go wrong will.
OK, Where to go from here?

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Old Mar 19, 2012, 01:55 PM
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And KJ, back to your previous questions as to why the new heli is so fast.

It is a combination of all those things.
1. Full-on 3s brushless power. 2s doesn't even remotely compare. Tip the heli forward and full throttle it and it will accellerate to well over 30mph in an instant.
2. Yes, the 4th hole mod gives it the ability to almost turn over on itself. Directional changes are actually violent when you give it throttle at the same time or stop it from full speed directions.
3. The swash I am using is the skytec version from Sven's HeliDeluxe site. I found them to be vastly superior to any other swash. Even my own modded versions. On my microheli swashes I had to port out the center hole to achieve the swash angles I prefer. This allows the swash to slop around the outer shaft somewhat and I lost precision control. The Skytec version (oddly not much more expensive if at all over the microheli) gave me close to 30% more swash angle and hugs the outer shaft with a brass collar in a swivelling ball center. Whereas the Microheli is just an open space. Also the MH swash has tremendous ball bearing slop. So when you give it full commands it tends to slop over in the opposite direction so you never achieve precise full swash control nor full swash angles.
4. The use of the 55 deg blades with this system really brings it alive.
6. I used lighter flybar weights on a stainless tempered 6 3/8in flybar when flying with the easier to control lighter 55deg blades. Add in the much higher headspeeds, and this means that in radical directional changes the flbar gyroscopic effect is more easily changed from one axis to another. Aka: much quicker upper head response. The upper head is no longer lagging as far behind the lower blade changes.

In a more docile/normal Cx the upper head actually fights directional changes to a greater degree. So what happens is that when the lower blade set is ordered to change direction the upper head rotation responds to this change sloooooooooooowwwwwwly. I have cut this response time down significantly. Be aware the lightened flybar weights do not work well with the xtreme whites or blues since the blade lift tends to offset the weaker flybar gyroscopic effect. In a word the heli begins to toilet bowl.

So when I use the 55deg blades I have to change out the flybar weights to the lighter ones and when using the Xtreme whites I run heavier weights.

7. And that brings up the next change I had to impliment. With the vastly greater swash/ lower blade angles, and use of the solid folding grips, I quickly found myself back in blade strike territory. I actually shattered a set of 55deg blades in flight. I noticed I was crossing the blades dead on about a full 1 1/2 inches in from the blade tips in hard manouvers. So this brought on the need for the even farther extended upper head. Even now they barely miss each other when running the 55deg blades. However using the Xtreme whites or blues the blade flex is significant enough so that they clear each other by a safe margin except for very xtreme commands.
8. Now add in the use of the Gyromixer. This has really allowed me to have significant tail control even in harsh moves. Where before the tail could be just about anywhere, now I can count on a very good HH control. So in a sense I can more accurately predict where the tail direction is and my commands are more intuitive and predictive. In a sense this allows me greater control during hard moves that were sloppy before. Often resulting in a wreck.

Tell you what KJ, I am really wondering if at this point since the gyromixers are working well if this might be your next evolution. However the Vtail setup you are going to use is still significantly superior to the stock setup. Once I get your throttle back to full use your heli will really move with the new vtail mixer. Plus later you should be able to plug in any memms gyro as an upgrade and have a really superior heli. It will be plug and play.

The point is. This coaxial now flies instead of hovering. And it actually took me a little while to get used to it.

Btw: Sven. My machinist has agreed to custom cut new pins for our larger 450 sized dual swash Skytec heads! This will allow me/us to use 450 5mm grips and decent normal 5mm grip cp blades on the helis. I plan on using 360mm blades.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 02:08 PM
OlliW
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Hey Luv,

OK... we have an unexpected problem here...

I scanned the web for this problem... and it unfortunately is full of it.

This are indeed two, unrelated issues.

warning: cannot set SCK period....
In the web I found many comments on that, let me give just these:
"There is nothing wrong. Chinese usbasps often ignore SCK command."
"I get the same warning about the sck but I have no problems with the programmer. Everything seems to work fine so I ignore the warning."
"The SCK-warning is normal and is to be ignored."
So, I suggest to follow these advices and just to ignore this warning

error: program enable: target doesn't answer. 1
According to the web this error exactly means what it tells, and the solution is exactly what it recommends, namely "double check connections and try again". I can again cite some comments from the web:
"it turned out I had the programmer cable plugged into the controller board the wrong way around",
"This indicates that it does not connect at all and as I did not bother checking the cable I made, it is possible that the device/cable was a bit fiddly before my mentioned harsh solution or so I like to believe."
"Check the connections of USBasp with uC. Check the power supply of the uC."
So, I suggest to follow these advices and ask you to double check your connections. While there hardly can be any misunderstanding with the connections on the Arduino board, I can imagine that the pin layout for USBasp may not be as obvious as it seems. Maybe the above picture has to be viewed mirrored? Is there any indication on the USBasp port from which you could identify pin #1? Do you have a way to check if e.g. Vcc at the USBasp port is indeed a positive voltage? Or maybe even easier, does the red led at the Arduino board light permanently?
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 02:16 PM
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I just inspected very carefully your figure, which shows the USBasp connected to the computer and the cables to the Arduino board. Your USBasp device is "nice" and tells you exactly were each pin is sitting (I can see the labels MOSI, NC, RST, SCK, MISO on the top). From this photo it indeed appears that you have mixed up the connection/pins (may I assume what you pressed the 10-pin socket onto the wireband yourself? It appears that it should be turned around by 180)(if you follow the labels printed on the USBasp, the VCC must be on the side of the connector there the red marked cable is, I just can't tell from here whether you have to rotate your connections by 180 or you have to mirror it, though from the logic of how these flat-wire-connectors work I would guess you have to rotate by 180).

EDIT: ahhhhaaaa... now I understand the problem... the above figure for the pin layout of the 10-pin connector is MISLEADING... it refers to the male port and NOT to the female connector. GO WITH THE DIAGRAM GIVEN ON THE FIRST PAGE OF THE HOBBYKING MANUAL!

EDITII: I changed the above figure to something hopefully less misleading! Sorry, man, haven't anticipated this problem.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 02:40 PM
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No problem Olli, and no apologies needed. This is what we do! Try things and expose the flaws. Then refine the process so it works. I am just incredibly grateful to have your experience and invaluable help here. Let me rewire the connector and give this another shot. I am actually working off a male plug btw.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Tell you what KJ, I am really wondering if at this point since the gyromixers are working well if this might be your next evolution.
KJ, you should. It is much easier to use than it might appear at first. Read bebev's blog. Maybe it helps looking at it this way: with the vtail mixer setup you almost certainly like to have a computer transmitter meaning that you have to deal with the programming of this transmitter. With the gyromixer you can use any transmitter (or a computer transmitter with its default settings) but have to program some few values in the gyromixer. I'd say no big difference here. However, wit the gyromixer you get the best flight performance.

Luv, as regards the gyromixer, have you tried setting Rudd Rate to something like 1.5? I would be eager to hear your opinion on this. I mean, as you correctly pointed out the low piro rate is the single main disadvantage yet. I found the behavior and flight characteristic with Rudd Rate = 1.5 quite acceptable. What do you say?
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 03:02 PM
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No, the arduino board was silent. I did triple and quidtriple check the connections. Man, I am glad you are leading me through this. I pulled up the HK guide and it shows the pin connectors in what looks like a female guide. Either way there is no way to miss the proper pin location since the tab will orient it correctly, unless of coarse if it is upside down mirrored? Hmmm, let me check.

And Olli, I will set all my RR's at 1.5 today and give them a go. I am pretty happy with its performance. Just doing what I do and push things to find their weak spots.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 04:27 PM
OlliW
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Quote:
female guide
it's the layout of the male connector attached at the USBasp unit!

(it's male, since the electric active pins remind of males, the casing which surrounds all this is irrelevant in this classification )
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 05:15 PM
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Thanks Olli! Just to eliminate any confusion I tracked down each individual lead coming from the Usbasb to the 6pin on its end. I had to make sure the correct resistance values were a true 0. Sometimes the voltage will run through the board and come out as a different value.

Here is the process and here are the results if one wanted to correctly use the provided 6pin male connector at the lead ends. The red wire running from the Usbasb is the Vcc or raw line. Once I isolated this it only took a few minutes to correctly wire and diagram the 6pin to board. And in the diagram (pic 4) mosi is actually pin #11

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Old Mar 19, 2012, 05:53 PM
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I would say we were successful.

When I plugged the HK usbasb adapter in this time I got both a green and a red light on the arduino board. Here is the photo finish on the first arduino. I will wait for confirmation before burning #2. Also I need some final wiring instructions if ya don't mind.

Again. I have no idea of why the pics keep going out of correct sequence. Pic 7 is actually the first one.
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 06:51 PM
OlliW
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Luv,

THIS LOOKS G O O D!

I assume you did the erase chip too but just didn't post the output window. As I said, this looks really good. Wasn't that hard after all, huh?

Let's do a little test. Then you power on the Arduino board now, what blinking sequences is the LED going through?

As always, I would recommend to first complete this first mixer before going to build the next one (who knows what pitfalls are still to come , no need to do them twice LOL).

Next you only have to solder the leads of the four servo cables to the respective pins. This is shown best I think in the gallery on the project web page (ATTENTION: please keep in mind that the labbeling in photo #13 showing the back of the Arduino board is INCORRECT!)

Do you plan to build the version with the poti on it?
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 07:00 PM
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Well, Luv, how exactly are you encountering all of these crazy FFF and hard turns, etc. if you aren't outside doing it, or are you? Like it or not, this is my contention with what these heli's do in the real world as opposed to what they'll do inside. Unless you're in an area where it can stretch its legs, you can mod the heli all you want and just throw it around a small area thinking it's where it should be, but how do you know?
Are you saying the mixer is going to be swapped and we'll see what happens? How do you propose to fix the speed/ lack of power compared to what it used to be like on brushed motors? It's as light as it's going to get. It's already on 3 cell battery power. If I go to 55 Degree blades, I also have to go to lighter flybar weights and a longer inner shaft? The longer the inner shaft, the more prone to bending at the least little thing.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 12:04 AM
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United States, WA, Spokane
Joined Oct 2010
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Olli, thanks. I will log into your blog later and finish wiring this up. I missed my photo op on the first erasure but I will catch it the next time around.

KJ. I have flown this in my little cottage at almost a 90 to the ground banking a heli that is not suppossed to bank, plus yes, I have also given it the outside flight abuse. That is where I shattered the 55deg blades. I mistakenly thought it was from the cold. When it happened right in front of me inside I knew with a certainty the blades were crossing up. I have dents on the forward edges as proof. Plus, I have crashed this a ton getting used to it. The main extended shaft is still running true.

Yes, the mixer being swapped should net you roughly 30 to 40% in greater throttle response. The lightened flybar is only effective if you plan on aggressively flying with the 55deg blades. And the place they are the most effective is outside. To be honest I pulled them off last night and outfitted it back with the xtreme whites and heavier weights for inside flying. I needed some extended flights to accurately test the new esc's and motors for efficiency and heat and a more docile flight to do so. When those 55deg blades are on it I cannot resist pushing it. I actually destroyed my only plant screwing around with hardcore committed banks ending with full-on throttle stops when I plowed into it. I had chunks of green everywhere. I was one foot short. Hehe.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 07:59 AM
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Joined Mar 2008
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Even though you thought it added unnecessary weight, the GloWorm adapter does a great job to give you adjustment for longer than normal inner shafts for more separation. If Xtreme gives you 12MM = ~1/2" of separation, going an inch is a ton!! Are you still using your home-made spacer for the outer shaft? That has to mess up the vertical center of gravity. That FAT 3 cell battery helps get that back under control - maybe. The wider skids would also help with that so it doesn't tip as much on landing.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 09:24 AM
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Yes, good points. But it flies just fine with a 2 cell. Been pulling an all nighter trying to figure out why the new vtail mixer won't power up the heli. Not only that I have two new gyromixers that will not power the lower blade set. Driving me friggin nuts. I went through parts from 3 helis mixing and matching, switching and trying new Rx's and Tx settings. Rebooting, rebinding, I even opened the cases and resoldered. All to no avail. One positive thing. I changed out the longer links from a certain individuals lower carbonfibre Xtreme blade hub and got the swash links in closer to the pins.

Been a long frustrating night.

Ok Ollie. Here is the process of wiring the arduino board and turning it into a non functional vtail mixer. hehe.
I did access your blog and identically prepped and wired the board. Of coarse I prob missed something.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 09:37 AM
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The day after I sent out my CX-2, the shorter balls came in the mail that I bought from Erdnuckle. They appear to be even shorter than what you're showing, but I could be wrong. Even with the shorter balls, the links are still at an angle. Do the aluminum grips give you the same thing or did they totally screw up the design by making the composite grips too wide?
In the pic labeled "Different View", is the shrink from that connection in red rubbing the out- runner? Can it be tied to the rail of the battery tray so it doesn't rub? It's very hard to position things so they don't rub and cause friction. Would it be better, since you no longer really have a CX-2 that you're dealing with, to go to a larger 250 size frame? Would an HK 250 GT frame allow you to install CX-2 running gear? I know the skids let me down in that the FAT battery won't clear, but maybe the frame would offer needed real estate for this build. Another solution would be to use what I had initially done with my Plexi plate. Ditch the tiny shelf that comes with the Microheli frame and make a flat plate that goes out further and is wider. Lay out the gyro, ESC's and mixer or whatever you end up with for components on the top and the receiver on the bottom - but with more surface area to use. Just a thought.
BTW, Ollie, the transmitter was a problem until I got a DX6i at Christmas time. The thing that I have to keep playing with is the gyro settings. I have the throttle maxed out at 125% (as high as it goes), but it seems to lack power. It's taking a good 80%+ throttle just to get it up in the air.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 09:50 AM
OlliW
Joined Sep 2009
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Hey Luv,
as much as I can tell from the figures your solder work looks perfectly fine.
What do the two LEDs tell after power up? Please try to describe what they do as accurately as possible.
Olli

Just to double check, in figure #5 the yellow shrinked cable8s) are soldered to the second pin from right in the top row of pins?
The key on the front, any chance that it is in fact pressed down by the transparent shrink tube? (in my case it didn't, but maybe your shrink tube has a bigger shrink ratio)
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 12:50 PM
OlliW
Joined Sep 2009
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oh Luv... I did inspect your earlier photos on what you did in the burning using USBasp... and I only now realize that you may have burned the WRONG hex file into the Arduino! It seems you burned the file BL_4CoaxMixer_MotB_m328p8mhz.hex and NOT the hex file OlliW_Coax_Mixer_Firmware_v007_Bootloader_m328p8mh z.hex I specified in the above. Please double check!

If this is indeed the case, the situation can however easily be saved. What you have to do now (and which would not have been needed with the hex file given in bold) is to flash the actual firmware into the Arduino using the AVRootLoader program and the USB programming adapter!

Please read carefully:
not AvrConfig, not AvrBurnTool, but AVRootLoader!
not USBasp, but the (red Sparkfun) USB programming adapter!

You have used AVRootloader before for flashing the firmware into the gyromixers, and the procedure is now exactly the same, except that you flash now the hex file
OlliW_Coax_Mixer_Firmware_v007.hex

Please read carefully:
not BL_4CoaxMixer_MotB_m328p8mhz.hex, not OlliW_Coax_Mixer_Firmware_v007_Bootloader_m328p8mh z.hex, but OlliW_Coax_Mixer_Firmware_v007.hex!

The red Sparkfun USB programming adapter has to go into the MotorB connector at the Arduino board!


(these dammed ultra-long windows filenames....)
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