I've started to build a sorta scale CC Barrelback from scratch. I need to know a few things before I start to assemble the parts. As you can see I've cut most of the parts for the framework. It's going to be about the same size as the Dumas kit(28 1/2" loa) & use similar type construction. What I need to know at this point, before I start gluing the keel & the bulkheads, is the angle & location of the propshaft so that I can cut the keel & add doublers at this time to save work later. Anyone who has built the Dumas kit should be able to help me out with this location. The plan that I am using is very basic, without much detail.

I could also use the location & size of the rudder at this point.

Thanks for any help you can provide - I'll be posting more pix as I progress.

Thanks,

Erle

Originally Posted by werlec

What I need to know at this point, before I start gluing the keel & the bulkheads, is the angle & location of the propshaft so that I can cut the keel & add doublers at this time to save work later.

Not a Dumas.. but the general arrangement might help..
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=1952847

Here's a pix of the Dumas BB blueprint. Prolly a few builds here that may help. Search Dumas BB in the Scale section.

This tread is included in the Woodies' Listings.

Looking good!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=32
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=33

You say you have a plan so doesn't it show the prop and shaft? Pete

Thanks for the replies!

Woodybob - that's just what I'm looking for I was able to start framing out the hull. I've read all of the threads about the BB(& all the other "woodies"). there are some beautiful boats If it wouldn't be a lot of trouble, I could use the same part of the plan with a ruler or just a line with an inch or two marked off.



Norgale- nope, the plan I'm using just shows the buklheads & a general layout- it's really a crappy plan - but I think I can manage(with a little help)

I've had a chance to work on the BB. Most of the framing is now complete. I just need to add a few more stringers & I'll be ready for the balsa planking. This plan is really crappy, but thanks to Woodybob, I now have the dimensions I'll need _ Thanks again Woodybob!

I've now completed the bottom under planking.

Now the fun begins - the under planking of the sides & topside

It's at least starting to look like a Barrelback

Thanks for the help so far!!

cool...

WERLIC- I started watching your scratch build of a Chris Craft Barrel back with great interest. I always like to watch another modeler venture into designing and scratch building their own models. I like to offer help to anyone who I think is going to get in trouble with their build, so please under stand that this is not criticism of your build, but suggestions to help in your build.

The first thing I noticed is that your shear batten was scored for the bend into the stem post , which really is not necessary if you used the right material such as, 1/8” x 1/4” bass wood battens. Also I noticed that the batten had broken on a frame, leaving a sharp corner, which your really never want. You want a smooth transition for the sub planking and mahogany planking to lay down.

I also notice that you did not carry the shear batten to the transom, but decided to run a second batten to the transom from frame #4. This also could hinder the smooth flow of the shear line when view from the side of the hull.

The same problem is noted with the chine line batten on the hull, which does become much more critical in the performance of the hull, since this will be the planning surface that the hull will rise up from the water surface and ride on. Sharpe edges or bump outs as seen in your last photo of the planked bottom of the hull, will cause a great deal of drag when running in a straight line, and the hull will be very unruly when making a turn due to the chine digging in.

Greater care in the original frame work will make for a better performing and better looking finish hull. Once the hull is planked, the mistakes are forever built into the boat.

Frankg,

Thanks for all of your suggestions. I had actually started to correct most of them. I've gotten rid of the chine curve allready. The shear batten transition will get much balsa filler before planking as will most of the shear. Before I start the rest of the planking there will be plenty of glueing surface for the planking. There will be a smooth, even surface for the final planking to adhere to when I'm done..

One thing I like about working with balsa is the ability to correct mistakes rather easily after the fact. I've made plenty as the plan I started from is really crappy & I've had to revise on the fly.

I had previously looked at your build threads & I must say you are quite a craftsman!!

Thanks again for your comments & suggestions. I hope you will point out any other problems in future posts as I progress.

Erle

A few more pix. Most of the sub planking is done - just a little more. Then a lot of sanding

I've run out of balsa & CA. Need to get to the hobby store!

It's been a while since I last posted. Here are some pix of my progress so far.
The "planking" of the basswood exterior is finished. It now needs a final filling at the bow & then the final sanding befor staining etc. I'll be doing that as the weather gets a bit more conductive to outdoor sanding. Do you know how quickly sanding of this soft wood can clog a furnace filter? I do now!!

I've also been working on another project - a Pursuit FE. It's prefinished fberglass

Well, I've finally gotten' back to working on the BB It's coming along OK.

The pix show the 1st coat of stain & then the contrasting cover boards.

I think that the 1/8" "fillers" are too wide though. I think 1/16" or maybe 3/32" pin strips would be a more appropriate size - do you agree? The 1/8" shouild be about right for the bootstripe tho'. BTW the final pinstripe job will be a bit neater!!(more even & closer spacing) This was just a test with some 1/8" I had laying around!

I really will finish this thing someday

Looks a bit better with the 1/16 " strips & closer spacing.

Do you think I should go even closer? Current spacing is 3/8'".

Again just a test with cut down to 1/16" - thats why it's not too neat.

Thanks,

Erle