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Old Apr 18, 2011, 06:06 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
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hey chris would you be able to give me the specs (metric please)on part nos 4050a/0450a (o rings) my forks seam to have 4050a x2 (easy mastake) becose thay have been over tightend they have swelled and streched i carnt get the stiffness out of forks due to damage carnt get any real size
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 06:52 PM
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Post Falls, ID United States
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Can you take some photos and post them of your parts so I can see what your dealing with?
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 07:00 PM
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i will give it a go may take a little time never done it before new to computers thanks for help
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 07:13 PM
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i will give it a go may take a little time never done it before new to computers thanks for help
its the thickness of 4050a and 0450a i am after the id and od i can work out if that helps page 20 of manual
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 07:17 PM
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Well typically we dont give out those dimensions so if I can help you sort out the parts or suggest some tuning that should cure the problem and get you going again.
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 07:48 PM
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fork tubes(0460) are binding in the slider(0405b) the problem is rebound if part 0405a is left real lose only a few threads rebound is abit better down side forks leak or 0405a compleately backs off and lose all oil set up is for road racing iwould just buy the complet o ring set but i have trouble with the venom web site (real slow or locks up) and bruce is out of stock rather than wait weeks i hoped to go to my bearring shopbut if you have a good tuning tip i am happy to try it thanks mate
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 08:05 PM
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No worries, I call it blue printing the forks.

Take the upper spring perch and fine sand paper like 600 grit and hone the piston cylinder. Knock down the high spots and test fit it back inthe fork tube to check fit and smoothness. Your looking for a nice smooth feel and not a whole lot of play.

Do the same for the lower piston. Hone its outside edge and check its fit in the fork tube.

Next take the lower bushings, 3 of them, and make a dowl out of the sand paper and hone the inside of the bushings. Place them back on the fork shaft and see how they slide and hone as needed. All 3 per side so 6 parts in all. Also your just looking for better smoother and easier movement.

Next check the assembly stack for compression when you assemble all the cleaned parts back together for a check fit test. Lube the parts slightly. If you tighten the lower cap and the fork shaft binds there is too much compression on the o-rings. Take the plain flat bushings and hone them flat on glass and try to do it evenly just a little bit at a time. Its better if you can measure them first and then sand and measure one at a time. Your looking to decrease the compression of the o-rings but maintain the seal so dont go too far on the sanding.

Check fit them again but keep the parts clean and lubed to see whats going on. Once you have done this you can see a huge difference and the forks will respond quickly to the terrain and tuning them will be more accurate and easier too.

Let me know how it goes and if you have any bad parts from the factory then for sure lets get those changed out through our AU office CS dept.

Chris
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
No worries, I call it blue printing the forks.

Take the upper spring perch and fine sand paper like 600 grit and hone the piston cylinder. Knock down the high spots and test fit it back inthe fork tube to check fit and smoothness. Your looking for a nice smooth feel and not a whole lot of play.

Do the same for the lower piston. Hone its outside edge and check its fit in the fork tube.

Next take the lower bushings, 3 of them, and make a dowl out of the sand paper and hone the inside of the bushings. Place them back on the fork shaft and see how they slide and hone as needed. All 3 per side so 6 parts in all. Also your just looking for better smoother and easier movement.

Next check the assembly stack for compression when you assemble all the cleaned parts back together for a check fit test. Lube the parts slightly. If you tighten the lower cap and the fork shaft binds there is too much compression on the o-rings. Take the plain flat bushings and hone them flat on glass and try to do it evenly just a little bit at a time. Its better if you can measure them first and then sand and measure one at a time. Your looking to decrease the compression of the o-rings but maintain the seal so dont go too far on the sanding.

Check fit them again but keep the parts clean and lubed to see whats going on. Once you have done this you can see a huge difference and the forks will respond quickly to the terrain and tuning them will be more accurate and easier too.

Let me know how it goes and if you have any bad parts from the factory then for sure lets get those changed out through our AU office CS dept.

Chris
Nice I just had this problem last night.Ill 'blueprint' my forks tonite.Also my front sprocket keeps coming loose.Ive got the bits at work today. I was thinking drilling a hole halfway through the shaft the front sprocket sits on and using a longer grub screw so it sits in the hole.See how I go.Also Im going to seal the top cap of the rear shock cos It leaks .
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 08:40 PM
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ill give it a go (assembly stack over compressed my problem )thanks for the help
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 08:46 PM
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Nice I just had this problem last night.Ill 'blueprint' my forks tonite.Also my front sprocket keeps coming loose.Ive got the bits at work today. I was thinking drilling a hole halfway through the shaft the front sprocket sits on and using a longer grub screw so it sits in the hole.See how I go.Also Im going to seal the top cap of the rear shock cos It leaks .
my spocket did to i used a good locktite no worrys since dont drill a hole it will weekin if at all maybe notchit(small flat spot)
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 08:59 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
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Hey Chris, Here's my wish list for the VMX:

Steel pinion gears, 3 different weight gyro flywheels, (heavy for indoor, std wt. and light for SMR), a SHORT, FAT, WIDE 7.4v LIPO about 4000 mah, that is dedicated to the VMX's battery box to lower the CoG, A layshaft and front sprocket assembly with 2 set screws (or a drive pin set up for the front sprocket).
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 09:34 PM
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The sprocket set screw as with any other metal on metal contact needs to be clean of oil so the thread lock sets up well. Take them apart and degrease them and the apply TL and reassemble. I use Acetone to take away all the oils.
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 09:34 PM
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carnt belive my luck just spent 3 1/2 weeks waiting for my smr tryes and the rear one has a bit of the bead missing (small tear) i dont think she whants to go road racing
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Hey Chris, Here's my wish list for the VMX:

Steel pinion gears, 3 different weight gyro flywheels, (heavy for indoor, std wt. and light for SMR), a SHORT, FAT, WIDE 7.4v LIPO about 4000 mah, that is dedicated to the VMX's battery box to lower the CoG, A layshaft and front sprocket assembly with 2 set screws (or a drive pin set up for the front sprocket).

We have just shipped steel pinion gears 9T - 13T for the VMX so these are in stock now.
The Lipo would be possible but not anytime soon. You might try just a 1/8 scale saddle pack half and see if thats good enough.

The other details are in the works for a future update, no set screws, pin drive.
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by choook View Post
carnt belive my luck just spent 3 1/2 weeks waiting for my smr tryes and the rear one has a bit of the bead missing (small tear) i dont think she whants to go road racing
Really!?!
Send it back to us and we will exchange it. Sorry about that. We dont usually have any issues with those so Im surprised to see that.

Have you been in touch with the AU office? Ask to speak with Manuel and he should sort it out for you. The guys there are very good.
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