HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Feb 11, 2011, 06:58 AM
Registered User
Michigan, Tri City area
Joined Jun 2006
677 Posts
Chris. i think it is excellent you all have decided to use Metal gears in the gyro. this seem to be by far the most perticular quirk the bike is having. With all metal gears, t his should really minimize the crip deaths. Well Done Venom!!!


Just Knowing your making the steps needed to improve the out of box ability, is a step in the right direction, and leads me to believe that buying one now, wont equate to alot of down time fixing something that should be solid in the beginning.

i ll likely get one ordered up in the next week or so.

WTG guys.
Timmahh is offline Find More Posts by Timmahh
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Feb 11, 2011, 08:53 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
1,226 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
The 3rd bolt your adding there Dave will cause you to break the chassis on the next really hard front hit. That part, the stem, was designed to crumple and protect the chassis so take care. The original part actually had 4 bolts and tied into the tank body mount area but we found it was too rigid and could damage the chassis in a hard head on crash, like a curb. I tested 2, 3 and 4 bolts and redesigned the stem to handle a lot of abuse with its rubber bushings installed. We left the chassis bolt pattern in the mold in case of future developments.
Anyhow breaking the chassis requires a full bike rebuild so be careful when driving and jumping your VMX.

Chris
Welcome back to the Forum Chris! Thanks for the input on the steering stem bracket. Yes, another guy on this forum and I had a little discussion about the SAFETY VALVE aspect of the bracket and we agreed that is a good thing for the bike. I have only run mine on carpet in my basement, so i'm sure no one else is trying to run in such a small area as me right now. I line the walls with 1/4" luan plywood and some plastic folding tables to protect my walls from our rc vehicals, so yeah, hard hits occur! Top speed for the bike is probably 8 to 10 mph on this space. Anyway, back to the steering bracket.
Mine broke after several crashes, i.e. running into the wall and endo-ing after a wheelie. My bracket may never have broken, or so soon, if there was space between the bracket and the battery box front wall! As you can see by my ROUGH sketch what I am trying to say here. The bracket with the rubber bushings that are designed to absorb and cushion the impact of a colision, but cannot work because there is no room for the bracket to travel back into, turning the backet into a solid piece of plastic. I saw this "interferance fit" and removed the battery box front wall above and behind the bracket, giving the bracket room for the rubber bushings to do thier job, absorb. It's possible that the third bolt may cause the frame to break, but between the extra reinforcement and the new clearance behind the bracket nothing has broken in over 10 battery packs and many more of the same crashes that broke the first one in about 4 packs. Thanks for lookin'

CLICK ON THE IMAGES








CLICK ON THE IMAGES
TopDave is offline Find More Posts by TopDave
Last edited by TopDave; Feb 11, 2011 at 09:17 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 10:06 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
1,226 Posts
Small spaces

Chris,
Speaking of running at indoor race tracks, (previous post) I see that in the spare parts list that the fly wheel for the gyro is listed as "STANDARD". Does that mean you are going to offer a heavier -and/or- lighter fly wheel. Put me in for a heavier one because I need more stability for running on this small basement track and I'm sure for any indoor race track with real tight sections (especially dirt) it would be very nice to have the extra stabilty. The supermoto guys prolly would like a lighter one too. My Durtax 450's will come to a complete stop (look Ma, no hands!) for an instant and then restart--I miss that with the VMX.
TopDave is offline Find More Posts by TopDave
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 01:39 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
1,738 Posts
*cough* E-GYRO *cough*
JohnnyMc is offline Find More Posts by JohnnyMc
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 01:53 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
1,226 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
*cough* E-GYRO *cough*
Johnny, wonder what it would cost for the wheel and gyro from ARX, hmmmm. All tho' I'm not sure I like the swing arm "connector" set up they use. Plus we couldn't have the insert tire of the vmx the either.
TopDave is offline Find More Posts by TopDave
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 02:08 PM
Registered User
Italy, Lombardy, Campione
Joined Apr 2008
69 Posts
Received the bike yesterday,run it today for the first time. W O W !
Didn't have any problem yet,gyro spinned after a coupple of throttle hits and the wheel kept spinning after it brakes for a short ammount of time, it didn't locked but stopped smoothly. Is it right? I don't know how this gyro thing works but i've figured it was all fine so i did another coupple of packs.
A whole lot easier to drive than the GPV though.
ghiro is offline Find More Posts by ghiro
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 02:40 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
1,226 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghiro View Post
Received the bike yesterday,run it today for the first time. W O W !
Didn't have any problem yet,gyro spinned after a coupple of throttle hits and the wheel kept spinning after it brakes for a short ammount of time, it didn't locked but stopped smoothly. Is it right? I don't know how this gyro thing works but i've figured it was all fine so i did another coupple of packs.
A whole lot easier to drive than the GPV though.
If you spin up the back wheel andthen stop it withe brake, and it starts turning by itself with out throttle input, you have one of the binding gyros. Good luck ,Dave
TopDave is offline Find More Posts by TopDave
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 03:49 PM
Registered User
Italy, Lombardy, Campione
Joined Apr 2008
69 Posts
I'll give it a check. Thank's Dave
ghiro is offline Find More Posts by ghiro
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 07:43 PM
Registered User
Chicago
Joined Jun 2010
20 Posts
I finally got the adaptor for my venom 2s lipo and it's charging now!
The chain on my bike looks like it's hiting the plastic of the frame, on top where it goes into the sprocket.

I haven't hooked it up to the battery yet. When turning the back wheel manually, it makes a lot of noise... not really like grinding gears, I think it's the chain. Is this normal?

I'm kind of worried to run it! I guess either way I'll be rebuilding the gyro once the metal gears come in.

Also, how do you know if the slipper is to tight aside from poping a wheelie? I guess it'll be ok for now, as long as tonight's gyro test goes ok I'm going to find a parking lot tomorrow and there's still snow on the ground so I'm not really that worried about it right now. I figgure there's not enough traction to do any damage if it's to tight.
johnnyh66 is offline Find More Posts by johnnyh66
Last edited by johnnyh66; Feb 11, 2011 at 07:54 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 08:04 PM
never stop building
dragbikebam's Avatar
Memphis, TN USA
Joined Apr 2009
935 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyh66 View Post
I finally got the adaptor for my venom 2s lipo and it's charging now!
The chain on my bike looks like it's hiting the plastic of the frame, on top where it goes into the sprocket.

I haven't hooked it up to the battery yet. When turning the back wheel manually, it makes a lot of noise... not really like grinding gears, I think it's the chain. Is this normal?

I'm kind of worried to run it! I guess either way I'll be rebuilding the gyro once the metal gears come in.

Also, how do you know if the slipper is to tight?
The drive train is noisy and the chain is supposed to rub the swing arm. Loosen the slipper till you know its too loose and make small adjustments(1/4 turns) on your first run till it just barely will pop a wheelie or no wheelie at all is best. Don't be in a hurry to start acting like James Stewart or something. This bike requires small turning and very small throttle inputs..Heads up for all new RC dirt bikers, You can not go balls to the wall with this bike out of the box. I'm just saying you will brake something because this bike is very fast and the weight of the rear wheel does not stop when you hit something solid. It takes weeks of practice to drive an RC bike smoothly..I dont want to sound like a smart ass but I have already made the mistake of thinking i could master it in a few runs and have spent $80.00 on replacment parts already (damn trees..lol) I have only been driving RC road bikes for a couple years. KEEP THE SLIPPER LOOSE, DRIVE IT SLOW AND SMOOTH ... IT WILL NOT BREAK ANYTHING!!!
dragbikebam is offline Find More Posts by dragbikebam
Last edited by dragbikebam; Feb 11, 2011 at 11:23 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 08:16 PM
Registered User
Chicago
Joined Jun 2010
20 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragbikebam View Post
The drive train is noisy and the chain is supposed to rub the swing arm. Loosen the slipper till you know its too loose and make small adjustments(1/4 turns) on your first run till it just barely will pop a wheelie or no wheelie at all is best. Don't be in a hurry to start acting like James Stewart or something. This bike requires small turning and very small throttle inputs..Heads up for all new owners, You can not go balls to the wall with this bike out of the box. I'm just saying you will brake something because this bike is very fast and the weight of the rear wheel does not stop when you hit something solid. It takes weeks of practice to drive an RC bike smoothly..I dont want to sound like a smart ass but I have already made the mistake of thinking i could master it in a few runs and have spent $80.00 on replacment parts already and i have been driving RC road bikes for 3 years. KEEP THE SLIPPER LOOSE AND DRIVE IT SLOW AND SMOOTH AND IT WILL NOT BREAK ANYTHING!!!

Sorry, I wasn't clear enough. It's not the swing arm it's the verticle edge of the housing. The sides of the chain may be just barely touching the side of the housing.

I'll definetly take your advise w/the slipper, sounds like a safe method.
I'm really looking forward to running this bike. I bought a Ricky last year and always wanted more power out of it but I kinda missed the parts boat on that one.
johnnyh66 is offline Find More Posts by johnnyh66
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 08:35 PM
never stop building
dragbikebam's Avatar
Memphis, TN USA
Joined Apr 2009
935 Posts
yeah mine kinda rubs there too when static but under power the chain will be tight and strait through that area. I think you will love this bike if you want power, it has plenty almost more than enough if you ask me but thats not a bad thing...
dragbikebam is offline Find More Posts by dragbikebam
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 09:19 PM
Editor, RCCA
Guidoracer's Avatar
Joined Nov 2004
3,153 Posts
Yeah, don't worry about the chain dragging on the swingarm -- it needs to be a bit slack to run smoothly.

The VMX is one of the few RTRs where the stock motor doesn't have me wanting for more power. I'm really digging this 4800kV 550-can.
Guidoracer is offline Find More Posts by Guidoracer
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 09:29 PM
never stop building
dragbikebam's Avatar
Memphis, TN USA
Joined Apr 2009
935 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragbikebam View Post
yeah mine kinda rubs there too when static but under power the chain will be tight and strait through that area. I think you will love this bike if you want power, it has plenty almost more than enough if you ask me but thats not a bad thing...
I take that back, it may look like its rubbing the inside frame wall but if you take a flash light you can see that it does not rub its just very close thats all..I also have noticed that the drive train as a whole has become much smoother after 6 full runs..man i just love this bike i cant help it..whole new challange that i will never master but just get better everytime i use it..
dragbikebam is offline Find More Posts by dragbikebam
Last edited by dragbikebam; Feb 11, 2011 at 09:38 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 11, 2011, 09:47 PM
Registered User
Chicago
Joined Jun 2010
20 Posts
awww yeah baby!
so far so good, the slipper is definetly tight.
The gyro spools up w/o issue, spins freely and does not affect the wheel after braking.

It took some serious effort to get the battery plug through that little hole! I had to get a piece of wire and fish hook.
johnnyh66 is offline Find More Posts by johnnyh66
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion HoobyKing new dirt bike vs. venom vmx 450 amitgv1 Motorcycles 19 Oct 13, 2010 11:09 AM
Discussion Duratrax DX450 VS. Venom VMX 450 Butters Motorcycles 31 Mar 18, 2010 03:41 PM
Discussion VMX 1/4 Scale Dirt Bike Venom Media Venom 4 Mar 01, 2010 06:41 PM
Discussion Venom VMX 450 MX Bike! Mark Headling Motorcycles 2 Feb 09, 2010 11:44 AM
Discussion The Original 1/4 Scale RC nitro dirt bike from the 70's Magicd1 Motorcycles 6 Oct 02, 2006 02:06 AM