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Old Nov 29, 2012, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Hi Rellik, good the shortened bars worked out for you. Can't help with the steering sorry. Maybe try thicker damper oil as I don't think you can speed up the std servo. I use different servos to std as it is very lazy in the steering.
That's one of my next upgrades.

Servo
Wheelie bar
On and off switch on the gyro esc

Then she should be pretty solid
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 05:48 AM
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Australia, QLD, Burua
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Originally Posted by Rellik View Post
That's one of my next upgrades.

Servo
Wheelie bar
On and off switch on the gyro esc

Then she should be pretty solid
cool, definitely need that wheelie bar .
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 06:59 AM
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cool, definitely need that wheelie bar .
Yeah I keep ripping my body apart. Plus I want to be able to mash the throttle and not worry about the tail slamming down bending the bar then slingshoting the bike head over heals.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 09:40 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
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Thanks up on 1, just enough power to land perfectly
You have enough air time to make 2 or 3 attitude adjustments Evil!
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:23 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
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Originally Posted by Rellik View Post
I don't know if any one realized or not, but I asked if the gyro was suposed to come on without the Main ESC being on and I was told yes, we'll I accedently found that there is a little black jumper on the gyro esc that you can take off and soled a switch so you can turn it on and off individually my next upgrade.

I also tested out my new short bars out today and it makes a huge diff and still has no problem pulling itself back up, deff a must do to this bike

What is everyone's steering curve set at to get a faster rate out of the servo?
Yeah , the steering is real lazy. What I did was put 80wt in the steering damper. (like Cris suggested) I tried 50wt and was still lazy so I jumped up to 80wt and the bike pops right up. You prolly know not to let the servo over travel (EPA) so beware of that so ya won't hurt the servo.
I use a Spektrum Pro transmitter on the MM450, so the settings are different from the Venom radio I use on the VMX, but the same idea works on both transmitters. I cheated the stock servo into being faster by setting the steering EXPO to a minus (-) 41% (Spektrum) and (-) 30% on the Venom . Set the steering speed to max what ever your radio is. I'm very satisfied now and until the MM450 stock servo goes bad, I'll keep using it. Right now I run both my bikes indoors on very tight courses and need quick steering to get the bike stood back up fast so you can get on the gas quickly and so far these settings seem to work.
PS - Thanks for the tip for the switch on the gyro esc!
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Last edited by TopDave; Nov 29, 2012 at 10:30 AM.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:52 AM
RC Dirt Bike Action
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California central coast
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Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
You have enough air time to make 2 or 3 attitude adjustments Evil!
Thats because he turns into Blake Bagget when on that track.


You guys running round crash bars with egyro how short can I go on the bars?
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Yeah , the steering is real lazy. What I did was put 80wt in the steering damper. (like Cris suggested) I tried 50wt and was still lazy so I jumped up to 80wt and the bike pops right up. You prolly know not to let the servo over travel (EPA) so beware of that so ya won't hurt the servo.
I use a Spektrum Pro transmitter on the MM450, so the settings are different from the Venom radio I use on the VMX, but the same idea works on both transmitters. I cheated the stock servo into being faster by setting the steering EXPO to a minus (-) 41% (Spektrum) and (-) 30% on the Venom . Set the steering speed to max what ever your radio is. I'm very satisfied now and until the MM450 stock servo goes bad, I'll keep using it. Right now I run both my bikes indoors on very tight courses and need quick steering to get the bike stood back up fast so you can get on the gas quickly and so far these settings seem to work.
PS - Thanks for the tip for the switch on the gyro esc!
Yeah no problem, I accedently found that when I was working on it and seen it from the corner of my eye and thought it was a peice of something and just flicked it off not thinking, when I reassembled and tried to test everything the gyro esc would come on, and I looked at the esc and realized there was two pins and that peice was a jumper lol , then I took a switch and tested and realized it can be turned on and off with a switch, this is great for powering up your servos or doing something with the steering so you don't have to have the gyro humming in your gear like a Jet lol

Thank you for the tips I'm getting a high trq metal gear airtronics servo for the bike. And prob eventually an airtronics radio as it has just about every adjustment you could want. My XTM nitro buggy came with this radio and I loved it.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Thats because he turns into Blake Bagget when on that track.


You guys running round crash bars with egyro how short can I go on the bars?

You can go to where the foot pegs are just off the ground at full lean. Also want to make sure when you lay it on the bars both the front and back tire are still contacting the ground enough so that the front has enough to lift and the back has enough to push . I just cut mine Tuesday and tested it yesterday. I cut 3/4 of an inch off and that seems to be a sweet spot where it gives a lot more lean but still can jump back up with no problem

Every time I make a mod to this bike, I love it more and more. I don't think I'll ever touch another buggy or 4 wheel Rc again
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 01:14 PM
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I took the pegs off because at those lean angles the pegs will catch on things once suspension starts compressing and little bumps that come along that miss the wheels. Im going to have rubber bands keep the riders boots tight to the frame so that will minimize rubbing on ground.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 02:27 PM
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I took the pegs off because at those lean angles the pegs will catch on things once suspension starts compressing and little bumps that come along that miss the wheels. Im going to have rubber bands keep the riders boots tight to the frame so that will minimize rubbing on ground.
My pegs don't catch at all, I have them on there with no problems. Maybe I cut a little less then 3/4 inch but it was real close.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 03:17 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
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Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
Thats because he turns into Blake Bagget when on that track.


You guys running round crash bars with egyro how short can I go on the bars?
Length of the crash bars just got complicated for me. I just realized the shorter you go looking for lean angle, the higher the CG of the bike goes above the crash bars, taking weight off the tires while you are trying to stand the bike back up. I think we better look at some of the road racing bikes for a minute. Alot of those bikes are bending the bars up rather than shortening them to get the lean angles. That's keeping the weight of the bike below the contact point of the crash bars, which lets the bike tip back onto the tires for more traction while trying to stand back up. I found with the short bars, my VMX would not tip back onto the tires after a crash.
Right now Johnny, my bars are right at 3 3/4" (just short of the lean angle I want) measured from main frame that the rear crash bar mounts to, with the bars perpendicular to the frame of the bike. I'm guessing that between 3 3/4'' and 4" bars bent upwards to get the lean angle might be a good starting point to try. That's what I'm gonna try anyway.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 03:29 PM
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Length of the crash bars just got complicated for me. I just realized the shorter you go looking for lean angle, the higher the CG of the bike goes above the crash bars, taking weight off the tires while you are trying to stand the bike back up. I think we better look at some of the road racing bikes for a minute. Alot of those bikes are bending the bars up rather than shortening them to get the lean angles. That's keeping the weight of the bike below the contact point of the crash bars, which lets the bike tip back onto the tires for more traction while trying to stand back up. I found with the short bars, my VMX would not tip back onto the tires after a crash.
Right now Johnny, my bars are right at 3 3/4" (just short of the lean angle I want) measured from main frame that the rear crash bar mounts to, with the bars perpendicular to the frame of the bike. I'm guessing that between 3 3/4'' and 4" bars bent upwards to get the lean angle might be a good starting point to try. That's what I'm gonna try anyway.
That's a good India bending them up instead of cutting them. I have two more sets so ill try that. With mine cut 3/4 of an inch shorter I have no problem popping back up but every bike will perform different depending on settings and suspension and all
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 03:30 PM
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You have enough air time to make 2 or 3 attitude adjustments Evil!
Cool jump, worked out just right this time .
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Length of the crash bars just got complicated for me. I just realized the shorter you go looking for lean angle, the higher the CG of the bike goes above the crash bars, taking weight off the tires while you are trying to stand the bike back up. I think we better look at some of the road racing bikes for a minute. Alot of those bikes are bending the bars up rather than shortening them to get the lean angles. That's keeping the weight of the bike below the contact point of the crash bars, which lets the bike tip back onto the tires for more traction while trying to stand back up. I found with the short bars, my VMX would not tip back onto the tires after a crash.
Right now Johnny, my bars are right at 3 3/4" (just short of the lean angle I want) measured from main frame that the rear crash bar mounts to, with the bars perpendicular to the frame of the bike. I'm guessing that between 3 3/4'' and 4" bars bent upwards to get the lean angle might be a good starting point to try. That's what I'm gonna try anyway.
Sorry Dave, didn't realise the bike would have a problem. I use slightly shorter ( maybe 1/2 an inch rounded bars bent up like Dave suggested. I don't use foot pegs and Deegans feet drag on the ground while cornering.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 03:39 PM
If u aint 1st your last
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Mar 2010
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I am going to use 5mm nylon rod for my crash bars.

I shortened that spacer in the wheel & it didn't do anything it still moves side to side it is the wheel shell moving side to side on the bearings i don't know why they can't get there dimensions right i am just going to run it the way it is.
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