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Old Nov 15, 2012, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Hi Nachi, I turn the radio on, set the switch to aux. Go to the brake mix ( no 11 in the menu ) set it to 80% and turn it on. Next go to the end points set up the top at 120%, then start the low end at 0. You should have your calliper cable set up right with minimal movement before engagement. Bring up the low end until the brake just starts to grab and back it off until the wheel spins with no resistance. You use this adjustment as the pads wear to keep the pads close to the disk. That's it all set up. If you want more or less brake adjust it with the brake mix %. Just watch going too high as stalling the servo too much can burn it out. In saying that I have one of mine set at 110% and haven't had it fail.
Chris
Are you still using the supplied servo or have you fitted one with higher torque ? .
If yes which one ?.
Thanks Jim
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimob23 View Post
Chris
Are you still using the supplied servo or have you fitted one with higher torque ? .
If yes which one ?.
Thanks Jim
Hi Jim, yea I'm using the std one that comes with it. You could fit a higher torque one, make sure its metal geared.
I use buggy pads which give more bite In one bike and with that bike I have the mix set at 60% so no need for more servo torque.
Oh I also use the hole in the servo horn nearest to the centre, this gives more torque also.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 06:10 AM
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This is how I set up my brake. The inner cable is pushbike brake or gear change cable with a buggy antenna tube outer.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...ach&p=23273912
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 06:16 AM
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Hope this works.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 11:22 AM
RC Dirt Bike Action
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California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Hi Nachi, I turn the radio on, set the switch to aux. Go to the brake mix ( no 11 in the menu ) set it to 80% and turn it on. Next go to the end points set up the top at 120%, then start the low end at 0. You should have your calliper cable set up right with minimal movement before engagement. Bring up the low end until the brake just starts to grab and back it off until the wheel spins with no resistance. You use this adjustment as the pads wear to keep the pads close to the disk. That's it all set up. If you want more or less brake adjust it with the brake mix %. Just watch going too high as stalling the servo too much can burn it out. In saying that I have one of mine set at 110% and haven't had it fail.
When your talking about the end points, your talking about the EPA menu option and the values under the aux column right?

I know you've mentioned it before but the img of your brake has something different holding the cable to servo horn, what is that again?

Since on the subject of braking Chris, have you experimented with the ABS braking menu. I want to try messing with that sometime.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 03:32 PM
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When your talking about the end points, your talking about the EPA menu option and the values under the aux column right?

I know you've mentioned it before but the img of your brake has something different holding the cable to servo horn, what is that again?

Since on the subject of braking Chris, have you experimented with the ABS braking menu. I want to try messing with that sometime.
Yea that's the EPA on channel 3. I use stoppers from a gas buggy throttle and brake linkages. I don't mess with the ABS as I want to be able to slide the bike consistently under brakes so set my brakes so they slow but not quite lock. This also helps settle the rear wheel. Once you start turning the bike and braking you can drift the rear into the corner still.
You have to drill out the calliper red alloy pad actuator slightly to fit the bike cable. I use a jet drill for carby jets on real cars. A shock piston hole drill would be about the right size.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 09:27 PM
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Here you go Rellik. You might want to calm the brake down also depending on what surface you are running on. On slippery dirt I've got mine set on 95% to stop locking.
Hey thanx a lot. My kit should be here tomorrow
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 11:20 PM
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Hey thanx a lot. My kit should be here tomorrow
No worries Rellik have fun .
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 08:10 AM
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Just an advance warning to anyone in the UK ordering the E Gyro conversion ditectly from Atomik
Their delivery was 100% with the goods being delivered via FedEx about 5 working days after placing order .
About 10 days after delivery expect an invoice from FedEx for 28.58 made up in 18.08 in VAT and 10.50 charges from FedEx
Must add I gave up trying to get an answer from the desginated local agent ,CML, if they were going to be in the position to supply let alone a pricing structure but Atomik were tops .
Its only money and can't take it with you I suppose

Cheers Jim
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Hi Jim, yea I'm using the std one that comes with it. You could fit a higher torque one, make sure its metal geared.
I use buggy pads which give more bite In one bike and with that bike I have the mix set at 60% so no need for more servo torque.
Oh I also use the hole in the servo horn nearest to the centre, this gives more torque also.
Thanks for that and at the risk of sounding like a numpty have a few other areas I need to clarify .
Have been playing around with settings etc for a while and while not looking for a locking of front wheel I still feel it is not perfoming 100%

I purchased the bike with the brake installed but the cable section missing .
Following a suggestion from a forum question tried the cycle cable but seemed to find it was sticking in places .
Resorted to using some thin stainless fishing leader wire in the antenna tubing and it appears to be doing the job
.No indication of the inner giving at all .
I presume you are still using the original Venom Tx with the brake servo working off the AUX channel .
The sliding switch has two positions being Off and AUX where I get servo movement (via the trigger ) in both positions .
My concern is I have set everything up in the AUX position but if in error the slide switch gets moverd to the Off position the servo tries to move to an entirely different idle position so either moves anti cllockwise and jams or clockwise and stalls on the cable
.I have put a small spacer in the slide swith to prevent this occuring but is this a standard issue or am I doing something wrong .
Despite the cable set up being very free I felt it was not getting sufficent 'pull' and put this down to either very limited servo movement or the servo not having sufficent torque to pull up the final few degrees .
Fitted another servo (steel gears) of approx 2x torque to the Venom supplied one where it made a small differance but still feel it prehaps needs more movement compared to actual torque .
Will try your suggested settings this weekend where I have the feeling I have already something similar in the past but will go back to basics and start over again .
You made mention of buggy pads and am I right in you are using their friction material fixed to the original back plates or the entire set up just modified to suit the venom carrier .
Final one is after fitting the E Gyro did you find it has made a noticable differance to the rear braking effect of not ?
Hopefully there may be a light at the end of my current brake tunnell and not another freight train coming the other way .

Cheers Jim
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 06:40 PM
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Thanks for that and at the risk of sounding like a numpty have a few other areas I need to clarify .
Have been playing around with settings etc for a while and while not looking for a locking of front wheel I still feel it is not perfoming 100%

I purchased the bike with the brake installed but the cable section missing .
Following a suggestion from a forum question tried the cycle cable but seemed to find it was sticking in places .
Resorted to using some thin stainless fishing leader wire in the antenna tubing and it appears to be doing the job
.No indication of the inner giving at all .
I presume you are still using the original Venom Tx with the brake servo working off the AUX channel .
The sliding switch has two positions being Off and AUX where I get servo movement (via the trigger ) in both positions .
My concern is I have set everything up in the AUX position but if in error the slide switch gets moverd to the Off position the servo tries to move to an entirely different idle position so either moves anti cllockwise and jams or clockwise and stalls on the cable
.I have put a small spacer in the slide swith to prevent this occuring but is this a standard issue or am I doing something wrong .
Despite the cable set up being very free I felt it was not getting sufficent 'pull' and put this down to either very limited servo movement or the servo not having sufficent torque to pull up the final few degrees .
Fitted another servo (steel gears) of approx 2x torque to the Venom supplied one where it made a small differance but still feel it prehaps needs more movement compared to actual torque .
Will try your suggested settings this weekend where I have the feeling I have already something similar in the past but will go back to basics and start over again .
You made mention of buggy pads and am I right in you are using their friction material fixed to the original back plates or the entire set up just modified to suit the venom carrier .
Final one is after fitting the E Gyro did you find it has made a noticable differance to the rear braking effect of not ?
Hopefully there may be a light at the end of my current brake tunnell and not another freight train coming the other way .

Cheers Jim
As long as your outer is solid ( not compressing ) your inner should be good. I just have plenty of cable floating around.
I am using all std radio gear. If you move that aux switch it will cause the servo to do what you are describing.
In regards to the amount of travel the max amount will be with it set at 120% on the brake mix. Also 120% on the EPA. I don't think the low end affects the travel but may stand corrected. I try to set that at as low as possible and adjust the cable up close. Make the final adjustment and as the pads wear with the low end. Make sure the calliper pads float free and can move easily, if the calliper isn't working well it can give bad braking. The buggy pads I use are just contact adhesive glued to the plates, they don't even use the holes and never come off. Depending on how thick the pads are you can either grind down a little pad or cut the plastic backing plate off and use washers on the slide bolts to allow enough room for the disk to move freely. Make sure to mount the cable close to the centre of the servo. This will give more leverage although less movement but if all is set up you don't need much movement. You want the front brakes to start applying as soon as you start to touch the brakes.
In regards to braking comparing the two gyros the e gyro obviously has better braking as the mechanical one relied on braking to disengage the clutch. So even with the 4200 motor I run my EPA adjustment at 95 % for the brakes to reduce locking on dirt. On grass you might want full brakes. The light is there Jim and it is bright and no it isn't a train lol. Hope this is some help.

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Old Nov 16, 2012, 06:46 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
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TURNIGY TRACK STAR ESC for the Venom450

Thanks Chris, for finding this ESC!
Due to excellent service from Hobby King and USPS I got a Turnigy Track Star 120 amp ESC in only 3 days! A 120 amp FOR 53 BUCKS. My Venom 80 amp esc was acting goofy, intermittent hesitation, brakes locking up for no reason, iffy steering response prolly due to low voltage(?). The throttle glitches (sticking wide open) was putting the bikes health in danger, so I decided to change out the ESC before a major wreck occured. I went with the Track Star mainly because of price, but I has most of the same features of the high dollar units but at less than half the price,
So I soldered it in , programmed the reverse out of it (I should mention here that you can program it without a programming card ($7.00 and change), which I was sad to see they had no stock at the USA warehouse so I had to order it from AUS.) The programming chimes/lites didn't match up to the instructions exactly, but I managed to get reverse turned off finally.The card makes programming a piece o' cake I have read. Now after the first run with it I see the low voltage cut off is wrong so I need to jump back into the "chimes and lights" again.
Now the good part: Ran for 15 solid minutes with no throttle hesitation, brake issues, or steering problems - so far. Motor and battery were quite warm (expected), but ESC was cool. I may try removing the fan to see how warm it gets without it. The heat sink/fan sit about 4mm's higher that the stocker too.
The Trac Star is 4/5mm's longer ( but actually has a smaller footprint due to the capacitors are integral to the main unit ) than the stocker so it did not fit in the same low spot on the chassis that I had the old one on till I removed about 3 mm's out of the back side of the left radiator guard.
Thumb's up so far.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 07:37 PM
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Thanks Chris, for finding this ESC!
Due to excellent service from Hobby King and USPS I got a Turnigy Track Star 120 amp ESC in only 3 days! A 120 amp FOR 53 BUCKS. My Venom 80 amp esc was acting goofy, intermittent hesitation, brakes locking up for no reason, iffy steering response prolly due to low voltage(?). The throttle glitches (sticking wide open) was putting the bikes health in danger, so I decided to change out the ESC before a major wreck occured. I went with the Track Star mainly because of price, but I has most of the same features of the high dollar units but at less than half the price,
So I soldered it in , programmed the reverse out of it (I should mention here that you can program it without a programming card ($7.00 and change), which I was sad to see they had no stock at the USA warehouse so I had to order it from AUS.) The programming chimes/lites didn't match up to the instructions exactly, but I managed to get reverse turned off finally.The card makes programming a piece o' cake I have read. Now after the first run with it I see the low voltage cut off is wrong so I need to jump back into the "chimes and lights" again.
Now the good part: Ran for 15 solid minutes with no throttle hesitation, brake issues, or steering problems - so far. Motor and battery were quite warm (expected), but ESC was cool. I may try removing the fan to see how warm it gets without it. The heat sink/fan sit about 4mm's higher that the stocker too.
The Trac Star is 4/5mm's longer ( but actually has a smaller footprint due to the capacitors are integral to the main unit ) than the stocker so it did not fit in the same low spot on the chassis that I had the old one on till I removed about 3 mm's out of the back side of the left radiator guard.
Thumb's up so far.
Cool Dave I may have to get some help off you with the chimes and lights as following those directions isn't my strong point lol especially if they aren't correct. Mine still hasn't turned up yet .
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 05:37 PM
If u aint 1st your last
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Hey Chris did you have to mod the motor plate at all to fit the tenshock? also what am i doing wrong when i put the bike together my chain is tight & the wheel is all the way forward, i have the spacers so the longer side is facing the front am i supposed to turn them around or something? it don't tell me in the manual about chain adjustment.
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 06:54 PM
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Hey Chris did you have to mod the motor plate at all to fit the tenshock? also what am i doing wrong when i put the bike together my chain is tight & the wheel is all the way forward, i have the spacers so the longer side is facing the front am i supposed to turn them around or something? it don't tell me in the manual about chain adjustment.
Hey TJ I didn't have to mod the plate at all to fit the motor, just bolts straight in. If you use a 13t pinion you might want to just open the hole up slightly as it can rub. I didn't bother. Are you using the A or B blocks and is the chain new. It is slightly tight when new using the plastic chain blocks. It's tighter I think if you use the B blocks. Go for the A blocks. Usually loosens up within a run or two. Atomik or Venom have alloy chain adjusters which really are needed. You could get them off RedStar Hobbies I think locally. Sorry I didn't mention it. I presumed the bike you got would have them as he had other options. There is a pic of my bike on the MM thread you can see them.
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