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Old Nov 12, 2012, 02:15 AM
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Here's another little tip for those that run in less than ideal conditions. To keep a lot of muck out of the motor and front sprocket and shock area I fit a mud flap of sorts. Keeps it much cleaner.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Couple more questions TJ, was the gearing stock at the moment and had you fitted the big bore? Either way the bike looked like it was handling sweet and going well. Even the forks looked to be working well for so new.
Like your mud flap, it is fully stock mate it does go pretty good the arx only has a little more top speed but the mm has more of an instant punch down low i am going to fit the tenshock in my vmx & sell him the 4800 motor, i left the fork caps loose just so he could have a couple of runs with it before i pull it apart & service the forks & fit the big bore, he some how cons me to work on his stuff as well which makes it hard sometimes when i am trying to do so many of my own things but if it gives me someone to ride with then it's worth it.
You will have a blast when your mate gets his running i am looking forward to the fun we are going to have when i get my vmx up & running as well it can't happen fast enough
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 04:54 PM
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Like your mud flap, it is fully stock mate it does go pretty good the arx only has a little more top speed but the mm has more of an instant punch down low i am going to fit the tenshock in my vmx & sell him the 4800 motor, i left the fork caps loose just so he could have a couple of runs with it before i pull it apart & service the forks & fit the big bore, he some how cons me to work on his stuff as well which makes it hard sometimes when i am trying to do so many of my own things but if it gives me someone to ride with then it's worth it.
You will have a blast when your mate gets his running i am looking forward to the fun we are going to have when i get my vmx up & running as well it can't happen fast enough
Yea it's funny how you get to work on other people's stuff , once my mates new flywheel arrives I get to sort out his bike which hasn't run for as long as Johns at least lol. Oh well like you say it gives you someone to bash with and if you didn't do the work they wouldn't be able to so they wouldn't be running . Looking forward to some vids of you and you mate bashing.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 06:46 PM
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That's the truth, the last car that gets worked on is the technicians , I know this bc I am a tech at Toyota and my car has to be falling apart before I can work on it lol.

On a good note, My E-gyro is on its way, should be here Friday. Is there any must do or don't do's when fitting my vmx with the kit?
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 07:37 PM
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That's the truth, the last car that gets worked on is the technicians , I know this bc I am a tech at Toyota and my car has to be falling apart before I can work on it lol.

On a good note, My E-gyro is on its way, should be here Friday. Is there any must do or don't do's when fitting my vmx with the kit?
Exactly, like the plumbers roof lol. Cool your gyro is on its way. It's an easy fit, I put a washer each side of the axle to stop the nuts bottoming but I also use a 5.3 mm internal spacer to reduce side slop. You have to pull the wheel apart to do this so maybe on the first tyre change. It's not vital but helps. I clean and lube the bearings with Tac 2 on the first tyre change also. Bolt it in and go have fun. Also make sure you have ec3 plugs on your speedo to suit the adaptor.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 08:49 PM
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What is the spedo?
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 09:46 PM
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What is the spedo?
The plugs on your speed control Rellik. The gyro comes with a adaptor harness to suit but its made for the original plugs that come on the controller. If you still have them on your ok. If you've changed to deans or whatever you'll need to do some soldering.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 12:04 PM
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Oh ok I haven't changed the ESC plug so I'm good, looks like I'm all plug and play or at least lets hope so lol. I guess I'll have to completely re do my throttle curves lol
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 11:44 PM
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Oh ok I haven't changed the ESC plug so I'm good, looks like I'm all plug and play or at least lets hope so lol. I guess I'll have to completely re do my throttle curves lol
Yea Dave has some advice on what to do to calm the motor down but like you once said Rellik, you just love pulling wheelies lol. You'll be able to pull some now that's for sure.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 07:14 PM
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Question on front brake setup

Hi guys! I have the front brake servo on my vmx plugged into the 3rd channel but i'm having a headache trying to do the settings on the Tx. Any advice on the Tx settings u guys use? Thanks.
Regards,
Nachi
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 09:19 PM
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Yea Dave has some advice on what to do to calm the motor down but like you once said Rellik, you just love pulling wheelies lol. You'll be able to pull some now that's for sure.
Pulling wheelies is my favorite thing to do!! I will make a wheelie bar that will keep the bike steady while in a wheelie. I have something up my sleeve

Is there a link for Dave's advice on curves ?
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:05 PM
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Thought I should post this here as well as the MM450 Egyro section just for the info:
Got the conversion to E-Gyro done on the ol' VMX'r! Along with the Big Bore shock converted and installed and about 5 battery packs worth of re-tuning the chassis/radio setups to get the bike to go around my basement SX track as good as the MM450!
One of the biggest issues was the 4800 motor. Holy Horse Power Batman! Think jumping off a CR125 Honda onto a CR250 for the first time! I tried changing the throttle curve -did not like that- so I just dialed the thr. EPA back to 88%- Still faster than the MM450 motor but manageable. The steering was inconsistant and unstable at low speeds so I started looking for a reason for it. I had jumped straight to 80 wt oil in the steering damper so I suspected that , but I found 4 things that combined prolly cause it. First the right side front wheel bearing adapter (hex shaped) was a vvery loose fit in the wheel letting it wobble to and fro. shimmed that with some vinyl sheeting I found in my junk box. 2) found the steering damper's fork mount ball stud had loosened and was sloppy 3) The old HiTech buggie servo has some slop in the gear set -gonna live with that for a while. 4) The bike still wasn't as stable as the MM450, so I set the 2 bikes next to each othe and noticed the rear ride hights were different. the MM450 was lower in the rear, giving the bike a little more fork rake, so I lowered the VMX to match and now the bikes handle very simlar to each other. Happy now!
Here you go Rellik. You might want to calm the brake down also depending on what surface you are running on. On slippery dirt I've got mine set on 95% to stop locking.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Nachiappan View Post
Hi guys! I have the front brake servo on my vmx plugged into the 3rd channel but i'm having a headache trying to do the settings on the Tx. Any advice on the Tx settings u guys use? Thanks.
Regards,
Nachi
Hi Nachi, I turn the radio on, set the switch to aux. Go to the brake mix ( no 11 in the menu ) set it to 80% and turn it on. Next go to the end points set up the top at 120%, then start the low end at 0. You should have your calliper cable set up right with minimal movement before engagement. Bring up the low end until the brake just starts to grab and back it off until the wheel spins with no resistance. You use this adjustment as the pads wear to keep the pads close to the disk. That's it all set up. If you want more or less brake adjust it with the brake mix %. Just watch going too high as stalling the servo too much can burn it out. In saying that I have one of mine set at 110% and haven't had it fail.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 01:48 AM
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Front Brake Setup

Quote:
Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Hi Nachi, I turn the radio on, set the switch to aux. Go to the brake mix ( no 11 in the menu ) set it to 80% and turn it on. Next go to the end points set up the top at 120%, then start the low end at 0. You should have your calliper cable set up right with minimal movement before engagement. Bring up the low end until the brake just starts to grab and back it off until the wheel spins with no resistance. You use this adjustment as the pads wear to keep the pads close to the disk. That's it all set up. If you want more or less brake adjust it with the brake mix %. Just watch going too high as stalling the servo too much can burn it out. In saying that I have one of mine set at 110% and haven't had it fail.
Hi Chris. Thanks for the front brake setup. I try it out and see how it goes.
Regards,
Nachi
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 02:43 AM
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Hi Chris. Thanks for the front brake setup. I try it out and see how it goes.
Regards,
Nachi
No worries Nachi, let me know if you have any dramas.
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