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Old Nov 10, 2012, 11:01 PM
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Can only do one at a time sorry.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/newat...anageattach&p=
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Rellik View Post
Great explanation
Not quite in the same league as an Edi Winter piece but it explains what I have learned this year with the M5 MX with a nylon bar, wheeled bar and piano wire bar.

For me, the plain bar wins as it causes me less complications and works on the track I run at. YMMV.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:43 AM
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This video highlights all the symptoms I have come across.

Atomik MM450 (3 min 33 sec)
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:42 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
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E-Gyro conversion (ALERT)

Atomik got the warrenty gyro parts to me in less than 48 hours!! How's that for service boys! THANK YOU ATOMIK. Got the bike repaired and is working great again.
While I had the wheel apart I reassmbled the wheel/gyro assemblywithout the tire on just to check things out. What I found was about .010/" or more side to side clearance in the wheel bearing pockets letting the wheel slop back and forth on the axle. Guess what prolly caused the insulation to chafe off the gyro wires coming out of the wheel, letting the ESC to short out. The reason I looked at this was because when I took the wheel apart the teflon washer between the stator and the RH wheel half was worn thru from being pinched between the stator windings and the inside of the wheel. The windings also showed rub marks from contacting the wheel. This side play is what allows the wheel to make contact with the stator. (the correct side play keeps the stator centered in the wheel enough to prevent the rubbing)

The cause of this side play is a stack-up of dimentions of the all the gyro/wheel assembly parts I would "assume" .
THE SIMPLE FIX> if you have a ton of side play (check with the wheel in the swing arm with the axle nuts tight, see if the wheel slides side to side) You will see the bearings slide out of the wheel bearing pockets, you may need to do THIS:
There is a cone shaped RED aluminum spacer fitted between the left side wheel bearing and the left side end of the stator hub. this spacer needs to be made shorter (side to side) on the small end by an amount less than the slop in the bearing pockets.
I say 'less" because you NEED SOME SIDEPLAY! Make sure you remove a small amount of material at a time til you are happy with the sideplay.

IMPORTANT If you have a bunch of runs on you bike with no issues, DISREGARD THE LAST COUPLE OF PARAGRAPHS, Hope this helps somebody! LOL
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Last edited by TopDave; Nov 11, 2012 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:59 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
1,193 Posts
Super moto slicks

Since I had the rear wheel apart anyway, I installed the slick on the rear to try it out on my basement carpeted SX track. The slick works great on the carpet! I'm so happy not to be "shredding" my knobbies any more!! On goes the front slick, then over to Larry's indoor stadium offroad track to see if the slicks work on the "rubber mat" as well as the carpet!!
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Atomik got the warrenty gyro parts to me in less than 48 hours!! How's that for service boys! THANK YOU ATOMIK. Got the bike repaired and is working great again.
While I had the wheel apart I reassmbled the wheel/gyro assemblywithout the tire on just to check things out. What I found was about .010/" or more side to side clearance in the wheel bearing pockets letting the wheel slop back and forth on the axle. Guess what prolly caused the insulation to chafe off the gyro wires coming out of the wheel, letting the ESC to short out. The reason I looked at this was because when I took the wheel apart the teflon washer between the stator and the RH wheel half was worn thru from being pinched between the stator windings and the inside of the wheel. The windings also showed rub marks from contacting the wheel. This side play is what allows the wheel to make contact with the stator. (the correct side play keeps the stator centered in the wheel enough to prevent the rubbing)

The cause of this side play is a stack-up of dimentions of the all the gyro/wheel assembly parts I would "assume" .
THE SIMPLE FIX> if you have a ton of side play (check with the wheel in the swing arm with the axle nuts tight, see if the wheel slides side to side) You will see the bearings slide out of the wheel bearing pockets, you may need to do THIS:
There is a cone shaped RED aluminum spacer fitted between the left side wheel bearing and the left side end of the stator hub. this spacer needs to be made shorter (side to side) on the small end by an amount less than the slop in the bearing pockets.
I say 'less" because you NEED SOME SIDEPLAY! Make sure you remove a small amount of material at a time til you are happy with the sideplay.

IMPORTANT If you have a bunch of runs on you bike with no issues, DISREGARD THE LAST COUPLE OF PARAGRAPHS, Hope this helps somebody! LOL
5.3 mm is the measurement I end up using for the spacer Dave. That's 0.7mm less.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Since I had the rear wheel apart anyway, I installed the slick on the rear to try it out on my basement carpeted SX track. The slick works great on the carpet! I'm so happy not to be "shredding" my knobbies any more!! On goes the front slick, then over to Larry's indoor stadium offroad track to see if the slicks work on the "rubber mat" as well as the carpet!!
good stuff Dave. I'm sure they'll work really good , have fun. Got out for a real ride on the weekend.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonathan Bradbury View Post
This video highlights all the symptoms I have come across.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cMOB...ature=g-high-u
Hey TJ, looks like your mate was having a blast lol.
Maybe you can post a pic or two of your wheelie bar idea for others to look at, thanks.
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Last edited by chktm; Nov 11, 2012 at 04:41 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 05:09 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
good stuff Dave. I'm sure they'll work really good , have fun. Got out for a real ride on the weekend.
Yeah Chris, me too! Took my 450SX KTM out for the afternoon with my buddy Bill for some moto practice. Beautiful late fall day here with almost record temps,
68*F and sunny, so we got out for maybe the last ride before winter arrives!
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Yeah Chris, me too! Took my 450SX KTM out for the afternoon with my buddy Bill for some moto practice. Beautiful late fall day here with almost record temps,
68*F and sunny, so we got out for maybe the last ride before winter arrives!
Great Dave, I'm still old school 250SX 2 banger, just love that 2 stroke sound smell and power band, just can't hang on as long as I used to lol.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 06:16 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
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Waterford, Michigan
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Great Dave, I'm still old school 250SX 2 banger, just love that 2 stroke sound smell and power band, just can't hang on as long as I used to lol.
I'm going back to the 250sx 2 stroke for my next bike too. Way lighter and way simpler to fix! Both my vintage racers are 2 strokes. I fear the day the 450 blows up, lol. It's got over a hundred and ten hours on it now! About double what you'll get out of a Japanese 450 before rebuild.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
I'm going back to the 250sx 2 stroke for my next bike too. Way lighter and way simpler to fix! Both my vintage racers are 2 strokes. I fear the day the 450 blows up, lol. It's got over a hundred and ten hours on it now! About double what you'll get out of a Japanese 450 before rebuild.
Yea gotta love the 2 stroke Dave, low maintenance starts first kick and exciting to ride . Have thought about four strokes as I get older but just can't change .
By the way Dave what are your VMX bikes?
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Hey TJ, looks like your mate was having a blast lol.
Maybe you can post a pic or two of your wheelie bar idea for others to look at, thanks.
Yeah my mate loves it it was only the second pack he had run but he thinks it's the best thing ever i took the arx with me as well but i had a rear shock problem i set up the big bore using the vmx spring like you do for the vmx/mm & using the arx shock end to mount it in the arx & it felt soft on the bench but when i got to the park & fitted the rider it bottomed out & would not come back up it needs a way heavier spring like the stock arx spring but it won't fit on the big bore so i ended up being camera man, i put the arx shock back on it & we went down the park today for a run together we mainly ran on the grass as my rear tyre is bald but it was great just to have another bike to run with i will post some vid of them both running when i get a chance.

My e-gyro arrived today i can't believe how quick it got here so i am keen to get started on that i only need pinions did you end up getting your pinions for the tenshock from your LHS?

This is what i did for wheelie bars i just cut a piece of sheet metal that sits on top off the bar & just spot weld it to the bar in four corners so it gives something to mount plastic arms too for the wheel, i used hpi savage truck upper arms & an alloy wheel with rubber tyre like i used on my arx as i had them laying around but it has worked great so far my mate has not got a mark on his rear fender & he has done about a hundred wheelies he is still learning the meaning of throttle control lol
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Throttlejunkie View Post
Yeah my mate loves it it was only the second pack he had run but he thinks it's the best thing ever i took the arx with me as well but i had a rear shock problem i set up the big bore using the vmx spring like you do for the vmx/mm & using the arx shock end to mount it in the arx & it felt soft on the bench but when i got to the park & fitted the rider it bottomed out & would not come back up it needs a way heavier spring like the stock arx spring but it won't fit on the big bore so i ended up being camera man, i put the arx shock back on it & we went down the park today for a run together we mainly ran on the grass as my rear tyre is bald but it was great just to have another bike to run with i will post some vid of them both running when i get a chance.

My e-gyro arrived today i can't believe how quick it got here so i am keen to get started on that i only need pinions did you end up getting your pinions for the tenshock from your LHS?

This is what i did for wheelie bars i just cut a piece of sheet metal that sits on top off the bar & just spot weld it to the bar in four corners so it gives something to mount plastic arms too for the wheel, i used hpi savage truck upper arms & an alloy wheel with rubber tyre like i used on my arx as i had them laying around but it has worked great so far my mate has not got a mark on his rear fender & he has done about a hundred wheelies he is still learning the meaning of throttle control lol
Yea it's good fun with someone else to bash with. My mate should have his up and going soon hopefully. Great you gyro turned up, I got the 13 from the LHS, not sure if they had any other 13s but I know they had a 12 at least. That wheelie bar looks cool and does its job really well. The stock motor pokes it along pretty well.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 01:06 AM
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Couple more questions TJ, was the gearing stock at the moment and had you fitted the big bore? Either way the bike looked like it was handling sweet and going well. Even the forks looked to be working well for so new.
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