TopDave
You beat me to it as my son isget involved in 1:1 MX on a KTM where had a look in the BIG
'Dad paid for the spares' BOX and found a warped clutch plate where there is sufficent friction material left so will be giving that a go .Failing that the suggested gasket material is the next path or have a chat with the 1/5 electric touring car lads .
I have had a quick look at the () washer set up you are mentioning where in my assembly there are the 2 x grooved backing washers for the thrust bearing assembly and then a strong single coil spring followed by a 6 mm nyloc style nut .
The manual shows the 'flat washers as just 6mm but I can see in an adjacent exploded dia part 10101 they do look domed .
Are these a thin spring style locking washer as it would appear I could have yet another 'mod' by the previous owner that needs attention .
I have yet to run the bike but the slipper did appear to be either solid but when backed off a fraction there would have been no drive available where this could explain why
TopDave suggested fitting another pair of the cone washer so do I presume they would have to be ordered as a Venom part or is there another term other than dome washer ?
Cheers

Originally Posted by Jimob23

JohnnyMac.
Thanks for the response and I could recall seeing it in the past but could not find it and yes should have done a search
Must say madbadger does appear to have got a Monday morning bike as I followed a few of his entries with the multitude of things breaking or going wrong .
It did remind me of something else has he had something covering making a small hole in the outher cover and squirting WD40 into the gyro.
I have always been of the understanding that the base compoment of WD40 is fish oil and apart from all the other things it can do it is mainly a water displacement spray and not really a long term lubricant .
Not wanting to take the stance 'I am an engineer to know everything' approach seen so often in forums but it does seem strange that in the case of the gyro gears there are steel on steel gears but nowhere in the manual or the update, covering the alignment of the gears, is there any mention of lubricating the gears or the pin they run on
I can see the situation of packing grease all over the place is to be avoided as it will eventually get into the clutch area .
Nylon in its many forms is a partial self lubricant and any comments regarding this would be appriciated .
Same would apply to the motor pinion/spur gear any excess friction must be something to avoid if possible without ending up attracting grit which will end up destroying the mesh.
Would be interested to hear other opinions as to lubricate or run dry
Cheers Jim

Hi Jim always packed my gears and even brass bushes with lithium based high temp wheel bearing grease. Never wore a gear or bush out. Never even cleaned a wheel out. Always good. Never finds its way into the clutch.

chktm
Thanks and i was thinking along the same lines but it just seemed strange that the manual has no referances to lubrication apart from oiling the brass bushes in the gyro Dry.metal on metal at high RPM just doesn't sound right
Am I correct in assuming that when setting up the rear shock pre load the idea is to get the bike to sit horizontal ?
Not wanting to run before learning to walk as still need to get it actually running but have you seen any mention of anyone playing around with the steering rake .
I would understand when the bike was developed the rake angle was arrived at to give it an acceptable all round steering response .
Dont know if you are aware of the Anderson M5 but that has the steering assembly on a pivot set up controlled by a strong spring .Idea there is to provide a form of shock relief in a head on crash .
I tried locking mine in place on the fully compressed position reducing the rake .Did see a differance in the turn but also made it very twitchy .Was going to set up a screw adjustment device but never got around to doing it
Cheers Jim

Hi. I don't know if Chris still looks at this board but if he does I would like to thank him in advance for the unbeleivable level of support he gave for this product. I started reading this forum about 2 weeks ago and about half way through i orderd a bike. Now I got to the end and found I should have read faster and then i would have got a MM. Still I cant wait to try this thing. Will be here in about a week.
I have read every post in this forum so hopefully wont have to ask to many stupid questions.
Thanks to all for all the info here
Im in australia where is the best place to get parts....

Likewise I have only just joined this forum but have been playing around with the Anderson M5 for a while now where I take it the ref to MM as being the M5 .
I have yet to get the VMX running but they are different bikes with the VMX being 1/4 scale and the M5 1/5 .
May not sound a vast difference but can see the VMX being perhaps better suited to rougher conditions like longer gress than the M5
You do get more with the RTR VMX compared to the RTR M5 and the oil shocks on the VMX feel more like the real 1:1 MX shocks compared to the option oil ones on the M5.
Likewise I have gone through the majority of the posts here and credit to Chris in sticking with it and taking a few knocks which in most cases I would say user error compared to design error.
The M5 does need attention to some areas where perhaps the most important is to blue Locktite the majority of the screws and in particular the front and rear axle bolts .
I ended up wire locking them and have not had the experiance of the front wheel going in a different direction to the rest of the bike .
At the end of the day the majority of RC people enjoy a bit of tinkering but above all if it stops being fun then time to put it away for a bit
I would not worry as to asking questions as no matter what they are this is what forums are all about and life would be boring if everything was perfect .
Enjoy your bike
Jim

sorry...when i said mm i did mean the atomik metal mulisha

Understood and to the best of my knowledge it has yet to be available this side of the pond (UK) but as their promo says it is the next stage up from the Venom whith an electronic gyro that was going to be offered as a hop up from the existing mechanical one.
Cheers

Originally Posted by Jimob23

chktm
Thanks and i was thinking along the same lines but it just seemed strange that the manual has no referances to lubrication apart from oiling the brass bushes in the gyro Dry.metal on metal at high RPM just doesn't sound right
Am I correct in assuming that when setting up the rear shock pre load the idea is to get the bike to sit horizontal ?
Not wanting to run before learning to walk as still need to get it actually running but have you seen any mention of anyone playing around with the steering rake .
I would understand when the bike was developed the rake angle was arrived at to give it an acceptable all round steering response .
Dont know if you are aware of the Anderson M5 but that has the steering assembly on a pivot set up controlled by a strong spring .Idea there is to provide a form of shock relief in a head on crash .
I tried locking mine in place on the fully compressed position reducing the rake .Did see a differance in the turn but also made it very twitchy .Was going to set up a screw adjustment device but never got around to doing it
Cheers Jim

Hey Jim the stock setting for the spring length is about 43 mm. Ie the collar has about a 9 to 10 mm gap. I set my shocks up with about a 41 mm spring length and also stand the shock up two holes. I don't run the stock shock though. steering rake seems to be spot on and the front end does take some beating to break.

Originally Posted by jaysdaman

Hi. I don't know if Chris still looks at this board but if he does I would like to thank him in advance for the unbeleivable level of support he gave for this product. I started reading this forum about 2 weeks ago and about half way through i orderd a bike. Now I got to the end and found I should have read faster and then i would have got a MM. Still I cant wait to try this thing. Will be here in about a week.
I have read every post in this forum so hopefully wont have to ask to many stupid questions.
Thanks to all for all the info here
Im in australia where is the best place to get parts....

Hey Jay definitely right about the MM as I've found they are a great bike. Can order the gyro when available. I used to get parts from my local hobby shop in Rocky' Ultra Hobbies but they are pretty slack. Can try www.redstarhobbies.com
As they are the importers but I've found they are out of stock of a few crucial parts. I did an order through Atomic in the USA and it was on my door within a week and they had everything I needed. Hope that helps. maybe wait for the gyro and do an order through them.

Thanks chktm. Bike still hasn't arrived. I am going to order an e-gyro. what other parts do you think i should get straight away. Spares and upgrades.
thanks
Jay

Hey Jay,here's a few things you may want/need for your VMX
VEN-0475R triple clamp,comes in 2 colors red &gray
http://2wheelhobbies.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1122

Front brake kit
http://2wheelhobbies.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1564

Chain adjusters

http://2wheelhobbies.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1598

Alloy nrear shock
http://2wheelhobbies.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1377
Some places you can find just the shock body,this one is complete

Pinned layshaft
http://2wheelhobbies.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1618

Pinned sprocket,needed for the pinned layshaft
http://2wheelhobbies.com/product_inf...oducts_id=1619
I drilled and pinned my original,then got these when they were available

Thanks for that I will order all of these. I am thinking I will get some SM tyres aswell. How easy is it to change the tyres. Or can you get rims and mount your tyres for quick change. Having not got the bike yet I don't know whats involved with changing the rear.
Sorry for all the questions as I don't even have the bike yet. ( any day now !! )

I got a new front wheel for my sm tires,but for the rear i just disassemble it and put it on.It just cost too much to buy a complete rear with gyro, flywheel, bushings,etc.etc.It takes me just about 3/4 hour to do the change over with a close inspection and oil and grease everything.And when i put the dirt tire back on,i reverse it to wear the knobs in opposite direction.If you have a drill press and good bits,you can drill out the existing layshaft and sprocket and retap the sprocket to use an HPI pin shaft.I think this is the one i used http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPCZ2&P=7
It could save a few bucks.Keep the Q's coming,there are plenty of guys to answer them all

Originally Posted by jaysdaman

Thanks chktm. Bike still hasn't arrived. I am going to order an e-gyro. what other parts do you think i should get straight away. Spares and upgrades.
thanks
Jay

Hey Jay you should get a spare spur gear or two as well as a steel pinion gear. With the VMX I used to use an 11, with the MM I use a 12 or 13. Duratrax make all steel pinions of all sizes. Spare rear insert and tyre. Spare drive pins maybe. Definitely spare front sprockets. Fork seals come in handy. Option body posts.

Thanks guys...Ill start saving and just make one big order. The freight is the killer...
Bike still not here...still watching those vids. Man I'm lovin that backing it in then big power slide to wheelie thats just to much bro