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Old Jul 14, 2012, 08:50 PM
Pro to the Duce
maxxdout's Avatar
United States, PA, Stroudsburg
Joined May 2007
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I remember reading somewhere about the bike squatting too much when the gyro isn't adjusted right. When the gyro isn't running at full RPM's, I punch it and the bike squats to what looks to be all the way compressed until the gyro is at it's RPM top-end and then the suspension unloads to normal. Is this normal or should I adjust the gyro clutch gap more/less?
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 09:23 PM
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Joined Mar 2012
395 Posts
finally got my clutch cover could not find the lid i wanted but i took the cap off my vitamin bottle and it seems like it will work well

also got a new clutch/spur gear
pinned lay shaft
pinned sprocket

i think the only thing i need is the E-gyro and i will have a reliable, stable and fund bike
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 09:38 PM
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Australia, QLD, Burua
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxxdout View Post
I remember reading somewhere about the bike squatting too much when the gyro isn't adjusted right. When the gyro isn't running at full RPM's, I punch it and the bike squats to what looks to be all the way compressed until the gyro is at it's RPM top-end and then the suspension unloads to normal. Is this normal or should I adjust the gyro clutch gap more/less?
You can try a little less gap to try to get the clutch to slip rather than bite. If you are game you can play with drilling 3 six mm holes in each shoe to give a higher engagement point of the clutch and help it slip as well. Am doing a piece on getting the whole bike working well. My bikes don't squat really at all from the gyro clutch biting but also my track is high speed so gyro momentum is maintained well.
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 11:17 PM
PROFESSOR TRUTH JIMMY ICE
Akura2's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Sep 2003
6,643 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxxdout View Post
I remember reading somewhere about the bike squatting too much when the gyro isn't adjusted right. When the gyro isn't running at full RPM's, I punch it and the bike squats to what looks to be all the way compressed until the gyro is at it's RPM top-end and then the suspension unloads to normal. Is this normal or should I adjust the gyro clutch gap more/less?
That's 'normal' for low-grip conditions... you want to keep the gyro engaged as often as possible to maintain it's 'charge'... but if you are finding the bike to be too sluggish, or if the conditions are a little better, then you can open up the gyro gap some which raises the gyro engagement RPM...
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Old Jul 14, 2012, 11:44 PM
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Australia, QLD, Burua
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That's 'normal' for low-grip conditions... you want to keep the gyro engaged as often as possible to maintain it's 'charge'... but if you are finding the bike to be too sluggish, or if the conditions are a little better, then you can open up the gyro gap some which raises the gyro engagement RPM...
Sorry if I'm understanding correctly I think you may have it the wrong way by opening up the gap you take tension from the springs which will cause the clutch to engage even sooner. This will cause the rear to squat even more. Also can slow the gyro while braking which then causes the fish flopping when you go to accelerate. That's what I've found.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 03:03 PM
PROFESSOR TRUTH JIMMY ICE
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Sorry if I'm understanding correctly I think you may have it the wrong way by opening up the gap you take tension from the springs which will cause the clutch to engage even sooner. This will cause the rear to squat even more. Also can slow the gyro while braking which then causes the fish flopping when you go to accelerate. That's what I've found.
yup... had it backwards... thanks
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 05:01 PM
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United Kingdom, Beverley
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Hey Kurtis the gears on the original servo possibly broke because of too much load, my first one burned out, looking at where you have the cable positioned in the horn you may also have too much stress on this one. You can move the cable closer to the centre of the horn to make life easier for the servo which in turn also gives more leverage therefore more braking power. For even more brakes you can use 1/8 buggy pads. I moved mine right to the inside hole. Since doing that all has been good. Even with the fishing wire you could try a plastic antenna tube for an outer cable, won't kink and lasts forever. Also doesn't hinder the steering at all.
Think I may try this tbh, I can move my front wheel whilst the brakes are applied, so will probs try this, I will make it endo!!!
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 05:11 PM
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Australia, QLD, Burua
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Think I may try this tbh, I can move my front wheel whilst the brakes are applied, so will probs try this, I will make it endo!!!
Hey Kurtis am working on a piece about how I build my bike for reliability.Hope it comes in handy. Will post when I figure out pictures. Wish I had some help when I first got my bike. Would have saved time and money. Didn't have a computer for you guys input.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 05:34 PM
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What you trying to upload them up on, computer?
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 06:02 PM
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What you trying to upload them up on, computer?
No I pad can do vids just have to get some guidance for pics. Should b easy.
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Old Jul 15, 2012, 06:37 PM
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United States, NY, Poughkeepsie
Joined Apr 2006
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Hey yall,i know the stock brake servo is a little weak cause we all try to get the most out of it and wind up stripping out gears then its too late to back off it once that happens.I went thru 2 servos until i found this.With over 100 oz torque i have no problem slowing down without overstressing the servo.Fits like a glove.

http://www.servodatabase.com/servo/hyperion/ds13-tmb

Hyperion ds13tmb servo

Modulation: Digital
Torque: 4.8V: 100.0 oz-in (7.20 kg-cm)
6.0V: 116.7 oz-in (8.40 kg-cm)
Speed: 4.8V: 0.20 sec/60
6.0V: 0.16 sec/60
Weight: 0.68 oz (19.2 g)
Dimensions: Length: 1.16 in (29.5 mm)
Width: 0.51 in (13.0 mm)
Height: 1.09 in (27.7 mm)
Motor Type:
Gear Type: Metal
Rotation/Support: Single Bearing
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 02:25 AM
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cid:32332e16-cf16-11e1-957d-001f29ddd76c:1
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 02:31 PM
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United Kingdom, Beverley
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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
Hey Kurtis am working on a piece about how I build my bike for reliability.Hope it comes in handy. Will post when I figure out pictures. Wish I had some help when I first got my bike. Would have saved time and money. Didn't have a computer for you guys input.
Iv been looking for pads but don't know what would fit/work could you get us a link up please pal?
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 02:48 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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mobile devices posting pics

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Originally Posted by chktm View Post
cid:32332e16-cf16-11e1-957d-001f29ddd76c:1
You might need an app to do what you want. I dont have ipad but I did a google search, and you can use something like the photobucket website to post images to from your mobile, then once done, you get that link to photos and come into forum and post the direct link to that photo or album. I dont know about photobucket, so its just the idea of what you need to do ok.
http://photobucket.com/ipad
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 04:24 PM
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You might need an app to do what you want. I dont have ipad but I did a google search, and you can use something like the photobucket website to post images to from your mobile, then once done, you get that link to photos and come into forum and post the direct link to that photo or album. I dont know about photobucket, so its just the idea of what you need to do ok.
http://photobucket.com/ipad
Thanks Johnny tried image shack couldn't get it to work think I need an app. Really don't know what I'm doing. Can't seem to get photos to image shack. Have googled it will check out URL="http://photobucket.com/ipad"]http://photobucket.com/ipad[/URL]
Can send e mail photos easy.
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