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Australia, QLD, Burua
Joined Jul 2012
1,451 Posts
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Hey Johnny I realize that this was all i had yet. I really shot it for me. The main reason I put it in was to show the tyres work fine on hardpack clay. Have got some full length footage from the fast corner looking down the track came up really good nice drifting speedway style and nice and close up plenty of berm bashing and dirt flying as well also some awesome wheelies. At the moment I don't have a movie app to play with would love to slow mo some stuff have to get one and learn. Also only have an I pad may be a little bit difficult to mount it on my head. Bear with me Johnny things will improve. Haven't seen a VMX on u tube that goes as well as mine just looking to share some info.
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Australia, QLD, Burua
Joined Jul 2012
1,451 Posts
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[QUOTE=gurumods;22097484]
Quote:
Front forks 60wt Rear shock HotBodies big bore front buggy shock 1.2 pistons 60 wt oil plus 1 cap full of Mugen 1000wt diff oil as I can't get any heavier than 60wt at lhs Std rear spring Approx 5mm solid bump stop ( I use two old pistons ) Top shock mounted second hole from rear I can't get HB shocks or parts anymore may have to try a different brand Steering damper 40wt A MTCS blocks Std tyres Std front insert modified rear ( see MM 450 thread I think ) 11 tooth pinion hardened steel will last long time Steering servo Futaba .20sec transit time cheap one don't know number works good Brake servo std Radio std Motor std Venom 4800kv Speedo std Clutch gap on the blue bike is about 2.6 mm gap on yellow bike is about 2.9 mm and they feel similar. I usually start at about 2.9mm to 3mm and adjust in or out by 1/4 turn until I find the sweet spot for the size area you run in. Clutch shoes have three six mm holes drilled to lighten. Main gyro bearings have been cleaned out and relubed with 5/30w full synthetic engine oil to spin ultra free. I also tighten the four screws into plastic in the gyro cover plate fully and then back off 1/2 turn each, don't worry they won't come loose. The gyro speed needs to be fast for the bike to find sufficient grip on slick surfaces this is the most important thing. You don't have to use the modified rear insert I made them because of lack of stock but find they do give a Little more grip on the slick handle bumps better but also transition from side to side quicker because of a more rounded tyre so they may not suit everyone. On high grip the std insert works best just doesn't last long enough. Hope I covered it all if I think of anything else I'll let u know. I do have plenty of ideas on rebuilding the bike for reliability will work on that. Sorry took a while kept losing it. ![]()
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It was on pg 197 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...r+cap&page=197 |
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Joined Mar 2012
395 Posts
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Quote:
Anyone know where I can get this http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...x/DSC02403.jpg |
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Rellik: The MM450 pulls stronger all the way to top speed due to less drag on the drivetrain. That's not to say the VMX isn't punchy, but the power curve is a bit odd; tons of punch until the gyro clutch kicks in, then a drop in power, which ramps up again once the flywheel gets going. The thing with VMX, though, is that the power isn't consistent -- it will feel different when punching it if the bike had been running at half throttle for a while compared to punching it after just coming off a high speed pass. With the MM, it's punchy the whole time (depending on your slipper settings, of course).
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Joined Mar 2012
395 Posts
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