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Old Jun 10, 2012, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cwazyduck View Post
I'm running 100 wt oil in my steering damper and I think it's pretty good there for now.
Wow that's 60wt heavier then stock, how much diffrent is the steering and how long have you been running that weight? Wonder what the longevity of the servo will be....
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 07:54 PM
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United States, NY, Poughkeepsie
Joined Apr 2006
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Hay yall,just finished an 8 hour disc brake install.Yes 8 hrs,cause that chinsey cable just didn't work for me.I broke it in no time just by applying to much pressure while tightening it down.I found a peice of cable in my junk drawer .72mm and then i glued several wd-40 spray tubes together for the sheath then put i little shrink wrap on them.The little red thingy/cam that contacts the pads was a little too thick which made it bind up,unless i loosened the caliper screws,so i filed about .25 off of that and it kinda floats a little.The hole in the little red cam thingy was too small,so i drilled a small hole next to it then dremeled out the 2 holes and made a slot.Works perfect.Cannot run the cable behind the air intake or it hits the left fork when steering.Just run it over top.What broke the first cable was i screwed the set screw in too far and broke it,so i put a set screw in the back of the servo horn for a stopper.That works perfect also.I wish i could have found a longer peice of tubing instead of splicing three together,anyway it works great.Just thought i would share this with yall.More pics in the bucket.



cable is .72mm,not.072
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by gurumods View Post
Hay yall,just finished an 8 hour disc brake install.Yes 8 hrs,cause that chinsey cable just didn't work for me.I broke it in no time just buy applying to much pressure while tightening it down.I found a peice of cable in my junk drawer .72mm and then i glued several wd-40 spray tubes together for the sheath then put i little shrink wrap on them.The little red thingy/cam that contacts the pads was a little too thick which made it bind up,unless i loosened the caliper screws,so i filed about .25 off of that and it kinda floats a little.The hole in the little red cam thingy was too small,so i drilled a small hole next to it then dremeled out the 2 holes and made a slot.Works perfect.Cannot run the cable behind the air intake or it hits the left fork when steering.Just run it over top.What broke the first cable was i screwed the set screw in too far and broke it,so i put a set screw in the back of the servo horn for a stopper.That works perfect also.I wish i could have found a longer peice of tubing instead of splicing three together,anyway it works great.Just thought i would share this with yall.More pics in the bucket.



cable is .72mm,not.072
great work, guess they have something els to look into and fix, for me i dont like spending money on upgrades that i have to upgrade lol and upgrade should be something you add that makes something better and dose not require hrs of mods to make it work just my opinion
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 11:38 PM
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I hear you Rellik.I'm one of those guys that will buy anything lol.If it is too small i make it bigger,if its too big i make it smaller.After 25 years of tinkering with this stuff i kinda like the challenge.Beleive me,over the years i have tossed many hopups out the window,but i will keep this one no problem.The reason i posted it is just maybe the right person will see it and make a change in the production line.It's a simple change,larger dia. cable and sheath.The tight red thingy,well you can just add a very small shim in between caliper halves.
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 11:40 PM
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JohnnyMc's Avatar
California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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Mine went together fine and cable gave me no issues. Its a 30 dollar front brake kit. Thats fricken cheap so even if cable is too weak and servo is cheap, the mechanism itself is worth it. For best performance, expect to upgrade cable and servo with metal gears / higher torque and it will be a beast of a brake. I cant wait to do the mod along with the egyro.
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 02:54 AM
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Australia, SA, Adelaide
Joined May 2011
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[QUOTE=gurumods;21859569]Hay yall,just finished an 8 hour disc brake r ................................stopper.That works perfect also.I wish i could have found a longer peice of tubing instead of splicing three together


im not sure if a length of outer electrical cable sheeth with copper removed would work, im sure you will find somthing better than the wd40 spray tubes but if it works there you go.....i must say when i instaled mine i had no dramas, but it was vtight fit as in the right length,just fitted.........On another note here a tip.at some stage you will need to remove the chain for cleaning or what ever,be sure u put chain clip c pin or what ever its called lol,back on the RIGHT way or you will throw chain ,i also like to put a dob of strong locktite on it.
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 07:45 AM
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United States, NY, Poughkeepsie
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[QUOTE=UFRC;21862547]
Quote:
Originally Posted by gurumods View Post
Hay yall,just finished an 8 hour disc brake r ................................stopper.That works perfect also.I wish i could have found a longer peice of tubing instead of splicing three together


im not sure if a length of outer electrical cable sheeth with copper removed would work, im sure you will find somthing better than the wd40 spray tubes but if it works there you go.....i must say when i instaled mine i had no dramas, but it was vtight fit as in the right length,just fitted.........On another note here a tip.at some stage you will need to remove the chain for cleaning or what ever,be sure u put chain clip c pin or what ever its called lol,back on the RIGHT way or you will throw chain ,i also like to put a dob of strong locktite on it.
The cable was from a pull/pull rudder system i had from my giant airplanes parts bin.The wd40 tube,well it is the only tube i had with that dia.I will be looking for a lenght of tube that size wherever i go.If anyone comes across small dia. flex tube approx. 1mm i/s dia. and 2mm o/s dia.let me know please.
Update,i just found 25ft on ebay for $7.50 from china.I will have plenty now

JohnnyMc,A high torque/MG servo is in the works for sure.I agree about the $30 price tag.
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 10:41 AM
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Lloydminster AB
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Originally Posted by Rellik View Post
Wow that's 60wt heavier then stock, how much diffrent is the steering and how long have you been running that weight? Wonder what the longevity of the servo will be....
I put the 100 wt in last summer and the servo is still holding up well. If it does go I have 4 or 5 spare high torque units kicking around. The steering is quite responsive and head shake is quite minimal. i put 30 wt back in for a pack and went right back to 100. I found the 30 to be vague after running the 100 wt.
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 06:18 PM
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Took the bike out today after checking clutch gap (2.5mm) and loctite screws and putting 50wt oil in damper.I'm running on loose gravel and it accels straight until i hit the smallest of bumps or even a small stone then it goes into a wild tank slapper.Not sure what to do now as far as adjustments.
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 06:45 PM
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California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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fyi setting clutch gap to 2.5 means gyro engages later. At 3.0 clutch engages earlier so more gyro effect sooner. Did you want 2.5 on purpose? Are you getting gyro up to speed prior to launch? I hold full throttle in the air for 3 secs at the least, slow tire down then let er rip.

This is why there is so much buzz about the egyro...to get rid of them dang wobbles!
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 07:50 PM
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Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
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On the brake cable... how do you manage to break a 40lb test stainless steel braided cable with ptfe coating? You can fish salmon with that brake line!

Anyhow the cable is not an issue. Its light so it will not affect the steering and its plenty tough for even a high quality torque servo to pull on it. Granted it is a kit so for everyone who puts it together there is a unique way to do it I'm sure. If I had ten guys build it I'm sure I'll get 10 unique results no matter how simple I made the kit.
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 07:56 PM
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Post Falls, ID United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gurumods View Post
Took the bike out today after checking clutch gap (2.5mm) and loctite screws and putting 50wt oil in damper.I'm running on loose gravel and it accels straight until i hit the smallest of bumps or even a small stone then it goes into a wild tank slapper.Not sure what to do now as far as adjustments.
Three things you can check out;

1) as stated above have the gyro clutch engage sooner - or - spool it up ahead of time and keep your speed up when driving.

2) increase the dampening oil weight to 50wt from the stock oil. See how you like and adjust further from there.

3) make sure your forks work. If the front end is not absorbing the bumps you could be bouncing off objects and just making things worse.

Driving tip, when a tank slapper starts to happen try adjusting the throttle. Either power out of it and lift the front to let the damper stop it or tap the breaks to change the load on the front tire.
Keeping a steady power setting will not usually stop the oscillation.
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
On the brake cable... how do you manage to break a 40lb test stainless steel braided cable with ptfe coating? You can fish salmon with that brake line!

Anyhow the cable is not an issue. Its light so it will not affect the steering and its plenty tough for even a high quality torque servo to pull on it. Granted it is a kit so for everyone who puts it together there is a unique way to do it I'm sure. If I had ten guys build it I'm sure I'll get 10 unique results no matter how simple I made the kit.
Well it didn't actually break.I tightened down the set screw too far and it became untwined and kinked.The cable i used was all i had and was easier to work with.This time i put a set screw in the back of the servo horn to act as a stopper so i would not drive the cable into the hole and kink it .The 0.72mm cable seems to be perfect for me.It's a great kit no doubt,but i destroyed the only peice of wire.
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by gurumods View Post
Took the bike out today after checking clutch gap (2.5mm) and loctite screws and putting 50wt oil in damper.I'm running on loose gravel and it accels straight until i hit the smallest of bumps or even a small stone then it goes into a wild tank slapper.Not sure what to do now as far as adjustments.
i think most of your problem is prob the loose gravel, my bike was fairly stable, i took it to work to show the guys and i to had the same problem you are having, the loose gravel and the mechanical gyro dont mix well, or at least didnt for me.

I would say try and run on dirt or gas for now till the new gyro comes out and then try it again.
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Old Jun 11, 2012, 10:36 PM
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I have a set of sm tires coming by weeks end.I too think i will be better off on pavement til egyro
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