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Old Jan 13, 2012, 11:58 AM
gjw
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Joined Dec 2011
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Received my first parts order and this is the second time I've been disappointed with the QC on this model (my new bike had parts missing)

I ordered the nylon guide wire set, 3 of the 4 mounts that came with it had a bigger hole in them to accommodate the larger diameter of the nylon guides but one had the same size of hole as the original one which fit the metal guides. This was easily fixed by drilling it out but it's still not right.

I also ordered the complete alloy rear shock, the first thing I noticed was there was no bladder included in the bag, pretty weird as every other part was there but again no great problem as I have the old shock.

The main problem comes when I try to build the shock. It would appear that the lower part of the shock is too narrow inside so it doesn't allow the piston (if thats what it's called) to move down far enough (when compared against the original shock). It also gets stiff towards the bottom and gets stuck easily. I have tried the piston from the old shock and tried it with shock fluid and I get the same result. The picture below should explain it better than I have but basically I would only have 2/3 of the travel with the alloy shock compared to the original one.

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The photo shows both shocks pulled out to their maximum travel. There is no doubt that the alloy one is getting stuck well before it gets to the spacer (part number 0427D) as I have tried the piston in the plastic shock and I get the full travel.
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 04:21 PM
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Chris Nicastro's Avatar
Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
4,378 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gjw View Post
Received my first parts order and this is the second time I've been disappointed with the QC on this model (my new bike had parts missing)

I ordered the nylon guide wire set, 3 of the 4 mounts that came with it had a bigger hole in them to accommodate the larger diameter of the nylon guides but one had the same size of hole as the original one which fit the metal guides. This was easily fixed by drilling it out but it's still not right.

I also ordered the complete alloy rear shock, the first thing I noticed was there was no bladder included in the bag, pretty weird as every other part was there but again no great problem as I have the old shock.

The main problem comes when I try to build the shock. It would appear that the lower part of the shock is too narrow inside so it doesn't allow the piston (if thats what it's called) to move down far enough (when compared against the original shock). It also gets stiff towards the bottom and gets stuck easily. I have tried the piston from the old shock and tried it with shock fluid and I get the same result. The picture below should explain it better than I have but basically I would only have 2/3 of the travel with the alloy shock compared to the original one.

Attachment 4549598

The photo shows both shocks pulled out to their maximum travel. There is no doubt that the alloy one is getting stuck well before it gets to the spacer (part number 0427D) as I have tried the piston in the plastic shock and I get the full travel.
Im sorry about the guide wire set if you need a new part Im sure we can send you one to make that set right.
As for the rear shock it does not have a bladder. It is an emulsion style shock so it permits a mixture of air and oil to control dampening. If the piston stops short of the bottom you can see if it has any extra flashing from the mold on the edge. If so then lightly sand that away to permit the piston to travel all the way down. If its still a problem send it back to me personally and I'll check it out and replace any parts that are bad.
The piston will stop at the bottom of the shock as designed so just check to make sure you have the parts in the right order too.
At the top of the shock there is an O-ring that is delicate so lube that with a drop to help assembly. The cap will snug down all the way.

If you have any other issues please get in touch with us and we will correct any problems you may have with any of our products or explain any details to get you up and going.

Chris
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 12:54 PM
gjw
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Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
Im sorry about the guide wire set if you need a new part Im sure we can send you one to make that set right.
As for the rear shock it does not have a bladder. It is an emulsion style shock so it permits a mixture of air and oil to control dampening. If the piston stops short of the bottom you can see if it has any extra flashing from the mold on the edge. If so then lightly sand that away to permit the piston to travel all the way down. If its still a problem send it back to me personally and I'll check it out and replace any parts that are bad.
The piston will stop at the bottom of the shock as designed so just check to make sure you have the parts in the right order too.
At the top of the shock there is an O-ring that is delicate so lube that with a drop to help assembly. The cap will snug down all the way.

If you have any other issues please get in touch with us and we will correct any problems you may have with any of our products or explain any details to get you up and going.

Chris
Thanks for your quick reply Chris.

I've had a look at the piston bit and it all seems ok, it slides up and down the top part of the piston no bother, I've also tried the one from the original plastic shock and it also gets stuck. Both pistons are fine in the plastic shock. If I remove the spacer should it be able to slide all the way down to the bottom?

I'm quite happy to send it over to you for a look if thats ok, please pm my your details. If you want to send me the guide mount when you return the shock that would be cool but it's not a big problem as I drilled it out and it works fine.

p.s I must add that the bike seems to be pretty solid and well put together, it certainly takes a good thrashing and it great fun to drive, I think I've just been unlucky so far.
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 06:10 PM
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Kingdom of Sweden, Scania County, Helsingborg
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Hello guys! just having a quick question here about the front wheel on the VMX.. my bike has always been a little "unstable" in high speeds and today i saw that when i spin the front wheel its not straight at all.. uploaded a video read on some forums that its not 100% straight on any bike.. but is this to much?
VMX 450 front wheel (0 min 54 sec)
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 08:05 PM
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California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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Video is hard to tell whats wobbling (dark, blurry, wheel spinning too fast)...was it the tire or the wheel? if tire is completely off, does it wobble like that? If not, maybe tire wasnt set on the beadlock correctly.
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 08:27 PM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined Jun 2006
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Around 0:33+ it looks like your rim is straight but the tire is not mounted properly.
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Old Jan 19, 2012, 04:17 PM
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Kingdom of Sweden, Scania County, Helsingborg
Joined Oct 2011
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I took of the tire and put only the rim back as you said and it is not straight,still wobbling so i have to replace it.
Also noticed that the 2 bearings for front wheel was veery hard to turn.

I'm so happy with Bruce service at 2wheelhobbies so im buying from him again

Thanks for the help and tips guys

Take care!

/Alex from Sweden
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 07:49 PM
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Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
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Make sure the hubs are seated well in the wheel and that the tire insert and tire are installed correctly. If the wheel is off you can flex it a little bit to see if it stays in position. Sometimes in shipping these things can be effected by how they rest in the packaging.

If there is still a problem as always contact us and we will take care of it.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:01 PM
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California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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Bikes been sitting around. I got a spare rear tire to experiment with, so I measured diameter without knobbies at almost 6.5". Going to try re-treading tire with something that may be suitable for local track if it holds up Towerhobbies, Proline Revolver VTR M2 w/o insert for $17. Gonna be a couple weeks but I'll report findings.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:24 PM
gjw
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Joined Dec 2011
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Chris can you please send me your address so I can send you my alloy rear shock. I have looked for extra flashing on the piston mould as advised and it all looks fine. I also lightly sanded it around the edge but it still sticks, i'm pretty sure it is the shock housing thats wrong so would like to send it to you for inspection.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 04:20 PM
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Post Falls, ID United States
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Yep here you go;

Attention: Chris Nicastro
c/o Venom Group Intl.
14028 N. Ohio St.
Rathdrum, ID 83858
USA

I'll take a look and see whats going on.

Chris
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 04:17 PM
gjw
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Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
Yep here you go;

Attention: Chris Nicastro
c/o Venom Group Intl.
14028 N. Ohio St.
Rathdrum, ID 83858
USA

I'll take a look and see whats going on.

Chris
Thanks, Ill get it off to you at some point next week.
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 10:36 PM
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Alloy Rear Shock

I agree with the statement that if the shock piston stops short of the bottom or is sticking it's probably extra flashing from the mold on the edge of it. I carefully filed mine and it really smoothed the action out.

I understand the configuration of the rear alloy shock and that it does not have a bladder. It is an emulsion style shock so it permits a mixture of air and oil to control dampening as stated below.

Does anyone have any tips as to when building this shock. How much oil to put in it? Is 70wt the way to go as with the stock shock. when assembling it what is the best trick to get the fluid at the right level since there is no bladder. (ie piston pushed in 3/4 when screwing the top cap on, etc.)

I have tried several times and either end up with way to little dampening (compresses to easy) or way to much (to hard to compress the shock completely). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 01:32 AM
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Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
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You can fill the shock to the top and purg the air out of it as well as you can at first. Then just assemble it. There will be a tiny bit of air trapped and that is all you need. You want the air in there because it's compressible and the oil is not.
This is a strong shock so it will be stiff and testing by hand will take some practice. Put the shock in the bike and test it. You also change the piston hole diameter to adjust the dampening. Change the oil and the number and diameter of the piston holes to tune the shock as needed.
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Old Feb 02, 2012, 08:55 PM
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Joined Jan 2012
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installing venom nylon guide wire set

When installing the venom nylon guide wire set do you only use one nylon wire on each side and form a half moon from the front mount fitting to the rear mount fitting installing one on each side. I am 99% that is correct but want to make sure. Thanks
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