The newer models had the part of the frame redesigned. I dont know if what venom sells as a replacement from this frame piece is the newer or older version. Here's a pic of the holes I drilled out below the original ones so you dont have to replace the frame.

Ahh, mine has no holes so I guess its the older one. I may try that out.

I I got my back wheel apart and it had two plastic gears and two metal ones, but everything looked to have loctite where it was susposed to. I went ahead and swaped out for the steel gears and got it all lubed up.

Upon closer inspection I aslo noticed that I broke the front wheel and bottom plate & droop screw where it broke off.

I was able glue the rear shock back together and I can get by with the other broken parts for now, Luckily tower had all the parts I needed.

How short can you make the training bars and still be able to pick the bike up off a flat surface? Seems like I could get some tighter turns with a little more lean, but I don't want to go fetching it all the time.

Originally Posted by Mizchief

How short can you make the training bars and still be able to pick the bike up off a flat surface? Seems like I could get some tighter turns with a little more lean, but I don't want to go fetching it all the time.

I use nylon rods and didnt experiment with lengths, so for offroad I kept stock length. You can always go to a hardware store and buy some steel rods that should fit stock mounting and see what works.

What's the advantage of the nylon rods? I was thinking about just clipping the ends of the wire or bending them up about 2 inches from the end of the loop.

Trying to think of a clever way to rig up a "kick stand" via a servo mounted in the front break slot to help pick the bike up enough to get it going again once it's laid over.

Try shortening the wires half an inch at a time and you can see the difference right away. Your suspension setting will also effect how easy it is to pick the bike back up too.

The reason for nylon guides is to have something that is more slick on certain surfaces. Its also softer and compliant compared to the steel wires so its just a different way to do the same thing.

I was watching some of the tech videos and realized that I should have set the timing markers for the gyro gears but did not. Is it a big deal if timing is off? Do I need to disassemble the wheel and reset timing before running it, or can I wait until routine maintenance is needed (like oiling the gears)

No you should time the gears and go from there. They will cause excess wear and tear if left alone.

Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro

Try shortening the wires half an inch at a time and you can see the difference right away. Your suspension setting will also effect how easy it is to pick the bike back up too.

The reason for nylon guides is to have something that is more slick on certain surfaces. Its also softer and compliant compared to the steel wires so its just a different way to do the same thing.

I think I get it now, if I were to run inside a gym or something like that, the owners probably wouldn't' like having steel scraping along the floor.

Oh I would love to see the look on their faces when they see polyurethane ribbons peel up in curly strings from the gym floor!

Also the nylon bars allow the bike to lean over further off road and catch less on obstacles. Its a little easier on the bike and chassis but it takes more skill to drive the bike because you have to pay closer attention to the lean angle and grip. Generally you drive faster and keep up more momentum in the turns since you lean over further.

I just finished installing the front break, how freely should the front wheel turn when the break is not applied?

Totally free.
When you adjust the brake you have to set it close on the pads so the servo doesn't have to travel as much. There will be some adjusting and tuning but it's no big deal. Keep it going!

Ok, so should I be tuning using the screws that hold the pad on, our by turning the cone looking screws to change the cable tention or a combo of both?

It was raining all day yesterday but I got to go up and down the street a bit to try out the break and I really like the way it turned out.

I would love to see a system like that applied to a 2WD SCT!

Cool, yeah the end result is a combo of all of the adjustments to get it set to your liking. I made to be fully adjusted and you can use any Mini Class servo for more braking power.

That would be cool to see front brakes on 2WD SCT's, who knows I mean I did make a set of cut brakes for my Creeper so its totally possible!

If your feeling a bit crafty look into our GPV disc brakes and go from there...