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Old Oct 12, 2011, 12:25 AM
www.motounoacinque.it
giakomo65's Avatar
Italy, Apulia, Taranto
Joined Dec 2009
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where you have to write?
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Old Oct 12, 2011, 01:06 AM
LOTS of R/C's
TERRA NOVA's Avatar
Canada, AB, Stettler
Joined Oct 2011
46 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragbikebam View Post
"It is cnc machined for strength, with the added weight of steel gears, its a little insurance but I don't think its necessary if you don't want it...I got one in mine though.
I put it in anyway. I hope to eventually have a completely hopped-up VMX. Once all that is done, I am determined to drive it.

I did some playing around with the Gyro clutch. My wheel now spins very fast and keeps spinning when I release the throttle. But I noticed the Gyro also spinning much better. I could barely hear it before. I think I need to adjust the clutch a little tighter. The springs were kind of crushed when I took it apart, so I assume they were very tight from factory and are now not releasing the shoes at low enough speed.
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Old Oct 12, 2011, 01:17 AM
LOTS of R/C's
TERRA NOVA's Avatar
Canada, AB, Stettler
Joined Oct 2011
46 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
I know I know....

The status is HOLD unfortunately. With the general sales of the bike being slow we are waiting to see plus other developments that influence releasing the tires.

If you guys really want new tires for track use let us hear it on Facebook and through your local dealers, email us directly, and so on so we can see the demand is there.
I can understand the logic there. Some people think because a few of us want some new tires that everyone will want them and the company should make them. I am sure it would have to be thousands of people wanting them to justify it. My company deals directly with a factory and they listen to my suggestions, but they are not going to produce something because a few of my customers and I want it .
Hang in there guys, the bike sales will improve as we go out with our bikes and make people drool over them. A lot of people are not going to dump $500 on a bike that they have not seen running in person. That's why mine is taking a hell of a beating, I show people how much fun you can have with it. I am not sure what else we can do to get the VMX some exposure, but it may just take some more time.
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Old Oct 12, 2011, 03:28 AM
www.motounoacinque.it
giakomo65's Avatar
Italy, Apulia, Taranto
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post

1st) Outcast187 with "block pass" on 3/9/2011
2nd) (me) with "blockpass" on 3/10/2011
3rd) Top Dave with "block pass" on 4/16/11 (if I recall)

BTW, I posted on facebook and nobody gave a to voice an opinion. Ridiculous.
trovato!!!! http://www.facebook.com/venomgroup
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Old Oct 12, 2011, 04:09 AM
www.motounoacinque.it
giakomo65's Avatar
Italy, Apulia, Taranto
Joined Dec 2009
28 Posts
Warning steering damper, my not running well and the bike was difficult to ride. I simply unscrewed a bit 'lower ring and everything flows well !!!!! nice and easy bike to ride!!
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Old Oct 12, 2011, 02:03 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
1,758 Posts
layshaft machined wrong

@Chris:
Layshaft - Just an fyi the layshaft I received was off in the placement of where the set screw would sit on the shaft. In the scheme of things, not a biggy, I filed off where it should be but something you may need to correct. I lined up my trashed layshaft/sprocket next to the new one in pic so you can see all this.

Spur Gear - Ive also spent a lot of time filing and sanding spots in the two spur gears (one origina, one about a month old). One side will be high and when rotated it will be loose elsewhere. They also wobble more than I expect a spur gear to do. I bought a replacement a while ago just to keep as extra and it had same sort of features. Nothing stripped yet so thats good point, so its not all bad.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old Oct 14, 2011, 09:53 PM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined Dec 2009
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Ok.... Well just finished up the VMX with Motard stuff and ran a battery pack through it. Pretty cool i must say.... the metal gears that where meshed tight worked out after adding some Crank bearing grease used to brake in new crank bearings on some old race bike engines i built in the past.

I had Mantisworx provide me with a 2 stage piston for the rear shock with 90wt oil.... Ehhh better, but not right just yet. I think the shock piston is the answer i just need to find the right oil (diff lube maybe) and a matching spring. Probably jut order the alloy rear shock on my next bruce order and start from there.

The only thing i have a problem with which can be worked out in many ways is the front brake kit. Servo... probably stronger needed. But the main issue is the front caliber and rotor.... its applied brakes even if its not being applied. I spin the wheel and it rotates about a 1/4 turn and stops. with the brakes engaged it does not spin.. but the braking force applied is almost nothing. I figured and battery pack through the thing would brake some things in and clear up the problem to make room for adjustment. No biggy though as this is my first go round and its time for bed soon. Monday when i meet Marcus/Mantisworx and Doug/fatboyracing at Mikes in Porter we can all put our heads together for a couple of solutions. Also any other with ideas (Johnny!!) Hint hint! im all ears.

Now for the other thoughts......

KICK AZZ!!!!!! Could not keep the front wheel on the ground out of corners. High speed corners the bike would get twitchy but stay solid to the ground. Very suprized on how sharp the turning radius was on the bike... With the metal crash bars too... i have the nylon ones just didnt feel like putting them on yet.. wanted to test it out first. Drove it without Vinnie too.. Flipped it over once. Hopefully we can get a camera out at mikes for my first few laps which should be funny.... then take some video at the end of the day after getting some time with it.

Great job Chris!!! I love the bike again.... Motard is the way to go with this thing IMO. My grand father got this for me last X-mas after seeing my interest in the Rc bikes... I could not be happier!!
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Old Oct 14, 2011, 11:36 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
1,758 Posts
If the bike handled the dirt like it does the street with motard tires, Id be in love because it has zero wobble and goes exactly how I imagine. Im not in love atm. lol

Clay, what I noticed about the front wheel sticking is it has to do with the replacement hub the disk is floating on. At first I pushed the hub into the wheel as far as it could and got the results you found . Instead the hub seems to be made too short so if its in all the way the disk is not inline between pads but angled. You may also notice if you pushed the hub in all the way that the wheel is not centered. After everything is put together I just pulled the left hub/disk as far to the left as possible. I also used the end of a balloon (part that looks like an oring, cut off) and rolled it on the hub to act like a spacer of sorts. After this, if bike is upright the wheel spins pretty nice, only if I tilt it does it slow a little, but way better then your situation. Hope it helps. As far as brake power, I was looking into what I could do within the radio settings. Do a search for my name and brake to find it if you want some ideas to try. Ive been oo frustrated to experiment further (just got bike back together after a month).

Im testing a 3 hole piston prototype Marcus gave with either AE 80wt (1000cst) or maybe 2000 diff, cant remember. You may need to try higher for street. One thing Ive not tried but thought about is the shock limiter bolt underneath the swingarm. Im wondering if you raise the bolt up high to give the bike a lower profile maybe it will help...not sure though just something I considered.

Best motard pics of this bike Ive seen taken is from Rene at the Onroad Cup this year that Bernhard graciously posted. I dont think people really looked because he has a great gallery. Here's a pic that has a couple of ideas for you to consider: no footpegs (get the boots out of the way!) and nylon guards formed for deeper turn angles.
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Old Oct 15, 2011, 12:07 AM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyMc View Post
If the bike handled the dirt like it does the street with motard tires, Id be in love because it has zero wobble and goes exactly how I imagine. Im not in love atm. lol

Clay, what I noticed about the front wheel sticking is it has to do with the replacement hub the disk is floating on. At first I pushed the hub into the wheel as far as it could and got the results you found . Instead the hub seems to be made too short so if its in all the way the disk is not inline between pads but angled. You may also notice if you pushed the hub in all the way that the wheel is not centered. After everything is put together I just pulled the left hub/disk as far to the left as possible. I also used the end of a balloon (part that looks like an oring, cut off) and rolled it on the hub to act like a spacer of sorts. After this, if bike is upright the wheel spins pretty nice, only if I tilt it does it slow a little, but way better then your situation. Hope it helps. As far as brake power, I was looking into what I could do within the radio settings. Do a search for my name and brake to find it if you want some ideas to try. Ive been oo frustrated to experiment further (just got bike back together after a month).

Im testing a 3 hole piston prototype Marcus gave with either AE 80wt (1000cst) or maybe 2000 diff, cant remember. You may need to try higher for street. One thing Ive not tried but thought about is the shock limiter bolt underneath the swingarm. Im wondering if you raise the bolt up high to give the bike a lower profile maybe it will help...not sure though just something I considered.

Best motard pics of this bike Ive seen taken is from Rene at the Onroad Cup this year that Bernhard graciously posted. I dont think people really looked because he has a great gallery. Here's a pic that has a couple of ideas for you to consider: no footpegs (get the boots out of the way!) and nylon guards formed for deeper turn angles.

I like it.... Looks like he has a e-gyro too.... I did pull the fork lowers out a little on the front axle and let the whole wheel float and got the same result you did by pulling the carrier away... my idea is not the one i want to go with because i want the forks to be free... but it was a quick test to see a result. I would like to glue the hub.. but not a big fan of that kind of stuff. Also i see the rotor is not straight. The factory press to produce the rotor made it dished.... also it is bent in three different directions on a glass surface. Maybe i can get my hands on a G10 disk if im lucky. It also looks like the brake cable and housing may not be the best option for the power im looking for. Im seeing the housing getting a z effect under braking and the brakes are still not very powerful. Is there a place i could get the housing in that spring tube stuff that the zh uses for the brakes from Mcmastercarr or somewhere similar?
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Old Oct 15, 2011, 09:55 AM
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United States, TX, Houston
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Johnny i cant seem to find the Brake thread you mentioned
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Old Oct 15, 2011, 02:45 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
1,758 Posts
Start following my discussion on page 138
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Old Oct 15, 2011, 03:14 PM
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Joined Dec 2009
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I seriously stopped readying at page 136 trying to find it... Lol thanks!
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Old Oct 15, 2011, 04:39 PM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
Is that from the stock pads?

Check and see on a glass surface if the rotor is cupped or flat. Also you can deburr those small holes and then sand the rotor with 400-600 grit fine sand paper.

Place the sand paper sheet flat on the glass and tape the corners down, make sure the papaer is wrinkle free and flat. Apply a few drops of water to it. Take a sharpie and mark up the rotor faces. Sand the rotor lightly at first to see what shape its in.

If its warped you can fix it.

If its flat then you can just continue to sand the area the pads come in contact and just sand off the black color. You should get a little more bite and depending on how rough the surface is it will change the performance but also wear pads faster.
Chris how would you fix a warped rotor? I want to hear your method before i try mine (Big hammer, two plate steel squares, and good aim)
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Old Oct 15, 2011, 05:57 PM
Editor, RCCA
Guidoracer's Avatar
Joined Nov 2004
3,168 Posts
Maybe try putting it in a vice first? I'll have to check my rotor.
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Old Oct 15, 2011, 10:22 PM
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Post Falls, ID United States
Joined Feb 2004
4,337 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 621clay View Post
Chris how would you fix a warped rotor? I want to hear your method before i try mine (Big hammer, two plate steel squares, and good aim)
Lol, I agree, find a way locate bend radius and start there. If you compress the disc between plates it won't fix the bend. You have to straighten the part at the bend first and then work it out.
If the rotor is warped by 1mm then flip it and span some spacers 1mm off the table. Counter bend the part at the bend and it will go back to near perfect.

Just some TLC and the rotor will come back to norm.
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