SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
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Old Sep 21, 2011, 02:20 AM
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Gartenzwerg's Avatar
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On better Radios you can control the front and rear brake independently.

Just for tests - you could also try to attach a servo instead of the ESC (power it with a rx-battery), and play around with the control until the servos move the way you need it.

Okay, I just opened the Manual
(http://www.venom-group.com/mmVENOMGR...ns%20Final.pdf)

If you get the mixing to work, but the brake servo moves in the wrong direction, try to reverse it (Menu REV, change the AUX value)

If you use the BR_MIX Function, what happens if you set the Rate to 120%, and reduce the rear brake (EPA) until it feels fine? It should brake harder at the front then..

You can also try to set the EPA of the AUX Channel to 120%

The mixing Part is not very detailed in the manual - but I guess it simply does not give you more options than the ones described.
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Old Sep 21, 2011, 11:17 AM
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Chris Nicastro's Avatar
Post Falls, ID United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragbikebam View Post
I would be surprised if the stock radio has brake bias mixing...I think that's what your looking for right?
It does its called B-mix and Mix. Both will mix the channels but use only one at a time.
I find that Mix has more range than B-mix.

If you set the Aux channel to 120% mix of the Th channel then for example you will only ever get 20% more of any setting the TH is set to.

So if TH = 80% then Aux = 96%.

The RTR radio can mix but its range is limited. There are radios out there with more powerful mixing programs built in but for the RTR radio to do this at all is pretty cool.

Aux EPA should be 120% Rev (or brake) and 0% Forward. This will keep the servo from crashing the cable stay.

Your ESC brake setting can be adjusted at the ESC as well...did you guys forget that one? So you can reduce the rear brake and further extend the radios programming by combining the two digital settings.

http://www.venom-group.com//mmVENOMG...n%20Manual.pdf

See page 5.

The radio will only tell the ESC to brake to the setting it has and the ESC will only brake as much as its set to. The end result is that even though the radio is mixing at a max of 20% you will be able to make it a total bewteen 21-70% overall.

Set the ESC to 75% brake force
Set the Tx TH EPA to 100% Brake
The bike will brake at 75% brake force
Set the front brake to 120% Mix
The front will brake at full brake force and the Bias is now 120/75 instead of 120/96.
That extends the bias power by 21%

If you need more brake bias thats an easy way to do it and its all in your hands with the RTR set up.
If you need more clamping force on the pads then thats a servo issue and there are a ton of them out there that are better than the included servo.
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Last edited by Chris Nicastro; Sep 21, 2011 at 11:40 AM.
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Old Sep 21, 2011, 12:30 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
California central coast
Joined Feb 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gartenzwerg View Post
Just for tests - you could also try to attach a servo instead of the ESC (power it with a rx-battery), and play around with the control until the servos move the way you need it.

Okay, I just opened the Manual
(http://www.venom-group.com/mmVENOMGR...ns%20Final.pdf)

If you get the mixing to work, but the brake servo moves in the wrong direction, try to reverse it (Menu REV, change the AUX value)

If you use the BR_MIX Function, what happens if you set the Rate to 120%, and reduce the rear brake (EPA) until it feels fine? It should brake harder at the front then..

You can also try to set the EPA of the AUX Channel to 120%
All great ideas, except setting aux to rev isnt necessary since it rotates correctly on braking, its just the neutral position is different using mix.

Didnt think of it, but I guess if I readjust the cable and servo horn to account for where servo wants to start at neutral when MIX is enabled, I should be good. Guess I'll have to test it out on my fresh backyard arenacross track.
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Old Sep 22, 2011, 11:34 AM
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Lets see this supposed backyard areacross track you flaunt in our faces, I want proof!
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Old Sep 22, 2011, 08:07 PM
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Joined Jun 2011
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Venom 450

Hey is there anyone out there that owns more than one bike?

Chris you don't count.

I have 2, the 3 one on the way. The reason, to allow down time for a bike and if a good friend wants to go riding. Plus these bikes are cool as heck!!
Good enough answer for me.
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Old Sep 22, 2011, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetson40 View Post
Hey is there anyone out there that owns more than one bike?

Chris you don't count.

I have 2, the 3 one on the way. The reason, to allow down time for a bike and if a good friend wants to go riding. Plus these bikes are cool as heck!!
Good enough answer for me.
You want another one? I have one with a lot of spares, and a new body I will let go cheap.
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Old Sep 23, 2011, 07:40 PM
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How much are you asking? Any pictures?
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Old Sep 23, 2011, 08:07 PM
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Question

Does the rear plastic brake rotor serve any function?, it appears just for looks?

Thanks
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Old Sep 23, 2011, 08:11 PM
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Just for looks and place holder for future revisions.
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Old Sep 24, 2011, 01:57 PM
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$450.00 down the drain

$450.00 for this bike and it has broke everytime I have used it, now I think the gyros friggen plastic gears need to be replaced???? I dont work on my full size dirt bikes 1/2 as much as this toy dirt bike. I would advise people to stay away unless you dont mind repairs everytime you take it out.
$450.00 worth of bumbed
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Old Sep 24, 2011, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1955 View Post
$450.00 for this bike and it has broke everytime I have used it, now I think the gyros friggen plastic gears need to be replaced???? I dont work on my full size dirt bikes 1/2 as much as this toy dirt bike. I would advise people to stay away unless you dont mind repairs everytime you take it out.
$450.00 worth of bumbed
How long have you had the bike? How many Battery packs have you run through it... And have you gone through the bike like the tips and tricks thread mentions?
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Old Sep 24, 2011, 09:43 PM
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I have run about 5 or 6 though, is their a page in this thread with a condenced list of to do items I can double check, man took apart the gyro and the plastic gears were distroyed, ordered metal gears and hope this gets me back on the road, looking fo a better way to get to the heck screw in the small drive gear, the small on that drives the chain, without disassembling the bike. Have been holding an allen wrench with small vice grips but would like to remove the set screw and clean it up and reapply some thread lock
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Old Sep 24, 2011, 09:43 PM
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You need to replace with the all steel gears. I believe you send your plastic gears in and will be replaced with steel ones.
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Old Sep 24, 2011, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladerunner1955 View Post
I have run about 5 or 6 though, is their a page in this thread with a condenced list of to do items I can double check, man took apart the gyro and the plastic gears were distroyed, ordered metal gears and hope this gets me back on the road, looking fo a better way to get to the heck screw in the small drive gear, the small on that drives the chain, without disassembling the bike. Have been holding an allen wrench with small vice grips but would like to remove the set screw and clean it up and reapply some thread lock
Well taking the wheel apart isn't that bad. Under 10.00 walmart has a blackdecker battery driver. Or use a rachet driver.
There is a thread on what to check. Type Chris the creator of the bike. Theres a check sheet and tips.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 05:10 AM
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Joined Feb 2010
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to get access to set screw on the smaller front sprocket that drives the chain, I drilled a hole from the bottom of chassis directly under. (You can thank TopDave for this tip from like page 30 or something lol)
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