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Old May 04, 2011, 02:33 PM
PROFESSOR TRUTH JIMMY ICE
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Sep 2003
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I run the heck out of my bike and I have yet to experience any real issues other than those I brought upon myself from assembling the gyro backwards... I removed the four inner screws on the gyro cover to free up the gyro, and I've also degreased the bearings and re-oiled them with thin bearing oil... everything else has been great... I just need the new fuzzy tires so I can really let it all hang out on the track... right now the stock tires are only good for bashing/racing on grass and loamy surfaces... I'm using the SMR tires mostly and they are a blast
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Old May 04, 2011, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
Rich S

If you read back a few pages this was explained and I'm sorry about the inconvenience. The bike has been extensivly tested and developed and in the final hour the problem was the result of the production line not following the plan. As many others have experssed the bike is solid when asembled correctly, IE using thread lock as directed on critical parts. Otherwise even the plastic gears will last a long time and endure some punishment as planned.
The steel gears are standard parts now and the plastic gears have been discontinued from all of the produciton. It makes no difference when you buy a VMX all of them will be covered under warranty and you will receive a new set of steel gears.

Drive the VMX hard but with care and the next set of parts you will replace are tires.

one quick clarification, the gap in the clutch shoes should be 3 mm when fully extended correct? also what in that gyro is adjustable to make it stable or stabler at low speeds. I have some metal gears coming and wanted to be sure on this before I button it up.


Thanks
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Old May 04, 2011, 04:06 PM
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The clutch shoe gap can be adjusted from 2.5mm to 3.0mm to change the engagement point. If you drive the bike in a smaller place and you dont really see very high speeds and hard braking situations like bashing out doors then adjust the gap to 3.0mm. If you drive fast and brake hard all the time etc then adjust the gap to 2.5mm.
The RTR comes adjusted to about 2.7mm.
Also rememeber to adjust the slipper clutch to allow the gear to slip with some effort by hand and then try it. The VMX should not wheelie all the time so adjust the slipper a little looser to reduce or eliminate this tendency.
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Last edited by Chris Nicastro; May 04, 2011 at 05:13 PM.
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Old May 04, 2011, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
The clutch show gap can be adjusted from 2.5mm to 3.0mm to change the engagement point. If you drive the bike in a smaller place and you dont really see very high speeds and hard braking situations like bashing out doors then adjust the gap to 3.0mm. If you drive fast and brake hard all the time etc then adjust the gap to 2.5mm.
The RTR comes adjusted to about 2.7mm.
Also rememeber to adjust the slipper clutch to allow the gear to slip with some effort by hand and then try it. The VMX should not wheelie all the time so adjust the slipper a little looser to reduce or eliminate this tendency.
So bear with me, i've only worked on RC cars and heli's. The gyro shoes need to have a gap 2.7 mm when pulled apart? where is the slipper clutch adjustment? is it the nut on the side of the bike holding the spur gear on? I did not se any mention of it in the manual. Thanks again.
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Old May 04, 2011, 05:12 PM
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No problem,
The gyro clutch shoes should be set to 2.7mm gap from the jig they useon the assembly line, yes. If not then check for thread lock and if missing please add a drop to the shoe side and then insert the screw. Why? Because you dont want the thread lock to muck up the spring and clearance hole in the other shoe causing a bind.

When dealing with thread lock you must degrease the parts first then proceed to assemble them. Use acetone or a good degreaser on the metal parts to be assembled.

The slipper clutch is incorporated behind the spur gear and there is a thrust bearing and cone spring washer, 2, behind the nut to make a spring. You should be able to hold the rear wheel in your left hand and with your right hand thumb and index finger just barely be able to slip the spur. Thats a good starting point. (with the right hand cover off the bike)
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Old May 04, 2011, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
No problem,
The gyro clutch shoes should be set to 2.7mm gap from the jig they useon the assembly line, yes. If not then check for thread lock and if missing please add a drop to the shoe side and then insert the screw. Why? Because you dont want the thread lock to muck up the spring and clearance hole in the other shoe causing a bind.

When dealing with thread lock you must degrease the parts first then proceed to assemble them. Use acetone or a good degreaser on the metal parts to be assembled.

The slipper clutch is incorporated behind the spur gear and there is a thrust bearing and cone spring washer, 2, behind the nut to make a spring. You should be able to hold the rear wheel in your left hand and with your right hand thumb and index finger just barely be able to slip the spur. Thats a good starting point. (with the right hand cover off the bike)

So does tightening or loosening that spur gear nut adjust it? similar to an RC car.
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Old May 04, 2011, 05:40 PM
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@RICH S: Yes, just like the slipper on an RC car. Tighten the nut to clamp down on the slipper, loosen the nut to let the spur slip.
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Old May 04, 2011, 05:54 PM
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See my movie
procure por jacare e sua moto
alligator and look for your bike
Jacaré e sua moto - Parte I (0 min 25 sec)

Jacaré e sua moto - Parte II (0 min 56 sec)
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Old May 04, 2011, 06:30 PM
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Post Falls, ID United States
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Es usted de Espania o Portugal?

I can see you are left handed, canhoto, zurdo?

You are holding the transmitter like someone who is is left handed. You might have an easier time if you try to use the transmitter right handed.

Saludos,

Chris
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Old May 04, 2011, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Guidoracer View Post
@RICH S: Yes, just like the slipper on an RC car. Tighten the nut to clamp down on the slipper, loosen the nut to let the spur slip.
Got it

thanks
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Old May 05, 2011, 03:03 AM
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Woohoo... Finally wore out a rear motard tyre. Got 2 more rears ordered so mx tyres back on. Also I bent the drive layshaft so got one of those ordered too. Probly a small rock or something as I lost the slipper cover.
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Old May 06, 2011, 07:22 PM
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My VMX Has Been Terrible

After replacing the gears with metal ones for $24, getting it all adjusted (slipper clutch , gyro etc.) I have had a total of about 20 min runtime and 20 hours of wrenching. Took it out today and the idler gear screw backed out and destroyed the mount and screw, and melted the axle spacers (all the screws were locktighted as well), I'm thinking one of those bearings siezed and just ripped it out. Hobby shops don't stock parts around here on the shelves for any Venom product to boot. Perhaps I just got a lemon, or the right combination of defective parts ending up in one bike, but I have had enough of the VMX for a while.
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Old May 07, 2011, 04:41 AM
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dont know how many packs ive had through mine now (musy be around the 20 mark) but mine is still going strong.

i run it mainly on grass and dirt, but have run on the pavement a fair bit also. im hard on the throttle and use full brakes all the time (coz they are pretty lack lustre) Have had no problems apart from a chipped fork oring.
im have the steel gears, but im not installing them till the plastic ones give out. the back wheel still runs smooth and isnt notchy at all.

i DID rebuild the rear wheel before running for the first time which involved;
clutch gap to 2.5
degreased everything and reoiled with tri flow
loctited idler gear bolt (which were loctited from factory)
check idler gears were perpendicular to base plate thingo
shimmered the gyro plate .02mm. as it wouldnt spin long (can use .01 but i didnt have any)
backed off slipper

with so many posts about the negs, i thought id post my positive experience.
the more i drive this bike and get better at it, the more i am enjoying throwing it around.

one of the favs of my fleet at the moment
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Old May 07, 2011, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Lizardracer View Post
dont know how many packs ive had through mine now (musy be around the 20 mark) but mine is still going strong.

i run it mainly on grass and dirt, but have run on the pavement a fair bit also. im hard on the throttle and use full brakes all the time (coz they are pretty lack lustre) Have had no problems apart from a chipped fork oring.
im have the steel gears, but im not installing them till the plastic ones give out. the back wheel still runs smooth and isnt notchy at all.

i DID rebuild the rear wheel before running for the first time which involved;
clutch gap to 2.5
degreased everything and reoiled with tri flow
loctited idler gear bolt (which were loctited from factory)
check idler gears were perpendicular to base plate thingo
shimmered the gyro plate .02mm. as it wouldnt spin long (can use .01 but i didnt have any)
backed off slipper

with so many posts about the negs, i thought id post my positive experience.
the more i drive this bike and get better at it, the more i am enjoying throwing it around.

one of the favs of my fleet at the moment

I like the bike, but all the rebuilding, shimming, gear replacing, re-setting things perpendicular etc. on a new rc is discouraging to say the least. I'll probably get the thing running correctly someday, I'm just sick of working on that wheel assembly, and I need parts Venom does not have spares for yet.
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Old May 07, 2011, 08:18 AM
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with a new product you will get teething issues and a manufacturer can do all the "inhouse" testing they like and they will never get a good understanding of how durable something is until it is in the end users hands.

the pastic gears combined with the settings the bike has from the factory didnt work. venom have been pretty quick to design/develop, tool and manufacture the replacement gears in a very timely manner and also offered their customers replacement at no cost. thats pretty good IMO and they get a smiley stamp from me for this :0)

i pull thinhs apart and rebuild coz i believe i will do a better job than a factroy worker that is under pressure to do "X" per hour.
pre assembled kits are always missing loctite, things arent greased, etc.. always good to pull it apart and check the night before coz you usually cant run it at that time anyway!!

i have many models from junkers to top shelf gear and they ALL need maintenence and repair on an ongoing basis. Big horsepower on small parts is going to mean they wear that much faster

dont be discouraged and sucked in by some of the "bad press" its a solid machine
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