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Old Feb 01, 2011, 11:09 AM
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This should explain.

You can alter your final arm length dependent on how much travel you need. To get travel needed measure from sheet point on deck to sheet point on boom when fully sheeted out to 90deg optimally. Take that measurement and divide by 2. Your arm length from pivot to center of block should be about your new found distance.

Brian
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Old Feb 01, 2011, 11:10 AM
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File didn't work...let me try again..
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Old Feb 01, 2011, 11:19 AM
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This should show up
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Old Feb 01, 2011, 01:22 PM
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Why not just move the boom attachment point forward on the boom? Keep all your servo torque, minus a bit for adjustment, no other messing around.
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Old Feb 01, 2011, 01:47 PM
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Even more information and spreadsheets for arm and drum winch applications. See the R/C section near the bottom of

http://onemetre.net/Build/Build.htm
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Old Feb 01, 2011, 02:58 PM
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Thanks guys.... those help a lot.
jpatters, if your up Little Rock way come sailing with us.

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Old Feb 01, 2011, 03:42 PM
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If you move your sheet point forward it will require more torque to hold the booms in place and you will loose the finer control of the sheet position at close hauled angles...

Brian
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Old Feb 01, 2011, 04:15 PM
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Yes... I had thought of that but knew there would be a trade off.

What battery size (mah) do a lot of people use on say a 1 meter boat with a standard sail winch of about 150 oz ??? Sailing time in medium winds ?

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Old Feb 01, 2011, 04:51 PM
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If the wind's not blowing a gale, as a rough guide, freshly charged 2500 mAh NiMH consumer cells should give you up to 6 hours sailing.
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Old Feb 01, 2011, 04:51 PM
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United States, CA, Temecula
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I just opened up the box with my new Vela inside to find a part of the deck had been re-painted, in attempt to repair a blemish or some damage. Not even a close match! Needless to say, I am very disappointed. Tower Hobbies is sending me a return label and they will ship me another boat, once they receive this one back.

I was very impressed with the packaging. You could put fine crystal in that box and drop it off your garage and it wouldn't break! One thing I did notice was the lines they use to operate the sails is really thin, and lacks substance.
I will be replacing that with some higher grade lines for sure.

With the exception of the lousy paint repair the boat is nicely finished. I saw quite a bit of accessive amounts of glue in the bottom of the hull where the servo tray and other things are attached to the hull. That is as far as I got, before putting it back in the box to ship back to Tower.

Oh well, I hope the next one is in better shape!
Boomer
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Old Feb 01, 2011, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STRINGFLY View Post
...
jpatters, if your up Little Rock way come sailing with us.

Stringfly <>++++
Thanks for the invitation, Stringfly. I'd like to do that. When the weather gets better(probably March), I'll pack up a boat or two and come over. Check with you all later.
Jack
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Old Feb 02, 2011, 07:41 AM
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Sailing.

That would be great jpatters. Or we could come down to you. Where do you sail in Hot Springs ?, I used to live there.

Bummer about the new boat Boomer!!!! At least Tower is good about taking anything back, they always have with me. Hope they you get you fixed up.

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Old Feb 02, 2011, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomer1 View Post
One thing I did notice was the lines they use to operate the sails is really thin, and lacks substance.
I will be replacing that with some higher grade lines for sure.

Boomer
The lines appear to be up to the task with this boat. They are braided line and performed well for me last trip out

Just trash those tiny wire snaps with nice grade of crane swivel snaps and head to the weather mark
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Old Feb 02, 2011, 08:59 PM
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For about $0.12 per boat, this thing will rock. A disclaimer - such change would be best utilized with a radio that can set end points on the servos. I will not be responsible for any carnage caused directly or indirectly should someone decide to try these revisions.

As those who have read my post know, I was not having success tuning my sails to achieve the manual recommended 80 degree target for releasing the main and jib. I could achieve that target, but at the expense of not achieving 0 or 5-8 degree out when the main sail was close hauled.

After reading many rigging suggestions, master constructor documents, and rigging patterns from all scales of rc boats,as well as contemplating a Sail Winch Drum Servo setup, I decided to try a simple test of changing the kit rigging from Single Haul Line on the Sail Arm, to a Double Haul setup using the kit sail arm. My simple test equipment included a single Screw Eye like one would use to attach hanging wire to a picture frame (pic attached "the fix"). This may not be my official mount of choice. The plywood radio tray material is thin, and the screw eye is not threaded completely to the loop. So it needs more wood to thread into to be effective. One could simple drill small hole behind the big hole in the radio tray to thread the sail line thru and tie off on itself.

I initially rigged the sails using the Kit Single Haul setup and trimmed the Main Sail to achieve 80 Degrees (illustrated on the deck with Bright Green tape) outhaul After rigging the main (pic SH Trimmed 80 all out), I then moved the sail arm to the full forward (approx 155 degrees of travel) position. The pic "SH All In rigged for 80" shows the max close hauled Main Boom location I could achieve. Result for Sailing, you have to decide which part of the course you want to be at a disadvantage, Weather Leg or Downwind.

Then I removed the Sail control lines. This was necessary to have enough Line to complete my experiment. The single line sail set up has approx 19 Inches of line from the Sail Arm to the Main/Jib Y location. The Main line is then another 23.5 Inches of extension, the Jib 39 Inches from the Y point.

I re inserted the 23.5" over the rollers and into the hull, thru the attachment location of the Servo Sail Arm (inserted from top side) and tied off to the "Fix", followed by a temporaty location point on the radio tray (pic "DH Line Fixed to Radio Tray"). I rigged the line thru the top of the the servo sail arm, then tied off to the screw eye so the line would not cross on itself. Picture the Radio Tray tie off location being the lowest point, the servo sail arm middle point, and the deck guide the highest point the Sail Line will travel exiting the hull.

Next I adjusted the Sail Arm so I could Rig the Main Boom for 80 Degree out as illustrated in pic "DH All Out 80", then moved the Sail Arm to see if it would inhaul the boom to desired close hauled.

See pic "DH Main Close Hauled" for the result. And it only required 105 Degrees of servo travel to accomplish the task.

Now I need to pick up a spool of Sail Line and rig up a new set of Lines for my sail arm. May rig each Sail Line (Main and Jib) two lines all the way thru the Sail Arm. I believe the kit supplied line will thread thru the hull guide with out binding. Then Finalize location/type and install/create the Attachment point for the Sail Line. I dont believe a block is required although nice to have. The Sail Arm hole (plastic) can be prepped to allow the line(s) to smoothly flow without harming it.

RESULT: Now I have maximum sail travel I desired for Downwind, Weather Mark, and Reaches.

Does this resolve every issue? Probably not. In fact it may create others since this is a single line double sail rigging, some of the stern mounted line guides are too small for the Main/Jib knot you have to create, and the Y in the line is beyond the Traveler Ring when outhauled. Result could be the Jib could fight the Main Trim tugging the Line and Vice Verse when outhauled Wing to Wing on down wind runs. Does the AQ Sail Servo have enough Torque on 4.8 volts to haul in the sails at the pressure which may increase being extended further? Will the servo last on 6.0volts? Guess we will just have to find out as we continue sea trials before race day.

But for now, we will see if she carries more speed and remains controlled on down wind runs as revised. And let the Team China and Team Seawind wonder how they will compete against the Vela - SUNDAY!!!!

PS - If your going to do this with the kit radio (ie one without End Point Adjustment features), install the Sail Arm on the servo with the TX control gimble and trim tab all down, with the Sail Arm using the Keel/Deck Support tube as the endpoint stop. Then rig your lines accordingly. The Keel/Deck support inside the hull will prevent your Sail Arm from pulling the Line "Y" inside the deck guide astern.

Next few tweaks -
* Line guide to prevent Jib Line Fouling on the Mast Step
* Additional Weatherstripping on the two hatch covers (just n case thats a source of water intrusion)
* A few O-Ring Seals for the Rudder Post and Keel Post (below the water line, some cheap insurance to prevent water intrusion)
* Adding a Drain Plug
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Last edited by JDCrow; Feb 03, 2011 at 01:14 AM.
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Old Feb 03, 2011, 12:39 AM
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Arkansas USA
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238 Posts
Drain Plug Options

I'm thinking of adding either the ProBoat Models style drainplug like I have on my Stiletto Tunnel Hull (rubber ring seal with Aluminum plug held in by pressure of the rubber), or the Aquacraft plastic style with T-Tag as I have on my AQ Vegas Deuce hydro.

Either should provide a well sealed hole that can easily be opened to let any water taken in to be simply drained from the boat while its fully rigged. Placement would be deckside at the stern.
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