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Old Jan 20, 2013, 06:56 PM
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United States, NC, Lexington
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Originally Posted by IndyMatt View Post
How do you sand the Z foam smooth, it got a little fuzzy on me redoing the fuse. I got the dings filled with spackle, maybe need to get some finer sandpaper.
I had to put a coat or 2 of paint on and then sand. Then it was more paint and sand again. Took quite a few times before I got the right finish. It's like you kept getting little edges sticking up on the foam. Would be nice if there's a better way.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ForsheeMS View Post
I had to put a coat or 2 of paint on and then sand. Then it was more paint and sand again. Took quite a few times before I got the right finish. It's like you kept getting little edges sticking up on the foam. Would be nice if there's a better way.
Brushing on some polycrylic, like Minwax, on the rough areas and the spackle filled spots, helps to tame the frayed foam and achieve a finish more like the surrounding factory foam finish. You still need to light sand but, you'll end up with a smooth surface when you paint it.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 09:20 AM
I can fix it.
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Cochranton, Pa.
Joined Nov 2005
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I had so much trouble that I am considering painting over the existing decals. Has anyone tried that?
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 10:43 AM
Chop it, cut it, bash it
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United States, CA, La Caņada Flintridge
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They are easy to peel off. Use a hair dryer to help heat them up before peeling. I wouldn't recommend painting over them. You could paint around them if you use mask. I think that would be a PIA though.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 10:46 AM
Chop it, cut it, bash it
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United States, CA, La Caņada Flintridge
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Here is my method, but it takes time. I usually don't strip the paint off. Too much work. I usually use light spackle and dip my finger in glass of water and then rub the surface to put a very watery coat of light spackle on. I usually wait a day between coats--two. I sand between coats with 320 wet/dry lightly and end with 600grit. Surface details can complicate this procedure, but be careful not to sand anything off you want to keep. I fill all panel lines and sand off rivets on my foam planes because they are usually exaggerated and look phony. I then coat the plane with polycrylic or equivalent and let dry a day. I now come back and paint the panel lines back on. Using Chart Tape on top of the panel lines I make all the panel lines in 1/32 inch. I then paint with primer{gray} and let dry for a day or two until I can't smell it up close. Sand with 600 grit and then top coat with your finish color. Be aware that there are different green and blue tapes. Always buy "Delicate surface". I can't find Frog Tape in my area, but have had great success with 3M blue delicate. I also use Bob Dively liquid mask, but only on previously unpainted surfaces. My technique is very labor intensive and may not be for everyone.
Attached Thumbnails

Name: P-47 chart tape 2012-12-30 004.jpg Views: 14 Size: 154.7 KB Description: Panel lines drawn with Shapie and then chart tape on top Panel lines drawn with Shapie and then chart tape on top 154.7 KB · Views: 14

Name: P-47 cockpit 2013-01-06 002.jpg Views: 20 Size: 102.5 KB Description: finished panel lines on the right. Left still being lightly sanded and then lifted off
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:00 PM
Chop it, cut it, bash it
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http://news.3m.com/press-release/com...r-and-paintingHere is a brand new product from 3m that looks promising. Might have to give this a try if I can find it. Might speed up the time it takes to fill the gator.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:05 PM
Diverted by planks
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South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
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Originally Posted by quitcherbitchen View Post
http://news.3m.com/press-release/com...r-and-paintingHere is a brand new product from 3m that looks promising. Might have to give this a try if I can find it. Might speed up the time it takes to fill the gator.
I'm not usually a 'brand aware' type of shopper, but I'll tell ya -- the boys (and girls) down there at 3M labs always seem to have the coolest and best-working stuff.

I'm even on their new products e-newsletter, and usually, I hate to get on any sort of mailing list.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:18 PM
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Indianapolis, IN
Joined Oct 2010
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Thanks for those tips! I don't think I will be filling the panel lines but some ding and dent repair is needed on the fuse.

Do you guys coat your planes with water based poly acrylic for durability?
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:30 PM
I Toast Planes
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Has anyone used Gorilla glue on this plane?
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:58 PM
Chop it, cut it, bash it
quitcherbitchen's Avatar
United States, CA, La Caņada Flintridge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyMatt View Post
Thanks for those tips! I don't think I will be filling the panel lines but some ding and dent repair is needed on the fuse.

Do you guys coat your planes with water based poly acrylic for durability?
That's is one of my steps after I spackle. I am hoping the new 3M stuff makes that unnecessary.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 04:50 PM
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United States, NY, Schenectady
Joined Sep 2009
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Stock PZ 15 motor, 3s w/10.5x9.5(e-flite 300 prop) = 34 amps, 400 watts

The above with 4 cell, 9x9 apc sport prop=37 amps, 575 watts.

You may not want to run stock prop (9.5x7.5) with 4s............43 amps, 660 watts which will damage this motor.

This is "burst" /static data.

I also posted this in the PZ Spitfire thread.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 05:06 PM
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Canada, ON, Iroquois
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With this being such a huge thread, and me feeling a tad lazy tonight I was just wondering if anyone had programmed in flaperons on their P-47. I know it is flap ready and I intend to add them, its just that my local shop doesn't have any servos in stock that will do the job right now

I just want to add a touch of flaps so I can fly at a reduced speed that my camera person can follow and not have to worry about stalling

Thanks
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 05:34 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Originally Posted by SG Mason Knives View Post
With this being such a huge thread, and me feeling a tad lazy tonight I was just wondering if anyone had programmed in flaperons on their P-47. I know it is flap ready and I intend to add them, its just that my local shop doesn't have any servos in stock that will do the job right now

I just want to add a touch of flaps so I can fly at a reduced speed that my camera person can follow and not have to worry about stalling

Thanks
Yes it can be done, however. Flaperons on planes with ailerons only on the outboard portion of the wing is a bad idea. It increases the AoA of the outboard portion of the wing meaning neg wash-out. This means that the outside portion of the wing will stall first. So the first thing you'll lose is control authority in roll and that will probably quickly progress to a spin. The Jug can fly pretty slow with no flaps, are you formation flying? or is the camera person just standing beside you?
In my experience a person standing beside you will lose the plane unless there is a predetermined pattern you are going to fly. Even full flaps won't prevent this.

-Brian
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 07:39 PM
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Canada, ON, Iroquois
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Yes it can be done, however. Flaperons on planes with ailerons only on the outboard portion of the wing is a bad idea. It increases the AoA of the outboard portion of the wing meaning neg wash-out. This means that the outside portion of the wing will stall first. So the first thing you'll lose is control authority in roll and that will probably quickly progress to a spin. The Jug can fly pretty slow with no flaps, are you formation flying? or is the camera person just standing beside you?
In my experience a person standing beside you will lose the plane unless there is a predetermined pattern you are going to fly. Even full flaps won't prevent this.

-Brian
Thanks, guess that I wont be giving it a try then. The real problem is that my camera man sucks, as soon as he hits the shutter he either stops following or slows right down. Guess I am just going to have to work with him more or find a new camera man. The other choice is to try mount a DSLR to my hat
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 10:05 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SG Mason Knives View Post
Thanks, guess that I wont be giving it a try then. The real problem is that my camera man sucks, as soon as he hits the shutter he either stops following or slows right down. Guess I am just going to have to work with him more or find a new camera man. The other choice is to try mount a DSLR to my hat
Look at this one:

a la: Kevin Greene from the UMX Mig thread

-Brian
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