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Old Jan 24, 2011, 10:54 PM
I'm a Registered User
Evansville, WI
Joined Dec 2006
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Does anyone happen to know at what tempretature EPS beads fuse? I have this idea... If I partially fill the female mold with EPS beads, (making sure all the surfaces are covered), clamp everything together, and put it in the oven. If I get it to the fusion temperature, I should have a nice completed part once it's cooled...in theory...
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Old Jan 24, 2011, 11:17 PM
Hals und Beinbruch !!!!
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Joined Aug 2002
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are these pre expanded beads or raw new beads ( good luck finding a supplier). I had an idea of using pre expanded beads mixed with very light resin mixed with alcohol compressed in a mold. Who knows....
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Old Jan 24, 2011, 11:29 PM
yes my thermal gogles are on
Roy!!'s Avatar
Ocala,Fla
Joined Jan 2009
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ima try this method to make a glider using a 5-10g brushless it would deffinitley look btter then a 4 sided square fuse
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Old Jan 25, 2011, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by lw_hughes View Post
are these pre expanded beads or raw new beads ( good luck finding a supplier). I had an idea of using pre expanded beads mixed with very light resin mixed with alcohol compressed in a mold. Who knows....
I found a supplier of raw beads a very long time ago. I'll go find the link.
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Old Jan 25, 2011, 06:17 AM
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United States, GA, Buford
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Here you go. The link is within my thread (first page). $25 for 6 cubic feet.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ight=eps+beads
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Old Jan 25, 2011, 11:57 AM
Thanks for the Fish!
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Land of cajuns
Joined Dec 2001
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A HUGE thank you to all of you who have posted experience, ideas & advice onto this thread. Without it I feel I would not have been able to build my first moulded depron plane to my own satisfaction.

Its a 1/32 scale Messerschmitt Bf109E-4N with a 310mm wingspan and weighing in at 22.2g (inc. undercarriage) - a little over what I wanted by 6-7g but we'll see how this affects flight performance. Only managed to do glide tests so far.

I rather overdid it on the airbrushing as it's the first time I've ever used one so the weathering is heavy and I estimate the acrylic paint has added 2-3g to the weight.

Anyway, thanks to all of you guys with a special mention to Aerogel. I completed the wheels and spinner today using the exact same method you described back on pages 5-6 and they came out brilliantly.
Looks Sweet paint job look's awesome glad it work out for you...any hoot ,you guys are killing me can't wait to get back to my shop soon very soon.
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Old Jan 25, 2011, 12:26 PM
Build it again, Sam!
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Germany
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just create a positive plug and put it on a block of wood ... put it in clear shrink tube for batteries and take the heatgun to shrink it to form ....
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Old Jan 25, 2011, 04:56 PM
Microaces Wingman
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UK. Dorset
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by lw_hughes View Post
pacer canopy glue is excellent drys clear and cleans up with water...fantastic results..can you post some images of your molds etc.
LW - I'm putting the full build log here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1377747

But here's a few more pics from during the build....thanks for tha canopy advice too. I'm definately gonna have to fit it to the next one now arent I!?
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Old Jan 25, 2011, 05:43 PM
yes my thermal gogles are on
Roy!!'s Avatar
Ocala,Fla
Joined Jan 2009
335 Posts
ok so im going to go get my supplies i take it to make your male and female you just make the female then when it is done put a release compound on it and then pour your mold material on it to male the male? then seperate the 2
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Old Jan 25, 2011, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Roy!! View Post
ok so im going to go get my supplies i take it to make your male and female you just make the female then when it is done put a release compound on it and then pour your mold material on it to male the male? then seperate the 2
Thats how i do it...
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Old Jan 26, 2011, 03:05 AM
Microaces Wingman
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I actually do it a bit different. Once I've made the female mold I cover it loosely with food wrap - we call it cling film in the UK. I then insert the plastic part I used for creating the female mold back into the cavity, sandwiching the film between the plastic and the mold - essentially the film is acting as the release agent here. I build a box around the female mold using Lego, tucking the film under beforehand. I then pour in the plaster and create the male. This means when the two halves of the mould come completely together there's a minimum of 1mm gap for the depron to form into, in an attempt not to over press the foam.

Make sense?

I'm going to go into more detail on the build thread. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1377747 Getting the right type of plaster is a must as well.
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Old Jan 26, 2011, 03:38 AM
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Good info

Depends what thickness foam one is using... if using thin stuff like 025-020 the a 1to1 mold is needed.. then the critical areas especially around the joining lines are sanded... for the larger molds wax can also be used, but i like db's cling wrap idea better
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Old Jan 26, 2011, 05:24 AM
Microaces Wingman
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UK. Dorset
Joined Jun 2009
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true, true Heliman - I'm using 2mm & 3mm depron at the moment for fuse. There doesnt seem to be any weight difference btween them once the parts are prepped. Need more than one decimal place on the digiscales m'thinks.
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Old Jan 26, 2011, 11:25 AM
yes my thermal gogles are on
Roy!!'s Avatar
Ocala,Fla
Joined Jan 2009
335 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbird View Post
I actually do it a bit different. Once I've made the female mold I cover it loosely with food wrap - we call it cling film in the UK. I then insert the plastic part I used for creating the female mold back into the cavity, sandwiching the film between the plastic and the mold - essentially the film is acting as the release agent here. I build a box around the female mold using Lego, tucking the film under beforehand. I then pour in the plaster and create the male. This means when the two halves of the mould come completely together there's a minimum of 1mm gap for the depron to form into, in an attempt not to over press the foam.

Make sense?

I'm going to go into more detail on the build thread. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1377747 Getting the right type of plaster is a must as well.
for what im doing i will make a plug for each half of the fuse then make me female so i don;t have a part to put back over the female to create the gap but i guess a little sanding will do the trick then i will just cut a foam wing with a foam core wing machine i have
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Old Jan 26, 2011, 08:30 PM
I'm a Registered User
Evansville, WI
Joined Dec 2006
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I like the idea of cling wrap as a parting agent, I'm going to have to give it a try
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