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Old Jul 25, 2011, 09:59 AM
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United States, GA, Newnan
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Originally Posted by helicow View Post
Any pictures? or maybe more details? Thanks


+1 what helicow said! Pics, details pls for taller LG!

thx bro
Jeff
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Old Jul 25, 2011, 10:42 AM
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Birmingham, Alabama
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Originally Posted by kola View Post
Any recommendations for upgraded landing gear?
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Originally Posted by tonytonso View Post
I ve bent mine to make it taller. it takes several bends to make everything square again once you do this but it is well worth it. all the others that have this plane have done it too after they saw my results. It looks better cause its sitting right and the prop is the proper clearance off the ground now.
Agreed! The stock gear is... The size is fine, the stiffness is not there. Too springy!

An easy, old school trick you can do is to solder/braze/glue some steel wire in an X fashion to reduce the spring in the gear without adding weight. Attach one near the wheel end of one leg & attach the other end near the fuselage of the OPPOSITE leg.
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Old Jul 25, 2011, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Toysrme View Post
Agreed! The stock gear is... The size is fine, the stiffness is not there. Too springy!

An easy, old school trick you can do is to solder/braze/glue some steel wire in an X fashion to reduce the spring in the gear without adding weight. Attach one near the wheel end of one leg & attach the other end near the fuselage of the OPPOSITE leg.


Hmmmm....with the pounding I give my LG I can't imagine any glue holding...solder/braze...aint got the tools

Since this metal is meant to resist deformation (and thus spring back to shape, regardless of temporary forces applied), I was wondering if somebody'd figured out a new trick to reshaping the gear to make it taller...?
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Old Jul 25, 2011, 10:48 AM
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Incident #2 for my yak. A friend and i were playing "who's plane can spin 360 circles on the road the fastest". yak vs parkmaster 3D. yak ran away with it. i was the smarter... driver... i did my turns against engine torque. unfortunately i eventually snagged my outside aileron on the pavement & chunked it out. which is good, considering i did the exact same thing to the other aileron immediately after it's maiden.

now they match =D

That's another minor tweak (not this in particular) but many foam aircraft should take from balsa models. some form of plastic wingtip protector for pavement. This plane wont impact on the chord, it impacts on the aileron tip hah
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Old Jul 25, 2011, 10:57 AM
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Ohhhh I bet if you did it correctly 30 minute epoxy would more than hold it. This 3 pound plane is nothing. It'd hold easily if you did it right. Long ago steel wire pre-stressing wire landing gear was a very common build practice.
Cross bracing was popular, but the MOST popular way to do it in sport planes was to:
1) Epoxy in your main landing gear
2) Get 5 FEET of steel line
3) Wrap between both wires as tightly against the fuselage as possible until the wire deforms
4) Coat the entire thing in 30 minute epoxy
This is probably the most common build method on this type of fuse mounted, 1 wire bent landing gear on .049-.60 sized trainers & sport planes through the 80's in planes up through the 7pound range.

Not that it was better than anything else, it was just cheap & common. Plus, all those nitro planes, the weight wasn't really a consideration. If a .60 class plane came out a half pound heavy, that just meant it landed in the wind that much better.
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Old Jul 25, 2011, 01:18 PM
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Pennsylvania
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Originally Posted by poiyt View Post
Hmmmm....with the pounding I give my LG I can't imagine any glue holding...solder/braze...aint got the tools

Since this metal is meant to resist deformation (and thus spring back to shape, regardless of temporary forces applied), I was wondering if somebody'd figured out a new trick to reshaping the gear to make it taller...?
You can bend it taller, just have to bend it past the point that it will permanently bend. I don't think the stock gear is that bad, I fly off of rough and clumpy, although short grass, and never have any problems. I did bend the tailwheel wire down a bit, and swapped in a 1.25" wheel for about an inch or so more ground clearance to the counterbalances on the stab, haven't ripped one off since I did that.

The old wire trick with gear stiffened it a good bit, actually a bit too well, while takeoffs and landings had less bounce, it put a lot more stress on the gear plate and airframe. Most of the older balsa glow planes have bent sheetmetal gear, thick wire, or similar due to usually having a plane around 20-30oz per sq ft, so things like building up the gear were neccesary, and even then a hard landing broke balsa stringers and more when the plane dropped hard. Now, we have .40-60 sized planes under 4lbs, and 1lb per sq/ft is considered by many to be "heavy". The stock gear is stiff enough to land nicely with a decent landing, and pancake with a hard landing, taking a lot of stress off of the airframe. Stiffening it may help keep it from bending, but then you stand a good chance of having the $3 gear wire stay in shape, and the $35 fuse crack in half. If it is that much of an issue, just take off the wheel pants, use larger tires, and either bend up taller gear from some spring wire stock, or straighten the stock wire to get more height.
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Old Jul 25, 2011, 04:40 PM
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I gave it a shot. I straightened the legs and pulled them closer together.

I also bent the tail wheel a little so it raised the tail some.


Will let you know how it works.

I do have some questions regarding my batteries. Maybe they are just getting old, but they are not actually that old. Lately after just a couple minutes of harriers, easy flying (maybe not enough) but nothing I have not done in the past, I get the pulsing of the motor and have little or no power.

Is this a sign batteries are worn out or is there something else I should look into? Thanks

Bob
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Old Jul 25, 2011, 08:28 PM
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United States, CA, Roseville
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Originally Posted by helicow View Post
I gave it a shot. I straightened the legs and pulled them closer together.

I also bent the tail wheel a little so it raised the tail some.


Will let you know how it works.

Bob
you're going to love it. makes such a big difference
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by alucard0822 View Post
You can bend it taller, just have to bend it past the point that it will permanently bend. I don't think the stock gear is that bad, I fly off of rough and clumpy, although short grass, and never have any problems. I did bend the tailwheel wire down a bit, and swapped in a 1.25" wheel for about an inch or so more ground clearance to the counterbalances on the stab, haven't ripped one off since I did that.

The old wire trick with gear stiffened it a good bit, actually a bit too well, while takeoffs and landings had less bounce, it put a lot more stress on the gear plate and airframe. Most of the older balsa glow planes have bent sheetmetal gear, thick wire, or similar due to usually having a plane around 20-30oz per sq ft, so things like building up the gear were neccesary, and even then a hard landing broke balsa stringers and more when the plane dropped hard. Now, we have .40-60 sized planes under 4lbs, and 1lb per sq/ft is considered by many to be "heavy". The stock gear is stiff enough to land nicely with a decent landing, and pancake with a hard landing, taking a lot of stress off of the airframe. Stiffening it may help keep it from bending, but then you stand a good chance of having the $3 gear wire stay in shape, and the $35 fuse crack in half. If it is that much of an issue, just take off the wheel pants, use larger tires, and either bend up taller gear from some spring wire stock, or straighten the stock wire to get more height.


Spot-on, once again. I'm guessing the designers made the LG this springy precisely b/c it's a foamie...and hard landings can compress/deform/crack foam in a hurry.

For me, anywhoo, it makes landings and T&G's a bit bouncy (ok, a LOT bouncy)...but I must say...when I do grease one in there's that slight sense of accomplishment...
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by poiyt View Post
Spot-on, once again. I'm guessing the designers made the LG this springy precisely b/c it's a foamie...and hard landings can compress/deform/crack foam in a hurry.

For me, anywhoo, it makes landings and T&G's a bit bouncy (ok, a LOT bouncy)...but I must say...when I do grease one in there's that slight sense of accomplishment...
The stock gear wire measures .137 or 3.5mm. If you go taller, and keep wire of that size, you will have lower spring rates, so the plane will probably bounce MORE, can't make it too much stiffer, or else you endanger the fuse. However, 5/32" music wire at .156" will fit, just barely. A 36" peice of it is only $2-$3. Just bend it up with a wire tool, vise and hammer, or even a big crecent wrench, cut the flats on the ends for the stock wheel pant screws with a dremmel, or just run wheels and collars, can probably go a couple inches taller with about the same ammount of spring to it, or even have it a little stiffer. Thing is, with any gear, you have to land pretty gently, or else a plane with a lot of wing area will bounce back up. You also can deinitely feel the ground effect of the Yak, about 2' off the ground, it just seems to float, being there is additional pressure under the wings, the air is getting compressed aggainst the ground,. It can take a little finesse to push through ground effect and land, instead of floating along with it, and then the model drops hard on the gear when it stalls. Landing faster bumps the gear that is ahead of the CG, pitches the plane back up into ground effect, and you get a bounce, although that is much better than it biting into the grass, and flipping the plane on it's rudder.
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Old Jul 26, 2011, 05:02 PM
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Gold Coast Coolangata, Australia
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Originally Posted by Atomicglow View Post
Please see the video I posted on YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8GTwXgSvMc

During a flight we lost a canopy (Bad glue) and made a provisional landing. The plane had some issues with directional control which we thought may have been some aerodynamic issues with loss of the canopy. To our chagrin, when we examined the plane on the ground it became apparent that the rudder control arm became separated from the clavis. Apparently, the plastic threads on the clavis could not contain the metal threads of the control arm and became stripped. I wonder if similar problems may be causing uncontrolled flight into the ground if this happens with ailerons or elevators. Thoughts?
O'boy, something else to keep an eye on, lol! I checked all mine and they seem ok for now. Thanks for the heads up.

I suspect that these cheap plastic clevises degrade over time esp. if your Yak is exposed to a lot of sun and heat (stored in hot car or garage).

I also noticed that they are pretty easy to turn/adjust, even when they are new. So I think that they may be a bit over-tapped to begin with. Better quality Dubro clevises are always a bit on the tight side and hence harder to turn/adjust but at least they stay put for life!

Cheers,
TomC
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Old Jul 27, 2011, 11:42 PM
Kyle
Barrie
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Hey guys. Has anyone combined all the known quality issues into one post sometime in this thread? About to purchase one and want to look it over at the LHS.
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Old Jul 27, 2011, 11:46 PM
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Hey guys. Has anyone combined all the known quality issues into one post sometime in this thread? About to purchase one and want to look it over at the LHS.
I think there are some, but they are just big BXXXX sessions. get it, run it. Its a good flying plane. Me and 2 other buddies each have over 100 flights with none of the issues described in them. Just dont expect the plane to be something it is not...a $600 setup
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Old Jul 28, 2011, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Mockshizzy View Post
Hey guys. Has anyone combined all the known quality issues into one post sometime in this thread? About to purchase one and want to look it over at the LHS.
Like Tony says, not too many really major issues for most of us. Most things you'll pick up on when you give it a good inspection, like all good modellers, before flying it. Main things I suggest to pay attention to are;

- Check/tighten all motor mounting screws and check servo mounts
- If you have difficulty properly balancing the stock prop (main quality issue imho), replace the stock prop with a apc 12x6e (or 13x4e for a little slower flying speed) and make sure you properly balance these as well
- Use the fully threaded bolts for the wings and the shouldered ones on the elevator. This is not in the instruction manual
- if your strip is a little lumpy/bumpy ditch the wheel pants and use larger 3 inch light weight wheels. I also went to a slightly larger/cushier tail wheel.

These are the main things I've found out. So far I really love this plane and I'm sure you will too.

Cheers,
TomC
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Old Jul 28, 2011, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by TomC View Post
Like Tony says, not too many really major issues for most of us. Most things you'll pick up on when you give it a good inspection, like all good modellers, before flying it. Main things I suggest to pay attention to are;

- Check/tighten all motor mounting screws and check servo mounts
- If you have difficulty properly balancing the stock prop (main quality issue imho), replace the stock prop with a apc 12x6e (or 13x4e for a little slower flying speed) and make sure you properly balance these as well
- Use the fully threaded bolts for the wings and the shouldered ones on the elevator. This is not in the instruction manual
- if your strip is a little lumpy/bumpy ditch the wheel pants and use larger 3 inch light weight wheels. I also went to a slightly larger/cushier tail wheel.

These are the main things I've found out. So far I really love this plane and I'm sure you will too.

Cheers,
TomC
A Discussion member almost was killed when hit by the prop flying off...Mine came off and almost went through my trailer..IT BENT the MOTOR shaft...
Changed the collet to the type WITH a set screw...
I would also replace the elevator servo with a HS82MG or simaler
GOOD LUCK... Walt
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