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Old Jul 09, 2011, 11:47 AM
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four stroke pwr's Avatar
United States, FL, Orlando
Joined Feb 2004
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Quote:
I removed the small screw and bolt to make some fine adjustments to the clevis, and when i put the nut and bolt back on I only tightened them untill the nut made contact with the plastic, then maybe 1/8 of a turn more. So barely snug. Then while I was working on the rest of the plane, one aileron horn just disintegrated, then the other one did too.
Wow, word for word, that is what happened to mine as well..
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Old Jul 09, 2011, 12:22 PM
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xxxcellarator's Avatar
Toronto, Canada
Joined Nov 2009
655 Posts
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Originally Posted by four stroke pwr View Post
Wow, word for word, that is what happened to mine as well..
Yup, it's a case of bad material choise, it's not a QC issue. So the exact same thing will happen to everyone. The moment you squeeze the nut even the smallest amount, the brittle plastic will just crack.

Since the horns on the tail do not need to get tightened down on, they shouldn't crack, even though they are just as brittle.
However, even an impact to the horns could cause them to crack since they are so brittle.

I will post some pics later on of the mod that I did to my ailerons, so that I didn't have to remove the stock horns and install new ones.
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Old Jul 09, 2011, 04:40 PM
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GetSome!'s Avatar
United States, CA, Roseville
Joined Jan 2011
666 Posts
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Originally Posted by Fish99 View Post
I don't YET own the CZ (looking hard at it or the Extra 300 in the next week or two) but HH uses a lot of that white stuff, looks to me to be some sort of silcone based adhesive ... anyone found something like it?

Marlin
Had both of those planes...still have the YAK. It is head and shoulders above the Extra in every way imaginable. too bad cause the Extra is a good looking model. Anyway, I use the clear RTV silicone....it works the same and is soft just like HH's white stuff
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Old Jul 09, 2011, 06:17 PM
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Gold Coast Coolangata, Australia
Joined Nov 2003
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Originally Posted by crobar View Post
I found that the threaded brass "nut" that is recessed into the plastic pieces had pulled up and out of the plastic. I'm thinking that if the two attachment screws had been of the shouldered type it would have prevented the screw from pulling the brass "nut" out of the plastic piece.

Thanks
I managed to do the same thing by overtightening the shouldered bolts. I just used some CA and press fitted the blind nuts back into the plastic recess.

Cheers,
TomC
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Old Jul 09, 2011, 09:41 PM
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Joined Apr 2011
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Originally Posted by jrgnd View Post
Anyone know where I can find a new fuselage???...Everywhere I check they are out of stock...
Anyone?
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Old Jul 10, 2011, 06:21 AM
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United States, ID, Sandpoint
Joined Apr 2009
749 Posts
Thanks for the responses re; the elevator attachments and the rubber type of glue. I wasn't sure how well CA would work with a joining of plastic and metal so I defaulted to epoxy. Still learning how and when to use CA.
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Old Jul 10, 2011, 02:55 PM
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United States, CA, Roseville
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Originally Posted by jrgnd View Post
Anyone?
Theyre in stock at horizonhobby.com
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Old Jul 10, 2011, 04:32 PM
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Gold Coast Coolangata, Australia
Joined Nov 2003
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Originally Posted by tonytonso View Post
Theyre in stock at horizonhobby.com
These Fuz's are showing backorder, avail late July 2011;

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=EFL1008003

Our local Oz dealer has them in stock but they are a lot more expensive (+$20) and freight (guess ~$30) won't be cheap either;

http://www.modelflight.com.au/produc...Z-8471-64.html

Cheers,
TomC
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Old Jul 10, 2011, 08:33 PM
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Joined Apr 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonytonso View Post
Theyre in stock at horizonhobby.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomC View Post
These Fuz's are showing backorder, avail late July 2011;

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=EFL1008003

Our local Oz dealer has them in stock but they are a lot more expensive (+$20) and freight (guess ~$30) won't be cheap either;

http://www.modelflight.com.au/produc...Z-8471-64.html

Cheers,
TomC
Thank you....
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Old Jul 11, 2011, 10:19 AM
Crash & Burn
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Glastonbury, CT
Joined Nov 2004
2,502 Posts
I'm really enjoying my YAK. Anyone know if HH is going to be coming out with and Extra, Edge, or MX2?
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Old Jul 11, 2011, 02:15 PM
Gravity gets me down.
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USA, FL, Brooksville
Joined Jan 2008
1,393 Posts
Would like opinions on this.

I finally bent the motor shaft, and was able to get one set screw out. The other, I have heated with a soldering iron and a propane torch - it is not partially stripped and apparently part of the motor.

I am going to attempt to cut a notch in it so I can use a flat head screw driver, which I know will also notch the back of the motor - but for now, that is probably my best bet.

Anyways, I am looking for a new motor. E-Flite is last on my list right now. I have seen a couple guys reference HC Turnigy motors, but those are back ordered.

Long time ago, boatdoc recommended the Hacker A30-12L. Not questioning his knowledge, I am just not comfortable with the specs on these. I have heard they are very UNDER rated, but really not sure this is the best choice.

So here is my list so far.
  • Turnigy 3025-850kv 1300w (182g )
  • Turnigy 3648 Brushless Motor 850kv (136g)
  • NTM Prop Drive 35-48 Series 900KV 815W (171g)
  • Hacker A30-12L V2 500W, 1000 RPM (143g)
  • Hacker A30-12XL V2 650W, 700 RPM (176g)
  • Motrolfly 2820-950 1000W 950KV (152g)
  • Motrolfly 2825-650 820W 767KV (182g)

Seems to me, if I am gong to get a new motor, Hacker or Motrolfly may be the better choice long term. The future is 3DHS (or similar) so would like to be able to reuse it also.

Besides the Turnigys, which has some data posted here, what are your thoughts?

Should any be removed from the list?

Thanks,
Bob
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Old Jul 11, 2011, 02:19 PM
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United States, FL, Winter Springs
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Carbon-Z PnP for Sale $200 LPU: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1464707
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Old Jul 11, 2011, 02:28 PM
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Toronto, Canada
Joined Nov 2009
655 Posts
This weekend we had absolutely amazing weather, so I got a chance to fly the Yak for quite a bit (8 packs through it). I now have 30 battery packs through the Yak and am REALLY loving the plane. Although I should add, this is my very first 3D/acrobatic plane.

I am extremely happy with the power system too. I am now running the Turnigy 3648-850 motor with Zippy 2200 5S batteris and APC Style (HK) 13x4 prop. The wattmeter shows about 1400 watts on first powerup to full throttle. It runs and sounds very smooth and runs very cool, even with 1400watts. Yesterday it was over 30C outside and extremely humid and only then did the motor get hot, but not too hot.

I have been able to nail down some easy(Knife Edge, Tumbles) and some slightly harder acrobtic moves(Knife Edge Spins - these look AMAZING!, Flat Spins, Blenders) and they are very impressive. I am still working on the Hover and Harriers, I find it very easy to stall doing these tricks. Practice makes perfect though

Here are the pictures I said I would post of how I did the aileron horns. They are basically skid plates that were cut to the same shape as the stock horn. I chose to do this instead of removing the old horns and adding new ones since I don't have to worry about figuring out how ot install them or if they will work as well as the originals(from a stand point of the shape). I drilled the holes for better grip for the epoxy. Also, because the ball end that the clevis attaches to is now shifted to the outside of the wing, the rod and clevis are positioned much straighter instead of being angled (notive the rod is 90 degrees to the servo arm). This allows for better movement of the ailerons. Also notice that I added epoxy over a larger area for extra insurance that the horns aren't going to pull out.
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Old Jul 11, 2011, 02:59 PM
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xxxcellarator's Avatar
Toronto, Canada
Joined Nov 2009
655 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by helicow View Post
Would like opinions on this.

I finally bent the motor shaft, and was able to get one set screw out. The other, I have heated with a soldering iron and a propane torch - it is not partially stripped and apparently part of the motor.

I am going to attempt to cut a notch in it so I can use a flat head screw driver, which I know will also notch the back of the motor - but for now, that is probably my best bet.
I once had a problem with a hex screw in a differential gear on a Monster Truck. I almost gave up on the idea of taking it out and the last thing that I though about was to try drilling the screw but counter-clockwise. The high force of the drill bit forced the screw out with ease and the threads were untouched. Might be worth a shot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by helicow View Post
So here is my list so far.
  • Turnigy 3025-850kv 1300w (182g )
  • Turnigy 3648 Brushless Motor 850kv (136g)
  • NTM Prop Drive 35-48 Series 900KV 815W (171g)
  • Hacker A30-12L V2 500W, 1000 RPM (143g)
  • Hacker A30-12XL V2 650W, 700 RPM (176g)
  • Motrolfly 2820-950 1000W 950KV (152g)
  • Motrolfly 2825-650 820W 767KV (182g)
The 3025 looks like a really good motor. Being rated for 1300w, it makes it one seriously powerful motor and by far the most powerful motor Hobbyking has in that size range. If I ever need a replacement, this is definitely what I'm going for, unless the SK3s will be better

The 3648 is the motor I have in my plane (see my previous post). Keep in mind though, the motor does NOT weigh 136g, that's incorrect. It weighs close to 180.

The NTM motor is also a very good choise. It is the smallst of the 3 and the least powerful (not by very much at all thouh).

Quote:
Originally Posted by helicow View Post
Seems to me, if I am gong to get a new motor, Hacker or Motrolfly may be the better choice long term. The future is 3DHS (or similar) so would like to be able to reuse it also.
Why do you think those would be a better choise for the long term? Just because 3DHS uses them doesn't mean you can't reuse the Hobbyking motors too. As long as they will fit, in terms of bolt patterns and size, then that's all that matters.
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Old Jul 11, 2011, 03:17 PM
smoke is my wattmeter
Longview, Tx
Joined May 2008
1,134 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by helicow View Post
Would like opinions on this.

I finally bent the motor shaft, and was able to get one set screw out. The other, I have heated with a soldering iron and a propane torch - it is not partially stripped and apparently part of the motor.

I am going to attempt to cut a notch in it so I can use a flat head screw driver, which I know will also notch the back of the motor - but for now, that is probably my best bet.

Anyways, I am looking for a new motor. E-Flite is last on my list right now. I have seen a couple guys reference HC Turnigy motors, but those are back ordered.

Long time ago, boatdoc recommended the Hacker A30-12L. Not questioning his knowledge, I am just not comfortable with the specs on these. I have heard they are very UNDER rated, but really not sure this is the best choice.

So here is my list so far.
  • Turnigy 3025-850kv 1300w (182g )
  • Turnigy 3648 Brushless Motor 850kv (136g)
  • NTM Prop Drive 35-48 Series 900KV 815W (171g)
  • Hacker A30-12L V2 500W, 1000 RPM (143g)
  • Hacker A30-12XL V2 650W, 700 RPM (176g)
  • Motrolfly 2820-950 1000W 950KV (152g)
  • Motrolfly 2825-650 820W 767KV (182g)

Seems to me, if I am gong to get a new motor, Hacker or Motrolfly may be the better choice long term. The future is 3DHS (or similar) so would like to be able to reuse it also.

Besides the Turnigys, which has some data posted here, what are your thoughts?

Should any be removed from the list?

Thanks,
Bob
Typically only one setscrew will tighten down on a flat spot on the shaft. If the setscrew you removed is the one on the flat spot, I'd bet you can press it without too much of a problem. If not, more trouble. A cobalt drill bit can take care of it though. For me, one setscrew in the flat is plenty.

One thing to keep in mind when replacing your motor is prop size and your preferences. Some like the 12" for speed and precision flying while others prefer 13" for slower, 3d flying. I'm using a Hobbypartz Rocket that's about 37/45 sized but with a kv of 1130 since I'm using 3s batts. It's about 170 grams. If I remotor my plane, I'm gonna shoot for a kv around 800-900 on 4s so hopefully a 13x6 or so prop will be about right.

Here's another motor worth a mention. http://okhobby.com/product.php?id_product=779 I think these motors are very nice for the money. Totally above anything Turnigy IMO. I've got a few and all have been great performers but there distributor has been the problem. The old ones were Scorpion copycats so they went through a redesign and have been really slow getting new ones in stock. Last two I received were one old style, one new. Not sure if I'll risk ordering them again until their stock looks replenished. I may try a 970 kv 145 grammer that I already have of theirs. It easily spun a 14x7 on a another 49" balsa plane on 3s. May try it on 4s this time with a 12 incher also.
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