That doesn't hurt my feelings at all. Before I bought my Micro Stik, I posted a question on this forum asking which would be a better gymnasium flier - the Champ or Playmate. Reading the Playmate is more relaxing than the MS is definitely food for thought. For flying in the confines of a gym, can the Playmate fly as slowly & turn as sharp as the MS?

Originally Posted by Doug Sipprell

Should you wish to go with one of the FlyZone micros, I would recomment your first one be the Playmate. Easy but quick when flying indoors (large gynmasium, NOT your living room), and a great flyer outdoors in calm to trace wind conditions.
<SNIP>
FWIW: I have the eRc Micro Stik. It's a high strung Ember on steroids, quite elevator sensitive. The Playmate is much more relaxing to fly, IMHO.

Originally Posted by bluesman77

For flying in the confines of a gym, can the Playmate fly as slowly & turn as sharp as the MS?

The Micro Stik is, by virture of the larger elevator and rudder, more maneuverable, IMHO. If you REALLY want it to turn on a dime and in-side loop within it's own length, you can relocate the control rods to a closer-in hole in the control horns. However, this will, IMHO, make the plane difficult to fly smoothly, especially for someone new to fixed wing RC. Why? Because the transmitter supplied with the plane has lesser resolution in the control inputs than better transmitters. Hence, the slightest movement of the aileron/elevator stick will result in a notable movement of the aileron or rudder. There is no dual rate or exponential possible with the supplied transmitter. Thus, a plane that can be "twitchey". The Playmate (latest version, blue & white, with Any Link electronics) will benefit by being controlled with a better transmitter, such as the DX6i, assuming you have one or something similar. The Playmate's servos are not exactly high resolution, but when linked to a better transmitter, the plane can be flown very smoothly. The original Playmate (red & white) came with a typical "game controller" transmitter, not very good resolution in control inputs, but still easy to fly rather smoothly. I have both the original Playmate and the MicroStik. Will be flying both indoors this coming Tuesday. I like them both, but the Playmate is really more graceful in flight, and yes, needs just a little more room. I have found both are fairly quick indoors, much quicker than the standard Vapor, the Night Vapor, Embers, about the same speed as the UM J-3 Cub and HZ Champ. FWIW

RD

Thanks Doug - that's what I needed to know. Maybe I'll give the Micro Stik another shot tomorrow evening & see if I can keep it from running into the walls. Another new pilot got a Champ for Christmas & also had a bad time on his 1st flights. Thanks to information I got on here from CorvetteC5 & gave him, he added some flaps & is now flying. That may be my plan B.

bluesman77:

Just to get back "on thread", the Flyzone Albatros can be flown quite successfully indoors, in a large gymnasium environment. However, it can more easily be damaged due to "wall strikes", or hard landings. The Playmate is far more forgiving, and so is the MicroStik, when it comes to hitting things. The Albatros has a "neat" factor, but it's really disheartening to find something usually broken loose or fractured, after a modest brush with the wall or floor. There is good information in prior posts within this thread concerning reducing some of this "fragility" of the little Albatros. Also, better/stronger 1S Lipos are recommended and available.

RD

I agree with Doug's advice to Bluesman77. Matches my experience with the Albatros and Playmate.

My $0.02. As an experienced pilot I find my Flyzone Albatros easier to fly in a smaller gym then my Playmate and Super Cub. Flying high alpha, only the Albatros was stable at the slow speeds I wanted so that the plane could perform figure eights in the 3/4 size basketball court. Flying this slow with the Super Cub resulted in tip stalling and crashing into the floor. I find the Playmate and Super Cub to fly about the same in stock form.

A huge improvement for slow flight stability with the Super Cub was adding fixed flaps. See image. Now it flies stable at high alpha with comparable speed to the Albatros. I also increased throws on the rudder and elevator for tighter turns to great results. It now rudder rolls very nicely to the right. I increased the rudder and elevator throws on my Albatros the same way.

I highly recommend the flaps for indoor flying in tighter spaces.

Yes, you were kind enough as to give me the Champ flaps mod which I gave to the fellow w/ a Champ in our group & it made a HUGE difference. Incidentally, I took my eRC MS along to the church gym this evening & the guys talked me into trying it out again. I actually was able to fly several circuits before a wall got in the way. I'd had trouble w/ the elevator pushrod end sliding in the sleeve & had fixed it w/ a drop of hot glue. I smacked the wall hard enough to break that bond - so the festivities ended, but I actually flew! As near as we can tell, I wasn't bringing the throttle back after ground take-offs & things were getting away from me last time. So there's hope for me yet.

The guy w/ the Champ w/ the flaps mod & I later had a mid-air collision w/ our helis. My V911 & his MCX2 got together about 25' up & dropped like rocks. Neither sustained any damage & both flew fine afterwards.

Originally Posted by CorvetteC5

I agree with Doug's advice to Bluesman77. Matches my experience with the Albatros and Playmate.

My $0.02. As an experienced pilot I find my Flyzone Albatros easier to fly in a smaller gym then my Playmate and Super Cub. Flying high alpha, only the Albatros was stable at the slow speeds I wanted so that the plane could perform figure eights in the 3/4 size basketball court. Flying this slow with the Super Cub resulted in tip stalling and crashing into the floor. I find the Playmate and Super Cub to fly about the same in stock form.

A huge improvement for slow flight stability with the Super Cub was adding fixed flaps. See image. Now it flies stable at high alpha with comparable speed to the Albatros. I also increased throws on the rudder and elevator for tighter turns to great results. It now rudder rolls very nicely to the right. I increased the rudder and elevator throws on my Albatros the same way.

I highly recommend the flaps for indoor flying in tighter spaces.

Hi
I was wondering what manuvers are possible with the Albatross? Inverted, loops, rolls, some type of circuit of touch and goes? I'm trying to come up with a set of goals with practice flights.
Thanks,
Ray

Originally Posted by kostuk

Hi
I was wondering what manuvers are possible with the Albatross? Inverted, loops, rolls, some type of circuit of touch and goes? I'm trying to come up with a set of goals with practice flights.
Thanks,
Ray

The Albatross is only a rudder and elevator plane it is capable of loops, inverted (not easy but can be done), touch and go's no problem. Rolls it will not do as it does not have ailerons. You might be able to pull off some tail slides and hammer-head stalls given enough recovery room as it is not a powerhouse.
Good luck and push the envelope

Hi,
I was wondering if there were any suggestions on which type and color paint to use to simulate the wood fuse on the Albatross?
Thanks,
Ray

Hi

I want to modify the DVa. Can someone please tell me how to remove the decals?

Bob

Originally Posted by Bob P

Hi

I want to modify the DVa. Can someone please tell me how to remove the decals?

Bob

Apply tape. peel off tape. the decals will come right off.

Still loving this plane, especially now that the evening weather will allow front yard flights again. Bone stock RTF except for scarf on pilot...my go-to plane after coming home from work.

One too many bumps to the spinner misaligned my prop gear from the plastic motor gear. I finally opened up the Albatros, realigned the gears and installed the metal geared brushed motor recommended earlier in this thread. Very nice! Much quieter and the power seems smoother.

SE5a motor/Gearbox (4th gen)

Gearbox: FLZA6319

Motor/Pinion: FLZA6318