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Old Dec 06, 2012, 06:43 PM
Make the best of all you have
beetyii's Avatar
Essen/Germany
Joined Dec 2006
569 Posts
Yeah, it'll be my next 3D plane !

Sunday is maiden for the Albatros and the Fokker DR 1 - still much to do ...






Rolf
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 08:05 PM
Power Wheels Guru
UNGN's Avatar
Southlake, TX
Joined Jan 2008
7,327 Posts
The more elevator throw, the better. I have mine set up like a 3D plane.

At low throttle when throttle > elevator mix is high, more throw allows the plane to flare for landing.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 09:54 AM
Make the best of all you have
beetyii's Avatar
Essen/Germany
Joined Dec 2006
569 Posts
Nice to hear ...




Rolf
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 09:22 PM
Elfi Flyer
Doug Sipprell's Avatar
Rock Hill, SC
Joined Oct 2002
5,548 Posts
It is sort of like "rediscovering" this plane all over again. Stuffing a Hyperion 240mah 1S 25C lipo into it actually has worked. I had set both of my Alby's aside, #1 is damaged and slated for a complete DSM2 electronics transplant. #2 had some aggrivating linkage problems. Both are more fragile than the majority of my micro fleet. Today, some good flights, one in calm/trace wind conditions, two more in trace/light wind conditions. 11 and 12 minutes flights the norm with this Lipo.

The plane (Albatros #2) has absolute no problems hoisting the additional lipo weight. Was actually able to pull some inside loops without the usual roll out. Nice to know know I can fly it in very light wind conditions, thus more flying time available. Will be flying Alby #2 at an indoor event later this week. No other mods to the plane other than taping the 90 degree cut out area on the lower wing, and a drop or two of UHU Por on the contact points for LG supports and wing struts. Nice to have it active again in the micro fleet.

RD
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 06:00 PM
Only flies cheap
Florida
Joined Jan 2007
169 Posts
My mods:
- Removed undercarriage for belly landings, and foam "motor" because it had already lost the scale look
- Snap-n-Fly motor, just because I had one
- Servo horns set to outermost positions, and surface horns set to innermost positions
- Slightly increased down-thrust. This really seemed to help with "ballooning."
- left a lot more length to the motor leads than they needed, and used a battery extension to make a quick-disconnect for the motor. I would do neither again.

AUW is 27.2g w/stock 130mah battery
AUW is 27.9g with Turnigy 160mah

I just flew for 22 minutes on a single charge with that (1-2 year old) Turnigy 160mah. Actually my timer said 23:15 but I am adjusting generously for my time to launch and a brief unplanned landing.

A significant portion of those 22 minutes was at full-throttle. I was NOT trying for max endurance, just seeing how long it would go under normal flying conditions. That is a lot of flying, so I got bored and started zooming around.

I think if there is any difference at all, then the stock motor is hotter than the snap-n-fly, even though the snap-n-fly is supposed to be pretty hot stuff. I've only flown stock with the undercarriage, but it didn't seem much faster without it, when combined with the snap-n-fly motor.

Either way, they both work fine. The next thing I may do is more prop. at 22 minutes of mostly sporty flying , I would guess it can handle some more amps in its present configuration. Any suggestions?

EDIT: Forgot to mention that resting voltage after the 22min flight was 3.50v
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Last edited by sv650touring; Dec 14, 2012 at 06:52 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 02:16 PM
Registered User
United States, WA, Battle Ground
Joined Sep 2012
230 Posts
de-glue?

Probably a dumb question... but I can't find the answer in the last 43 pages. How are you guys taking apart the airplane? (de-gluing) I sent my Albatros back to Tower for a replacement because I could not keep the elevator pushrod from popping off the servo. Would have been an easy fix if I knew how to pull the glued plane apart without breaking it.

Steve
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 02:55 PM
Make the best of all you have
beetyii's Avatar
Essen/Germany
Joined Dec 2006
569 Posts
Customized my battery compartment to get the battery more to the rear for a better CG (21mm after frontline of the upper wing).

Made a suspension for the gear, maxed out the throw of the elevator and ruder, opened the front of the dummy motor and the cockpit for a little cooling, painted the lower wing ...




To open the fuselage use some lighter fluid between the halfs and they come apart - they are hold together by self adhesive strips.


Rolf
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 03:29 PM
Registered User
United States, WA, Battle Ground
Joined Sep 2012
230 Posts
Thanks Rolf... does that work on the wings, struts, and gear too?
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 04:14 PM
Make the best of all you have
beetyii's Avatar
Essen/Germany
Joined Dec 2006
569 Posts
Yes, it will but give the lighter fluid 15 sec to do its work, perhaps you have to repeat it several times.






Rolf
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 02:33 PM
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kotori87's Avatar
Joined Dec 2006
147 Posts
Hi, all. I am a huge fan of ye olde WWI biplanes, the old wood-and-fabric kites that jousted in the skies over western France. About a year ago ago I bought a Flyzone Albatros, but encountered many difficulties with the plane due to its breaking gearboxes every other flight. It was the old version with linear servos. Most of my wrecks weren't even hard crashes, just gentle nose-overs when landing on the dirt field where I fly. I finally shelved it when the brick died, it now shuts off motor power at anything above 5% throttle despite a fully charged battery.

Well here I am 6 months after shelving the project and almost done with school, and I'm looking to get back into flying. I see that Flyzone has released a bunch of new planes, and supposedly improved their quality as well. I bought enough spare parts when I started to build a new Alby using the guts from a parkzone UM P-51, but I honestly much prefer the rotary-engined old birds over the inline-engined ones.

Here's my big question. Should I build a new albatros using my current set of spare parts and a Parkzone brick (and P-51 motor)? Should I buy a new S.E.5a? Should I buy some new spare parts and mix the wings and tail of an S.E.5a with the body of a Nieuport 17 and Parkzone P-51 brick to make me a Sopwith Camel? Or would I get a more robust plane with the body of a DR1 and top wing of an Albatros, to make a Fokker D.VIII "flying razor"?
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 04:49 PM
Power Wheels Guru
UNGN's Avatar
Southlake, TX
Joined Jan 2008
7,327 Posts
If you are going to build one, Use a PKZ brick and the New motor/gearbox from the SE5a.

Cut the motor plug off an dead HH motor, solder to the FLZ motor and use a HK battery extender plug so the bricks cable isn't too stretched. I recommend moving the brick back a little, too. This is a must with a mustang motor/gearbox, but it helps out with heavy batteries, too, with the 7mm.

Then Incorporate all of the structural fixes in this mod thread:

1. Put tape in inside corners of lower wing
2. CF strip between cabanes of upper wing
3. Replace CF axle with music wire. (.025" or .030")
4. Thin epoxy pockets on lower wing where struts attach, press struts into glue to make a pocket, then remove & let dry and then use good rubber cement style foam glue to attach strut to lower pocket
5. Cut lower fuselage forward of the elevator so Elevator/Rudder/tailskid are permanently attached to upper fuselage. (4 and 5 make disassembly/assy easier)
6. re-glue all foam to plastic joints with a good, flexible foam glue like UHU por.

Add in a Throttle to elevator mix and you will have a great little plane.
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 06:16 PM
Registered User
Gulf Breeze, FL
Joined Jul 2006
2,892 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
If you are going to build one....
That about says it all. Nice summary, UNGN.

Gene K
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 06:29 PM
Registered User
kotori87's Avatar
Joined Dec 2006
147 Posts
Thanks for the advice. I think I will complete my Albatros, see how it handles, and then figure out what to build next. I need to stop by my local hobby shop tomorrow since all my glues have dried out. I will see if they have a SE5a in stock while I'm there. Are there any photos showing how to reinforce the Albatros lower wing?
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 08:59 PM
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Angelo's Avatar
Chicago, IL
Joined Nov 1999
2,049 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
Then Incorporate all of the structural fixes in this mod thread:
.
Good grief, mine's box stock, and I have a ball with it! I did have a mystery problem after a year of use, it lost power and wouldn't fly. I tried a new motor, no luck, got a new gearbox, when completely by accident I discovered the prop was loose and spinning freely on the shaft. Pulled it back out, a dab of CA, and she's flying great again.

Although I haven't changed the mechanicals, I've done some work on the aesthetics, mostly on the very plain and toy-like bottom. I'll post some pics when I'm done.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 07:58 PM
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kotori87's Avatar
Joined Dec 2006
147 Posts
Well my albatros build is nearing completion. All that remains is a little red sharpy coloring, and gluing down the motor. I have a question about that. Why does the stock Albatros have its motor angled downward? What does this do for the plane, and if so, what angle should I mount mine at?

Since the larger P-51 motor friction fits nicely into the Alby's upper nose, I took the plane out for a test flight to experiment. Winds were gusting up to 30mph so I went to a nearby indoor basketball court. Compact, but out of the wind. The plane flew well enough but I couldn't fly straight for long enough to really see how motor angle affected its performance. As expected, the plane had some of the interesting quirks that WWI biplanes really had, like a tendency to go nose-down in right turns and nose-up in left turns due to engine torque. At one point, during a tight left turn at low speed to avoid a basketball hoop, its tendency to nose-up sent it crabbing more than 30 degrees sideways as it heeled over during the turn. Right turns proved even more dangerous, since that direction sends the nose down.
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Last edited by kotori87; Dec 21, 2012 at 08:22 PM.
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