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Old Oct 18, 2010, 02:52 PM
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Maxthrottle's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Mike_Then View Post
...@Maxthrottle:
- The elevators are set up as stabiliators, pitch only.

- I set them as recommended in the manual, 1/2" low rates and 3/4" high rates. Those were not enough of course so I increased them. I will have to measure and get back to you.
Something else I just noticed is your servo link arm may not be optimized. http://downloads.hobbico.com/misc/gp...rod-hookup.pdf see preferred hookup.

Does the stabilator hit servo arm linkage? I'd put the clevis on the servo arm and the Z bend on the control horn so that the wire doesn't touch or get hung up against the stabilator.

Either way try putting the link in the inner most hole of the servo arm and then starting from the outer most hole of the control horn move in to reach your maximum servo resolution and surface travel. You can set travel on the TX to 125% also. I found if done right you don't need a high low setup.

I found especially on take off or flying slow you want a lot of throw but very fine movement. This can be optimized mechanically first before adding expo. It less stress on the servo too.
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Old Oct 18, 2010, 02:55 PM
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Hoovers? You mean it vacuums? I bet you meant "hovers", right?

I know I used my twin 70mm Walkera SU-27 for a leaf blower, but never a vacuum LOL!
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Old Oct 18, 2010, 02:56 PM
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Oh, and seriously, I meant to ask is it EPO foam?
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Old Oct 18, 2010, 04:08 PM
I hate waiting for parts
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United States, NC, Garner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
Something else I just noticed is your servo link arm may not be optimized. http://downloads.hobbico.com/misc/gp...rod-hookup.pdf see preferred hookup.

Does the stabilator hit servo arm linkage? I'd put the clevis on the servo arm and the Z bend on the control horn so that the wire doesn't touch or get hung up against the stabilator.

Either way try putting the link in the inner most hole of the servo arm and then starting from the outer most hole of the control horn move in to reach your maximum servo resolution and surface travel. You can set travel on the TX to 125% also. I found if done right you don't need a high low setup.

I found especially on take off or flying slow you want a lot of throw but very fine movement. This can be optimized mechanically first before adding expo. It less stress on the servo too.
I'll have to check that out... I don't use dual rates on many planes; I only did this because it was a new plane and I didn't want to over-control it. I will most likely go to a single-throw setup now that I'm familiar with the plane's flight characteristics.

I know the fuse is lower than it seems as there's grass stains on the bottom of the plane that did not come from my belly landing. Bigger wheels will help but it will be a challenge to mount them due to the unique axles.
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Old Oct 18, 2010, 04:45 PM
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Ok will see when you post the snap shots of the gear. How do the axles lock in place? Grub nuts? or nuts on the axle themselves. Actually I just looked at some of the other pics. You mentioned the little plastic nuts. I'd drill the strut out to accomedate a 2-3mm machine bolt with nuts either side. To bad they didn't use a grub nut to hold in place. Then you could use model car axles.
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Old Oct 18, 2010, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
Ok will see when you post the snap shots of the gear. How do the axles lock in place? Grub nuts? or nuts on the axle themselves. Actually I just looked at some of the other pics. You mentioned the little plastic nuts. I'd drill the strut out to accomedate a 2-3mm machine bolt with nuts either side. To bad they didn't use a grub nut to hold in place. Then you could use model car axles.
Nuts on the axles themselves. A wheel collar would be perfect but the axle is very thin. I can easily drill out the hole in the strut but again, the unique bend may prevent that. Will have to see what my options are. Might actuallly have to buy wheels that aren't predrilled. We will figure it out!
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Old Oct 18, 2010, 05:18 PM
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I know I am full of questions but what is the Wheel dia. on this model. 2" Sullivan lites seem to always work for me. The Euro I had to put 1.75" on the nose. The SU34 I used 1" dual nose wheels.
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Old Oct 18, 2010, 08:35 PM
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Thanks Mike.
Could you take a shot of the side. Just curious if it has the brass coloured axle with the grub screw in the centre. These look to be Eflite with a slightly different casing. Trunnion look exactly like a Lander. What is the exact hieght of the retract.

If you could video the retract sequence while its on it back would be even more helpful in figuring out if the strut geometry could be adjusted some.

I'm thinking a tighter flex spring to cause the strut to straighten more, and definitly take the axle off drill a 3mm hole and insert a car axle since the philips screw holds it in place. If it touches the foam walls as it retracts, dremel!

If the spring was tighter as the wing generated lift the strut would lift the body more moving the wheel foward closer to CG helping the rotation.
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Old Oct 18, 2010, 09:49 PM
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Great news!!

I was in the shop tonight looking at my F/A-18. I was talking with a friend and club member (who wasn't there for the maiden flight yesterday) about my wheel and landing gear dilemma. I really don't have a whole lot of options due to the way the axles are bent to make the wheels sit straight. He had a quick and simple suggesion... simply solder some brass tubing to the existing axle and I can fit any wheel on there that I want! What a fan-flippin'-tastic idea! I'm going to his place tomorrow to pick up some tubing that will fit the wheels I am thinking of using. I'm going to start with 2" in the front (up from just under 1.5") and 2.5" wheels in the back (up from 2"). The plane should roll smoother and faster on the runway, which may help alleviate my takeoff issues. I've already checked and the bigger wheels will fit up front with no mods necessary (with room for even bigger wheels), and the rear wheel wells will only have to be slightly modified to fit the 2.5" wheels.

I'm also going to mix in flaperons, as that may help as well. I measured my elevators and I have exactly 2" of throw on high rates. I have room for more if I need it.

I'm VERY excited about what seems to be a simple solution to my problem. I'll be sure to post pics of my progress.
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Old Oct 18, 2010, 11:47 PM
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can't stand the single seater

:cool airframes on the build table but here you go twin seat fans

goin with all Hs-65 hb's,ar7000 and 5s 5000
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Old Oct 19, 2010, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
Neversommer Mike rightly points out he is adding larger wheels because of grass. I think the struts may be a little short too allowing too much drag on the belly.
The retracts on the Euro were mechanical and calapsed due to the servo setup; these or electric retracts. He didn't say these were calapsing so wheres the comparison to the Euro's gear that HL and Freewing are now changing out to the same gear that are presently being used on this model on their V3 Euro.
Most models have a harder time getting off grass with wheels this size on a model at this weight. I've seen trainers not take off cause the wheels were this big.

This shouldn't need TV to take off since the Stabilator is SOooooo large.
It just needs to get the wheels large enough to keep the strut and belly from dragging thru the grass allowing it to go fast enough to generate force at the stabilator to rotate. If you put the 15-20 on this it will just be heavier and still have the same problem.

And as I said in the past, none of the Freewing models were designed for speed. Why keep expecting it from them if thats not what they are designed for; but easily make if you so choose.
Yeah I got all that information bit.
I know as well that the eurofighter will have shortly now the new electric retracts which should most of the problems from the eurofighter fix with ease.

I know that Freewing is not building their Jet's entirely for Speed but this F-18 is surely one of the faster out of the box foamies around.

But I will wait and see that for myself. The Jet should be arriving today.
I will post pics and an out-of-the-box review.

I either do it in my thread or I will share it here too if the OP is ok with that?

Let us share and compare our findings and see which version got a bit more love and what could be improved.

Neversommer.
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Old Oct 19, 2010, 01:11 AM
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@Mike

Since the Elevators are 1 big surface to move, one thing I am always concerned of is how tight the elevators are?

If you move them are they flimsy? Like do you have a lot of play?

In Neutral Position can you move the elevator up and wiggle it? Is it kinda loose?

Reason me asking is that in case you may upgrade to an 8s setup like which I intend to, I am curious to have tight or loose they are.

I hope you get what I mean.

You have a very large moving surface, connected to a rather small connection to hold the elevator in place.

Let me know Mike please if that is the case..I will find out about it tonight hopefully anyway.

Regards

Neversommer.
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Old Oct 19, 2010, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike_Then View Post
Twin vectored thrust. I'm either going to remove the servos and lock the nozzles in place or see if I can disable it. I'd prefer to remove the servos as it will save weight and strain on the BEC..
The cover plate peels off. They use a soft glue. The worst that happens is some of the paint comes off from the back side of the plastic.
Be very careful removing the servos though. Use some spirits or oil to free it up first.
The ones on my Euro would not let go like the others and took a chunk of foam with it.
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Old Oct 19, 2010, 02:03 AM
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got the wings on her and just tried the lights,dang there cool! gonna finish my dual canopy and call it a night by 3
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