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Old Oct 11, 2010, 12:45 PM
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Question
Stator Coating material

I am working on a rewind, but the coating on the stator is gone. Can anyone help me find the right material to coat the stator? Are they normally powder coated or covered in Epoxy, or does anyone know of anything else that would work well, I'm basically starting from a bare stator.
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Old Oct 11, 2010, 07:44 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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I used Loctite 410, it is a rubberized CA adhesive that dries to a tough rubber like coating. I read about in a motor winding thread as something that was good for that and it worked for me. There are some photos of how I used it in this thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1248742

The coating that is on many stators, the shiny green stuff, is apparently not readily available at the consumer level or not easily obtained or used at our level or something like that.

Jack
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Old Oct 11, 2010, 07:55 PM
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shiny green stuff is probably a loaded epoxy.

Try epoxy and microballoons, and a bit of heat to runnify it
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Old Oct 11, 2010, 09:35 PM
Jack
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And then, instead of brushing it, dip it? The stators usually look like they were dipped, you can see sort of a parting like where they were masked off to or trimmed or something.

Jack
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Old Oct 12, 2010, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage1 View Post
shiny green stuff is probably a loaded epoxy.

Try epoxy and microballoons, and a bit of heat to runnify it
chrome oxide green,
cheers,
herbert
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Old Oct 12, 2010, 10:51 AM
Jack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herbertkabi View Post
chrome oxide green,
cheers,
herbert
Would that be to get the green color? Or is that what would be mixed with epoxy to get the green coating?

Jack
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Old Oct 12, 2010, 10:57 AM
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would guess teh latter. Dipping good. Mask, dip in warm epoxy, wait till rubbery, trim excess.
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Old Oct 12, 2010, 02:56 PM
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Winding of Motors carefully explained and answered Here:
http://www.powercroco.de/
Hours of educational reading :-)
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Old Oct 12, 2010, 05:47 PM
Jack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bare View Post
Winding of Motors carefully explained and answered Here:
http://www.powercroco.de/
Hours of educational reading :-)
You're right. The proprietor there, Dr. Ralph Okon, is a genius. I've google translated a lot of that site and got help but occasionally the translations don't work well. Here is the section on stator insulation:

http://translate.google.com/translat...hl=en&ie=UTF-8

I messed around with some Tyvek strips on the stator from one motor. While it seemed to work well as far as preventing shorts I found it pretty frustrating to get the strips in place and keep them there.

In the end deburring all the sharp edges around the sides and apex of the slots and then putting two coats of Loctite 410 on was what worked best for me. Now I am very careful to leave all of the original insulation in place as much as possible.

The 2410-12 I just rewound has small plastic caps on each end (glued in place apparently) that had a little overhang down into the slots. Those fit perfectly and have been working perfect too. But I don't know of a source for getting replacement caps for the Tower Prop stators.

Jack
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Old Oct 22, 2010, 08:17 PM
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Stay with stuff that dries VERY HARD. If not. Centrifugal force at high rpms WILL cause the Copper to dig in and cause movement over time. How long? Do not know.

Avoid the soft stuff. Remember we overheat & overspeed the DAYLIGHTS out of the motors............NO giveness. Ever.

By VERY VERY carefull about removing ANY metal from the laminations. The filings will get into the smallest airgaps between them. NOT GOOD at all. Could weaken the magnetic field.

Rich
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Old Oct 24, 2010, 12:05 AM
Scratch builder
USA, PA, Telford
Joined Apr 2004
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glyptal can be used. http://www.glyptal.com/1201tech001.pdf

Hi temp engine paint may work, but use many coats. The main purpose of the coating is to cover the sharp edge of the laminations. Stamped laminations have a burr on one side. Good die maintenance is necessary to keep this under control. The other edge isn't as sharp but will still cut through the wire insulation, especially if cheap, low temp wire is used. The good stuff resists 200 C. The other reason for coating is more insulation than just the wire alone.
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Old Oct 29, 2010, 05:21 AM
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Fourdan's Avatar
Antony (France)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herbertkabi View Post
chrome oxide green,
cheers,
herbert
Hi
If you don't like "green" and prefer "blue"
use epoxy 2 components Electrolube TBS
good for high temperature
Ready to coat
Louis
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Old Oct 29, 2010, 08:55 AM
Jack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourdan View Post
Hi
If you don't like "green" and prefer "blue"
use epoxy 2 components Electrolube TBS
good for high temperature
Ready to coat
Louis
Sounds like good stuff, here is the product description brochure on it:

http://www.electrolube.com/products/tds/TBS.pdf

And here is a place to buy some in the UK:

http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/32403-the...ectrolube.html

Louis,

Have you used that? Can you paint it on and then it flows to an even layer and sets to a smooth finish like the green stuff?

And, more importantly, does it not thin out on the sharp corners and leave those exposed?

Jack
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Old Oct 29, 2010, 09:13 AM
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Antony (France)
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Hi Jack
I have used it (Blue epoxy Electrolube) on a kit but it was in conjunction with glass fiber end plates !
So I have no experience on lams corners without isolation plates

Also used between magnets
Louis
I have also tried a black epoxy from 3M (Scotch weld DP390 if I remember) excellent also
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Old Oct 29, 2010, 09:26 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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OK, thanks for the help.

It seems like there are different choices in different parts of the world.

So far I've only used the Loctite 410 as a stator coating that would deal with the sharp corners and that worked OK. But I had also deburred the sharp corners on the arms first too, before I put the 410 on.

The fibreglas end plates sound like a good idea until it comes down to finding or making them. Some of the motors I've rewound had small plastic end caps that were nicely fitted to the stator plates. They covered the end and went down the side of the arms a short distance too so they provided very good protection against nicks and shorts. I think I found those on one Tower Prop motor and one Emax motor but I've never seen anyplace where you can buy those kinds of end caps as spare parts.

Jack
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