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My personal Hobbyking policy is:
1. I NEVER order more than $100.00 for any one order. So if it's lost in the mail, I'm willing to eat the $100.00 and won't headache about the loss. 2. I don't purchase any one item valued at more than $25.00. So if I receive a bad item, again I'm willing to eat the $25.00 loss. 3. I WILL NOT buy a battery charger, airplane or any large electronic item from them because returning a faulty item would cost too much. This policy has served me well for over two years now without a single issue. But this policy works for me because I fly ONLY park flyers and smaller planes and use smaller equipment lipo smaller 4s & 3s lipos, motors & ESC's as well as chargers. But lately, I've been buying most of my lipos from Value Hobby as well as chargers and also Hobbypartz, who is offering free shipping these days. You got to love that. |
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The ONLY thing I've ever had come in bad from HK out of 24 orders was one 20C Rhino 4S pack with a dead cell. It was about $13 to send it back, and a 40C version came back in the mail a couple o'three weeks later(and this is back when 40C was quite expensive). AND I had changed the connector. I just sent them a nice email describing the problem, they sent me a confirmation claim number, I printed everything, stuffed it in a little box, and went to the PO and just sent it the cheapest way possible and forgot about it. Lo and behold, in came my new battery. And that battery over a year later still runs right with the newest ones I've purchased.
Out of 35 or so parkflyer batteries 1800-5000 mah class(not to mention the 50+ 1s batteries that have all been fine) its the only bad one I had, minus a couple that I killed myself when I was a lipo noob. I had purchased half a dozen retail parkzone batteries in the beginning, they're ALL dead. ETA: Oh, and one bad MG 14 servo, but it's a parts spare if I need it. I always order at least one extra servo if they are a group of cheapies. |
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Exactly how many different type / size HK battery connectors are trhere now anyway? Now a more serious comment. Why is it that many post sound like they really belong in an internet chat room or a PM instread of here? By the way I use Deans and only Deans , the real ones you know the expensive ones which so many never learned to solder correctly and thus have all kind of issues with. Lately I keep seeing all kind off fixtures to hold others connectors to me them easier to solder. I still think most need to spend some addational time learning to solder. Charles |
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re: Deans
[QUOTE=everydayflyer;16565515]
By the way I use Deans and only Deans , the real ones you know the expensive ones which so many never learned to solder correctly and thus have all kind of issues with. I still think most need to spend some addational time learning to solder. end of edited quote! I mostly use Deans ultra however, the newer HXT conns are nice (that is they plug together and come apart easily) as to their "in use resistance rating".....I have not seen any "numbers" yet! A lot of people seem to get caught up in "looks good" vs "works good". I have seen a lot of solder joints that hold (can not pull them apart) however, they have a lot of electrical resistance (aka, bad solder joint) Regardless of connector, soldering technique is important! Some people also make the argument that "bullets" allow for a better solder connection then Deans (one side vs the circumference) however if one looks at a Castle 85HV for instance, you will notice that all five leads are soldered on one side, just like Deans Ultras are. If one side is good enough for Castle, it is good enough for me! While it is not instant gratification, you can still easily check a solder joint by connecting everything up and running your motor up to full power for 10-15 seconds then disconnect the power and touch all of the connectors to feel for any hot spots. Not rocket science but it will give you a good info about the quality of the soldering. I have been using Deans up to 100 amps and the only issues I have had so far had to do with bad soldering (mine, that is! ). So far, all my soldering problems have been discovered on the ground during static testing.Michael (if your not fryin, your not tryin!) |
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Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
1,512 Posts
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If there is no enforcement, there is no change. In Washington State, chatting your cell phone while driving is primary offense. Yet, many still do it. |
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A btter example
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=839657 and if you really want a great example or 12 go to the 3D Aiplane Forum area and have a look at the 3D Hobby shop Threads. |
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Collierville, TN
Joined Aug 2003
321 Posts
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I built my own jig to hold Deans connectors for soldering, and even though I have a good soldering iron (Hakko), and consider myself fairly proficient, I still find it more difficult than necessary to get a good connection on a Deans, especially getting that wire inside the (+) tab. What I mean is: why should I even NEED a jig to get a good connection? . A couple months ago I bought a setup for Anderson Power Poles. . . man, what an addicting experience. . . just crimp, snap and go. Now everything I have R/C related has APP's ('cept batteries) . . . I know I can stop, but just not today!! . Anyway. . . my point is that if Deans (or someone) would make some sort of crimp connector that would then slide snugly onto the little tabs for soldering, then guys wouldn't need to build or buy specialty jigs. |
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They handle high volt's and amps with ease. Come packaged in either large male bundles or female bundles or both as fits your needs and at very affordable prices. Next best thing to Anderson Powerpoles.... and most of the best battery packs that HK sells they ship with them already attached for your convenience . That is as good as it gets. |
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