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Old Jan 12, 2011, 12:49 AM
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United States, WA, Redmond
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About 2 years ago, oran gave me this black gold when I bought his mini-graphite. About 2.1mm thick means it's perfect as a support for my rear sled. Used the proxon mini saw, blade was almost dead when I started, I need to bury it now as it needs new teeth
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Old Feb 06, 2011, 05:01 PM
One Idiot is plenty...
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Planet Earth
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Progress in slow motion.
Yuri.
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Old Feb 07, 2011, 03:58 AM
sloping addict
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France
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A question on the 1509: there seem to be "long nose" and "short nose" ones, ie some have the extra 10-15mm of material to hold geabox in front, while some others have a shorter motor with the gearbox fitted right onto the rotor case (without a motor extension the diameter of the gearbox as in Yuri's photo).

I thought it was related to a design change and all newer motors (2010+) would be the short ones, but Yuri, yours seem to be latest production but is still the long one...
I have a long nose 1509 1.5Y 6.7 from 2007 and a short 1509 2D 6.7 from 2010.

Anybody knows why this difference?
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Old Feb 07, 2011, 04:06 AM
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Verenigd Koninkrijk, Fareham
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Proto, in this case it's a 5.2:1 gearbox and Steve still makes all 5.2:1 motors with the long gearbox.

I don't know why Yuri has gone for a 5.2:1 motor in this case but i am sure he will let us know.
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Old Feb 07, 2011, 09:59 AM
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You need a long nose if you want to run a pinion. The short gearbox can only be used if the shaft is cut into a gear. Some people like having an actual pinion for a 6.7 setup, because it allows them to change gearboxes on the motor to 5.2 if wanted. Note: you cannot have short 5.2 ever, and you cannot have short 6.7 on 11xx series motor, since output shaft is too small to cut gear into
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Old Feb 08, 2011, 09:39 AM
Pesky Landings!
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Abergele, North Wales, UK
Joined Apr 2004
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Good afternoon all.

I've recently taken delivery of a new Viking 2e that I am about to start building once a servo order arrives. I have a couple of queries for those who have built/flown one already.

First of all, When mounting the motor bulkhead, is anyone bonding the bulkhead in place with any side/down thrust built in? Or is it better to bond it in square, and adjust the motor mounting with packing washers?

Secondly, What sort of CG range should I be aiming for with this model? I normally prefer my models to have a slightly forward CG, giving a gentle pull up in a dive test.

Finally, what sort of control throws and other mixes should I be looking to try out (snap flap, reflex, flap to aileron etc etc).]

Oh, one more sorry, are people normally using the canopy to load/unload battery packs, or is that more for accessing the battery connector?

Cheers!
Andy (who is hoping he can do a build as nice as the ones pictured in this thread!)
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Old Feb 08, 2011, 12:35 PM
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Czech Republic, Hlavní město Praha, Prague
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigandy View Post
First of all, When mounting the motor bulkhead, is anyone bonding the bulkhead in place with any side/down thrust built in? Or is it better to bond it in square, and adjust the motor mounting with packing washers?
Hi Andy,

in case of hotliners, there is no need for side/down trust just make it square and you are done.

Also check out the other Viking 2 E build thread for more pictures from Dalibor.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1186001

Good luck with your build, you wont be disappointed, Viking 2E is a great ship.

Martin
http://www.PiNa.cz
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Old Feb 09, 2011, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigandy View Post
Secondly, What sort of CG range should I be aiming for with this model? I normally prefer my models to have a slightly forward CG, giving a gentle pull up in a dive test.
These are the values recommended by Jiri Sodomka for his Viking 2 Glider

http://www.f3x.cz/viking2_settings.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigandy View Post
Oh, one more sorry, are people normally using the canopy to load/unload battery packs, or is that more for accessing the battery connector?
Canopy is used for accessing the "main switch" only. You will load your battery packs into the nose before joining it with the rest of the fuselage.

Martin
http://www.PiNa.cz
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Old Feb 09, 2011, 03:20 AM
Pesky Landings!
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Abergele, North Wales, UK
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Thanks for the advice Martin, it's much appreciated. That video you posted of the 4kW Viking has certainly got some of my club mates expecting something big from mine!

I've thought of one more question I meant to ask. When it comes to retaining the nose cone with big power onboard, are you relying on just the two wing incidence pegs to hold the nose on, or is it advisable to install an additional retaining feature. (The nose on my Graphite 2e with 1.8kW was held on with a single m3 bolt)

Thanks
Andy
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Old Feb 09, 2011, 03:48 AM
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Czech Republic, Hlavní město Praha, Prague
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Andy,

your club mates were right about short life of Dalibor's Lipos (up to 75% discharge only). The day before his battery pack died after 10 cycles he discharged it way too much. So it seems you can safely follow Dalibor's way to surprise them with 4kW

Until we've visited Jiri lately, Dalibor was relying on just the two wing incidence pegs to hold the nose on. It was before maiden of his Viking 2 E Race. Jiri showed us that it is still possible to bend nose cone a bit. So Dalibor put one extra bolt on the top just to be safe.

You can see Dalibor in the backgroud as he is trying to bend my Viking 2 E nose cone to see how serious this "problem" could be

Martin
http://www.PiNa.cz
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Old Feb 09, 2011, 04:13 AM
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Czech Republic, Hlavní město Praha, Prague
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... and nice piece of tuning for Dalibor's V2E Race. It will sustain 6kW.

Martin
http://www.PiNa.cz
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Old Feb 09, 2011, 05:12 AM
sloping addict
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Aeronaut yoke stuck on plastic spinner ?
Can you show the inside ?
thanks !
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Old Feb 09, 2011, 06:15 AM
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Old Feb 10, 2011, 09:24 PM
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United States, WA, Redmond
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Martin, very nice spinner, please let me know ingredients.... looks much stronger than rfm yoke.

I tested motor tonite: 1409 1.5y 6.7... 7s 3300 45C... results are good:

See below... happy about rpm, this means on 17x13 it will be a touch slower, but still efficient. I did not want to try 17x13 rfm yet, because if GM pils = no need to grind flat on shaft... for rfm I will... UNLESS GM starts selling spinners for no twist, large rfm props.... (please) or martin shares where he and Dalibor hunt reindeer
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Old Feb 11, 2011, 01:06 AM
sloping addict
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France
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Get yourself a Klemm or HM spinner (they both use same concept but just have the screws reversed) => no set screw anymore and holds firm on dound shaft. Best system I've found to date...

Available in large variety of sizes.

Lindinger.at or Hoellein for example sell these.

Martin: is that a home made or commercial unit? It still has a set screw right ?
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