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Old Mar 13, 2012, 11:26 AM
It was a GLITCH! Honestly!
SafeLandings's Avatar
Stourport on Severn ,Worcestershire, United Kingdom
Joined Dec 2007
4,903 Posts
Chris,
Try bending one of the hinged mounts up and down quickly, if you can get 30-40 cycles out of it before it snaps you are doing well. Just think how long that would last if fitted onto a model If you could get just one flight in without loosing a rotor then the gyro gods would be looking down on you!

Rich
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 05:20 PM
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Elizabeth South Australia 5113
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Rich
Thats why I go straight to the Tupper conversion
Chris............
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 04:34 PM
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Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafeLandings View Post
Chris,
Try bending one of the hinged mounts up and down quickly, if you can get 30-40 cycles out of it before it snaps you are doing well. Just think how long that would last if fitted onto a model If you could get just one flight in without loosing a rotor then the gyro gods would be looking down on you!

Rich
Today I dismantled a new rotor head to replace the flapping hinge with the milk carton plastic version and found that the new heads hinge was off a different material. The old type hinge was a more rigid material with a frosted appearance, where the new hinge is more flexible and of clear appearance. I am going to replace it anyhow, but perhaps its OK. The newer head was also assembled correctly.

Mick
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 08:01 PM
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Elizabeth South Australia 5113
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G'Day Mick
I also noticed that the flexing plate was from a different material. I have come across another material that ''may'' be suitable .I found a cutting board in my wifes craft room.I gave it a good flexing test and all looks OK.. Its 1.5 mm thick I have made one and will advise after testing.
I just hope that she will not notice the piece missing.
Chris...........
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 01:46 AM
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Lower Blue Mountains, Australia
Joined Jan 2006
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I just ordered a Cierva from HK. Here's a buddy code for a $52 kit!

http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?c...4-9C2ED44BD8AE

Get in quick!
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 04:54 AM
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Australia
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Originally Posted by britinoz View Post
G'Day Mick
I also noticed that the flexing plate was from a different material. I have come across another material that ''may'' be suitable .I found a cutting board in my wifes craft room.I gave it a good flexing test and all looks OK.. Its 1.5 mm thick I have made one and will advise after testing.
I just hope that she will not notice the piece missing.
Chris...........
I've increased my milk carton hinge layers to three now, hoping to stiffen things up a bit and reduce the excessive blade coning which is detracting from the blade lift. It flew today real slow, but with a nose up orientation under power, so I'm increasing the down thrust a little for next flight to hopefully find a sweet spot. Its been a long running project for me this aircraft(about 30/4 crash vs safe landing ratio), but I can smell victory is near

Mick
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 10:35 PM
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Elizabeth South Australia 5113
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If I remember correctly ,the model does not have any down thrust on the front former.
I am running with 6 deg down thrust ,that gives me level flight under full power.
Chris.............
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Old Mar 18, 2012, 03:30 PM
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Australia
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I made up an aluminium firewall with adjustable motor mount, so i'm still tweaking my engine angle.

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Old Mar 18, 2012, 05:55 PM
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Trailer Down By The River
Joined Sep 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by britinoz View Post
If I remember correctly ,the model does not have any down thrust on the front former.
I am running with 6 deg down thrust ,that gives me level flight under full power.
Chris.............
I remember 1 to 1 1/2 degrees down on the firewall not nearly enough.
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 12:48 PM
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Semarang , Indonesia
Joined Jan 2010
7 Posts
Making it nose heavy

Just want to know how I can make this model nose heavy until 16 degree ? what did you put in there ? is the large bateries will do or more stuff we put in there ??????


Quote:
Originally Posted by britinoz View Post
Gentlemen
This may be of some help to those of you having problems with this kit.
These are the settings that I have applied to my as of the moment unflown model.
The down thrust on the motor has to be adjusted to 6 deg .The down thrust on the front former is 1.5 down so packing must be applied to the motor mount.
The back tilt on the rotor head should be approx 6 deg for level flight ,this must be measured when the tailplane is at' 0' deg.I hope the pictures will help.
The other feature that every one seems to want to know is ,the CG.
With Autogyros it is refered to as the' hang angle',and to find it ,you have to hang the model by the Rotor spindle and measure the angle on the tailplane .It should be between 10-16 deg .The high end is better.
Unfortunately this model has been built VERY VERY HEAVY and I found that I had to use a considerably large Lipo than required to get the weight correct.For this size motor a 1250 MA pack will normally give a 10 min flight ,but I had to squeeze in a 2250 ma pak
The all up weight of the model with Lipo and Rotor came in at 775 gms which is about 250 gms overweight.
I hope to get to fly this model in the next couple of days ,and will advise of the result.
I am not over impressed with this model.
You may have noticed that my colour scheme is considerably different from all the other picture of the kit.Unfortunately when the kit arrived it was in a very sorry state,so rather than to go through the agro of sending it back ,and waiting for a replacement,it was quicker to rebuild the model and the blades.
It is not heavy because of the rebuild but because of the material used in the basic construction. In fact I believe I have saved some weight.
I am sure you will be aware to use the 'Delta wing 'setting on your TX for the head movement.
I am sure I have missed something,The old brains gone a bit wobbly. Don't forget to check the balance off the blades,mine were a bit out.[That is important]
happy Landings
Chris..........
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 04:32 PM
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Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yagee View Post
Just want to know how I can make this model nose heavy until 16 degree ? what did you put in there ? is the large bateries will do or more stuff we put in there ??????
I think you will find most people moved the mast back a little, or if you look at my picture above you can see the rotor head has been moved back. Depending on which battery you have used you may need to add a little lead, but its best not to add weight if you can avoid it.
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Trailer Down By The River
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I moved the rotor back easily,,there are four bolts holding the rotor assembly.,if you move the front two holes to back to the rear two holes and simply drill one hole in the back between the rear two holes you will have moved it back about 15 to 20 mm i think. i still had to use a 2100 mah lipo and did 6 degrees down thrust with the stab at zero degrees. To make it fly even better I made bigger blades for it.
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 01:08 PM
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Scotland
Joined Jan 2010
1,028 Posts
WARNING
I received 5 new sets of rotor blades for the C30 and they all had the wrong angle on the roots there was no negative I was lucky not to crash
I added a piece of lolly stick to each blade and the model flew OK watch out and make sure you have negative angle on any new blades you get from HK
Joe
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 02:16 PM
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Elizabeth South Australia 5113
Joined Nov 2005
1,827 Posts
Joe
I think that I had as much luck with those Hk blades as I did with your avatar
Thanks again look at it like this ,at least I have one now.
Chris.........
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 01:53 AM
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Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jockadopolus View Post
WARNING
I received 5 new sets of rotor blades for the C30 and they all had the wrong angle on the roots there was no negative I was lucky not to crash
I added a piece of lolly stick to each blade and the model flew OK watch out and make sure you have negative angle on any new blades you get from HK
Joe
Rather than having to set each blade, I've glued pieces of cable tie smooth side up on the blade grips to tip the blade angle. I got the idea after reading your post and looking my Scout which has very thin pieces of ply glue to the blade. Look at the two following pics and you will see.

This one is the Scout


This one my C30


Perhaps this incorrect/inconsistent blade angle was the reason last week that even though both my Scout and C30 were both pegged down in a stiff breeze in the same direction only the Scout rotor rotors ran up to speed, while the C30 idled in the wrong direction. Hopefully the weather will be kind for a test flight tomorrow.

Mick

***The cable tie idea above on the blade holders was a failure. The aircraft just rolled off to the left on launch and into the ground***
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Last edited by Bravo47; Apr 09, 2012 at 04:13 PM. Reason: update content
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