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Old Oct 21, 2011, 10:43 AM
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Austria
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Originally Posted by heli-on View Post
Thanks to everyones who has contributed to this thread.

Here's my attempt to pay it forward:
What is the reason for moving the control forward ?

I did notice that my rotor is more easily able to spin while moved backward then when I move forward ... not sure if this due to my wrong handling while I try to move the rotor while I'm manually moving it in the air ...

e_lm_70
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 11:30 AM
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United States, CA, Morongo Valley
Joined Apr 2010
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The main reason is once you flip the mast braces over, they interfere with the rods. I really don't think it makes a difference if they're in front or back of the disk's hub. For some strange reason, I want to say it's going to be less strain on the servos with them in front, but again, it probably does not matter.

I almost think this is the intended design, as everything is more of a straight shot.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 11:51 AM
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United States, CA, Morongo Valley
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Originally Posted by CSV View Post
I'm a beginner for gyro so I order a C30 to Hobby. When I see the VDO it fly very well! but mine NOT
When I try to take off from the ground, when I obtain the lift off speed the gyro roll on left side and crashes.
I build a simplest one like a Twiwter: it's the same thing.
The C30 rotor turn ACW and Twister in CW.
WHAT HAPPEN?
It seems all of you don't have this problem.

Thank's
Did you do any of the suggestions in this thread? At a minimum, you need to make sure you replace the blade dampener piece they give you with the kit. It is too flexable and would cause little to no control response (especially at low RPM).

You're going to want your AUW to be as low as possible to reduce disk loading. Hang Angle (CoG) is critical and is the main reason for moving the mast back. It's going to be pointed nose down appx 12-degrees with the rotor disk level. The only people that could get away with NOT addressing this, would be the ones running heavier packs (2200mah+) - in which case the the disk loading then becomes a major issue and will force you to run at very high flight speed to keep it in the air.

Lastly is the 6-degrees of down thrust on the motor. A lot of the failure videos I've seen I can tell people have ignored this because the thing takes off and almost does a loop on them at full thrust. A better way to state it is takeoff thrust should be at about 60% of throttle. Lack of control will force you into thinking you have to apply more thrust when all it is actually doing is making the problem worse.

If you address those critical points, you should be able to perform a rolling take-off. I still think you're safest to perform the hand launch, though.

Clock-wise or CCW rotation is a function of blade design. The blades included with the HK Cierva are designed for CCW rotation, which will induce the left lean. If they were Clock-wise rotating, the lean would be to the right. It really doesn't matter, other than having an appreciation for which direction you can anticipate the lean to be on. All fixed wing aircraft require a downward-right thust angle to counter prop torque. For that reason alone, I think it makes more sense for CW rotation of the rotor. As there is no right thrust applied to the motor, having the rotor spinning CCW is accentuating the left lean tendency. This kind of has me miffed a bit because most failure cases report that left turns are more difficult to perform than right hand turns. A lot of people have suggested a 4-degree left-lean of the rotor disk for your neutral stick position. Can't say as I agree with this, but I'll have a better clue once I attempt to fly it. I'm thinking of initally going with a 2-degree lean left that I can cancel out with trim, if need be, on the maiden.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 03:15 PM
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QLD Australia
Joined Oct 2009
251 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSV View Post
I'm a beginner for gyro so I order a C30 to Hobby. When I see the VDO it fly very well! but mine NOT
When I try to take off from the ground, when I obtain the lift off speed the gyro roll on left side and crashes.
I build a simplest one like a Twiwter: it's the same thing.
The C30 rotor turn ACW and Twister in CW.
WHAT HAPPEN?
It seems all of you don't have this problem.

Thank's
You might be pulling up too much to get them off the ground.
If you try to get them airbourne too quickly, the nose will come up too steeply causing a rollover[even if you are really quick on the sticks, the gyro will not respond very well as the airspeed has slowed when the full face of the rotors were raise too quickly into he wind]

Try to level out a little just as it leaves the ground.

But its better to run further along the ground, and accelerate the rotors more slowly as it runs further.
Then do a gentle angle take off.
Do Not horse it up like a plane.

I have not felt any difference turning right or left with mine, except gyros have much more tendency to loose height in a turn than most aeroplanes.

M
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 06:46 AM
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QLD Australia
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Just a quick note of my work in progress.
Moved the elevator cross bar foreward to get more elevator control[works great]

Finially making up the new rotors.
These will be 570mm long to start with and 58mm wide.

Its much easier to make them up from model aircraft wing bits and is realitivy cheap if you shop around on the net.

Getting the bolt holes in the right place will be a challange.

M
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 09:34 AM
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Trailer Down By The River
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I just followed the rotor blade plans for the Spiro I think it's called that Britnoz gave me a link to. You should put some weight at the leading edge of the tip and the cordwise CG is where the bolt hole should go.

Here are the plans I used ,,post 113 PDF

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...yro+111&page=8
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Old Oct 24, 2011, 04:24 AM
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Elizabeth South Australia 5113
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G'Day Minirotor
The fact that three pieces of wood are jouned gives the blade strength,(thats good)
but unfortunately most of the L/E & TE mouldings that I have ever seen are pretty heavy wood (thats bad). Blades are not hard to make, just a couple of hours with a razor plane, a sanding block using some nice medium weight timber. Thats it.
Happy Landings
Chris.........
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Old Oct 24, 2011, 10:48 PM
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Trailer Down By The River
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473 Posts
Well here is a video of me flying my Cierva today with the bigger home made blades on a too windy day ! But at least my friend knows how to record and post on you tube! It aint great but it is what it is!! Thankyou Frank for posting it on Youtube!!

autogyro (2 min 58 sec)


Thanks to all that helped me to set up this autogyro to fly and Frank that videoed and posted it !!
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 04:25 AM
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Elizabeth South Australia 5113
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G'Day Turboo
Great mate ,So it was worth all the hastle eh. but lets face it,there were so many things that had to be changed to make it fly,It's going to be a hill to hard to climb for so many people. But I am pleased that you have survived OK. I must admit that the C-30 is a great looking model.( I have 3 different sizes)
Happy Landings
Chris...........
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 05:46 AM
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QLD Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBOOMNI View Post
I just followed the rotor blade plans for the Spiro I think it's called that Britnoz gave me a link to. You should put some weight at the leading edge of the tip and the cordwise CG is where the bolt hole should go.

Here are the plans I used ,,post 113 PDF

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...yro+111&page=8

TURBOOMNI--Thanks for that info on the plan.

BRITINOZ--Yes, I need to trim a lot off the top of these rotors[they need to be apx 6mm thick to get 10%]
The origionals have an apect ratio of apx 10:1[Its said that 8:1 is better, but Ill stick with 10:1]
The origionals have a thickness of 10% at 30% chord[this seems to tie in with what people have found in wind tunnel tests to be reasonable]
All these bits of balsa are very light.
I have cut the LE off and moved it down half the width to get a better leading adge profile.

M
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 04:38 PM
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Trailer Down By The River
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Originally Posted by britinoz View Post
G'Day Turboo
Great mate ,So it was worth all the hastle eh. but lets face it,there were so many things that had to be changed to make it fly,It's going to be a hill to hard to climb for so many people. But I am pleased that you have survived OK. I must admit that the C-30 is a great looking model.( I have 3 different sizes)
Happy Landings
Chris...........
Thanks a bunch there Britinoz. I think it was worth the hassle especially since it was abit of a puzzle that I was really interested in. But because of this little puzzle I am sold on autogyro's . They are fascinating birds. I'm seriously considering a LA 500 and then maybe a scratch build Dag plans from Whirlybird and start gluing again thanks to guys like you Britinoz.
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 10:12 PM
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Elizabeth South Australia 5113
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G'day Turboo.
The Dag is an easy basic build that flies pretty good .I thumped my first one into the ground so many times that I lost count with only minor repairs needed. Good choice.

G'Day Minirotor
That L/E looks a lot better. I keep my lower L/E sharp ,with no radious. If I remember corectly, the set of blades that came with my kit were 4.7mm thick (to thin). I found that 6-6.5mm was the way to go.
Happy Landings
Chris........
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 10:23 AM
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Россия, город Москва, город Москва
Joined Dec 2010
25 Posts
My congratulations for TURBOOMNI! Nice flight, and interesting idea about new blades.

As for me, I continue to enjoy my Cierva!

Untitled (2 min 26 sec)
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 06:49 PM
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Australia
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Nice flying Stork1, you make it look so easy
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 08:30 PM
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Elizabeth South Australia 5113
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G'Day Vadim
Nice flying. I also like your biplanes.
Happy Landings
Chris.....
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