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Old Jul 19, 2011, 07:39 AM
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After my experience with this thing, and I have one in the box, modifications are like sticking a diamond in a jackass's behind.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by TURBOOMNI View Post
It's just the opposite. He cut the arms so he would get more throw from the same input of the servos. The result would be more aileron throw but no more elevator throw.
OK thanks I get it now, but would doing this make the heli more touchy to roll over when all advice seems to be to attempt to maintain a relatively flat rudder coordinated type turn?
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 06:27 AM
JOHN 3:16
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I shortened my arms about 7-8mm not so much to gain the extra throw, but to allow the control rods to fit better as I moved my mast rearward.

Haven't flown mine yet, but it's getting close.


QUESTION: Did everyone's blades have the pair of holes predrilled (under the silver covering) for attachment to the head? I probed mine a little but haven't found the slightest hole in any of them
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 07:02 AM
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They should be there: hold it up to a very strong light.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 07:25 AM
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I would recommend NOT using the plastic clevis's that came with the kit as I know of one guy that lost his because one of the little plastic darlings broke inflight. The ball links seem fine at the head.
Don't forget to balance the blades!! I used only the outside hole bolt and it save the blades on a tipover. I also used 6 degrees of down thrust and hang angle Britnoz recommends.
May the Force Be With You!!!
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 07:41 AM
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You will need the force: this thing scares my donkey!
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TURBOOMNI View Post
I would recommend NOT using the plastic clevis's that came with the kit as I know of one guy that lost his because one of the little plastic darlings broke inflight.
I drilled a small hole through my clevis's and fitted a small screw and lock nut. Its a simple fix if youve got some small screws in your spares.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 11:25 AM
JOHN 3:16
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I did away with the plastic clevis all together on mine.


On the motor thrust angles: Will the typical (of fixed wing planes) down/right angles suffice for this bird? I don't have an incidence/angle finding gauge at the moment...
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 12:38 PM
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I did what Britnoz said he did. If I remember correctly it was 6 degrees Downthrust and no right ,,just straight. I know that seems like alot I know but this is a completely different animal!! Lol,,, But please do check on this thread what Britnoz said here on this topic to be sure and I think he showed pics of hang angle etc. My theory on this down thrust is it needs to be this much on this model at least to help keep the eggbeater loaded [rotor] and help to keep it from nosing up which can be fatal. Another thing I learned is if this happens just think of the elevator as the throttle. If it is going nose up back off the throttle and let it settle down to level. Going nose up with lots of throttle and pushing the right stick forward could be fatal too I think. Make sure your head is assembled correctly!! All 3 rotor heads I have were assembled at the factory Backwards!!
Man, Cierva was a very brave man to fly these things in the beginning and to think he died in a DC3 I believe.
Live Long and Prosper!!
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 01:20 PM
JOHN 3:16
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Too much down?
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 02:01 PM
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Sammy you need to measure it. Eyeing it is inaccurate and a photo ,,who nows! Got an adjustable protractor or Robart gauge>?
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 03:01 PM
JOHN 3:16
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Got an adjustable protractor or Robart gauge>?

Nope. May have to pick something up...
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 04:21 PM
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Another rotor moved back...

Moved the rotor back approximately 16mm and it made the hang angle increase to that recommended by britinoz.
The machine flys better now. It has a total of 8 flights, the last 2 of them with this mod.
I did it with a small aluminum(1/16 inch thick) rectangle properly drilled - see attached photo.
Other ways to move the rotor back have already been given by britinoz & turboomni - this is just another way to do it.
John
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 04:23 PM
JOHN 3:16
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What's the rest of your setup Shoersa?
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 04:35 PM
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Sam - refer to post 681 thru 684 for more info.
The only other change has been a prop/current change.
Now running an APC 9x6 SF which is taking ~ 18A full throttle on 3S lipo.
John
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