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Old Jun 22, 2012, 04:10 PM
Registered User
Lisbon, Portugal
Joined Oct 2005
201 Posts
Thanks.

The fuse slots were a bit harder to correctly know their sizes. That helps a lot.

Going to mill the mold now and cast some lead.

Regards
Gonšalo
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 04:51 AM
Armsoar test pilot
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2008
586 Posts
Hi all,
I now have a second hand repaired Fosa and we had our first day out on Sunday. I can't wait to get is sorted - I knocked out a 15.4s speed run in our local comp so that was a highlight.

Two questions:
1. I have some hysteresis in the flaps (RDS) of about 0.5-1.0mm. Does anyone know how to fix it?

2. Also I had to repair the flaps near the ailerons so I am not sure where neutral is on the flaps. I tried lining them up on the fuz but its not really clear. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers,
Marcus
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 06:01 AM
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Joined Jul 2008
306 Posts
Interesting question Marcus. I had 3mm slop on flaps with RDS. What happens is the end of the arm wears a grove in the box because its always under pressure.
I fixed mine by converting the flaps back to conventional drive.
Try putting a straight edge on the bottom of the wing to the flaps to guestimate your neutral, other then that I dont know.

Mick
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 07:33 AM
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 07:19 AM
OTA
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Norway
Joined Aug 2008
378 Posts
My Fosa is arrived, what a beauty. Finish build from Baudis. Why didnt I order this earlier ? Well, now its here
MKS 6125 for wings and Graupner DS 3781 for fuse.

Anyway, It needs weight in the nose to be balanced. What do you guys typically had to add ?

Thanks
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 02:09 PM
Build A Rocket Boys!
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Portland, Oregon
Joined May 2002
4,060 Posts
Nice color scheme OTA. Great to hear Baudis is offering the RTF versions.

Fosa F3F Test Flight... Average Sunday (3 min 39 sec)
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 03:15 PM
OTA
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Norway
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378 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PDX Slope Pilot View Post
Nice color scheme OTA. Great to hear Baudis is offering the RTF versions.
Thanks. BTW, i dumped it into the mud today on first flight It flipped out of control totally at launch. Luckily it hit "perfectly" with the nose cone and only damage was broken wing joiners and the cone itself. Wings and the fuse except a very few fractures under the nose cone survived without any damage. Incredible.

Anyway, checking why the heck it could behave totally whacked, i have placed the hook at 118mm from nose cone (behind CG) as mentioned here, which seems quite contradicionary compared to Baudis recommendings which should more or less be 109 behind nose cone. The situation didnt likely improve much by having little camber setting for the first launch.

The plane didnt lift off vertically as it was supposed to do, but more or less shoot out horisontally and flipped sideway, trying to correct it it did flip the other way to inverted in a blink of an eye time

I am confused, could someone summarise recommended settings (from either LE or nose cone). Should I expect extrem sensitive behaviour on this model ?
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Last edited by OTA; Sep 23, 2012 at 03:35 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 04:30 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
21,862 Posts
1. Start with the hook AHEAD OF the CG.

2. Start with less wing camber than you think you will end up with.

3. Use a little down elevator in your "launch" setting, and 100% differential on the ailerons (NO down aileron!). I usually try to make ONLY the ailerons move with aileron stick on the launch mode; the flaps stay in one place.

4. Use plenty of rudder mixed to ailerons in launch mode, about 100% is a good start.

These are NOT Fosa settings per se, they are safe settings for any F3B plane.

R,
Target
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 05:17 PM
OTA
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Norway
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378 Posts
Thanks Target

I launch my Ascot in the thermal mode, nothing dramatic at all, so today was shocking. For the sake of good order, I dont compete F3B so winching is just those days slopes is not around.

Still interested in confirmation on settings, post 302 and 303 respectively suggest 118,5mm and 109mm (Jiri !?) for tow hook. CG 98mm (Jiri) and 117mm.
Have assumed 98 is from LE while 117 is from nose cone, giving close to the same numbers for CG, but 10mm difference in hook seems quite a lot.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 06:01 PM
Also known as simon_t
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Kent, England
Joined Nov 2005
275 Posts
I have been flying Fosa since they came out - Taking the Rear face of cone as reference, the CG is 118mm and the hook is 117mm (rear face of hook, where tow ring would touch). It is probably the best model I have had for strong straight tows.

Simon
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 06:02 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
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You certainly don't want to have your CG 10mm behind the sweet spot!

As for the hook, a simple approach is to start with it all the way forward in the slot, and move it back little by little....
This assumes its mounted in the right range to begin with, but Baudis models normally come from the factory without any drama.
Jiri can be trusted.

R,
Target
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 09:02 PM
Registered User
San Diego
Joined Aug 2004
2,316 Posts
If you have your cg measured at 98 mm from the le, the hook measured to 118 from the nose cone should be pretty close to right on the cg. You should be using about 15 mm of camber for launch measured at the flap root. Using less than this may cause the model to stall if not thrown hard enough. These settings are optimized for F3b where someone else is usually throwing for you. If you don't have a lot of F3b experience, by all means use a more conservative hook location.
Tom
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 04:23 AM
OTA
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Norway
Joined Aug 2008
378 Posts
Thanks for all the good advises gents. Today I regret that I didnt do the first few flights on a slope instead of straight to the winch Anyway, I was supposed to use this plane for a F3F weekend and competitions in a couple of weeks and it sucks that it is grounded due to the broken joiners.

Anyone having a spare set or survivors from a crash, please let me know.

Thanks

ěystein
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 07:55 AM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
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The baudis joiners break in a hard dork to save the wings from more damage.
Good to have a spare if you can afford to.

R,
Target
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 08:42 AM
OTA
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Norway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by target View Post
The baudis joiners break in a hard dork to save the wings from more damage.
Good to have a spare if you can afford to.

R,
Target
No doubt, I am HAPPY they broke and saved the wings and fuse. A very pleasant design. Just need new joiners now.
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