Originally Posted by target

Also, Jiri used to include a little "donut sticker" that came with his RDS. The way it works, is that you peel the backing away, and place it on the servo shaft, centered. Then you push the yoke down over the servo shaft, and the outside part of the staicker "breaks off" and gets stuck down to the top of the servo...
Glue won't get in the screw hole, nor stuck onto the top of the servo!

This is the BEST EVER 5 cent part created!

R,
Target

So that's what those are for??!! Mystery solved. Yes, Jiri still includes them.

And they work so great....

Target,

Can you ping me off line... slopepilot <at> gmail <dot> com

Thanks,

Vic

Pinged, but I'm headed offshore for a couple of days.

R,
Target

I picked up a set of these RDS systems to put in a new project. The wipers came as a straight wire. How are you bending the wire so clean? Are you bending the wipers cold or heating the area were the bend is with a torch. I'm also thinking of making a jig to make the bends as accurate as possible.

Thanks

Originally Posted by PDX Slope Pilot

I took notes and thought I would share with others what Tom (tewatson) covered in our conversation this morning. Hopefully it will help those new to RDS. Some of this information is a repeat of what Tom/Target already covered. There is also installation pics/info previously discussed in the thread so an entire read through it will be helpful. If I omitted key points, let me know and I will amend the list.

RDS Installation on Baudis Fosa:

1. Place masking tape on bottom of wing near aileron/flap and mark outside edges of RDS pocket. You want the wiper rod to be near the middle of the pocket. Wiper bend should be over the hinge line on the ailerons; bend should be about 1mm aft of hinge line on flaps.

2. Consider bending flap wiper rod an additional 5* to get more flap throw; this will increase angle from 50* to 55*. Total flap throw will be about 60* after this mod. Be very careful to only bend the rod at the bend point.

3. If this is your first RDS install, install ailerons first, then move to the flaps. Reason: flap install is slightly more challenging.

4. Attach coupler/wiper rod to servo and lay on wing to determine actual wiper arm length needed. Mark wiper rod at correct length and wrap masking tape around wiper rod. This will ensure the wiper rod seats at the correct position in the coupler.

5. Glue wiper rods to coupler with slow cure JB Weld. Before you do that, place clear donut sticker included by Baudis on the servo shaft, centered. Push the yoke down over the servo shaft, and the outside part of the sticker "breaks off" and gets stuck down to the top of the servo. (Thanks for the tip Target.) If that's not available, place a small piece of foam down in the coupler to prevent any glue from contacting the servo output shaft. Sandwich servos between two pieces of wood with masking tape. You want to position the servos (both of them) side-by-side, oriented vertically (rods pointing up) so the wiper end doesn't act like a lever and rotate them out of alignment before the glue cures. The servos should be laid flat, with one shaft on the far right and the other to the far left, so when the wiper rods are inserted, both point up, but the wiper ends are pointing in towards one another. This makes it easy to verify equal length (since the wiper tips are fairly close together) and alignment. Sight down from the top to ensure the wiper end of the rod is parallel with the servo case/center-line. If you do this, the aileron/flaps will be at the correct neutral position (+/- a few trim clicks) when installed. Let JB Weld cure fully.

6. Sand/clean up wood servo frames supplied. Shape and remove areas as needed so coupler, servo and bearing housing seat properly. Size/sand G10 bearing housing as needed then CA to servo frame.

7. Bottom of wood frame needs to be sanded to conform to wing skin. Take time to make sure wood frame seats properly and contacts wing skin. The flap and aileron frames may need a small shim near the end of one frame leg (1/32nd ply). This will become evident when you do the install.

8. Once wiper rods have cured, insert servo frame, followed by coupler/wiper. Finally, slide servo into frame and coupler. Hint: a 5mm open-ended ignition wrench placed on the shelf of the coupler helps provide counter pressure to slide coupler on to servo. Screw servo in to servo frame. Additional tip: hex head servo screws are preferred over phillip screws as no downward pressure is needed to tighten.

9. Make sure everything is assembled and servo frame screws are tightened when gluing in, also power up the servo and actuate it again to confirm final position where there is the least amount of binding. Correct location will be self-evident. Mark location and glue servo frame to wing skin.

10. Use clear overhead with Sharpie to trace final servo position and angle. Use tracing as a guide to install servo in opposite wing.

11. You're done!

The wipers come pre-bent when they are supplied with airframes. Adding a few degrees of bend for flaps is relatively easy, you just have to ensure things are clamped correctly and pressure is applied in the right place to avoid bowing the straight sections.

Tom

After the coaching session from Tom and Target this past weekend, I am moving forward with the Fosa build. I started by gluing the wiper arms to the couplers. I used a little different approach than the jig previously pictured. The servo was taped to flat granite surface; I powered up the servo to find the neutral point and used the end of a 3mm drill bit to prop the end up to ensure it is square with the servo case. A little more time involved doing it this way (since I just have one drill bit) but gives me piece of mind over using my eye to line it up.

Hey Vic,

can't wait to meet you so you can explain me all that. Less work for me to figure out

My Fosa is the next one on the block.

Thierry

Don't forget the brass tubing. The RDS kit I picked up has a brass sleeve that supports the wiper through the Sub Trailing edge.

The tubing is for the flaps, and if using frames with the support bearing, unnecessary. The intent is to bond them to the drag spar, but without a telescoping wiper arrangement, this can cause binding. My planes both have the tubes installed, but they are not bonded to anything, so really serve no purpose.

Tom

Yes, the transmission may not be entirely axial.
This means that when you operate the flaps, the shaft/transmission will move a little at the hinge line (the shaft will move a little up/down/sideways).

So I have mounted the brass tubing support at the flaps with flexible mounting glue (like sicaflex or similar), the one I have used is not like silicone (soft rubber) but becomes more like a harder kind of rubber.
This is to allow movement without binding, but still give some support to the transmission in a hard landing.

I guess it might be best not to mount it if it's not needed.

Got around to bending the flap wiper arms today. Increased the wiper bend from 50* to 55*. Bending pressure was placed at the wiper bend to keep the rod from bowing.

Hi, could someone please measure the size of each ballast slug (fuse and wing), please?

I lost mine... And now I'll probably cast some lead ones... just need the original sizes.

Thanks

Originally Posted by _King_Pin_

Hi, could someone please measure the size of each ballast slug (fuse and wing), please?

I lost mine... And now I'll probably cast some lead ones... just need the original sizes.

Thanks

Thank you very much

Here are the measurements taken from my ballast set:

109mm x 14mm (4 pieces)
48,5mm x 16mm x 10mm (8 pieces)

Regards,

Victor