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Old Mar 24, 2012, 10:39 PM
Feeling lucky .... Punk
joel63's Avatar
United States, TX, Irving
Joined Sep 2007
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Vic, I wonder, has anyone ever drilled & tapped the coupler for a grub screw to bypass using epoxy ?
Is the coupler thick enough ?
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 10:49 PM
Detail Freak
target's Avatar
Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
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The ober arrangement uses that style, but a stud screws into the output shaft screw hole, and the grub screw pinches that.

IMO, you don't really need any of that. Just make a collar (or the bearing it comes with) that rides against the shoulder of the yoke, and "It ain't goin' nowhere, no-how!"....

R,
Target
I thought the yokes came splined now... No need for splooge.
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 10:44 AM
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PDX Slope Pilot's Avatar
Portland, Oregon
Joined May 2002
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Target,

Thanks for the tips and guidance; very much appreciated, sir. I looked at the RDS spreadsheet and it is helpful. I need to get a decent protractor but it appears the wiper bend on the flap wiper provided by Baudis is about 50*. If I'm looking at it correctly, if I install the servo at about a 45* to the hinge line that should yield 69.5* of down flap @ 110* total servo throw.

What specifically should I be looking for to make sure "there is full engagement of the wiper in the pocket"?

And yes, the yoke/coupler is splined now. Joel is talking about the use of a grub screw on the coupler to wiper connection so you can easily adjust where the wiper bend is positioned @ the hinge line.
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 10:53 AM
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Spoke with Tom this morning and he cleared up my questions plus give me some great tips. Thanks Tom!
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Last edited by PDX Slope Pilot; Mar 25, 2012 at 01:17 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 10:56 AM
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PDX Slope Pilot's Avatar
Portland, Oregon
Joined May 2002
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The overall question I have with RDS over conventional linkage is surface play. Will the pockets eventually wear and create surface play and if so, is there a remedy to fix it?
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 01:39 PM
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Leave the Fosa alone Vic, I prefer models to be NIB. Play with the Hurricane.
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 01:59 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDX Slope Pilot View Post
The overall question I have with RDS over conventional linkage is surface play. Will the pockets eventually wear and create surface play and if so, is there a remedy to fix it?
If you consider the surface area, there is a lot more with a full depth RDS pocket than with a conventional linkage with pins in holes.....

The comment I made for full wiper engagement refers more to some other designs with very narrow (fore to aft) pocket material, and fixed length wipers. When you start changing the bend angle and shaft angle, things get tricky with those designs. As far as I know, Baudis planes never have used these types of pockets.

R,
Target
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by target View Post
If you consider the surface area, there is a lot more with a full depth RDS pocket than with a conventional linkage with pins in holes.....

The comment I made for full wiper engagement refers more to some other designs with very narrow (fore to aft) pocket material, and fixed length wipers. When you start changing the bend angle and shaft angle, things get tricky with those designs. As far as I know, Baudis planes never have used these types of pockets.

R,
Target
Thanks Target. Makes sense. I think the time/effort I am spending to get though this learning curve will pay off. Looks like lots of models are going with RDS linkages these days. I presume F3J models will be next? I can't see any theoretical drawbacks with RDS on the Fosa. Servos can be serviced quickly in the field too. Glad I decided not to install conventional linkage; as Tom said "that would be sacrilegious."
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 05:21 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
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When it comes to doing a first RDS install, you will spend a lot of time looking at things.
And then you will glue in the frames, and be done, and hopefully, very happy with the results. After that, you just fly.
Make sure not to run the MKS's on more than 5.8v.

R,
Target
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 05:26 PM
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For sure, thanks T. I will be using a Hyperion 1450 LiFe and a Greentronics RegSlim which provides an output of 5.6v.
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 05:37 PM
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Portland, Oregon
Joined May 2002
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Fosa RDS Install Instructions

I took notes and thought I would share with others what Tom (tewatson) covered in our conversation this morning. Hopefully it will help those new to RDS. Some of this information is a repeat of what Tom/Target already covered. There is also installation pics/info previously discussed in the thread so an entire read through it will be helpful. If I omitted key points, let me know and I will amend the list.

RDS Installation on Baudis Fosa:

1. Place masking tape on bottom of wing near aileron/flap and mark outside edges of RDS pocket. You want the wiper rod to be near the middle of the pocket. Wiper bend should be over the hinge line on the ailerons; bend should be about 1mm aft of hinge line on flaps.

2. Consider bending flap wiper rod an additional 5* to get more flap throw; this will increase angle from 50* to 55*. Total flap throw will be about 60* after this mod. Be very careful to only bend the rod at the bend point.

3. If this is your first RDS install, install ailerons first, then move to the flaps. Reason: flap install is slightly more challenging.

4. Attach coupler/wiper rod to servo and lay on wing to determine actual wiper arm length needed. Mark wiper rod at correct length and wrap masking tape around wiper rod. This will ensure the wiper rod seats at the correct position in the coupler.

5. Glue wiper rods to coupler with slow cure JB Weld. Before you do that, place clear donut sticker included by Baudis on the servo shaft, centered. Push the yoke down over the servo shaft, and the outside part of the sticker "breaks off" and gets stuck down to the top of the servo. (Thanks for the tip Target.) If that's not available, place a small piece of foam down in the coupler to prevent any glue from contacting the servo output shaft. Sandwich servos between two pieces of wood with masking tape. You want to position the servos (both of them) side-by-side, oriented vertically (rods pointing up) so the wiper end doesn't act like a lever and rotate them out of alignment before the glue cures. The servos should be laid flat, with one shaft on the far right and the other to the far left, so when the wiper rods are inserted, both point up, but the wiper ends are pointing in towards one another. This makes it easy to verify equal length (since the wiper tips are fairly close together) and alignment. Sight down from the top to ensure the wiper end of the rod is parallel with the servo case/center-line. If you do this, the aileron/flaps will be at the correct neutral position (+/- a few trim clicks) when installed. Let JB Weld cure fully.

6. Sand/clean up wood servo frames supplied. Shape and remove areas as needed so coupler, servo and bearing housing seat properly. Size/sand G10 bearing housing as needed then CA to servo frame.

7. Bottom of wood frame needs to be sanded to conform to wing skin. Take time to make sure wood frame seats properly and contacts wing skin. The flap and aileron frames may need a small shim near the end of one frame leg (1/32nd ply). This will become evident when you do the install.

8. Once wiper rods have cured, insert servo frame, followed by coupler/wiper. Finally, slide servo into frame and coupler. Hint: a 5mm open-ended ignition wrench placed on the shelf of the coupler helps provide counter pressure to slide coupler on to servo. Screw servo in to servo frame. Additional tip: hex head servo screws are preferred over phillip screws as no downward pressure is needed to tighten.

9. Make sure everything is assembled and servo frame screws are tightened when gluing in, also power up the servo and actuate it again to confirm final position where there is the least amount of binding. Correct location will be self-evident. Mark location and glue servo frame to wing skin.

10. Use clear overhead with Sharpie to trace final servo position and angle. Use tracing as a guide to install servo in opposite wing.

11. You're done!
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Last edited by PDX Slope Pilot; Mar 25, 2012 at 08:49 PM. Reason: Instructions amended
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 07:24 PM
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Last edited by ibuild; Oct 19, 2013 at 03:03 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:17 PM
Eggcellent...
tewatson's Avatar
United States, CA, Orange
Joined Oct 2006
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I would be hesitant to apply any sort of lubricant (other than perhaps some graphite powder) to the RDS pockets. You don't want anything sticky in there that will attract or retain dirt.

Tom
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:25 PM
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Old Mar 25, 2012, 08:35 PM
Detail Freak
target's Avatar
Harbor City, CA
Joined Oct 2003
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Its much more dusty here in California....
My Ceres's never ever got dusty the entire 10 days I was on Slovakia for VR2008....Its much less dirty there in Europe.....

So, that may explain why you can use grease, and we cant. Ours would turn into "wet sandpaper"!

Also, Jiri used to include a little "donut sticker" that came with his RDS. The way it works, is that you peel the backing away, and place it on the servo shaft, centered. Then you push the yoke down over the servo shaft, and the outside part of the staicker "breaks off" and gets stuck down to the top of the servo...
Glue won't get in the screw hole, nor stuck onto the top of the servo!

This is the BEST EVER 5 cent part created!

R,
Target
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