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Old Nov 13, 2010, 12:17 PM
fuel and electric flyer
Los Angeles, California
Joined Dec 2006
36 Posts
Last Thursday(Nov.4,2010) I ordered a Nitroplanes Dynam Grand Cruiser. I received the package on Monday(Nov.8,2010). I opened the package and the parts are triple packed in thick packing board for triple protection. I have not started building yet. The Nitroplanes RTF version has the servos, flight battery(2200 mah 3s 20c), charger, motors, 2 ESC, Rx, wingtanks green and red navigation lights and rudder tip red navigation light ALL wired in and ready for action. The flap cutouts and the retract ready cutouts are already factory cut ready for flap and aftermarket retract installation. The RTF kit comes with fixed gear and the nose gear has a working oleo spring loaded steerable strut. The decals are lovely. The workmanship of the molded foam parts are very good. So yesterday I ordered from HobbyKing.com the complete 3 gear servoless electronic retractable landing gear set complete with the control module, wheels, struts and wheel locking collars for $74.23 and I also ordered the alloy 3 gear shock absorbing spring loaded landing gear struts complete with the rubber wheels for $28.14 and the shipping for the whole order was $9.99. HobbyKing.com shipped the package already when I checked the status of my order this morning. So quick!!! Tomorrow afternoon I will assemble the Dynam Grand Cruiser and test flight it maybe afterwards. Will put the retracts as soon as it arrives next week.
As for strengthening the center wing box...........I have a lot of electric brushless planes and the EPO wing will flex and not break on high G manuevers. I have second thoughts on the spar modification as I want the wing to break in a crash and absorb the impact rather than being rigid and transferring the impact force to the fuselage and breaking the fuselage. In my experience......wing EPO repairs are easier than fuselage EPO repairs. I find it easier to do wing EPO repairs than a broken EPO fuselage repair(I have crashed and hit trees and other obstacles as I also fly in a baseball park surrounded by wire fence and tall trees all around). Also, wing EPO repair is easier to cover up with some paint or covering material(decals, etc.) than fuselage EPO repair. That is just my 2c...of course. 'Nuff said.
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Old Nov 13, 2010, 01:23 PM
Just "plane addicted"...
BacknRC's Avatar
Pennsylvania
Joined May 2010
73 Posts
Larry,

Are you sure your lights came with wiring already installed or is it just the LED's installed but not connected to anything? I'm curious to know.
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Old Nov 13, 2010, 01:45 PM
Just "plane addicted"...
BacknRC's Avatar
Pennsylvania
Joined May 2010
73 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Allelectric View Post
My wing broke on both sides, one side was just hidden by the fuselage in the first pictures. The breaks are filled in now, but they both made their way through the wheel wells. I thought all of you might like to see what your wing looks like without the inserts. When you exclude the flap area, there's not a whole lot of meat left in the remainder of the cord!
Good point.
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Old Nov 13, 2010, 08:21 PM
Wisdom can not be granted.
Orion Pax's Avatar
Shreveport Louisiana
Joined Dec 2006
6,300 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrysogla View Post
As for strengthening the center wing box...........I have a lot of electric brushless planes and the EPO wing will flex and not break on high G manuevers. I have second thoughts on the spar modification as I want the wing to break in a crash and absorb the impact rather than being rigid and transferring the impact force to the fuselage and breaking the fuselage. In my experience......wing EPO repairs are easier than fuselage EPO repairs. I find it easier to do wing EPO repairs than a broken EPO fuselage repair(I have crashed and hit trees and other obstacles as I also fly in a baseball park surrounded by wire fence and tall trees all around). Also, wing EPO repair is easier to cover up with some paint or covering material(decals, etc.) than fuselage EPO repair. That is just my 2c...of course. 'Nuff said.
I understand where your coming from on this. EPO does repair easily and if you fly in an area that creates a crash prone situation then your method makes since. However, lots of us have wide open areas to fly and for a wing to break apart from a touch and go landing is not good. It is better to reinforce for flight than to anticipate a crash. I would rather my wing handle what ever flying I can throw at it without question than be easily broken in a crash for repairs sake. I hope I am making sense here. Planes were meant to fly not crash and if you build for the ease of crashing then you are only welcoming the inevitable. If you build for better flight then the crash may be less likely. All planes have an expiration date, they just don't stamp it on the plane. I like to go in and make sure that the expire date is as far out as I can make it. A good rule of thumb is to build for better flight and let the crashes handle themselves.

Orion
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Old Nov 13, 2010, 10:24 PM
Registered User
North Carolina
Joined Sep 2003
2,196 Posts
If you fly the plane scale, I'm sure it would be ok, but if you fly like the majority of people I see flying foamies, it will fail. It is for sure a very weak wing center section. Mine has a lightply sub spar. The DC-3 has a nice carbon spar in it. I guess Dynam thought it was not needed in the 310? Biggest thing to remember is to go over the airframe from head to toe before flying. Every joint, sub-assembly, mech connection.........ect......ect........I reglued/fixed/retightened a bunch of stuff on my 310. Never trust anything on any arf.
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Old Nov 13, 2010, 10:29 PM
Wisdom can not be granted.
Orion Pax's Avatar
Shreveport Louisiana
Joined Dec 2006
6,300 Posts
I like flying scale but I like knowing I have the added insurance in a dive or for that less than perfect landing we all have.
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Old Nov 14, 2010, 02:41 AM
fuel and electric flyer
Los Angeles, California
Joined Dec 2006
36 Posts
As I understand it....."Allelectric" on post no.59 said that the right motor became unglued and when he hit the throttle to do the "touch and go" the right motor flipped upwards and cut the wing and the fuselage and then with only the left motor running the plane did "a wingover" in his own words......which I interpret as the airplane doing a cartwheel on the wings.....which broke the wing in 3 pieces. The crash was not due to wing failure in flight but was due to the right motor mount glue failure. As I have lots of EPO brushless planes on which I do hard maneuvers........the wings just flex and do not break. Due to crashes(dumb thumb, trees capturing my unsuspecting model airplanes and other obstacles acting like balsa magnets but never due to wing failure in flight) I have replaced a lot of broken fuselages which are harder to repair and are harder to camouflage the repair lines and repair joints.......but I have not replaced yet one single wing on my crashed planes........as long as the repair is done in proper alignment, the wing will perform well and decals or paint hide easily the repair joints and so my crashed planes fly with new fuselages but with repaired wings unreplaced. Anyway......to each his own. Different folks, different strokes. 'Nuff said.
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Old Nov 14, 2010, 03:07 AM
fuel and electric flyer
Los Angeles, California
Joined Dec 2006
36 Posts
BacknRC,
The wingtip tank LED's are red on one side and green on the opposite side. The rudder tip LED is red. All the 3 LED's have wires already installed up to the connection of the wingtip tanks to the wing and the rudder LED red light wires already installed up to the bottom of the rudder................ready for fuselage extension wires and wing extension wires to be hooked up to a battery or to the receiver or to a stand alone light control module for flashing and blinking light action.........one can also install landing lights if one felt up to the additional trouble. 'Nuff said.
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Old Nov 14, 2010, 07:00 AM
Just "plane addicted"...
BacknRC's Avatar
Pennsylvania
Joined May 2010
73 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrysogla View Post
BacknRC,
The wingtip tank LED's are red on one side and green on the opposite side. The rudder tip LED is red. All the 3 LED's have wires already installed up to the connection of the wingtip tanks to the wing and the rudder LED red light wires already installed up to the bottom of the rudder................ready for fuselage extension wires and wing extension wires to be hooked up to a battery or to the receiver or to a stand alone light control module for flashing and blinking light action.........one can also install landing lights if one felt up to the additional trouble. 'Nuff said.

Well then looks like they forgot to do it on mine. I have the LEDS on the wingtip tanks and rudder but no wires coming out from either. I also got mine from NP as an RTF right around the same time you did.

I just got done cutting away the foam on the wingtip tanks to install the wiring only to find the LED contacts filled over with that sticky glue. Thx for the update.
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Old Nov 14, 2010, 07:44 AM
Registered User
maguro's Avatar
United States, DE, Bear
Joined Apr 2007
1,567 Posts
In case anyone didn't know the red light goes on the left wing, the green on the right.

Roger
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Old Nov 14, 2010, 07:55 AM
Wisdom can not be granted.
Orion Pax's Avatar
Shreveport Louisiana
Joined Dec 2006
6,300 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrysogla View Post
As I understand it....."Allelectric" on post no.59 said that the right motor became unglued and when he hit the throttle to do the "touch and go" the right motor flipped upwards and cut the wing and the fuselage and then with only the left motor running the plane did "a wingover" in his own words......which I interpret as the airplane doing a cartwheel on the wings.....which broke the wing in 3 pieces. The crash was not due to wing failure in flight but was due to the right motor mount glue failure. As I have lots of EPO brushless planes on which I do hard maneuvers........the wings just flex and do not break. Due to crashes(dumb thumb, trees capturing my unsuspecting model airplanes and other obstacles acting like balsa magnets but never due to wing failure in flight) I have replaced a lot of broken fuselages which are harder to repair and are harder to camouflage the repair lines and repair joints.......but I have not replaced yet one single wing on my crashed planes........as long as the repair is done in proper alignment, the wing will perform well and decals or paint hide easily the repair joints and so my crashed planes fly with new fuselages but with repaired wings unreplaced. Anyway......to each his own. Different folks, different strokes. 'Nuff said.

Oh I know why his failed. I was not entirely relating to that. However you did mention the cartwheel portion and I will say that the F4F from Parkzone has a carbon tube running continuously from one wing to the next through the fuselage and several guys have cartwheeled that plane, dusted it off, and threw it back in the air. EPO is strong stuff indeed but it is still foam. One of the properties of foam is that as it flexes and ages it looses its composure. Similar to aluminum that the more you bend it, that area gets weaker and weaker. SO you have a plane that the wing flexes on regularly, it will eventually fail on you. Lets not forget that the areas for the retracts and flaps have already been removed and the foam bits are just double sided taped in there. Its nice that we don't have to cut those areas out for that and I am thrilled that they did it but it weakens the structural integrity of the wing.

I totally understand your reasoning and its not a bad thing, entirely. Its more or less a mind set. Your anticipating ease of repairs because you expect to crash. I don't expect to crash. I build or modify to suit the way I fly. The crashes handle themselves and when one happens I determine if its repairable or not and proceed in that chosen direction. It doesn't matter if it is a wing or a fuselage, they all repair the same. I am confident in my bodywork and painting ability that you will never know it happened. I know that not everyone is that way and yes it is truly a different strokes for different folks situation.

I still plan to do a fix list on this plane when it gets in. Philip from PW-RC.com gave me some tips on the retracts that need to be mentioned if any of you guys do the retracts and I plan to approach this plane from my building perspective to see if I can anticipate other failures other than the engine mounts/firewall. Just looking at pictures though it looks like the main retract area will need different mounting blocks and if the screws that hold the wing on are nylon those will need to be changed out so the wing can be removed for transport. I have a week and a half to ponder before it gets here.

Orion
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Old Nov 14, 2010, 08:32 AM
Just "plane addicted"...
BacknRC's Avatar
Pennsylvania
Joined May 2010
73 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by maguro View Post
In case anyone didn't know the red light goes on the left wing, the green on the right.

Roger
Hey Roger,

Didn't know if you were noticing my icon of my micro P-51 but I reversed the picture - it just looked better, but based on the picture, it does look like I can't tell my left from my right!!!
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Old Nov 14, 2010, 07:05 PM
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Allelectric's Avatar
Sedona, Arizona
Joined Nov 2006
284 Posts
Awesome flying plane!

It was a great day to go flying here in Arizona! Clear blue skies, very little breeze. So nice, I took most of the schoolyard flyers. Warmed up on the T-28 and A-7, then it was time to hand launch the 310. Modifications were as follows: No gear, one fiber washer (little thicker than a metal one) at the top of the motors, and sloflyer 8x6 props. Same Flightmax 3s 2200 20C battery. All controls set at neutral, CG at 55mm.

Flew right out of my friend's hands straight and level! Awesome flying plane! Tracks like it's on a string, very predictable, no weird gyrations at all. Brought it down low to the grass at full speed, no dips, no errors. Much snappier than with the 3-blade props. They look good for a static display, otherwise, tose them! I checked out wing flex by putting it through the usual acrobatics, and no flex! Really glad I installed that ply spar!

Landing on the grass was perfect. Didn't have the data logger in it, but after six minutes of fun flying, the battery read 11.4 volts. I am totally thrilled and satisfied with this plane! Sky King and Penny would be proud! I would say the closest single motor plane I could compare it's flying characteristics to is the PZ Corsair. And, much better than the Eflite P-38 I used to have! The only modification I would do at this point is to relieve the battery area to accept a 2500-2650 battery. Oh, and now I can fix the prop gashes in the fuselage from last weekend!

That's it guys! Go for it!

John
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Old Nov 14, 2010, 07:24 PM
Wisdom can not be granted.
Orion Pax's Avatar
Shreveport Louisiana
Joined Dec 2006
6,300 Posts
YAY!!!

Glad to hear it all went well. So 1 washer at the top and its smooth sailing, er I meant flying. I wonder how the 10x8 props off the eflite P-38 would work. They produce great power on my 450 and 480 setups.

Thanks for the report.
Orion
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Old Nov 14, 2010, 08:30 PM
Rc Flying is my Sanity!
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United States, CA, San Jacinto
Joined Mar 2010
487 Posts
Great Info guy's! Ordered mine today from PW......
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