The S1M class is now voting on whether to make boats without bulkheads legal. If you jump the gun, you may build a boat you cannot race.

Originally Posted by seefest

I sail almost exclusively in salt water. I live 7/10ths of a mile from where we sail. I rinse my boats off thouroughly after every sail and I still get corrosion on non-stainless or brass fittings. Its maddening actually.

I don't think he would have a problem with the steel in his rudder if it was sealed though.

Good to know, thanks. My water is brackish at the dock out back, more fresh than salt....but I'm sure I'll be sailing in salt as well. I used to rinse dive gear with water mixed with a good dash of vinegar. Breaks the salt down very well. I bet that would be helpful in a spray bottle.

Here is the Main Bulkhead and ply reinforcement template and relief cut out for the "New Reinforced main bulkhead". It was made from 3/32" 7-ply aircraft plywood. I cut the plastic bulkhead on my scroll saw and the plastic was so warm it welded itself back together right after I made the cut! I had to drill a hole in the plywood to put the scroll saw blade in without cutting a slot in the plywood, weakening it. I did the same in the plastic bulkhead.

Randy

Yours is neater than mine, looking good! I did my main bulkhead yesterday as well! I had some regular 1/4" ply laying around, so I scrolled mine out in the same fashion. It fit well, so I epoxied it into the plastic bulkhead and glued it into the hull. Wasn't 10 minutes later that I realized that I forgot to widen the plastic bulkhead cutout!

So now I have to get in there and trim that out after the fact. Guess I need to get myself a little saw somewhere....or invest in a dremel. I'm already borrowing my buddy's scroll saw. I've never used one before and I just love having it around! I really don't have any hobby tools, just big stuff.

I have the keel finished, sans the epoxy/lead fill, and the keel block is installed. Today I'll work on the rudder, rudder block and aft bulkhead. I decided I am just going to put in the wood blocks in the upper corners of that bulkhead (as per instructions) instead of reinforcing the whole thing....don't think that one really needs it and I'll save some weight. I'll probably reinforce the rudder block pretty well though.

When all is installed in the hull and before I work on the electronics mounting, I think I'll lay down some fiberglass cloth to the bilge in some spots.

I guess I need to get out there and snap some photos too!

Sure Howard,

that would be great! It sounds good so far. I figured I would make the aft bulkhead reinforcement and cut-out and then work on the rudder block today. You know get all the pieces ready then epoxy them all in. Let's see some photos! I think I will just glue the deck on later as advertised then fair it in with putty. I'm lazy and I want the boat to be as light as possible. I'll do the fiberglass cloth reinforcement in the bilge area later also. Sounds great. We'll have these sailing in no time.

Randy

I just know I'm going to be completely fussy about the paint job and given I've never really sprayed anything that has to look good, not looking forward to it.

I really want the color of the upside down hull I posted earlier in this thread. Whether I get it remains to be seen. I can't find the color I want in Krylon Fusion, which I would like to use. I might just have to go to the automotive paint store and see if they match it and use one of these, since I don't have an airbrush setup:

http://www.preval.com/

I used to work in automotive paint, those Preval units are actually decent.

Stepping up, is an airbrush. I finally bought one a couple years ago. I should have bought it when I was teenager when I first seen one at a hobby shop. Hindsight is always 20/20

Wow,

neat set up. I hope it works for you as advertised. That would be a cool way to get custom colors. I will most definitely stay tuned as I would like a custom blue color also. Do they have clear coat as well?

Randy

I looked at airbrush setups on the internet and almost want one. I just can't justify it though. Already have a large compressor and a whole host of airtools, the boss would have a fit.

I'll give a practice with this preval unit, see how it turns out. In addition to your opinion, Guz, I've also read good things about them on the internet.

Randy, it's just an aerosol unit into which you put anything sprayable, I suppose you can do clear as well as anything else.

How is the Preval sprayer re-filled with propellant? Sounds like a promising system for spraying??? How good a finish does it give?

Originally Posted by 1967250s

How is the Preval sprayer re-filled with propellant? Sounds like a promising system for spraying??? How good a finish does it give?

I can only answer your first question. The aerosol can itself is disposable. As to the second question, I will find out and hopefully it's acceptable!

On the Preval units, the re-usable part is the glass jar. The top part is the propellant/spay nozzle that is disposable. You can fill the jar with darn near anything, and easily spray the jar empty with one cartridge. It's just like using a rattle can, with the normal associated issues.

But as I said, if you already have a compressor, and you do any hobby painting, step up to an airbrush. It's well worth the coin IMHO. It pays for itself in just not being as frustrating with a rattle can, lack of color options, and just darn nice finishes.

Personally, I like the odd-ball trigger style airbrushes (gravity fed). Mainly because I grew up using the full size automotive paint guns, and I just can't get my fingers to work properly with the classic style airbrush. But that's just me.


Trigger style airbrush

Guz,

that's a dual-action airbrush, right? Is a single action Badger brush OK for the job? Thanks,

Randy

Guz, thanks for that info. I thought it was maybe a rechargeable can. The videos on you tube showed a poor spray pattern, too.
What model airbrush is that in the photo? It looks like a nice size cup on it. I would prefer an airbrush as I've worked with them before, with much better results.
As an aside, does anyone know how much pressure is in a typical can of spray paint? Would it be possible to modify one for re-charging and refilling? Probably more trouble than it's worth, just curious.

Originally Posted by 1967250s

As an aside, does anyone know how much pressure is in a typical can of spray paint?

Check the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for the pressure of the aerosol can.
(It could be shown as the vapor pressure. If the VP shown is greater than 760 mm Hg, what you see is the can pressure. Not all companies provide it). This is an absolute pressure, so subtract atmosphere pressure to calculate inside can pressure.

They may use either butane or caron dioxide as propellants in most cases, and the propellants are filled as a liquid - not as a gas. Some may list only contents - not vapor pressure. As an example, Krylon Fusion, Gloss Black (the "plastic paint") contains all sorts of "fun" chemicals.......

Propane, Butane, Toluene, Acetone, and a few other items. Hint: extinguish your cigarettes before starting to paint - and away from furnaces, water heaters, etc.