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Old Sep 22, 2010, 03:30 PM
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USA, IL, Chicago
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Is it possible to glue deck inside hull?
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 05:27 PM
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New Bern, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuba View Post
Is it possible to glue deck inside hull?
You mean with the flange still attached? Hmm, I don't know, possibly towards the aft section, but the bulkheads are pre-cut to go against the inside of the hull.

Hmm, as Gomer would say, I'm going to have to "think a think" on that!
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 05:41 PM
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New Bern, NC
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Originally Posted by Kuba View Post
Is it possible to glue deck inside hull?

Well, I just went out and test fit your suggestion and if you either cut out a small tab where the flange meets a bulkhead or make a small slot in the top corner of the bulkhead to allow the deck to slide between hull and bulkhead, it seems it would fit very well. It goes up tight at the stem too.

Anybody see any reason why not to assemble it using this method? It would make a very clean appearance!
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 05:52 PM
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New Bern, NC
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Okay, after further study, I'm afraid to do it this way. The bulkheads sit so much higher than the sheer and I don't think the deck would sit flush. It would also spread the hull out a bit, which in turn would widen the bulkhead/hull joint.

Could modify the top of the bulkhead I suppose, but don't know if all this work would be better than just fairing in the outer part of the flange.

Too much monkey business, I think I'll leave well enough alone and just fair in the flange after the deck is on!
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 05:55 PM
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United States, CO, Hotchkiss
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Here is the rudder being built. I have glued the rudder sides and rudder post(reinforced with steel rod inside the stock brass tube) with CA glue and decided to use 30 minute epoxy to fill it with. I diluted the epoxy mix with about 20% denatured alcohol to a consistency thin enough to pour into a very small funnel. It has been a couple of hours now and it is just getting tacky. How long does this mixture take to cure?

Randy
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 05:57 PM
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United States, CO, Hotchkiss
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Originally Posted by NC Fly View Post
Okay, after further study, I'm afraid to do it this way. The bulkheads sit so much higher than the sheer and I don't think the deck would sit flush. It would also spread the hull out a bit, which in turn would widen the bulkhead/hull joint.

Could modify the top of the bulkhead I suppose, but don't know if all this work would be better than just fairing in the outer part of the flange.

Too much monkey business, I think I'll leave well enough alone and just fair in the flange after the deck is on!
Howard,

That's what I am going to do. It looks like the easiest path.

Randy
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 07:40 PM
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New Bern, NC
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Originally Posted by Pilatuspc12 View Post
Here is the rudder being built. I have glued the rudder sides and rudder post(reinforced with steel rod inside the stock brass tube) with CA glue and decided to use 30 minute epoxy to fill it with. I diluted the epoxy mix with about 20% denatured alcohol to a consistency thin enough to pour into a very small funnel. It has been a couple of hours now and it is just getting tacky. How long does this mixture take to cure?

Randy
Looks great, Randy. Gave up on the Gorilla, eh?

I'm surprised that alcohol slowed down it's cure so much. Just let it sit overnight, I'm sure it'll be a rock in the morning!

I see your keel block sitting there too. I was just playing with stuff and noticed that the keel spar is about 1/16" wider than the slot in both the keel block and hull. Is that how yours is too? I know it should be tight, but that's an awful force fit w/out sanding it down a good deal?

I was thinking about that steel reinforcing rod you put in there. Do you suppose filling it with epoxy would accomplish the same thing? I am trying to prevent using anything bare steel as I will have some saltwater issues.
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 08:47 PM
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My Gorilla glue was pretty old! It wouldn't even pour. I didn't know what to thin it with so I went and used some 30 minute epoxy I had laying around. I just felt it and it has a hard skin on it now, it's still soft in the center of that drop I spilled on the wax paper for testing purposes! Now if I can keep the cats out of it until it hardens fully, that would be just fine!
The keel spar was a little thick also. I had to sand it down a touch to get it to fit up into the keel trunk snugly. Since the keel will be a permanent fixture, I am going to seal it inside with some silicon once I install it.
The brass rudder post has a steel rod insert in it that fits very snugly. One open end is completely enclosed in the epoxy inside the rudder and the other end inside the boat is sealed with CA. So, I don't think there should be a corrosion issue, even in salt water. I am going to coat the rudder post with petroleum jelly for added protection/lubrication as well. I don't think filling the brass rudder post tube with epoxy only will make it strong enough. IMHO.

Randy
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 09:12 PM
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We have 2 cats, one outdoor stray and one that's allowed inside. If either one messes up my boat, I will feed it to my big, black lab!

I'll get a piece of rod for that tube, you're right that I can prevent water from getting to it. Good idea on the vaseline too. Couldn't hurt!

There's a whole bunch of files at the S1M yahoo group that I've been reading for ideas. You need to sign up to view them but I've reaped a bunch of info there. There is one in particular, which is an MS Word document entitled "Building Tips - bulkhead alignment.doc", that involves turning the deck upside down and fitting/marking the bulkheads there and transferring your marks to the hull. I think it's pretty useful. If anyone's not interested in signing up to that group, I'd be happy to email the file(s) to you directly. Bunch of stuff there! Here's the link:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SolingOneMeter/files/
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 09:30 PM
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Excellent,

I'll check it out.

Randy
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 10:39 PM
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Chicago , Illinois
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Hi guys
first off , in the picture in post #26 , the deck is sitting UPSIDE DOWN
in the hull - the hatch flange will be "up" when finished , so the hatch can
go over it.(like you said in a later post-they were prolly marking the bulk
head positions ,maybe.

1)don't put the deck inside of the hull - you will change the shape of the
boat along with other construction issues
2)you can build with the deck flange on , then fair the flange edge into
the hull ( bondo putty/glazing would prolly work) then sand/prime/paint
and clear coat
3)many guys put basswood strips around parameter of hull , glue deck to
that , then cut away the deck flange , fair that edge and finish it out .

ncfly- if your going to be in salt water, and depending on how far away
from home you will be, consider bringing a house plant spray bottle
with you - filled with tap water - you can spritz the salty water off...
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 10:57 PM
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It's upside down.....boy, do I feel just a little dumb!

Allan, right? I recognize your name from other places and much appreciate you clearing up those questions. That was my main concern, somehow it would affect basic dimensions of the boat.

Instead of adding that perimeter strip, I believe I'll have better results making that lip disappear with some putty. What's that old saying? A little putty and a little paint can make a carpenter what he ain't? Well, that's me!
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 12:58 AM
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aurora, il.
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to answer some questions, I build my soling's with out bulkheads, I put a 1/4" X 1/4" balsa strip down each side to glue the deck to, you need to leave the flange on till the deck is glued on, this is to make sure the hull shape is right, then you grind the lip off, a dremal with a 1/2" sanding drum works good, attachted is a picture of one of my hulls ready for the deck
John R.
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 11:25 AM
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United States, MA, Bristol
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorsail View Post
Hi guys
first off , in the picture in post #26 , the deck is sitting UPSIDE DOWN
in the hull - the hatch flange will be "up" when finished , so the hatch can
go over it.(like you said in a later post-they were prolly marking the bulk
head positions ,maybe.

1)don't put the deck inside of the hull - you will change the shape of the
boat along with other construction issues
2)you can build with the deck flange on , then fair the flange edge into
the hull ( bondo putty/glazing would prolly work) then sand/prime/paint
and clear coat
3)many guys put basswood strips around parameter of hull , glue deck to
that , then cut away the deck flange , fair that edge and finish it out .

ncfly- if your going to be in salt water, and depending on how far away
from home you will be, consider bringing a house plant spray bottle
with you - filled with tap water - you can spritz the salty water off...
I sail almost exclusively in salt water. I live 7/10ths of a mile from where we sail. I rinse my boats off thouroughly after every sail and I still get corrosion on non-stainless or brass fittings. Its maddening actually.

I don't think he would have a problem with the steel in his rudder if it was sealed though.
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 11:37 AM
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United States, CO, Hotchkiss
Joined Oct 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarjohn View Post
to answer some questions, I build my soling's with out bulkheads, I put a 1/4" X 1/4" balsa strip down each side to glue the deck to, you need to leave the flange on till the deck is glued on, this is to make sure the hull shape is right, then you grind the lip off, a dremal with a 1/2" sanding drum works good, attachted is a picture of one of my hulls ready for the deck
John R.
John,

that looks very nice. I think that is a wonderful idea. I was wondering if it might be possible to do that with the addition of the bulkheads. You would have to relieve the perimeter strip where the bulkhead would attach to the side of the hull. Just a thought.

Randy
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