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Old Sep 21, 2010, 06:09 PM
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New Bern, NC
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You get "informed" too, eh?
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 07:05 PM
Faith in Lift.
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United States, CO, Hotchkiss
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She said she would think it will be a beautiful color, don't you agree? Why yes, it will look very nice. The first one will be her color scheme then the next one, watch out! Hey, on the brass rudder tubing for reinforcement I stuck a steel rod inside with CA so it won't bend so easily. I was too cheap to get brass rod!

Randy
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 07:38 PM
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Rudder build suggestions from Roger W. - Palm Beach Gardens MYS.
-Flat sand the 2 halves of the rudder shell to the point where the rod just fits. Thinner rudder "RUNS" down wind faster.
-Flatten sides of rudder post a little after the slight bend at base. Internal rod to extend into the rudder body down to bend.
-Assemble and glue (use CA) rudder post into shell per Victor's instructions.
-Fill rudder with white Gorilla Glue. This expands and "foams". Available in small bottles @ the Home Depot.
-This foam/glue will have to be trimmed at top of rudder, then a little epoxy/** will confirm a sealed rudder.
. . . . . /** I use "MMD fast drying White Putty" found at any hobby shop. MMD hardens well and is easier to sand than epoxy.
-File a flat spot on rudder post for the tightening screw on the rudder horn.

-Use a hex or allen head machine screw (4-40?) as a set screw on your rudder horn and a long ball end hex ( allen) screwdriver to tighten it.
Hobby Shops should have these.
It is much easier to work with a socket-head machine screw and one of these hex ball drivers than with either a slotted or philips screw and driver.
I found this in one of the build sites, I hope this helps, Howard.

Randy
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 07:59 PM
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Hadn't read those anywhere. Great tips, Randy, thanks. I'll use them!

I like blue, but I already have a blue boat!
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 09:51 PM
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Howard,

My wife and I were looking at one of those Donzi Sweet 16's back in Houston when we were working for the airlines! It was red. Nice boat!

Randy
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Old Sep 21, 2010, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilatuspc12 View Post
Howard,

My wife and I were looking at one of those Donzi Sweet 16's back in Houston when we were working for the airlines! It was red. Nice boat!

Randy
Thanks, they're fun boats. Mine is a 22', although my first was a 1969 16' that my brother and I restored. He now owns it in CA, everything is original on it except the paint. Mine is only 28 yrs. old.

I guess I'm getting off topic!
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 03:11 AM
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aurora, il.
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First I'd like to thank Allan for posting the picture of my Soling, attached is a picture of my #3 Soling, when I first built Soling's , i built one for myself and 2 for my 2 grandsons, my Soling is the Team Virgin Island, #1 grandson is the Nitro Fish, the paint used on the sails is Design Master paint from Michel Craft store, this paint is used on silk flowers, it only comes in rattle cans, the paint on the boat is automotive with clear coat, I have built and painted RC boats since about 1964, a lot of nitro boats, didn't start sailing till 2001, getting to old for the fast boats!!!
John R.
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 09:38 AM
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John,

Thanks for the photos and information. How much weight does painting the sails add? Does it make your boat tender/top heavy? Can you see a change in the handling of the boat? They look great. The designs really stand out in the crowd.
Howard,
I glued the rudder post and halves together last night. Today I will fill it with Gorilla glue and see if it explodes! If I leave the top open, hopefully it won't push the sides apart. We'll see.

Randy
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 09:54 AM
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It'll be interesting to know just how much that Gorilla Glue expands! I'm sure it'll be fine.

Agree, those sails sure do POP out, just beautiful! Beautiful work, John!

I have a question. Maybe if John comes back, he can answer. I like the way the hull is painted on John's and on this boat, in that the freeboard paint comes up and over the gunwales. But I don't see any hull to deck joint (or lip) and don't see it on many other boats either? Where is the lip on the outside of the hull? Are people actually going to the trouble of fairing that completely out with filler or can I just not see it?

I see how this guy did it, but man oh man, he put some work into that! http://sarasotamyc.com/gallery/?shashin_album_key=16

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Old Sep 22, 2010, 11:24 AM
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Minnesota, USA
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Being that this is a pretty strict one-design class, you will find some of the more prolific racers will tend to find and take every advantage they can to decrease weight and improve reliability where it is allowed. In this case, I went back and looked at my original photos and could enlarge to see better. My assumption, like yours, is that the deck to hull joint was filled and faired smooth. Took some extra work, but results seem to indicate it was worth the trouble - looks wise.
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 12:06 PM
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By the looks of this deck to hull joint, I am thinking perhaps they have made a design change in the kit itself at some point?

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Old Sep 22, 2010, 12:06 PM
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Dick and Howard,

Yes, I think I like the faired in gunwale look also. The stock deck joint looks too unfinished, like a plastic toy boat for heaven's sakes! The smooth hull sides up to the deck line will allow it so you can run the paint trim line all the way up to the deck instead of below it. More work but it makes it look like it has more free board and much more polished! IMHO.

Randy
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 12:25 PM
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Definitely cleaner, I agree. If you look here:

http://sarasotamyc.com/gallery/?shashin_album_key=16

you can see where he fabricated a backing all around the inside perimeter of his hull. I believe his is probably the new type deck and he simply got rid of the flange and fastened his deck to his newly fabricated backing.
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 03:31 PM
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I never liked the flange on the Soling 1M's either.

I built one of Victor models boats about 10 years ago for my nephew. It was the US1M America3. It did not have a flange, but a wood sheer clamp and flat deck, like the black Soling in the photos.

Getting rid of the flange makes the Soling look 100% better. Does the latest version of the kit still have the flange?
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Old Sep 22, 2010, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seefest View Post
I never liked the flange on the Soling 1M's either.

I built one of Victor models boats about 10 years ago for my nephew. It was the US1M America3. It did not have a flange, but a wood sheer clamp and flat deck, like the black Soling in the photos.

Getting rid of the flange makes the Soling look 100% better. Does the latest version of the kit still have the flange?
I just got my kit today.

Although it's a NIB kit that I bought "used", I don't think it's very old and it has the flange. I believe it's the newer kits that do have the flange. I suppose it makes assembly easier and more accurate. I was just over inspecting my friend's S1M and his has the flange too, but I had to look inside to see that the flange was indeed there, you can't tell from the outside. He didn't build it but they did a nice job fairing it in. I might go with that method instead of adding a strip to the whole perimeter.
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