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Old Sep 18, 2010, 11:56 AM
"Auntie Samantha"
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USA, MO, Clever
Joined Dec 2009
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Build Log
P-47 Jug: The Wings



PRODUCT UP-DATE 9/23/2010: It was brought to my attention that the black wing joiner rod is in fact fiberglass, and NOT Carbon Fiber! To check for yourself, use an ohm meter. CF is conductive, fiberglass is not!

I am discovering many issues with the wings, so I'm sure as the build goes on I will be up-dating this page!

There are 2 specific ways to secure the wings to the fuse, but neither Nitro or FMS devotes very little info on either procedure, so I've posted them along with additional mods I have made.

FMS has installed 4 spar clamps in the wings to secure the black fiberglass rod in place. There are access holes in the under side of the wing to tighten the screws.
NOTE: All 4 of these clamps came off while I was doing the rod support mod. I reattached them using 2-ton epoxy, so I would suggest checking these out!

Along with the spar clamps, there is an embedded plastic plate in the under-side at the wing root. Upon further observation, there is a channel running down from inside the fuse, thru the wing root flange directly towards that plastic plate. I assume this is another way FMS incorporated a way to attach the wings to the fuse?

I made end plates to alleviate any stress on the foam where the black fiberglass rod passes thru the fuse much like I did on the P-51. In this instance I used CF, but 1/8" -3/8" ply would accomplish the same results. I also installed a 3 1/2" long K&S 7/16" x .014 brass tube in the channel to both insulate the foam, and provide a guide for the 25/64" drill bit I used to drill the holes in the CF end plates.

If the E-Tracts are going to need installation, foam will have to be removed to clearance both the E-Tract motor housing and the strut legs.

Flaps!...They are there, they are kewl, and they are easy to mod, so I've cut and removed the foam necessary to make them functional!

UP-DATE 9/30/2010:
I just received my order of .394 OD. x .288 ID. Carbon Fiber Rod from Goodwinds today. This is the legitimate stuff! I ordered 2 pieces, (1) 32.5" long #020977 for the P-47, and another 40" long #020978 which will be cut to fit both my P-51's. It is my opinion that this is a good investment for our big foamies as my whole order came to less then $30.00 including S/H.

This 0.394 OD. CF is the exact same OD. as the FMS fiberglass rod. It fits snug in the P-47 wing clamps when tightened down, and when I measured the flex in both there was no comparison! I could barely flex the 32.5" CF, but when I applied the same pressure to the FMS fiberglass it flexed like a fishing rod! (I don't have a tool to measure flex, so I did it the old fashion way, by brute strength!)

UP-DATE 10/13/2010: I drilled a 3/8" hole 3 1/2" deeper into each spar channel to gain a little more stability in the wings. I've replaced the 32" long fiberglass tube with the .394 CF tube cut an additional 7" to a length of 39".

UP-DATE 12/11/2010: I've been asked what procedure I used to drill the extended 3/8" X 3 1/2" holes in the spar channel, so I thought I would U/L some pics to illustrate how I did it.


NOTE:
Again, I can't express enough how important it is to check those wing spar clamps. I have had to re-glue all 4 of mine with epoxy, as the factory glue doesn't seem to be working!

UP-DATE 2/13/2011:
I finished up my wing spar mod with the addition of a .500 x .400 CF support brace for the .394 wing spar. My thought is to take some of the stress off the spar clamps.

I cut it to run from the wing root to the first spar clamp. I had to enlarge the channel so the .500 tube would be in alignment with the spar clamps so the spar would have perfect alignment through out the entire channel. I then installed one of the FMS fiberglass spars to use as a guide and keep the brace lined up. Once I was happy with everything, I applied a combination of GG in the brace location, and epoxy through out the rest of the channel. I didn't want the GG expanding around the clamps or further in so that's why I used epoxy in those locations. Once the glue was in place I installed the channel cover, taped in place, and set aside to dry.
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Last edited by Sandancer; Aug 24, 2012 at 10:26 AM.
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