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Old Feb 11, 2011, 01:26 PM
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Madison WI
Joined Jan 2009
587 Posts
Travelller,

2.5 mm CF rod works fine. I had to sand the end a little to fit into the frame. I used a little watery CA to get the cable glued to the rod.
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Old Feb 11, 2011, 02:56 PM
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Joined Aug 2009
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Yes, Bamboo Skewer works great. I checked Wal-Mart, Target, and Kroger near me, and none had the correct diameter. They had larger diameter (about 3 mm ?) that could be sanded down at the ends to make fit, but I am weight conscious, so wanted the correct lightweight size. I went to an Asian grocery store and found a bag of the correct 2.5 mm diameter of about 100 for about $1. Notice some are straighter than others, so hand picked the straightest and cut them to size. They weight almost the same as the the stock CF Tubes. I was going to post that the Bamboo Skewers were indestructible; however, I have managed to break a few, but I do believe they are stronger than the stock CF Tubes.

Also when trying to find a "mold" to use as a guide to re-shape bent Tail Rotor Blades, I noticed size C Batteries have about the same diameter/curvature as the Tail Rotor Blades. This means containers (pill bottles, film canisters ?)having approximately the same diameter as size C Batteries can be used as "stock" to fabricate Tail Rotors: no additional bending required, only cut shape out, drill hole for shaft, and attach. I haven't tried it yet, but it might be worth looking into.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 07:05 AM
Size Matters!
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San Francisco Bay Area
Joined Dec 2002
2,654 Posts
Shaking in San Francisco

Good info i812!

I have finally gotten my little V100D01 dialed in and progressed from my CB100.
It took setting the dual rates to 70% and -15 for expo. Got a full day of hovering last weekend

I noticed a somewhat slow wobble/shake.
Torn between flying as is for a while - as I only recently "cracked the code" and wanting to dial her in - I decided Damn the torpedoes and tore it apart.
One by one I replaced blades, blade shaft (rubbers and C-rings), main shaft, and finally replaced stock tail motor w/2.5 bb setup.

Nothing helped and when the tail motor was replaced it seemed to double the frequency (make the wobble/shake twice as fast).

I noticed a somewhat loose fit of the tail boom into the frame socket and built up some ca around the boom to tighten the fit which seemed to help some but still shaking in San Francisco.

Anyone got some ideas? This heli was "rode hard and put away wet" pror to obtaining my CB100 to learn on - so parts could be bent.
I started to take the blade holders and head apart and order replacements and of course upon reassemble broke off a silly little screw in a blade holder. So dead until my parts order arrive.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketRob View Post
...finally replaced stock tail motor w/2.5 bb setup.
...
2.5 bb = ?
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketRob View Post
...

I have finally gotten my little V100D01 dialed in and progressed from my CB100.
It took setting the dual rates to 70% and -15 for expo. Got a full day of hovering last weekend

I noticed a somewhat slow wobble/shake.
Torn between flying as is for a while - as I only recently "cracked the code" and wanting to dial her in - I decided Damn the torpedoes and tore it apart.
One by one I replaced blades, blade shaft (rubbers and C-rings), main shaft, and finally replaced stock tail motor w/2.5 bb setup.

Nothing helped and when the tail motor was replaced it seemed to double the frequency (make the wobble/shake twice as fast).

I noticed a somewhat loose fit of the tail boom into the frame socket and built up some ca around the boom to tighten the fit which seemed to help some but still shaking in San Francisco.

Anyone got some ideas? This heli was "rode hard and put away wet" pror to obtaining my CB100 to learn on - so parts could be bent.
I started to take the blade holders and head apart and order replacements and of course upon reassemble broke off a silly little screw in a blade holder. So dead until my parts order arrive.
I posted this a page or 2 back:

Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
I have a check list (work in progress) of things to look at when my heli's fly worse after a crash:

* Verify Main Shaft not bent (should be zero wobble when viewed from top at all RPM's)
* Verify Main Rotor Blades not bent differently (should be identical shape, especially the closer to the root)
* Verify Blade Grips not bent differently
(difficult to verify now since they aren't flat anymore, need to verify the Blade Gaps mirror each other)
* Verify no Blade Tracking Error (verifies above 3 problems OK, and top 2 links adjusted properly)
* Verify Tail Fin is // to Main Shaft (i.e. Tail Motor Shaft is perpendicular to Main Shaft)
(use 90* straight edge to verify Tail Fin is perpendicular to flat horizontal resting/landing surface)
* Verify Tail Rotor Blades are not bent differently
(use non-magnetic measuring device to verify same distance from Vertical Fin all along Tail Rotor Blade's leading edge: I assume the reinforced center (where the Tail Motor's shaft goes through) is the correct distance and bend as required to make outer part of blade match inner dimension)

The importance of having these things "spot" on depends on how smooth a flight the flier wants. A person has to consider the "costs vs. rewards" benefits. For me, I tend to crash less and have a more enjoyable flight the smoother the heli flies, so I "invest" the time. Also, I've noticed the better I become at knowing and doing these "regular" maintenances, the better I've become at troubleshooting and setting up all heli's in general. After a while, knowing how the heli sounds flying with bent parts, and knowing how the heli sounds flying with "tuned" parts, I don't need to "blindly" inspect any more and can "troubleshoot" by the "seat of the pants" while the heli is in the air by listening to it, and/or watching how "un-smooth" it flies.

In my opinion, all these verifications and their repairs (re-bend back to shape) are free, and the improvement in flight performance saves from breaking parts that cost money and time to fix. Your value may vary.

I haven't looked into Bob's theory about the possible importance of having the x3 Gyro's "leveled" during initialization.
From reading your post, it looks like you verified the stuff in boldface, but may not have verified the stuff in red.

I also posted:

Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
I've tried a few "off" CoG experiments, and can't say that I've really noticed much (if any) difference in flight performance. Maybe if there were no other problems (I almost always have TBE), then maybe the slight difference in off center CoG might show up better?
Since writing that post, I did some more CoG experiments with the CB100, and am now convinced where the CoG is, is noticeable in flight performance. The further the CoG is off the Main Shaft, the more the heli "bobbles" (oscillates in the EL and/or AIL directions) after a change in speed. I'm not sure what the best way to balance (freely hang) the V100D01 is, but once the V100D01 is hung freely, you can verify the CoG is on the Main Shaft as follows:
  1. When viewed from the side, the Tail Boom is horizontal (Tail Boom is parallel with Earth, Main Shaft is perpendicular with Earth)
  2. When viewed from the front or rear, the Main Shaft is perpendicular to the Earth
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 08:12 AM
Size Matters!
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San Francisco Bay Area
Joined Dec 2002
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2.5 gram ball bearing tail motor, fin and mount.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 09:03 AM
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New Jersey
Joined Sep 2009
1,635 Posts
A little of wobbling is normal when you transition from forward flight to hover, or vice versa, and with time it is possible to learn how to compensate to some extent. I would suggest to first go through i812's checklist, then after you have verified that the hardware is fine, if the problem persists, you can increase a bit (no more than 15-30 degrees at a time) the gain of the AIL and/or ELEV on the gyro, depending on which direction the wobbling goes. Personally, I adjust the gyro only if I am sure that the problem persists after 3-4 flights, since a little bit of variability from time to time may actually be due to my thumbs...
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 09:25 AM
Size Matters!
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San Francisco Bay Area
Joined Dec 2002
2,654 Posts
i812 - thanks. I should have remembered that I bookmarked your blog
I have not been able to check the blade grips till my replacement parts arrive as there is no way I am even going to try to remove the broken screw shaft.

DMala, good suggestion on the gyro, I will have to check my pot settings but seem to remember spinning them all to full clockwise to dumb it up some for me.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 09:37 AM
Size Matters!
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San Francisco Bay Area
Joined Dec 2002
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1812, I also tried a new tail rotor

DMala, my aileron, elevator and ail el -ex pots are all full counter clockwise.
This is not a FF/Hover transition wobble but more of a steady state
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketRob View Post
i812 - thanks. I should have remembered that I bookmarked your blog
I have not been able to check the blade grips till my replacement parts arrive as there is no way I am even going to try to remove the broken screw shaft.

DMala, good suggestion on the gyro, I will have to check my pot settings but seem to remember spinning them all to full clockwise to dumb it up some for me.
BTW, that blog at this point in time is an outline, has errors, and is almost worthless. I need to redo to outline, and start filling in the procedures.

What is wrong with the Blade Grip screw?

Did you check Blade Tracking?
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 11:14 AM
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New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketRob View Post
DMala, my aileron, elevator and ail el -ex pots are all full counter clockwise. (...)
That's a lot of gyro effect, I never tried it so I have no direct experience but reading what it does I wonder if you are actually fighting against overstabilization.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 04:09 PM
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Arivaca,Arizona
Joined May 2008
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Hi all,
From my experience...
A lot of wobble and shake is the gyros over-correcting. Try turning the gains down. My 4#6S shakes bad [side to side] if the AILE gain is too high. I get something of a tail bobbing action if it's the ELE. And the rudder response gets very slow if that one is too much and drifts if it's too low. My V100 is in a box ,as I moving for the next month so take this info for what it's worth.

regards,
Bill
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 04:43 PM
Registered User
Madison WI
Joined Jan 2009
587 Posts
swash initial level

Just today, mine started flying differently. It seems to be less stable and a little harder to control. There have been no hard crashes for a while.

In taking a closer look, I noticed that the swash is tilted to the right and back upon connecting with the transmitter (with center trim on both right stick trims.)

I have yet to do I812's checklist, but was wondering about the swash position. Could it have slipped down on the shaft, causing the tilt? I don't know if it's supposed to have a snug fit on the shaft.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 06:22 PM
GEV * MEL * MIA * VIE
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curr. Vienna AT
Joined Dec 2010
169 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Vaca View Post
...A lot of wobble and shake is the gyros over-correcting.
Bill, same explanation is found in Walkera's own User Guide (not the best English, but that's how I "interpreted" it )
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 06:53 PM
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Arivaca,Arizona
Joined May 2008
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Hi travelller,

I have to admit to not reading the manual

regards,
Bill
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