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Old Mar 20, 2011, 02:30 AM
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nemoskull's Avatar
United States, AZ, Yuma
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i love oranges!!!

i decied to put in the sub my 2.4 ghz orange RX. and yes, i know, 2.4 will not propagate in water.
but i do know this: you are all wrong.
in range check mode, my body stops the signal to the RX. after like 1 foot. in full power mode, it don't. so moral of the story is, i am right

acctually, the real question is, how far down?
i dont know. i am 70% water, i am about 9 inches thick at my middle, so i am guessing that i can get about 5 or 6 inches under water in clean water.

second point, full wave antenna. i measured the antenna, its not full wave. more like 1/4. this is not good. its bad. real bad.
so i made a full wave antenna out of gutiar strings. 125mm. got 52 paces one, then -1/16 was 47 and 28 (yeah, same antenna, different soldering, the 28 was actually a better joint).

at any rate, the antenna sticks up about 3 or 4 inches off the deck. i keep telling my self its a periscope.
the other reason is the cheapness of the orange rx. i have heard it causes crashes. i am hoping this is cuz the controls return to neutral when loss of signal. if it does, then i am good. if not, my sub will run till it hits the bottom. he he.

installed the rx, 2 servo, 3A hk brushed ESC, battery, charge plug (i am going to seal the hull) bind cables, antenna, and i soldered wires from the orange LED and ran them out the top of the hull. i am going to put more orange LED in the bridge. (i tend to loose things at nite.)

oh yeah, using twin picco Z tail rotor cut down and mounted on 3.3 ohm 6mm motors. we will see how good this goes.

i still need a name........
and a Low Voltage LED flasher, time to get out the AVRs again.
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Old Mar 20, 2011, 08:30 PM
We can rebuild it!
djdavies83's Avatar
United Kingdom, Wales, Swffryd
Joined Apr 2010
3,685 Posts
Connections for binding and charging ideas.

Binding without opening it up
You mentioned about sealing the hull and having external connectors for charging and binding... I will be fitting out alot of small cars with the ORX, when I get my 2nd Tx so I can drive with friends when friends come round I don't want to have to take a car apart to bind it to the 2nd Tx, So I will be fitting a reed switch to the bind connection and place it under the car so that when I want to bind I can just hold a magnet over the switch, kinda like holding down a button when pairing Bluetooth devices to a phone. 

I think this idea could work very well on your sub, just have the magnet attached to the inside of your hull,  That way if you wanted to bind you could just hold a magnet on that part of the hull to put the O'Rx in bind mode. 

charge port and on/off switch
Will you be have the LiPo connected to the charge at all times and then a on/off switch to connect the radio etc to the LiPo?

I've had a couple of ideas that may be of interest if you have not already thought of them.
1. Replace the on/off switch with a reed switch, a little steel or a couple of screws in/on the hull just so a neodymium magnet could hold itself inplace over the on/off reed switch. 

2. All in one on/off switch and charge port sealing plug! Use a 2S micro JST-XH socket on the sub and connect it as follows

Pins on the sub
1-LiPo positive 
2-LiPo negative
3-To Rx ESC system

Pins on charging cable
1-LiPo positive
2-LiPo negative
3-not connected

Pins on on/off plug seal
1-not connected
2-connected to pin 3
3-connected to pin 2

No wires on the plug just a little joint between pins 2 & 3, seal the exposed end and use plastics safe grease around the plug. when you plug it in it will connect the LiPo to the system and keep the charge port dry when under water. 

3. As 2. But with a 3S connector and "bind" on pin 4. 

Pins on the sub
1-LiPo positive 
2-LiPo negative
3-To Rx ESC system
4-To Rx bind connection

Pins on charging cable
1-LiPo positive
2-LiPo negative
3-not connected
4-not connected

Pins on on/off plug seal
1-not connected
2-connected to pin 3
3-connected to pin 2
4-not connected


Pins on on/off and bind plug
1-not connected
2-connected to pin 3 & 4
3-connected to pin 2 & 4
4-connected to pin 2 & 3


On/off and bind plug would connect LiPo the system and negative to Rx bind pin placing it in bind mode, only real down side I can see if maybe losing the plugs. 

Hope these ideas are of use, I have never built a sub, if you have thought of something like these I hope I've not offended. 

Sub is really looking good, How is the syringe ballast tank looking now? :-D 

If you just want standard on/off flashing there are some cheap little low voltage flashers used for micro heli navigation lights mentioned in this thread that you may like. 
 
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...r#post17388432

So extending the Rx wire on the Orange Rx will boost the range?

Sorry if my typing and description is a little off, I'm quite tired. Good night and all the best!
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Old Mar 20, 2011, 09:37 PM
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wow!, that was alo in one post! (reminds me of me ).
i dont know if it helped the range, my test were inconclusive, and i have no baseline, i never tested the range with the stock antenna.
as for on and off, i thought of a switch, but then would have problems with sealing the switch and trying to keep it un corroded. i just opted to have the battery lead and the pulg for the ESC on the outside of the hull. i will get more drag, but the complicty is great.
i love the reed sw idea, that would rock!

got the motors hooked up and mounted.

next up is the rudder. and i decide not to use the syringe, in the end diving planes were easier.
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 02:46 AM
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finished the hull, just waiting for it to dry. tomorrow i will seal it, and glue the hull halfs together with rubber cement, laquer seal again, then its time for sea trials!
will post a vid when it uploads. HQ cameras are great, but take forever to up load....
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 05:32 AM
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Joined Apr 2010
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Nice, you thinking of reed switch for bind or power on? Talking about drag, if your wire will be close behind the bridge it should give less drag tang bein out on it's own as the bridge will have "parted" the water so the connector will be in it's slipstream for want of better explanation.
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 02:27 PM
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reed for bind, i dont know abour power on, it depends on the watt rating of the switch.
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 03:16 PM
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United Kingdom, Wales, Swffryd
Joined Apr 2010
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If a reed switch is no strong enough maybe a small 5V Omron relay, I think they will run off 3.7V use the reed to power on the relay which will zippy power to the ORX.

If you have time to spare I think the 3S on/off and bind plug idea should tick all boxes.
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 03:18 PM
We can rebuild it!
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Oh, or even two or three reeds next to each other so the load on each one is not as high!
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 06:59 PM
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finished! (mostly) still got to fix the funky paint job. paper over balsa and sprayed the hijo de su madre with enough laquer to kill my lungs and still seal the kitchen counter.

model is 1.5 inches wide. 11 inches long. the weight of water is 16.4 g per CuIn.
rought calculations put at 70% of 180g, so i am staying with 99g total weight right now. will trim in the tub soon (i need a shower anyways....)
will post pics.....
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 07:30 PM
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video!

worlds smalles scratch built submarine! (1 min 50 sec)


she sits too hi in the water, just about midline on the hull, need more weight i guess.

she also has a list to port. gotta remember that. the hull leaks from the top ( not major) and also leak from the hull joints. that will be a problem, so will keep adding rubber cement untill it looks good. then i will seal the hull joint with hot glue. then spray again with laquer. hope fully i can maiden today.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 08:23 PM
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okay, i have just confirmed that when the Orange Rx losses signal, it stops all commands, the servos stay where they are, and more importantly, the motors stop. so this thing will NOT run all the way to the bottom if i loose signal. i am going to try this in a small pond first, then move on to a bigger one.
MMUUUAHAHAHAHA AHAHAHAHHAHAHA AHA AAHA A AHAAA AHAHAHAHA!

sorry, i guess that escaped the censors.
nemo
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 09:17 PM
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my sub sinks. not verry fast, but basicly, i just spent the last 9 months working on a sub that is just a leaky surface ship, cuz it dont go down on command. and to boot, i crashed my lazy bee. first flight.
i think its time for a different hobby.

nemo
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemoskull View Post
my sub sinks. not verry fast, but basicly, i just spent the last 9 months working on a sub that is just a leaky surface ship, cuz it dont go down on command. and to boot, i crashed my lazy bee. first flight.
i think its time for a different hobby.

nemo
R.E.M. - Everybody Hurts (Video) (5 min 38 sec)



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Old Feb 21, 2012, 02:29 AM
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Madison, MS
Joined Oct 2004
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Hope you haven't gotten discouraged. They had trouble with the first real subs, too.
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