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Old Sep 21, 2010, 03:44 PM
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got 2 new items i needed today. my magnet wire (36 gauge) and some LF10 (a flattener, going to use it for the final sealant, so it is not glossy).
yay!
got about half of the code written in ASM (assembler) need the harder half still (PWM)
nemo
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 01:59 PM
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this will have to be put on hold for a while.....still trying to get SMD parts.
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Old Sep 30, 2010, 08:41 PM
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okay, finished the mid hull WTC and has more bouyancy than expected, so i decided to cram standard size components in there, ballast the the fore, and radio and batt in mid, and dive board and motor board in the back. i am using a '2b' rx, so 5ch, in this cans, dive, wont work with forward.
my motor driver board is just a computer hooked up to an h bridge, and takes 2 inputs, forward and backward. this board controls the throttle, (Square wave, due to board design)
the second board takes just one input, from ch 5, so when you press the 5th button, the second computer takes this signal and outputs to its own h-bridge and pulls its Actuator (Made, not installed, but tested) on the stern diving planes and sends a signal to the throttle boards computer (dedicated input) and runs the throttle.
so if you were crusing in 2nd gear forward, and you wanted to dive, you let off the throttle, hit the dive button, and 2nd gear reengages and the stern diving planes tilt down and the boat goes under
in theroy.
we will see when its finsihed.
p.s. the mid section is covered in masking tape. glued and sealed with laquer, thin for right now, but when put to sea, it will bassicaly be paper reinforced laquer.
also, 6mm gear box motors will be open to sea.
nemo
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Old Sep 30, 2010, 09:49 PM
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Salt water?
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Old Sep 30, 2010, 10:19 PM
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Cool can't wait for a video
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Old Oct 01, 2010, 12:07 PM
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As Amp noted, salt water will kill anything exposed, but it does wonders for your skin.
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Old Nov 10, 2010, 08:05 PM
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yeah, noted. i will be running in a pond with only turtles living in it, so pretty dark. there is another pond that has much better water. i was planning to use a 1/16 wave dipole, but i may not have space....we will see.
got a new hobbyking 2.2 gram servo, and got it running off of a atmel avr tiny25 MCU, i will be using these for the rudder and planes. i will be hooking these up to a toy tx/rx pair on 27 mhz.
posting to youtube right now... i will post a link in a new post.
thank,
nemo
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Old Nov 10, 2010, 09:10 PM
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Hey Nemo glad to see your still at it. You could buy a large thick mill clear plastic sheet approx the area of space you can set up for testing. With a simple PVC pipe frame you can manage to hold up the plastic to fill up with clear clean water / which can be adjusted in height and dia to suite the location to run. Even a small 5x3 for testing could do.
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Old Nov 10, 2010, 10:46 PM
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yeah, i might do that, after all this work, i dont want to lose it. but i do keep hard copys in a book on my shelf.....
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Old Feb 28, 2011, 01:41 AM
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okay, got this project up and running again.
will be using the guts form the nautilus radio gear with a new smaller 27mhz rx2b based board. have the servos i need, and am posting a tutorial on the smd h bridge i will be using for ballast. ( i hope, if all goes well). got the forward hull enclosed but left room for additonal weight in the fore. taking lessons learned from nautilus and keeping the boyuancy down. hope to be using a syringe for a tank.
cuz the way the cheap rv2b rx chip works, the motors are driven by a signal every 20ms, in the past this has given me problems, but now i am using this. if the ballast doesnt recieve a signal, the h bridge will run back to the empty and the boat will surface.
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Old Feb 28, 2011, 03:05 AM
We can rebuild it!
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United Kingdom, Wales, Swffryd
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I was thinking of using a syringe when I eventually make a sub, how are you attaching it to a servo?
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Old Feb 28, 2011, 04:09 PM
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djdave: not sure yet, its a small sub, like 10 inches, so doesn't displace a lot. i am thinking of just wiring the servo arm to the syring plunger. probly just a quilting needle in the plunger and the needle top going thru the servo arm hole.
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Old Mar 03, 2011, 08:35 AM
We can rebuild it!
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I've used these things to give my baby medicine and ive found them quite hard to move.
Maybe it could be lubed with veg oil or something, one idea is if you had a toothed bar attached to the plunger, and a gear on the servo shaft, the servo would have be constant rotation hacked (basically turns it into a motor, gearbox and ESC) which is not a big job. Doin it this this way would mean you would not have to hold the servo in position as when you return to stuck to centre it sits where you left it.

Another would be to mount the servo on the flat of the plunger and attach the end of the servo horn to the frame work with a pivot in the end hole.
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Old Mar 04, 2011, 04:08 AM
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i find the reason its hard to move is cuz the hole. once its got some lube (oil) and a greater opening, its easier to move.
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Old Mar 04, 2011, 09:22 AM
We can rebuild it!
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Ah, I hadnt thought of opening up the hole, see you've had some good though on this one.
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